general problems of the 2013 Hyundai Elantra - part 1

The car failed to go into the park. The vehicle was in park and continued to roll, and we placed the emergency brake on. The vehicle was towed to the dealership. The dealership replaced it with a new shift cable clip, and now the car operates. We noticed the vehicle had a previous recall that was repaired in 2019. The shift clip repair is for the same clip that failed, resulting in being unable to shift in gear. When asked why we were charged for a recall repair that didn't last, we were told we could only fix a repair once and that we needed to pay. The concern is if this vehicle was parked on an incline I could roll forward running into something and someone. From the record there was roughly 40k miles between recall repair and the failure of the clip that was supposed to fix this problem.

The contact owns a 2013 Hyundai Elantra. The contact stated that while her daughter was driving at an undisclosed speed, she heard an abnormal knocking sound coming from the engine compartment, and the vehicle lost all motive power. The driver was able to pull over to the shoulder of the roadway, where the vehicle then stalled and failed to restart. Several unknown warning lights were illuminated. The vehicle was towed to the dealer, who diagnosed a general engine failure. The contact was informed that the engine needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure, and a case was opened. The failure mileage was 155,000.

My engine is ticking. The auto shop told me that my motor is shot and the same thing happened to my sons car. We both have the same car same year. There has been a law suit for this issue.

The contact owns a 2013 Hyundai Elantra. The contact stated while driving at various speeds, the vehicle hesitated upon depression of the accelerator pedal. The contact also stated that the vehicle would shut off while idling with the check engine warning light illuminated. Neither the dealer nor the manufacturer was notified of the failure. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The failure mileage was approximately 200,000.

Transmission stopped running at 100,000 miles.

Well not even at 100,000 miles yet suspension noise all four engine not good as its not work well with the way they have set up with no dip stick suspension clink clack crazy not even at 100. 00.

I was stopped at a traffic light, when my car stalled out and shut off, completely random, no warning signs whatsoever. No warning lights, no weird unusual sounds from the vehicle, just all of a sudden it shuts off! so I had to hurry and put it into park, turn the key back to off, and try to turn it back on. It barely started, once it was started we had a green light plus it sounded like it was going to stall out on me again. But when I pressed down on the gas peddle, there wasn't any normal acceleration. The car was in 5th gear and wouldn't shift down to allow it to accelerate at all like it should. So I am trying to get out of the middle of the intersection, had the peddle to the floor, and it's barely moving. While I'm trying not to die, I also noticed that there was no rpms being shown on the dashboard. Like absolutely 0 rpms. This isn't the only time this has done this to me!! it seems like it's becoming more frequent, although still without warning indicating that it was going to act this way. And of course it's been at a busy intersection, basically playing chicken with my life. My husband hooked up a code reader to see if anything pops up and nothing indicates any sort of problem. It will be going to the shop for them to look at ASAP, but I haven't been able to successfully replicate the issue on command, it just does it whenever it wants to, conveniently when it's just myself and my 9 year old son in the car, no one else that may be mechanically inclined along. This has happened twice now, 1st time last week, and the latest time was today. It gets serviced regularly like it's supposed to, and it will be up for inspection in July 2022.

In March of 2022 I took my car to have its regularly scheduled oil change at mellow motors and while I was there the service technician recommended I make a follow up appointment with the Hyundai dealership due to irregularities he noticed in the engine. I took my car to the dealership and dropped it off hoping this would be a minor concern that would be resolved quickly. When Hyundai initially contacted me that they would need to do a more thorough evaluation/diagnosis, I was surprised and concerned that something more significant may be wrong with the engine as the car was relatively new (previously garaged and serviced every 6 months), had low miles (54,000 miles), and had been taken care of extremely well since it was purchased new off the lot by my grandparents. When I started gresearching engine concerns in Hyundai Elantra’s 2013, I was even more surprised to find that engine issues were actually not uncommon in this year of Hyundai Elantras, and the issue known as "piston slap" not only lead to total engine failure, but could develop for no discernible reason, and was so common hyudai had settled a class action lawsuit related to the matter instead of facing a recall on these vehicles. I found out I missed the date to file a claim by 8 months. Despite learning this, given the circumstances of the engine diagnosis (“started vehicle found piston slap noise. Found scuffing on all four cylinder walls. As per tsn replacement of block assembly and necessary component required”) and learning that my car was included in the settlement, I figured Hyundai would offer to fix my engine under the settlements extended warranty clause to ensure their cars to ensure safety, or at the very least, offer to partially pay for the engine replacement, but I have been denied coverage for this engine concern. I think this is a very significant safety concern and that this year of Hyundai Elantra's should be recalled and replaced.

My car was repaired for noise in engine a year and half later making same noise why is that? the computer was updated when I got the recall on it now I have nothing but problems with the same sound of engine.

