general problems of the 2010 Ford Escape - part 1

The complaint is regarding a 2010 Ford Escape, original owner and maintained mostly at dealer shop. Vehicle only has 79k miles on it, and has been garage stored. It has rust in the rear wheel wells and a crack in the rear right subframe due to rust.

The power system assist fault light came on and steering is very difficult.

Had the car repaired because it stalls at stop signs or waiting for the traffic lights to change has a new turn up and carburetor and had a second opinion and they couldn’t find why but the car still stalled.

During routine maintenance my mechanic told me the sub frame of my 2010 Fordescape had a serious problem. It appears there is a design flaw which allows condensation from the air conditioner to be traped and ultimately rust through compromising the frame. They said they didn't recommend driving the car, because if the frame failed the right wheel could detatch causing a catastrophic event. This rust only exists on the passenger side.

Just 120000 km. Because of the water drops from the ac , that part of front frame badly rusted and perforated. Because of the improper design, my 120000 km car now is not safe to drive.

The contact owns a 2010 Ford Escape. The contact stated that while the vehicle was parked and unoccupied in the garage, fumes entered the garage and into the house. The contact had to park the vehicle outside. There were no warning lights illuminated. The contact washed the vehicle at the carwash, but the odor of fumes persisted. The contact scheduled an appointment with the local dealer, but the vehicle was not yet diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was contacted, and they referred the contact to the NHTSA hotline. The failure mileage was 90,000.

On 8/17/2023 my daughter was on the highway and said she was having a problem after hitting a pothole. I told her to return home. Subframe broke after hitting a second minor pothole on a side road close to my home. Passenger side tire (fell off?) was turned 90 degrees under the wheel well while the driver side tire was still pointing straight forward. About a 60 foot skid mark dragging the passenger tire at a 90 degree angle until she could pull the vehicle over. If this happened on the highway, I fear the worst would have happened to my daughter. Also, I see that the rear frame is rotted on both sides near the rear shocks.

The evaporative emissions canister purge control valve is making my car jerk when accelerating and does not make my car run correctly. This causes an “rubber” smoke smell and could end up causing more issues down the line. The muffler and exhaust, a/c condenser does not function properly.

Unknown passenger side rear quarter panel rusting above tire well. No other rust on vehicle. In review of online complaints this is common for Ford Escape’s 2008-2012.

Rear frame over rear tires, rusting through frame, I was told by collision shop that the 2008 through 2012 has this problem and Ford motor company has done nothing to fix this problem. It is a safety problem and everyone knows about it and nothing has been done. If this area breaks the driver can lose control and kill someone, I don't think this problem should be ignored any longer. I've kept my Escape in mint condition and just found out about this problem. I hope you can look into this and resolve the problem before someone dies because of it. Thank you from: coy tidwell.

Power steering assist fault is on the dashboard and I can barely turn the wheel. This happened while driving 65mph on the highway over wolf creek pass and with the snow I could have driven off the cliff or knocked another vehicle off. Unknown. Unknown. Not yet. No warnings it just jolted and then barely turns. Adaptive cruise control I will be driving using cruise control or without and it will start up and just keep speeding up until I stop it. The car randomly speeding up on its own is dangerous if it does this at all. Unknown. Unknown. Not yet. No warnings and it has happened a good six times so fat. The jerry app says I have 5 recalls on this vehicle I have already fixed the only one I knew about which is the gas line but I am wondering about the other 4? I am clearly having an issue that seems directly related to the recalls but your site says that I don't have any. I will double check the carfax but I am pretty sure that im the only one to address this. Please advise.

The contact owns a 2010 Ford Escape. The contact stated while driving approximately 15 - 20 mph, the power steering assist failed, and the steering wheel was difficult to turn. The vehicle was not diagnosed nor repaired by an independent mechanic or dealer. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 250,000.

The contact owns a 2010 Ford Escape. The contact stated that while driving at an undisclosed speed, the steering wheel locked up. The power steering assist fault message was displayed. The contact called the local dealer, but vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The contact stated the failure was like NHTSA campaign number: 14v284000 (steering). The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The failure mileage was unknown.

My power steering went out after I got my car. My starter doesn’t work I have to use a button on my keys to always start my car the key will not start my car. It’s very hard to turn my car and it went out while I was making a turn and myself siblings and boyfriend almost got hit by an oncoming car. The car has not been inspected, I can have my car looked at most likely upon request unless I have work but I can come in the next available day. There were no messages or warnings to my car or any symptoms before they went out.

First I notice the car just drop gears and nearly stop on the off ramp of the highway. Second time I tried to reverse and it would not move and I had to call a tow truck to take it to the garage. Ford told me it needed a new transmission. Ford dealership wanted to charge me over $ 5000 for the job. I winded up going to a lee myles that charge cost to $ 4000 for the repairs it had done. Now few months later and the vehicle is shaking upon start up and idiling. Whenever I drive the car it feels like its jerks slightly when going at higher speeds. Changed out the air filter, rebuilt transmission and still having problem after problems with this 2010 Ford Escape.

Driving vehicle down highway at approximately 70mph, hit bump from road construction. Surface was slightly elevated, steering wheel jerked and then was tilted approximately 30 degrees off center to the left. Lifted vehicle and inspected, found k-frame on passenger side was rotting through and had partially detached. Causing alignment to change. Not much material is holding it on still.

