general problems of the 2017 Subaru Outback - part 2

Battery was defective.

1st battery failure within 3 years of purchase of vehicle. Jumped 3 times in 2 mths. Purchased new battery (interstate)10/7/2020 today 09/12/2022 same issue began. Car shows no issues with battery failure. Drove on sun. To church and around for a little drive, no issues. Left home Monday afternoon, gone couple of hours, not stop and go traffic. Turned off ignition. After about 30 min went to start car and nothing. Just complete nothing. 8:36 p. M. Aaa . Comes to jump battery - drove home. Aaa man said the battery was totally dead and that I needed a new one.

2017 Subaru Outback -- have nearly 50k miles on it. Suddenly the key is not removing from the ignition key slot. I looked this up and see this is a recurring problem in Subarus. I anticipated it can't cost a huge amount to take care of this problem. See people have quoted $500 / $600, or more, and that was a few years ago! are you kidding? that's ridiculous and not in a cost range I can afford! it's obviously a Subaru flawed design.

I arrived at my destination. I turned the ignition off. The engine turned off. I opened the driver's door and the engine turned on. I did not turn the ignition on. I again turned the ignition off. This time the engine remained off.

I was pulling into a parking lot. The attendant told me to back our 2017 Outback into a spot running along a fence and row of trees. I pulled forward, put my foot on the brake to fully stop. I then moved from "drive" to "reverse". Immediately, the engine started to rev very loudly as if my foot was on the accelerator (it was not!). The accelerator seemingly went to the floor and within a few seconds our car was in reverse at high speed. The only thing that stopped us was a maple tree and fence that we hit - about 15-20 yards behind us. The backend of the car is pushed in, including into the cabin, the rear window shattered etc. The fence is destroyed and tree damaged. My spouse, in the passenger seat, experienced a minor concussion and we both ended up with severe whiplash. If it weren't for the tree we would have just kept going. We are waiting on state farm claim adjustor to see the car. I did inform Subaru (where the car was towed) what happened; they didn't seem particularly interested. We did get a police report. Thankfully, no one was hit. There were no signs of any problem with the accelerator prior to this incident. I am now, however, aware of numerous complaints and suits in related cases.

I experienced 2 incidences of sudden unexpected acceleration (sua), the second one led to an explosive collision. Subaru asked that I sign the edr release but refused to give me (rightful owner) a copy. With significant effort I obtained a copy of the edr for myself. It is near impossible for the consumer to obtain their rightful copy, significant because it stinks of poor transparency for Subaru to investigate Subaru (see below). Once I obtained my copy, I released the edr to Subaru and my vehicle was inspected by soa at our local dealership. For some untold reason, the vehicle would "not to be released to me" at the end of the day but was held for additional time at the dealership. Later customer "advocacy" informed me that the results of the investigation was that the throttle was active 1. 5 seconds prior to impact and that it was a case of "pedal misapplication". Because I also had the data I was acutely aware of how soa cherry picked data to match their own narrative. I know for a fact what happened considering all the data, together with the actual facts of this potentially fatal accident. I was pulling straight into the parking spot, yet the edr mistakenly "thinks" that the car is turning sharply to the right the entire time (edr shows this and why pbs not active). The electronic sensors are being fed erroneous information. With the steering wheel 'supposedly' at full lock, the power steering pump is told to spin faster to maintain pressure. The computer tries to pick up speed for this and sends an electronic message to open the throttle. The rpms suddenly surge and the vehicle explodes forward leaving only a fraction of a second to react before impact (at which point edr confirms brake was on). Intermittent failures in electronic sensors do in fact happen as experts know. Incredibly, soa refused to hear me. I am concerned for the safety of other Subaru drivers as well as those in the path of a Subaru sua incidence. Ignoring this can have fatal consequences.

The battery of the car keep dying, leaving us stranded in what could possibly be unsafe situations. We have gotten the battery checked out numerous times at the dealership, plus got a battery replacement in October 2020 but it still keeps occurring. This is a 2017 Outback with less than 30,000 miles, so should not be happening.

Battery continually drains. I have had 2 replaced since may. I have contacted Subaru and they said I just have not driven it around enough after battery install. I have had them check for a drain, and they can’t find anything. There are no lights on or any other reason to drain the battery. This coincides with my key becoming stuck in the ignition. Waiting on a part to replace the ignition under warranty.

My windshield cracked for no apparent reason (no impact) - in the bottom quarter of the passenger side. The crack spread, requiring replacement of the windshield. I had Subaru replace the windshield. Exactly one week later, the new windshield cracked in exactly the same place. It, too will require replacement.

2017 Subaru Outback windshield breaks when a small rock hits it. This is the 4th times happen to our vehicle and a very expensive cost to replace it about $1000. We are very upset about it.

