general problems of the 2016 Ford Fusion - part 1

Shift lever does not select accurate gear due to worn bushing (NHTSA 22v-413, oem 22s43): a degrading bushing attaching the shifter cable to the transmission in certain 2013-2019 Ford vehicles, including the 2016 Fusion, may detach, preventing proper gear selection and potentially causing unexpected movement. Dealers will replace the bushing and add a protective cap.

My airbag light suddenly came on this morning and my light blinking off for the airbag was blinking my whole trip to work. I've also had my catalytic converter replaced and my check engine warning still says their is an issue when everything has been replaced lights on my mirrors also don't cut on when someone is in my blind spots the symbol is there but they don't light up my back up camera has not worked correctly since a few weeks after I got the car. I have taken it to the dealership and their stating it happens in these vehicles sometimes.

For 2 1/2 months, every time I pump gas, I couldn't get the car to start without revving the engine. I took it to the Ford service center, and they informed me that it's the canister purge valve that needed to be replaced. They also mentioned that they have seen a lot of cars with the same issue.

1st incident (oct. 8, 2024)- while traveling up a slight incline vehicle began to sputter and then stopped accelerating. No codes where thrown, no warning of any kind. The vehicle was still running and had all power, but there was no acceleration when pressing on the gas pedal. I was able to turn the car off and restart it and acceleration started but only for a brief moment, I was able to pull off into a driveway. Turned off the vehicle and restarted - vehicle would not accelerate. Turned off vehicle and waited 10-15 minutes - restarted the vehicle and the vehicle accelerated. Vehicle drove fine until the 2nd incident (Nov. 2, 2024) - stopped at a red light, once light turned green - no acceleration, no codes, no warning signs, and vehicle was still running and had power. Turned off vehicle and restarted and accelerated. Again, the vehicle drove fine until the 3rd incident (Nov. 19, 2024) - same thing happened - stopped at a red light, once light turned green - no acceleration, no codes, no warning signs, and vehicle was still running and had power. My safety and others are very much at risk due to the fact that I am not able to accelerate when needed and there isn't any warning as to when it will happen. I am luckly that I have been able to turn the vehicle off and back on again quickly.

The car started to jerk as I was driving. Sometimes it's ok other times it starts when I accelerate like it goes out of gear came on. I did try to take it to autozone with the light had already gone off. I also took it diagnostic. They said that I could transmission control module issue. I change my battery voltage. Immediately battery this resolved the problem for about 30 minutes and then the process started over again. Insecure driving this vehicle at this point I have read online. This is an issue 2016 Ford Fusion I need help .

Coolant leaked into a cylinder due to a failed head gasket at 61,000 miles. Ford replaced head gasket, but the issue is due to poorly manufactured engine, and I had the same issue starting again at 99,000 miles. Ford refuses to fix engine since it is out of warranty, but the issue is due to poor manufacturing, not customer negligence.

Kept getting a misfire on cylinder 2 after Ford preformed a “recall” on the power train control system well the car now has coolant leaking into the number two cylinder causing it to shake violently and complete loss of power luckily my wife was able to pull safely off the roadway with my [xxx] son present before losing control and having an accident information redacted pursuant to the freedom of information act (foia), 5 u. S. C. 552(b)(6).

Had a coolant leak which further damaged my whole engine. I need a new one now after only having my car for 2 years.

Vehicle after every single time we refuel have to press gas pedal to start afterwards it keeps stalling until you gun the acceleration to pick up speed. Vehicle after that runs okay until the next time you fuel up.

The canister purge valve in this vehicle repeatedly goes bad. I had a 2015 and now 2016 both with the same issue. It throws the check engine light on and will just about die everytime putting gas into the car or when stopped for random periods of time. The vehicle uses more gas and you can literally smell the fumes escaping from the flapping gas tank lid. In order to start the car you have to pump the gas petal and occasionally the car will stall out while driving.

I brought my Ford Fusion 2016 se with around 84,000miles on it, into a local dealership for recalls I needed done, my car was running completely fine before that. Ford did a multi point inspection and I passed for everything besides tires and brakes which was expected! not even 12 hours after getting my car back, my check engine light turned on. . I was so confused on how that was happening. I contacted Ford again and they told me my coolant pressure was low but that wasn’t even stated in my multi point inspection. Anyways I had to go to work the next day and my car completely stops in the middle of a main road & my car wouldn’t accelerate. The person behind me almost slammed into my back end. I have never had a complaint about my car, I love my Fusion. But after further research this is a very common problem with my specific model and year, so much so that there’s an on going lawsuit for the coolant leaking because of the design of the engine, which can cause over heating, fires, and needing an engine replacement. I was completely shocked, because they didn’t say anything about my coolant until I told them my car stopped driving in the middle of the road. . This is a serious safety hazard, and I don’t have 9k laying around for a brand new engine that was fine before I brought it in, this is a recurring problem that’s happening to so many Ford owners. This seems very sneaky and dangerous coming from such a well known company I’m so disappointed.