Driving on main local road appx 30 mph when the check engine light popped on, then the car suddenly died, I was able to swerve to park, shut restart car, car sputtered made it ten feet and died again. Went to mechanic, he checked alternator, battery, and ran the code test could find nothing wrong, driving again appx 1 week later same thing happens again. Mechanic can find nothing wrong. My car does not even have 60,000 miles on it. I am the only owner, and have maintained my car as recommended. If me and my family should get injured or die in this car our blood is on Ford.

Alarm goes off for no reason when parked. Replaced batteries in key fobs with no change. Had issue investigated last year by Ford with no satisfaction. Was ok during winter but now it is hot outside. Heat related?.

Only 85000 miles on vehicle - both rear wheel wells rusted through.

Igniton switch fails to work half the time turn key will not start without excessive tries.

Window regulator on 3 of 4 windows had to be replaced. Cable breaks (loud, startling bang), window "drops" and cannot be raised. One incident occurred while driving in 2017, one occurred while car was stationary and occupied in 2018, and one occurred while car was parked and vacant (6/27/19).

I was on the freeway when the battery light camo ,then abs light came on and the steering wheel locked I couldn't move to either side after a few seconds it when I'm off and I have control of the vehicle again,it happened twice after the battery light came ,the steering wheel locked,.

The switch fails to start the Escape. We have been having to press on the key and wiggle it. Now the car fails to start. This is not necessarily a safety issue, bue could leave us stranded, whether out on the road, or somewhere we are not known. This happens when the ignition is cut off, and then trying to get it started. Have any other Escape owners had this problem. I have been told that it could be repaired but that the cost of the parts would be over $400. 00.

2010 Ford Escape instrument cluster panel malfunctions and speed dial falls to zero while driving. At times it doesn't work at all.

When driving for as little as ten minutes and other times longer, my truck will lose power while driving and I will start to feel the truck slow up. Then when trying to accelerate I can only get up to 20 mph. Also if I take my foot off the gas, without putting my foot on the brake, it'll come to a halt. It does go over 2,500 rpm on a good day. I cant take off fast even if I wanted to. The only code that has come up when dealing with my issue is the catalyic converter. I have replaced my O2 sensors and got a new converter on but still having the same problem. I even replaced the throttle to see if that would help and it has not. No one has been able to help me figure out the issue. I have taken it to reputable shops and mechanic and spent a ton of money trying to resolve my issues. I am fearful for my safety and my son's safety not knowing when it will lose power. I cant even hold a job at the time being because of this issue with my truck.

When the vehicle comes to a stop whether it be a stop sign or red light, the rpm's over rev higher at the time of leaving from a stop when gas is given to vehicle. After the vehicle gets back up to speed the rpm's drop back to a normal range.

My engine locked oil leaking battery dies air bag light comes on SUV shakes rear windshield whippers drain battery constant jumps and road side assistance.

A vibration sporadically occurs in the steering wheel when idling mostly but not only. At first I thought it was related to the a/c unit but it happens whether on or off. Temperatures are not affected on gages. I believe this was why the vehicle only had 55,000 miles on it when I bought it in 2018. The vibration occurs when moving or stationary when it happens its seems completely random. It has been happening noticeably for about a year now. At least noticeably. Probably unrelated but the vehicle has always had something a little off about the engine when I bought it. It seemed a little louder than it should be and not as smooth I thought it should have been. So it might been an issue the whole time but becoming more noticeable. When it happens it usually happens for 30 seconds to a minute but has lasted longer. Once it wouldn't go away at all until I turned the car off and restarted it. I took it into a Ford dealership about 4 months ago and explained the issue not as well as I am now since more time has passed and thought maybe it was a trottle body valve issue I read about and they said no there is no issue with that. Reading forums it sounds like it might be related to the power steering control. It is causing the steering wheel to vibrate so maybe it is a power steering issue.

I was backing out of a parking space when a beep sounded and message "steering assist light came up. I went to branford (connecticut) Ford and they said the steering column needed replacing. Without this it could jam and cause and accident. Car also had strained starting. They said battery was weak. Replaced battery. Next day same problem starting. Obviously not the new battery. .

I purchased the vehicle just under 2 years ago ongoing issues the car will stall out/die while driving ac/heat causes issues I have had a ton of work done and the issues are reoccurring while diving on city street it has stalled out as well as in park. The cause of the issue is unknown.

My car suddenly loses power while driving. Check engine light came on, with codes p2112, p0443, and c1963. The issue(s) seem to happen while I am driving at 55mpg or higher. This has occurred both on the interstate as well as back roads where the speed limit is 55. The most recent time this happened was a period starting on 06/04/2018 through 06/05/2018. This happened 5 times during this period, but has also happened several times since December 2017 as well.

There is excessive corrosion and rot on my subframe that has caused a large hole as well as my control arm to become loose. This is caused by excessive rust from road salt and other dirt. This has made my car unable to pass inspection.

I have a 2010 Ford Escape. The car jerks when accelerating. Feels like you're getting hit from the back. Ford authorized dealership been trying to get it fixed for about two years now claiming that the faulty parts are replaced/fixed. Now my extended warranty has expired and I still have the same problem. This is a safety issue if the vehicle jerks and have to look around.

Car was parked in a parking lot. Not started. My mom put shopping parcels in the trunk. When closing the rear hatch door the window glass exploded out. There were no items touching the glass from in the trunk. The temperature outside was about 10 degrees fahrenheit.

Rear window shattered as car was parked outside, ambient temperature of 12 degrees f. No evidence of vandalism was present.