I started having battery issues with my car. I had my car at the mechanic for a regular state inspection. They told me that I had a bad battery that it had died numerous times. I was shocked because I had never jumpstarted my car in the past. I began to believe the dealership sold me the car with a bad battery. I knew this because I tried to drive the car out of the lot when I first purchased and the battery was dead. They told me to come back the next day and they would have a new battery in it. I guessed then that they never replaced the battery. So I then purchased a new battery from the mechanic. 6 months later my car wouldn't start. I had left nothing running in the car. The next day my car started. Then 2 months later, my husband drove my car to get food. He parked the car for 5 minutes and went in to get the food. When he came back, the car wouldn't start again. We had to jumpstart it. I believe something is wrong with the car overall, causing the battery to drain without the consumer's knowledge, this is a safety concern as it leaves the consumer stranded wherever they are. My husband was left sitting there with my daughter until I could come pick them up. The Outback will just die without warning. I tried calling the dealer about it, they didn't return my call. I now scheduled an appointment to have them look at it. I will see what they say, however it seems like other consumers of this car are having the same issues.

A spontaneous crack began at the bottom, center of my windshield about a week ago and began inching up and over. It is continuing to grow while I try to figure out where and when to have it replaced. I live in the mountains and this is not an easy trip to the dealer. While searching for a dealer to replace the windshield, I found the problem with spontaneous cracks in other Outbacks.

On 2/13/22 I started my vehicle to move it back into the garage. Upon putting it into 'drive' the engine unexpectedly started to ramp up the rpms accelerating the vehicle forward. Fortunately I had my foot on the break slowing the progression and I was able to switch the gear to 'neutral'. At that point the engine began to continue to ramp up the rpms. I tried depressing and releasing the accelerator to see if the engine would respond and decrease the rpms, it did not. I then switched off the engine to keep it from accelerating/increasing the rpms. About five minutes after the initial incident I started the vehicle. Immediately upon startup the vehicle rpms starting to ramp up. I tired depressing and releasing the accelerator to see if the engine would respond and decrease the rpms, it did not. I then switched off the engine to keep it from accelerating/increasing the rpms. After another five minutes I started the vehicle again. This time I let the car warmup for a minute before placing it into gear. During this time I did not experience another incident.

My parked car, engine off, has not started six times in the last 9 months. Battery is dead. Parasitic battery drain with this model car. Battery and alternator has been checked by mechanics 4 times, both are good. Also checked by interstate battery. They took the battery out and checked it overnight. The battery is less than 18 months old, all say it is good, not the problem. Six times I have had to have my car jumped to start. Dangerous for a older person to be stranded. Nothing was left on, no lights or utilities . Car also will not start if not driven for several days. This model 2017 Subaru has a mechanical problem, it has a parasitic power drain.

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Noticed rust bubble in the inner and outer paint of the driver front door pillar December 2021. Noticed it was getting substantially worse and reported it to Subaru July 2022. They said there was no pinhole in the rust and would not be covered. Showed it to Subaru again in 2023, and said it is not covered under their 5 year rust plan. It is now January 2024, and the paint as well as base metal is peeling from the door. It is clear there is damage to the base metal, and represents a weakened location in the door/frame/pillar structure should there be a rollover accident. Bought this car for its safety reputation. Online forums have noted that Subaru has replaced doors for this same premature failure of the door in the same location on multiple vehicles.

I have a 2017 Subaru Outback. It rained hard Monday night into Tuesday. When I got in my car Tuesday am to take my kids to school, there a small crack, maybe 3 inches, there was no crack previously. As I drove my kids to school we watched the crack grow larger and larger. There was no debris or anything near the windshield when we got it. It seems to me that a windshield should be able to withstand a hard rain. I googled it and it seems that Subaru's have problem with their windshields and it doesn't seem right. Thank you.

Subaru Outback 2018 windshield cracked & spread in one day. Lower left corner, spreads like a large “s”. Approximately 10” high & 10” in the curve of “s”. At driver’s eyesight.

Departed home and haven drive say 100 yards roughly, car came to a full stop. Car would idle, I could shift into park drive, reverse etc. . There was no reaction to pressing accelerator. I was stuck. I was in a slow traffic area so I was not concerned. If I was in a a fast speed four lane highway I could have been rear ended and harmed or killed. After say 15 minutes of fiddling with ignition, shifting in various modes, the engine came to life and I proceeded to my destination. The problem happened again say one month later. A duplicate of first incident. I immediately took vehicle to gerald jones Subaru in martinez GA. Diagnostics and test drive found nothing wrong. Wrote to Subaru headquarters on 9/24/2021 with complaint. To date I have received no reply. This has to be a safety issue with Subaru. I note other folks on internet with same problem so its not just me. Lastly. I note that when I bought my Subaru I also bought same model for my wife. We are both senior citizens (I am 89) and fearful of driving these cars.

My windshield has had a crack in the lower left side to the lower middle for about 9 months and just recently the right lower side has a crack about 10 inches. I have not been in any accidents since I have owned my car or have had any thing happen that would make a crack on it. I cannot afford to replace it.