The car experienced (1) poor acceleration, (2) check engine light come on, (3) engine stalling, (4) tachometer drops to zero. It was first found the map sensor was faulty. After the sensor was replaced, the car ran but stalled again intermittently. It was found the problem was caused by crank shaft position sensor (fault code p0335). After the senor was replaced about three weeks ago, the car has been running fine.

A ticking/knocking noise is going on in the engine, powertrain. It's been happening since I bought the vehicle and is worse in cold weather. It is believed to be a valve train issue. The knocking gets worse when I accelerate, also. This appears to be a known problem with 2013 Hyundai Elantras, but there isn't a recall for the engine. I contacted Hyundai and they've been slow to respond. My vehicle is currently with the business that I bought it from. They're using the quick, temporary warranty to get a new used engine, but I'm concerned that the same ticking/knocking noise will occur with the new used engine, because they refuse to use a different brand engine. I'd prefer that Hyundai do a straight up recall for the engines that consistently perform this way - with a knocking noise that hinders the performance of the vehicle.

Motor blown when vehicle had 130000 miles after regular oil changes.

The car feels like it can't get power shakes slow to accelerate for half a block then acceleration. It's happened 5 times today. Other days it sounds like it's not running smoothly and then does ok after awhile. This happened with car in park, backing up, going forward, 2 different stops at lights and 2 more stops til I got home.

The contact owns a 2013 Hyundai Elantra. While driving approximately 35 mph, the battery indicator and headlights flickered. Other unknown indicators on the instrument panel were also illuminated. The vehicle lost power and decelerated. The dealer was not contacted. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure and provided case number: 16408283. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The failure mileage was approximately 217,500.

About 3 months ago my 2013 Hyundai Elantra became sluggish in accelerating. It has gradually gotten worse. I tried fuel cleaners, premium gas, and now a tune up replacing coil packs and plugs. The vehicle crawls and does not accelerte as quick as it should. It cuts off or refuses to move when given gas at all stops. I switch off then on at red lights as it seems to want to take off when the engine is started. When I reach about 50mph the rpm hand guns and the bottoms out to stay at zero with no change in acceleration. There is now a whirring noise sporadically coming from the engine. After the ti e up the issues continue with cutting off ,rough idling, extremely slow snail accelleration with the engine light on.

Tl the contact owns a 2013 Hyundai Elantra. The contact stated that the stabilitrak and traction control warning indicators flashed, the steering wheel made an abnormal noise when turned in either direction, and the vehicle accelerated slowly when the accelerator pedal was depressed. Rancho grande motors (1404 auto park way, san luis obispo, CA 93405, (805) 543-4745) was notified of the failures. The vehicle was currently at the dealer for diagnostic testing. The manufacturer was notified of the failures. The approximate failure mileage was 39,600.

Timing chain is damaged and car is only 5 years old and have kept up with the maintenance.

My car has 63,300 miles on it. I bought it used in December 2017, six months and my mechanic is telling me it is the engine and it needs to be replaced. When I bought the car it had a ticking sound, very low. I thought once it idled and I start driving it would go away. I was driving on the freeway recently and my car would not go over 60 mph. The rpm would not go past 2. 5. When I exited the freeway, and stopped at the light I had whit smoke coming from my car. When I use my air, I can't accelerate over 40 mph. Everyday it's driven it, get's worse.

This vehicle is under 70,000 miles and has powertrain issues. The car makes a ticking noise when it starts up as well when driving. The car really makes this noise when you try to accelerate up an incline or over 40 mph. It seems to have a difficult time getting to go over 2000 rpm's at times. The car has also cut off multiple times when in d.

Tsb14-at-010.

On multiple occasions, and more frequently, once vehicle is put in drive the display goes blank and the car is unable to be moved past neutral to be put in park. Car must be turned off and back on in order to move gear shift to neutral or park.

While driving on beltway doing 55 mph the vehicle won't accelerate and also makes sounds when pushing on gas the rpm will be moving back and front even when car not moving. Car smells like something is burning. The car will start to slow down and shut it self off. All lights will turn on then I shut car off completely then turn back on and it starts up like nothing happened this has happened multiple times. Then when sitting still at a light the car shut off.

I have been having electrical issues for about 1 1/2 years. The radio turns off when breaking and signaling. Not every time but about 2/3 of the time. Occasionally the dash will go out. The interior lights flicker (all the time) as well as the head lights. Not sure about the back lights because I can't see them but I assume. The temperature gauge does not light up sometimes. No bars are displayed. The trip computer resets at least 4 times a week. The avg mpg, mph, trip a and b will start over at 0. 0. Turning left makes the car shutter and turn off in mid traffic or when in a drive thru. The steering wheel locks up/stiff steering. The eps light comes on. Have to turn car off and back on to alleviate the issue. While the car is idling with the air conditioner on the car will cycle and just about turn off.