The car stalls out and stops moving out of no where while driving and smells like fuel as well.

There is an issue with the (evap) solenoid/associated sensor that causes the vehicle not to restart at unexpectable intervals and the fuel delivery system is also affected during fueling and seemingly during acceleration, at least. The key was recently replaced and association between the problem and the key reading mechanism is unspecified. A power train affect/association is also likely component- that based upon information provided to consumer. I've heard similar problems with other Fords and in other conversations it has not been indicated to me that the models' component's failure is not problematic. It has not been stated how that is contributory to the increased collision risk associated with the brake component that is a current recall. It began prior to the key replacement which is in the dealer repair record and 4 weeks prior to this submission is listed as the incident onset date.

After a rear-end collision, my check engine light came on. I have been told it is due to a problem with the purge valve; however, the purge value is located in the front of the vehicle. I am concerned that a rear-end collision can cause this vehicle damage to the emission system that is coded incorrectly, or a rear-end collision can cause damage to the car's computer system causing it to throw faulty codes.

I've had my Ford Fusion for about 9 months now I have white smoke coming out of the exhaust. I asked was it the head gasket and was told no. I was told it was a cracked radiator, water pump and thermostat. Cost me almost $1,700. Only for the white smoke to come back a week later.

When driving vehicle on warm starts, vehicle stalls and engine loses power. Warm start means any time vehicle was driven, turned off, and then restarted after less than 30 minutes of being turned off. For example, when fueling at a gas station, or making a quick errand into a store or fast food restaurant. One once occasion, vehicle also stalled after shifting to drive after an extended period of idling (approx. 20 minutes - was idling hoping to avoid stall when beginning to drive again). In general, vehicle will start (but may need a few tried before turning engine over), and idles at 500 rpm, rather than expected 1000 rpm. On acceleration, when vehicle reaches 2500 rpm or greater, needle drops to 0 and vehicle shuts off while driving. On some occasions, vehicle will also stall/shut off when decelerating as well (particularly in parking lots or instances when one may drive and stop/slow frequently). I took vehicle to mechanic and learned that turbo charger was leaking oil into throttle body - both were replaced by mechanic, but issues persisted. The vehicle stalls while driving, putting the safety of myself, my passengers, and other vehicles at risk in case of collision due to sudden stall. The vehicle has been taken to my local mechanic as well as the Ford dealership - in both cases I was advised that the check engine light was not on, and that there was nothing they could do until the light came on or vehicle was stalling consistently. The vehicle is now stalling consistently, however dealer informed they are not able to do anything because the engine light is still not coming on. The dealer did confirm they were able to reproduce the issue, and my local mechanic also confirmed reproducing the issue. These problems began on or around January 5, 2023 and vehicle was first assessed by local mechanic on January 11, 2023.

I purchased my car on 9/22/21 with 103,000 miles as well as opting into the extended warranty offer. Since then, I have had a lot of issues. It was taken to the dealership on 8/1/22 due to an issue with acceleration; the car would stop operating while driving to a point where I’d have to pull over, turn it off, then turn it back on. The check engine light would come on with code p0299. I had to pay for the repair since it was deemed it was a vacuum leak. . . Which wasn’t covered in my warranty. The issue returned shortly after, so my car returned to the dealership on October 3,2022. The diagnostics indicated I needed a new transmission, so I didn’t receive my car back until November 19, 2022. Shortly after receiving my car back, I noticed coolant leaking to the bottom of the engine. There is also white residue on my spark plug in the first cylinder. I have just returned from the dealership to have my vehicle diagnosed (5/16/23), but I was told I have exceeded the mileage for the warranty coverage; to have my car diagnosed for the 3 issues, it would cost $199. 99 each. . . . And it may result in requiring a new engine. . . . Which would cost around $8,000. So essentially, I am now stuck paying a car note on a vehicle that has had several major issues not even 2 years into ownership.

While driving around 35 mph I turned on cruise control and shortly after lost acceleration and power to the engine. I put the vehicle in park and pressed the engine start and the engine turned back on like normal. The next day while driving I lost power again while going about 15 mph. The car randomly loses acceleration and pressing the accelerator does nothing. The "full accessory power active" message popped up. The check engine light is on and shows code p1450. This is so dangerous since you have no warning and it can happen at any time and any speed. I am taking the car into the dealer to inspect.

