13 problems related to equipment have been reported for the 2000 Ford F-150. The most recently reported issues are listed below. Please also check out the statistics and reliability analysis of the 2000 Ford F-150 based on all problems reported for the 2000 F-150.
First I purchased the Ford F-150 2000 year model from a car dealership on oct 28, 2019. Immediately there was problems keeping it running. They put a new battery in it 2 days later then while reaching 50 mph my tons would drop and the truck would not accelerate I had just put 51 dollars in the tank, then I pushed the gas to the floor my rooms would go all the way to 3 then I would have to let off the gas and it seemed to do a hard switch in gear. As this continued the entire truck shook till I figured ok just pump the gas and let off before the shaking got to bad. Now the shaking as gotten worse and the truck seems to not want to accelerate at all or does a hard stall. It is supposed to have a new low range motor with only 100,000 miles on it at least the dealer told me that, I also verbally made an agreement with the dealer that if anything was to go wrong he would fix it, he agreed. Now that I have seen my truck has 18 recalls and one that has not been fixed, a duplicate title and had 2 liens I honestly want my money back. Im a single mother going to college and I'm all my daughter gots. I told the dealer I needed a reliable vehicle. The vehicle was in motion all times and it does it on the hwy and city streets.
The half rear doors accessing the rear bench seat are defective. The doors have a defect in the locking/opening handle. The Ford dealer locally wants to charge me in excess of $1119. 00 to correct the problem. I have researched this matter via the internet & have found this is a pretty common complaint.
In driveway about an hour after work and heard an explosion. Went outside to see what was happening and the truck was on fire. Had bought the truck about 8 years ago. Come across recall on cruise control switch but never heard of it until after the fire. Had about $500 brake job a month before. Not sure what caused the fire.
I was driving home from work on the highway when I started to smell a slight burning smell. I was following a tractor trailer truck and I assumed it was just the smell of that trucks brakes. A few miles up the highway my truck shut off while driving. When I pulled over thats when I saw anoke coming from under the hood. I grabbed my keys and popped the hood. Thats when I saw a good sized flame on the drivers side of the engine compartment. I went a safe distance from the truck and called 911. My truck quickly went up in flames. I did some research and found alot of trucks the same year as mine were catching fire due to a recall for the speed control sensor. I then looked into that and found there waa no pending recall for that issue for my truck and could not find if it had been done on my truck previously.
While the truck was stationary, after having been driven about 20 minutes prior we could smell a burning plastic smell. A few short minutes later the engine was engulfed in flames. The fire started in the front drivers side and slowly make its way to the bed. The hood was completely disintegrated by the time the fire department had put it out. We believe this was due to the recall campaign 11s21. We did own the vehicle out right, and did not carry insurance, but my other vehicle had some damage and a number of my husbands tools were destroyed.
I repaired a tire that had a nail within an inch or less distance to the sidewall. I let my service/shop manager know about the situation and he told me to do the repair anyway, which I did. The tire repair failed and the tire ended up going flat. All I know is they had me break it down for inspection but the patch did seem to be on the surface properly. There are no posters on how to do the tire repair properly nor are there any methods of double checking the repair after the tire was complete. I do what us asked of me and follow the procedures of the shop but I feel they were insufficient in providing proper procedure in tire repair and verification processes.
The radiator/core support was rusted out and could have resulted in a tragic accident if not replaced. The truck only has 73500 miles and has spent most of the time enclosed in the garage. The truck is in great shape. I believe the support either was defective or made of poor quality steel, in any event it should not have rusted out.
Both passenger back doors stop opening. Drivers back door this week, passenger back door the next week. Could eventually become a death trap if problem exist inside the cab (fire, collision and can't get out, must crawl across the center counsol to exit the truck, etc. ). Expensive to replace the latching mechanisms for both doors.
5. 4 triton v8. Today while driving, spark plug and coil blew out of #7 cylinder head. This also occurred several months ago on cylinder #3. Sounded like a shotgun blast which startled me taking my attention away from the road. Gas also blowing out of cylinder hole, and luckily no fire started. Strong smell of gas was present in cab of truck. Nauseated family members riding in truck. Upon inspection found plug and coil damaged by fuel rail. Also found spark plug threads stripped out of aluminum cylinder head. Known to be a common problem with Ford 5. 4, and is also an issue that is know to be ignored by Ford. Ford estimates repair between 500. 00 and 3500. 00 for a known manufacturing defect that they blame on a spark plug maintenance issue.
My 2000 Ford f150, blowup, it exploded twice. The entire front end is gone, the extended cab is all burnt. The hood is gone totally. We hadn't driven it since may 19 of 2013. So it had not been running at all. It was around 80-90°, so what made it burn and blowup?? recalls, which part or parts?? my house also got damage, the front of the house near my truck. I thank god we we're not driving it, which we had planned to use it the next day!!.
On my vehicle I can remove the key, with the vehicle still running. I had actually gotten out of the vehice with the keys the first time I noticed it, and it was still running. I then climbed back inside ( keys still in my pocket) put the car in drive, and drove around the block. I have to be careful when I exit that the black ring around the key is turned all the way counter clockwise when I exit. I can also remove the keys while I am driving down the road. They actually fell out once while driving.
Ford F-150 heater blend door model year 97-04 is defective, causing inoperability of windshield defroster and iced over windshield interior resulting in near total loss of driver visibility during freezing conditions with snow. Ford is on notice of this problem. See the information below, from an internet company manufacturing and selling a replacement blend door, along with installation instructions not requiring removal of dash. Local dealer (jones west Ford, reno, nv. ) denies any recall, will not repair. Ford consumer complaint department denies any recall, will not repair. . Read more...
Purchased my 2000 F-150 from gorno Ford in trenton, mi with 30,000 miles on the odometer. In less than 2 years and less than 15, 000 miles the following malfunctions have occurred: front t-rod broke (replaced), front u-joints had to be replaced, parking brake froze up disabling entire system, all brake pads and rotors had to be replaced. This vehicle is not even at 50,000 miles yet.