general problems of the 2013 Honda CR-V

On [xxx] while making a left turn from [xxx] onto [xxx] , my 2013 Honda Cr-v began shaking and making a humming noise just before it suddenly shut off in the middle of the intersection, nearly causing a collision. There were no dashboard warning lights or error messages before the failure. The vehicle is currently in the same condition, and the fuel pump remains installed and is available for inspection upon request. No mechanic, dealer, manufacturer, police, or insurance representative has inspected the vehicle since the incident. The tow truck driver who transported the car, based on the absence of the fuel pump sound, suspected the fuel pump was malfunctioning. I replaced the battery following the incident, but the problem persists. While the official recall website indicates no open recalls for my specific VIN, there are two recalls issued for the 2013 Honda Cr-v model related to similar fuel pump issues. Information redacted pursuant to the freedom of information act (foia), 5 u. S. C. 552(b)(6).

Electronic power steering intermittently fails, mostly on low speed turns. Local Honda dealership has had the car two weeks, can’t find any error codes upon investigation. Yet problem still happens.

My 2013 Honda crv lx locks keep locking and unlocking by itself replaced drivers side lock actuator still has the same problem replaced with oem.

My Honda crv- 2013 has door locking and unlocking on its own, mainly located on the passenger side. This happens even when I am driving. My locks will just start locking and unlocking repeatedly like there is a short in the system. This is causing some type of serious drain on my brand-new battery which I just bought 2 weeks ago. Somehow the door locks are causing my entire battery to go dead. I have had to jump-start my car these past few days! this a serious and defect that is all over the internet.

The abs module stopped functioning for brakes and airbags. The dealership currently has the car and does not know why it malfunctioned. Their explanation is that the abs module went bad and it is not drivable because the brakes might lock and possibly set off the airbags. I am concerned this may effect other vehicles as it is a costly fix. The bill is currently $2,400 and they are unsure if that will fix the problem, or if it will cost more money to figure out the issue.

This is a problem with several things in the car at different intervals. The stability control warning light came "vsr indicator", the check engine light, the electric steering indicator "eps" lights came on at the same time while driving. I did not notice any problems with steering. When I got to my destination and restarted the car all the indicator lights were off. The cruise control would not work when I first started the car. After I pull over and stop and restart the car the cruise would start working. When first start the car in the morning the radio would be on but no sound. It works when I restart the car. When I first start the car all the radio station presets get reset to "0" sometimes. I have never seen the radio presets at "0" on any car. Today the stability light and steering wheel light is on and the cruise control will work for about 5 minutes. When I restart the cruise control will work again.

Engine rattles at early morning start up , Honda aware of vtc actuator default and needs to open a recall cases to all crv made between 2012-2014.

Upon light acceleration on a city street my car vibrates quite strongly and feels as though the car is going to stall. This issue seems to only happen at low speeds (10-35mph). I have contacted the local Honda dealer with my VIN# and they deny any issue with the vehicle. After further investigation I have found numerous reports online about this very same issue and how Honda is unwilling to address or fix the issue. I hope Honda issue a recall soon because this amount of vibration makes me feel as if there is a lot of mechanical wear happening with every acceleration and that the car could fail at any moment.

Drivers door lock makes a loud,grinding sound when the door is locked. Unable to lock the vehicle. Door lock actuator replaced, lasted one day, problem came back. Rear left door lock does not open or close using the remote. It must be manually opened or closed.

Battery issue ,it die with out no risen ,the the triple aaa test [ charging system test] no problem . It happen so many times . What can I do?.

Judder, akin to driving on the rumble strips alongside a highway. Happens when slowly accelerating between 20-30 mph. Purchased the vehicle in 10/2016.

Loud, grinding sound upon starting the vehicle, after sitting overnight.

Door locks locking/unlocking while driving. Also, passenger front door won't lock either with key fob or manually.

I went out Saturday morning started the car and the steering malfunction light was on and I had no power steering (eps). I called the dealer they said they couldn't help until Tuesday (Monday holiday) so it isn't fixed yet.

I have hum installed. I keep getting "issues with battery" . Your car may not start due to loss of charge in battery. I am disabled and cannot afford for this to happen out of the clear blue. Thank you I really have no idea of when this ocurred, but did have new battery installed for $ 169. 00 at dealership and still getting warning from hum.

