general problems of the 2020 Toyota RAV4 - part 2

Got an engine maintenance required alert, took to Toyota and they advised the coolant bypass valve needs to be replaced at just 38,000 miles. Googled this and found out many 2020 Rav4 with the same issue at just under 40,000 miles. Also a common issue is the voltage being low and we already had to get the battery replaced once and still get alerts of it being low after replacement. Have to pay today $765 for the coolant bypass to be replaced, will have the receipt later in the day.

2020 Toyota Rav4 xle purchased July of 2020. Just hit 35k miles and an "engine maintenance required" message appeared. The error message would not go away while driving and blocked the entire display screen. There is an issue with the engine coolant bypass valve that costs $700-$1000 to repair. The part and repairs are not covered by the 60,000 power terrain warranty.

I have a 2020 Rav4 Toyota with 60,000 miles. . I have replaced the car battery 3 times now Toyota has no clue why. The 2nd battery only lasted 8 months and it was a name brand battery (die hard). . The engine problem started with a warning light that I could not turn off. . I took my car to Toyota and they told me right off (without checking) it was because of a coolant bypass value, the Toyota service lady said it was her 5th Rav4 this week with the same problem. I checked on line and was surprised how many Rav4 customers were complaining about the same issue so I reported it to you. . Toyota is charging me $900 to replace.

Coolant bypass valve failure my car has less than 50k dealerships informed me that they fix around 10 a month for that part there is a defect regarding this pump.

Power steering light is on and possibly due to water penetration from recent heavy rainfall.

High voltage warning and low power to steering reading on the dashboard. Service engine warning!.

On or about 8/21/23, we were driving from vermont back to our home in new jersey when the sound system started malfunctioning. First, we lost all sound (safety warnings, as well as radio). The sound returned and then cut out again repeatedly. Then, the speakers emitted loud (full volume) static and popping sounds despite the audio system being "off. " at the time, we were driving at approximately 65 mph on a highway with our two young children. The noise was so loud that it was difficult to focus on driving. The static and popping sounds continued until we pulled over and shut the car off. These failures have continued and increased in frequency since that time. Our safety was put at risk in two ways: 1) all of the safety warnings were and are muted and ineffective and 2) a full-volume static/popping sound while driving at highway speeds could have caused an accident. Subsequently, we did the following: -googled the issue and found a relevant technical service bulletin published by Toyota in September 2020 that applies to our make/model and VIN. It is labeled t-sb-0086-20 and can be found here: https://static. Nhtsa. Gov/odi/tsbs/2020/mc-10181786-9999. Pdf. This suggests the issue applies to multiple Toyotas. The bulletin indicates the VIN number where the issued stopped -- suggesting Toyota took steps to fix it. There has been no recall related to this issue and we were never notified of this issue. The issue is apparently related to a defective amplifier. -brought our vehicle to our local Toyota service center (paul miller Toyota of west caldwell NJ). An employee there was able to reproduce and confirm the issue and recommended replacing the amplifier. -called Toyota to report the problem and register a complaint given the safety issues, failure to notify us of the problem even though it was known to Toyota, and the cost of repair ($2640). There were no warnings, messages, or other symptoms of the problem prior to the failure on or about 8/21/23.

I was driving and out of nowhere this warning came on engine maintenance required, and this now a normal maintenance required that means an oil change. The problem with this warning is the coolant bypass valve, and I’m not the only one with this issue, my car has only 32100 miles only, this a ridiculous for a new car. Plus it seem that this issue only comes on with tha a/c on.

Car has 26k miles on it (3 year 2 months old). A light appears saying emergency engine maintenance is required. After research as this error is not in manual, found out it was a failed coolant bypass valve and this was a common failure/faulty equipment but we are being asked to pay full price to repair. A simple internet search shows 100's of consumers with same issue in same model and low miles.

2020 Toyota Rav4, just around 25k miles, took to dealership to get regular maintenance service, (oil change, tire rotation). After a couple days, "engine maintenance required" message pops up. Plugged in code reader and brings up code "p268115" for "engine coolant bypass valve circuit short to battery or open". This issue is popping up for many recent year Toyota models (rav4, camry, corolla) and is not being repaired by Toyota for free. They are charging $600 - $1000 to repair faulty part that is not the owner's fault and issue needs to be recalled.

Despite the upkeep of maintenance the light warning light won’t go off. I follow Rav4 groups this is a common problem.

There is a recall for the roof rails leaking water which can damage the air bags and electrical components. They will not fix the roof with new gaskets unless you actually see the water coming in. My concern is that it is leaking and I'm just not seeing it because the 110 degree weather. I do not want to be in an accident with my wife and kids in the car and have the air bags not work. They should fix the gaskets before it leaks and leads to further potential damage or even life threatening results(air bags being wet and not deploying). They will not fix my roof until it actually starts leaking even tho there is a recall in place. This is ridiculous.

I bought my car brand new in August 2020. In September 2021, my car died, I couldn’t get it on at all, even to turn off the automatic emergency brake. No lights were left on, no doors ajar. Toyota came and jumped it so I could drop it off at the dealership. They ran tests and found no issues. Fast forward to March 2023, my car died again in the driveway. No lights left on, no doors ajar. It seems unreasonable that a brand new car would die twice in less than 3 years. Replaced the battery after the second time it died. How long until it happens again? I’ve read that there seems to be a battery issue with the 2020 rav 4. Will there be a fix? I no longer feel confident in my car.

Error code p1c80-49 because of Toyota terrible manufacturing defect.

The contact owns a 2020 Toyota Rav4. The contact stated that the vehicle failed to start after several attempts. There was no warning light illuminated. Due to the failure, the vehicle was towed to a dealer where the battery was replaced. After the battery was replaced, the "battery charging" message would display on the instrument panel. The contact stated that the battery had been replaced several times due to the failure. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 12,000.

