general problems of the 2013 Hyundai Veloster - part 2

On going issue since 2016 with the failure of the rubber coupling in the motor driven power steering (mdps) assembly. Loose steering, knocking noise, worsening overtime. Known issue with the Hyundai elantra and recall issued for the same part and issue on the elantra. But not for the Veloster, service department acknowledged identical part usage in Veloster and mdps assembly is failing in the Veloster with same safety issues. But since no recall have been issued full cost of replacement passed to consumer. $5 dollar rubber coupler, +$500 labor.

1) steering wheel remote controls for radio & phone have been intermittent since original purchase; 2) air conditioning system does not completely restrict outside/engine warm air coming into cabin when not using a/c, for instance when windows down; 3) clock does not work consistently (it only recently just started working all by itself.

The problem initially started with an errant tire pressure warning when in reality I had a faulty wheel speed sensor (right front). The tire warning light would clear when the ignition was turned off then back on but the problem would persist and progressed to the electronic steering disabling (no steering), the speed controls not functioning (no speedometer or cruise control), the traction control disabling (no traction control), and most worrisome is that the built in keyless ignition safety systems were disabled. This meant that the keyless ignition button (postioned 2 inches from the gear shift lever!) would and did turn the car off if inadvertatnly bumped. I down shifted on the freeway from 6th to 5th at approximately 65 mph and bumped the button completely shutting off the entire car. 65 mph and no control is horribly dangerous. The design is inherently flawed if a wheel speed sensor can disable the entire car at freeway speeds.

At interstate speeds (60 mph and above),the vehicle's steering becomes unexpectedly heavy, and it seemingly takes an unusual (and possibly, momentarily alarming) amount of steering effort to keep the vehicle "centered" on the road.

Vehicle slips out of gear often. Dealership cannot duplicate problem, and one dealer dismissed my complaint. Happens after accelerating from a stop when shifting from 1-2 but has happened when shifting 2-3 and it slips out and engine revs, disengaged from wheels (as if in neutral). This is when using it in normal mode, not sport or manual shift. There are numerous other complaints online in various forums (not yet on nhsta site it seems) this is very unsafe in traffic as the driver must stop accelerating, shift car into n and then back to drive to get it to work again.

My daughter was driving at a low rate of speed and preparing to make a left turn on surface streets. The steering wheel locked in place and she was able to stop the car. She kept the car running and continued to attempt to turn the steering wheel. After approximately 60 seconds of this activity the steering wheel returned to normal operation.

When I entered the car and turned it on the steering wheel was locked . The engine was running and I could put it in gear but the steering would not turn. After I restarted the car a couple of times the problem was corrected but I am worried this will happen while driving and might cause a crash. This problem was repeated in 2 different occasions. Another issue that happened twice was that I would put the car in reverse and it would not move. Same issue was resolved . If this car is faulty and from the complaints I see that it is . . There must be something done about it!.

When driving the vehicle the back wants to step out of line when going over bumps, this is more pronounced when going around a curve. Also when the vehicle hits a patch of snow, during the transition on to the snow and off the car feels like the ends want to switch places. If one rear tire transitions onto snow or ice the entire rear of the car wants to travel that direction, it also does this when crossing asphalt patches. It is more pronounced on roads with vertical grooving in the concrete. There have been time when in light snow conditions I have had to go about 35-40 mph just to keep the car straight and in my lane. By doing so I became a rolling roadblock, as the other traffic did not have the same issue as I did. I did go through a bbb case with the vehicle, but neither time were the road conditions conducive to this issue, and per Hyundai everything is set to factory specs(which I do not doubt). There is an inherent design flaw with the rear suspension of this vehicle and if something is not done, lives may be lost.

As I was driving on the freeway, traveling down an interchange to another freeway, I depressed the gas pedal. Once I completely let off the gas, I started to apply the brakes. Just as I started to steer into the turn, the steering wheel locked up and I removed my foot from the brake pedal. The car started accelerating and braking on its own, without my application of any pedals. The wheels locked up without me applying the brakes. I was put into a four wheel slide where I was almost ran into an embankment. The wheels then unlocked prior to the possible impact and the vehicle started accelerating and braking again on its own. During this entire time, my steering wheel was still locked up. I was able to put my car in neutral and the car headed to the side of the freeway. The steering wheel was still locked up when I put the vehicle into the neutral position. The convulsions (random braking and aceelerating) stopped once I put the car into neutral. With the car still unable to be controlled and traveling on the side of the freeway, I shut off the vehicle. Once the vehicle was restarted, the random braking and accelerating ceased and the steering wheel was no longer locked up. This could have ended very badly, not only for myself, but for others who may have been on the road at the time.

When driving the steering does not stay straight. When driving over a bump the steering is knocked off by a few degrees it does not straighten out again (for eg if it is knocked to 5 deg it won't go back to 0, instead it will settle on 1 or 2 degrees). This means a minor lapse in concentration could result in the car drifting into another lane.