I have this car with a coolanat leak into the cylinder causing a misfire resulting in fuel/oil in cylinder and white smoke coming from the exhaust. I keep on having codes pop up and my cabin smells like burnt oil my kids are smelling this on a daily basis its bad for their health I know Ford knows about this problem. If my car catches fire because of the oil problem whos responsible, I've changed out spark plugs. Coils. Fuel injectors. All sensors. An nothing seems to work. When I changed my oil it looks like oil is flooding my motor an covering my entire engine an leaking everywhere its also a road hazard.

The car stalls on idle repently and check engine light won't turn on, so there no error codes. But apparently it's a fuel pressure sensor.

Car lost power and just cut off right on railroad tracks, managed to get it restarted, called dealership in my area, took it in. They stated their computer wasn't finding anything. After a heated discussion, I finally got the head mechanic to drive it and it did the same thing to him. He said new fuel pump, so it costs me $810. 00, labor included, which I thought was rape. Just a ridiculous charge, but hey I'm at the mercy of them!!! three (3) weeks later same thing happening, just cuts off, leaving me on highway at night. Took it back, they put another fuel pump on, no charge. Week and half later, key fob doesn't unlock doors, even after putting a new battery in. Tire pressure fault came on and car continued to cut off, again leaving me in a very dangerous situation, but I got lucky. I took it back to the dealership and told them the liability is on them. The car is dangerous and unpredictable, "I do not feel safe in it" and they need to keep it until they can determine what is wrong and stop playing a guessing game. I have read over 788 complaints about this vehicle and the same things are happening to other people. I will proceed with attorney's, news media and insurance companies if this is not rectified. The car is a deathtrap!!!.

Purge valve, fuel filler neck/vacuum neck and air grill issues - check engine lights on for engine and inject issues.

I've had my Ford for almost a year and found that coolant was getting into my engine and causing it to overheat and went to get it checked out at a Ford dealership only for them to tell me I would have to buy a new engine I can't afford. I've been looking online at all the problems that could arise if I don't switch the engine like the car starting on fire in hot summer days and can't afford to buy a new car as I had to get a loan for it and can't even drive it much for worry of anything happening. It's my main source of transportation to work and without it I could lose my job. I can't afford to get a new car and another loan for that as well while paying for my Ford's loan. I've tried to do research for a recall on the engine but nothing seems to be showing up and I don't know what to do but just keep driving the car and continuously filling the coolant waiting for the day my engine fails on me or it starts on fire and maybe my insurance will cover the costs. I really enjoy the car and have had other Ford's before but for the dealership to sell me a car that would fail on me and have me pay more for an engine is not right. This isn't okay and I'm in a situation I can't get out of without being put more into debt with getting more loans.

Driving on internet highway at approximate 65 mph, the car shut off. I coasted to the roadside in heavy traffic. After many tries, the car restarted and got off the thruway and drove home. This car has 21907 miles on it. I made an appointment at gary crossley Ford in kansas city, mo. They told me it was a fuel faulty purge valve, and because the car with 21907 miles on it was out of warranty and would cost $870. 00. I have since researched the purge valve and find that it is a pretty common event to shut the car off on crowded highways. This is a serious and dangerous problem. When I called Ford dearborn to check if there was a recall, I was told it wasn't a problem.

While driving, my car stalled the for the first time without warning when I was turning into a parking lot (luckily). This was scary because I frequently drive to work using the nearby interstate. Is there a recall for my car??.

Throttle body-wpc part ds7z9e926d the throttle control element failed. Traveling on highway going about 45mph and engine jolted lost power and immediately reduced speed to about 10mph (,if car behind me was close would have ran into the rear of my car ) car was running very rough -coasted to side of highway - shut car down and restarted , car was ok for about a mile - same thing again but was able to make it home very slowly, engine running very rough. Garage replaced throttle control element. Running ok now. Incident was very scary and could have easily caused an accident.

Canister purge valve malfunction. I had trouble starting my car a couple of times and it would randomly stall out. But after getting gas this last time, I noticed a humming/grinding sound coming from the gas tank. When stopped at a red light (in rush hour traffic) the car stalled completely and wouldn't start. Had to wait a few seconds and try starting again and again, when it finally started again the noise was still there. I called a friend and we ran diagnostics on it and it returned the error of the canister purge valve malfunction. This has been a recall on other Ford cars in the past but not showing on my VIN. . . .