Windshield has cracked for the second time without any specific incident noted. Just started cracking from the bottom up.

Driving home from church Sunday when I heard a loud cracking sound. Sounded like something on the roof, so opened up the cover to the sunroof and saw nothing. When I pulled off to look, I found a long crack in the windshield passenger side running from the bottom of the windshield up to the left just shy of the middle of the passenger seat. There was no one in front of me, so no rock got kicked up and no bird strike. Today the crack lengthened to about the half-way point on the windshield.

Our windshield has cracked three times in the past nine months, each time with no impact to it from rock or other object. The crack starts spontaneously and spreads across the windshield. After replacing it in November 2020, we just chalked it up to bad luck, then it happened again in June. Each time, we replaced it with Subaru factory glass and had the eyesight safety technology calibrated by the certified technician. Now it's happened again (August 2021). I've read of many other Subaru owners with similar experiences, and the Subaru service manager in athens, GA admitted he sees more cracked windshields with Subarus than other makes. Please advise on how we can resolve this issue and safely drive our vehicle. Thank you.

Placing car in park and attempt to remove key. Key remains locked in ignition. Car remains in the on position with steering wheel not locked and radio/lights on. I must re-start the car, put in drive, rock gear shift and slam back into park. This procedure eeds to be repeated until the key can be removed. It is occurring with increasing frequency, at least once per day at this point.

The ignition key becomes stuck in the ignition upon stopping the vehicle and placing the gear shifter into "park" and turning the vehicle off. Intermittently the key is unable to be removed from the ignition even though the vehicle is in the "park" position and turned off. Usually after starting and stopping the vehicle and moving the gear shift a few times the key can be removed from the ignition. This problem does not occur every time the vehicle is driven, but lately it is happening more frequently.

The windshield cracked spontaneously needing replacement.

The windshield was hit by a small rock while driving on a highway at 65 mph. The rock caused a crack less than a millimeter in diameter. After continuing to drive the vehicle on highways and paved streets for 4 more hours, the small crack expanded to be approximately a foot going across the windshield from the passenger side to the middle of the windshield.

The key gets stuck in the acc selection mode when trying to turn the car off. It will not turn all the way back to turn off the electrical or allow the key to be removed. This has been happening often for a few weeks.

We were driving along the highway when the windshield began to crack at the edge of the driver's side. We parked the car and went shopping for an hour. When we came back, the crack had doubled in length. I see, and know, there are issues with the windshield for this model year (a friend of mine had his replaced for free a couple of years ago). Need to get on that list.

I have had multiple issues over the years with the battery 2017 Subaru Outback keeping a charge and I have required a jump multiple times. My latest issue is over the last 3-4 months I have required a jump and while researching the issue, I came across chimicles action lawsuit for the same problem I've been having. Please include my information in any database where information is being collected. Feel free to reach out to me if more information is needed.

The data control module failed after only 30,000 miles. It's a 2017 Subaru Outback and because of not driving last year (2020), the 3 year warranty was no longer in effect. We are paying $1500, for a failed part (data control module) that caused two consecutive batteries to drain. The car will not start without jumping it.

The battery keeps failing. It's my 4th battery change and I can feel that I will need to change the 4th one soon.

2017 Outback. Unable to remove the key from the ignition. Once in park turning the steering wheel back and forth doesn't help to release the key. Moved gear shift multiple directions until eventually the key was removed. The key isn't particularly worn.

My new battery was drained to a point the vehicle would not start. I messaged some bible study friends and one was going to come over and jump my vehicle. While waiting I put the car in neutral and pushed it out of my garage into the driveway. The driveway is on a steep slope. Once in the driveway I tried putting the car into park, it would not go into park. In fact it would only go into drive which did not stop the vehicle from rolling backwards. I tried the emergency brake but it is electrically operated and did not work. The brakes were very hard to hold since the hydraulics were not kicking in, same with the power steering. I am a big strong guy so I wrestled the car to turn it diagonally in the driveway as it rolled backwards, trying to prevent it from going into the street and flying into someone's house or vehicle. Once diagonal in the driveway I threw a padlock under the front tire from the drivers seat with my foot on the brake to prevent it from rolling back. At this point it was barely held but stationary so I got out, chalked the wheels with 2x4's until by bible study friends came over and jumped my car. I did not have my cell phone and no one else was around to help me. I litterally thought I was going to have to just let my car roll down into the street and let it go because I had no other options. I called Subaru of America and they directed me to a youtube video that shows once the battery completely dies, there is a special tool you need in order to get the car in and out of park. But it doesn't tell you that if the car won't start and there is enough power to get it into reverse, don't do it without the tool. What if this happened in the mountains or san francisco or any hilly or mountainous location? I believe this is a high potential for life threating injury or loss of property. E-brakes should not be electric in my opinion.

Battery keeps draining even after being replaced key sensor also always goes off that key is not in car when driving.