My car had less than 34,000 and I went to start it and it was totally dead. It would not take a jump, I had to had it towed and it turned out it had a dead cell and I had to replace the battery. The last car I had the battery was over 10 years old. This car is over 3 years so there was no warranty on it. Just feel this should be checked into.

The rear liftgate and rear passenger door failed to open when I used the remote to unlock the vehicle. The rear liftgate did open after the third try with the remote key fob. The passenger side rear door will not open by either the exterior or interior door handle. I engaged and disengaged the rear seat child lock several times and attempted to open the door, the door still will not open.

The contact owns a 2013 Honda Cr-v. While the vehicle was stopped, the contact noticed a hanging wire and the all wheel drive continuously illuminated. The vehicle was taken to a dealer where it was diagnosed that the cover for the axle was hanging and the electronic all wheel drive sensor cracked and needed to be replaced. The vehicle was repaired, but the failure recurred. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 28,000. The VIN was not available.

On 9/23/14 30000 mile check up performed at dealership where I bought the car. On 10/14/14 in heavy rush hour traffic I accelerated to pass a car on interstate 4; vehicle hiccuped and lost power; able to go to shoulder of the road across 3 lanes of traffic; turned vehicle off then on again; vehicle started without hesitation. Drove car to dealership where I bought it; they checked it out; said they could not find anything wrong; however, they ran a computer update for the alternating system stating that they "think" problem is solved. Contacted Honda regional; they authorized an inspection at a different Honda dealership on 11/12/14. I was again told that they could find no reason that the vehicle lost power; at that point, Honda regional told me there is nothing more they can do. I am not satisfied with this answer. Do I have any recourse?.

Driver side doesn’t blow hot air. Especially, in winter it has been a problem with fogging windows and windshield. It is very unsafe because of very poor visibility. I see this has been a very common issue with many Honda crv vehicles. Hope NHTSA will take this seriously. Thank you.

The heater seems to be overheating and melting my vents. I have taken it to Honda, and they stated that it was impossible for a heater to get that hot. The heater is so hot that you cannot touch the vents if the heater is turned on, you have to wait 2-4 minutes after turning it off before you can touch the vents. I complained about the vents melting, and they said that it must have been something I did to make it happen, and will not replace the vents or check the heater until I figure out what happened to the vents.

The car comes with a battery of insufficient size and an inadequate charging system. The vehicle should not need jump starting after normal driving conditions with a fairly new battery. The 1st time it happened was after 3 months and again at 6 months. Suggested solutions include turning off econmode, riding in d3 or 2nd, or taking long rides at freeway speeds. The car was not advertised as being this defective for everyday driving. It also has poor high beams and freezing windshield washers.

The high beam headlights on this vehicle and my daughter's similar car are a defective design. There are many complaints already regarding this. The only way you can see decently is with a combination of low beams and driving lights.

The headlights keep blowing. Have been through 3 sets in 10 months! taken it in to Honda, and they blame the consumer's improper installation as a cause. We had auto zone help us install them each time. Been complaining since day 1 that the headlights constantly dim and come back up. Honda blames the cars "small battery" as the reasoning behind it. Then if it's their "battery" that's causing it then make the space bigger! also, on multiple occasions have noticed the car lags when hitting the accelerator. Has almost caused multiple collisions. You press the accelerator expecting the car to move, but it delays. Which is really dangerous when your trying to make a quick turn. Honda says "it's normal, all cars do it". There really needs to be recalls issued for these! these things are major safety issues! I've reviewed multiple people stating the same issues with their Honda's, and yet Honda refuses to help their consumers and still continues to produce faulty and dangerous cars.

When entering a highway on-ramp in making the turn all doors were suddenly unlocked and the front courtesy lights in the passenger compartment came on. This has now happened about 10 times when cornering.

First, second and third incident, pertained of all 4 doors locking and unlocking repeatedly, by themselves while the vehicle was in drive, going down the freeway and on surface streets. The most reent incident was 12/16/13. The vehicle would not unlock. I used both the after market remote start fob, the fob on the original factory key and also the manual unlock by putting the key in the door. After 2 hours of constantly pushing buttons and checking all entrances to the vehicle, the vehicle unlocked on it's own, without pushing any of the buttons. My 15 month old child and I were literally stranded for these 2 hours until a tow truck could come to us. Not to mention that the car unlocked itself on it's own right before the tow company showed up. What if my child had been inside of the vehicle when this happened????.