Car began running hot while on interstate and immediately slowed to 40mph in 70mph zone. Barely made it off interstate without being hit. After waiting for over an hour and filling with water I was able to make it home before it ran hot again. Codes p1299 and p0303 are showing. When I called Ford I was told they have had to fix hundreds of cars with the same problem which is internal coolant loss, overheating, and misfire of cylinder #3. This costs thousands of dollars I was told. I just fixed a faulty purge solenoid and can't afford to pay thousands more on things Ford should have recalled!.

At approximately 125000 miles, the vehicle displayed the check engine light and was experiencing difficulty restarting after refueling. Local auto parts store code reader displayed etc p1450. Online research pointed to a faulty cannister purge valve. This fault and accompanying symptoms were outlined in recall # 18s32. This recall is not currently applicable to my VIN. Diagnosis performed by sanders Ford in swansboro, nc confirmed faulty purge valve.

Canister purge valve malfunction. Car stalled completely and would not start back up. Thankfully this happened when I was driving slow in a parking lot and not on the busy freeway. Another time it happened at the gas station when trying to re-start my car after putting fuel in. We ran diagnostics on it and it face the error of the canister purge valve malfunction.

Purge fuel valve. Car is stalling at times. Other times it won't start. This has been a recall in the past but not showing on my VIN. Sometimes it is making a noise.

Hace 2 a�os compre un Ford fusi�n 2016 con 34,000 millas del dealer. El a�o pasado mi Ford fusi�n se me apag� cuando estaba esperando la luz verdad para avanzar, gracias a dios a los tres intentos arranco. Despu's eso lo lleve a un mec�nico personal y me dijo que eran los inyectores (267$) tambi�n en ese tiempo arreglo las buj�as porque estaban desgastadas fue raro porque yo apenas ten�a un a�o con el carro entonces lo arreglo y qued� bien. Hoy en d�a el carro empez� a hacer lo mismo del a�o pasado pero ahora como ten�a 4 recalls para arreglar lo lleve al Ford para que ellos compusieran los recalls y DE paso checaran que ES lo que tiene mi carro, en fin me llamaron DE Ford para decirme que el costo para arreglarlo ES DE 9000$ que porque ocupa motor nuevo y yo a�n estoy pagando mi carro. Pienso que el carro me lo vendieron defectuoso y yo no se que hacer porque no quiero afectar mi cr�dito si dejo DE pagar.

I have had my car for only 3 months now. Absolutely no signs that anything was bad or starting to go out. I was driving with my daughter leaving the bank and my car dies in the middle of the rd in a curve!!! the wrench tool light pops up and says see owner manual/ in the manual this indicates a power train/ awd problem. The car when started idles very rough and doesn't want to accelerate. I have read other complaints that is exactly like mine with the 2016 Ford Fusion. I am a single mom of 4 and only have this car. I am getting it to a mechanic to see what shows up. From what I have seen on other complaints it has to do with failure of the throttle body sensor! had someone been behind me we could've been hit due to the car stalling in the rd! luckily I was going down hill and was able to coast onto a side road!! thank god! many other cars the same as mine are experiencing this! please investigate this problem and recall the parts associated with it!! this is extremely dangerous especially where I live( mountains) with winding roads and less visibility for a car behind me if I stall out in a curve like I did today! I was driving on a secondary road when this happened, near the main road.

While driving on the highway, the car suddenly displayed a 'wrench' indicator which states 'see owner's manual'. The car lost the ability to accelerate (gas pedal/acceleration was disabled). After steering the vehicle to the side of the road, the car began to idle very rough before the car was turned off. I attempted to restart the vehicle, but the engine continued to idle very rough and the wrench light and check engine light both appeared illuminated. Upon inspection with an obd ii code reader, the code 'p2111' was displayed. This indicated a 'stuck open' throttle, resulting in the disabled acceleration of the vehicle. After the code was cleared, the vehicle started normally and was able to be driven home on surface roads. After brief inspection, the throttle appears to be mechanically in good condition, and investigation online indicates many other vehicles of this make/model experience a failure of the throttle body sensor. This explains the symptoms exeprienced by my vehicle despite the mechanical condition of the throttle being good. Fortunately, nobody was hurt, but sudden loss of acceleration could be extremely dangerous in a variety of scenarios, especially at highway speeds.

About a year ago the vehicle would just stop for no reason. The check engine light would come on occasionally and it said it was the fuel sensor. Sometimes the car would completely shut down when accelerating or at highway speeds. Took the vehicle in for repairs on October 17, 2019 and the issue was resolved. Now, a few months later, the same thing is happening.