Transmission feels like it is slipping. Difficult shifting from park to drive or reverse. The car jerks and lurched when in gear and driving whether speeding up or d losing down. The check engine light had not turned on indicating a problem. The dealership recalibrated the transmission last week and the car was returned to the shop within 24 hours with the same issue magnified. The dealership now says they cannot duplicate the issue. When the issue first presented I was in motion on a busy city street. Previously the car had a faulty range switch that was intermittent and took 6 months to duplicate for the dealership. Their initial fix was to adjust the switch, a year later the issue returned and they replaced the switch at that time. Wondering if the two issues are related.

The contact owns a 2013 Hyundai Elantra. While operating the vehicle, the brake lights remained illuminated when the brake pedal was released, the traction control indicator remained illuminated, and the gear shifter could be switched from park to drive without depressing the brake pedal. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic who replaced the pedal switch, but the failures continued. The manufacturer was not notified of the failures. The VIN was not available. The failure mileage was 66,795.

The engine of my 2013 Hyundai Elantra GLS failed to start the morning of 1/3/17 while parked in the driveway. I turned the key in the ignition numerous times without success. The dash lights would illuminate, but the car wouldn't start or even try to turn over. After appx. 15 attempts, it finally started. I bought a new battery hoping that would fix problem. However, the problem repeated on 1/18/17, again while parked in driveway. After roughly 50 attempts to start the car and trying to wiggle the gear shift, it finally started. I then drove to the dealership and left the car with them overnight. The following day I was advised by the service department that since they could not get the car to duplicate the problem or trigger any diagnostic codes, they could not repair it or replace any parts. Fortunately, to date I have been in safe places during daylight hours when my car failed to start. However, I may not always be so fortunate and could possibly be stranded in a very vulnerable location in the future. Out of the 430 complaints listed against the 2013 Elantra on the NHTSA website, roughly 7% of the owners reported experiencing this identical problem. A further search of the internet reveals many, many more such complaints. One might believe that could indicate the existence of a widespread problem; yet, it does not appear that the manufacturer has issued any recalls or service bulletins specific to my vehicle model to address/fix this engine failure.

2013 Hyundai Elantra. Consumer writes in regards to vehicles stalling for a few seconds in lower gears when trying to accelerate. Updated 11/22/2017.

The contact owns a 2013 Hyundai Elantra. While driving at any speed, the vehicle failed to accelerate and the check engine warning indicator illuminated. The failure recurred several times. The dealer (Hyundai palatine in palatine, IL) was unable to duplicate or diagnose the failure. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The vehicle was not repaired. The failure mileage was approximately 60,000. The VIN was not provided.

The gear shift in my automatic drive 2013 Hyundai Elantra will not shift back into park occassionaly. With some trying it has gone back into park or using the shift lock. I assume that this could cause some potential danger had I not been on a flat service or in an area where I could try to get it to go back in to park. Luckily I was stationary on a level lot during the 5 times that this has happened to me. This has occurred multiple times and my car has approximately 55k miles.

The front axles are loose, making a clicking noise each time the car accelerates or decelerates. Safety issue may result if the axle becomes loose enough to fall off the chassis.

The vehicle has a faulty range inhibitor. It will occasionally prevent the vehicle from starting because the vehicle will not recognize it is in park. The vehicle is in park when this issue occurs.

My engine started making ticking noises around 75000, took car in for 75000 mile maintenance and asked service department to check for noise and car acceleration problems. Tech later told me its normal and nothing they can find wrong with car. Now I see from looking on the internet its a common problem but now my car is out of warranty. I also went in before my warranty ended to have the 100000 mile maintenance service and complained about the same issue, they still said it normal. Today I just contact my local Hyundai service department to see what options I have.

Car starts but won't stay on, new battery installed, still doesn't turn on, in garage and is being towed to dealership. Windowshied fog constantly, and all f a sudden after 10 minutes and only way to defog---open windows. , happens every am as driving to work on freeway or home at nights. The car is well maintained. Gas mileage is not 33 miles per gallon. Disappointed. Also sun roof doesn't close, was fixed, and still doesn't close all the way without me doing fancy maneuver with switch. Concerned- major safety issue!!.

Vehicle failed to start in park or neutral. Eventually after multiple attempts moving the shifter vehicle started. This has been an intermittent issue over the course of several months. Dealership identified issue as having to do with a faulty range switch. It appears to be a common defect among various Hyundai models as evidenced by the link below but manufacturer thus far refuses to issue recall on defect. . Read more...

My 2014 Hyundai Elantra did not start on three separate occasions over the past month. The dash lights and indicators came on but the engine did not crank or make any sound. Eventually after multiple attempts over 10 minutes, the engine started. I am concerned that the car will not start at all and leave me stranded. On one other occasion after starting, the gear shift would not move out of the park position.