The original battery completely drains when the car is off and no electrical equipment is kept on. This has happened on at least four occasions and car is unable to be turned on or even jumped with another car. The dealer (Toyota umansky - charlottesville, va) has been unable to fix the problem and it it reoccurs. Based on my reading of this issue in similar models of the 2020 rav 4 hybrid, the "parasitic battery" can cause other electric malfunctions that would affect safety. Also, the description of this defect is substantially similar to the problems I face with my vehicle. I would like to add my model/ VIN to the known batch of defective models with this problem.

The battery in my hybrid rav 4 repeatedly goes dead if I don't drive the vehicle for 2 days. I reported the issue to my dealership and they charged the battery but it didn't fix the problem. The next time I brought it in for the same issue they did a software update they said would fix it. However, I have had the same problem once more and they again claim it's just a software update to fix, even though there have been no technology changes to my vehicle since they last "fixed it". In consequence, my vehicle will not start reliably which has left my husband stranded after work on a cold January day, and left me stranded at home from getting to work two additional times. Every time I bring it to the dealership they dismiss the problem but none of their attempts have resolved the issue.

The carplay disconnects constantly during every drive. It’s is extremely dangerous because when my directions are being displayed the navigation cuts out, and you have to fiddle with your phone to attempt to reestablish the connection.

2020 Rav4 hybrid. Vehicle doesn't start; requires a jump, which is inconvenient or unsafe, depending on where it happens. Intermittent occurrence, ~ 3 times/year. Toyota checked 12v battery, pronounced ok, of course the car was driven to the shop for the check, so was operating at the time. I've checked the battery when the car wouldn't start and found it to be a little low (11. 5v) but by no means fully discharged. Not associated with leaving components on (we are careful to turn everything off) or weather; the vehicle is garaged in the winter. I turned off the "bluetooth" system which we never used and haven't had this issue over the past year. Suspect that the "bluetooth" system was operating even when the vehicle was off?.

When car is subject to rain or car washed, the headliner gets saturated at the "a" pillar and the "c" pillar. This water seems to be coming from under the roof rails. I have tested sunroof drain and they are open leaving the only other area to leak at the insertion of the roof rails. I have never had anything attached to them to add excess weight but have also hearing and finding many other reports of this happening. My concern is having the headliner ruined and malfunction of the airbags. This has been reported to my Toyota dealer twice and I have been told that they are unaware of any issues with the seals on the roof rails.

The infotainment system stopped working after the car was 2 years and 3 months old. The screen flashes on and off and the screen is not responsive. The dealership disconnected the battery to do a hard reset and this did not help the issue. Also they were not able to update the software and said the radio/infotainment system which controls my radio, bluetooth, navigation, and apple car play would need to be replaced all together for $1700. I have kept up with my maintenance schedule in general and have not had or done anything to have the radio/infotainment system to completely stop working. This is also distracting when driving having the screen flash on and off, especially at night.

On September 16, 2022, I discovered the vehicle battery died. I charged the battery through a jump start. The car worked normally, except the radio and infotainment system failed to work, constantly rebooting in an endless cycle while the car was powered on. On September 29, 2022, I brought the car for service at star Toyota of bayside, new york, to diagnose the issue. On September 30, 2022, the service advisor told me that the entire infotainment system had to be replaced at a cost of about $1,400. 00. The car is out of warranty apparently due to its mileage even though it is from 2020. The fact that a simple, common issue such as a dead batter caused this catastrophic damage to the infotainment system is totally, absolutely unacceptable. I now question the electrical integrity of these cars and I hope that NHTSA will undertake an investigation. I also seek full reimbursement from Toyota for all costs associated with this repair. I have video of the system rebooting. The file is too large to upload to this website with its 10mb file size limit. I'd be happy to provide it by other means. Thank you for your consideration.

The electrical system has issues while driving at 25 mph the interior lights began flash on and off ( 10 pm and dark outside) rapidly and randomly the instrument cluster flashed the door open screen and indicated the rear hatch was open and rear hatch made at least ten attempts to open in the span of just one block switches on the dash did not respond key fob buttons did not respond I returned the one block I had traveled and parked the vehicle shut it off and restarted and the hatch had to be manually closed shut off the vehicle locked it let it sit for ten minutes walked out of the house to the vehicle and without even touching the key fob the rear hatch opened the lights flashed several time not the standard twice and the hatch proceeded to half open close and open again three times with not input from me or the key fob this is the fourth or fifth issue that has arisen with the electrical system since we purchased the vehicle and no one can find the issues origins or solutions prior to this the electrical system issues were only minor nuisances this was completely unsafe and is what has precipitated this filing.

Dash lights went out and windows stopped working (incident date is for dash lights). Clocks are often blank. Clearly there is an electrical/wiring issue. I have complained about it to the dealer at the 5k check, 10k check and the 15k check. At the 15k check they reset the radio! also when turning right it feels like the front wheel is curling under the vehicle and makes a terrible sound (but not always). I made dealer aware of this at the 5k check, 10k check and 15k check. My warranty will be up soon so they just keep riding the clock out.

This is a known issue. Coolant bypass valve issue error on value says "engine maintenance required, visit your dealer. " we have been waiting on the recall at 27,000 miles (brand new purchased). We are at 50,000 miles now and still no resolution and the error stays.

This is regard to 2020 Rav4 xle with 7,000 mileage battery dead issues twice due to software issue based on Toyota dealership reports. I do drive my car daily and car not sat in garage more than 2 days! on evening of July 24th I wan’t able to turn on the vehicle. It was totally dead. Had to request road assistance for jump then took the car to Toyota sunnyvale for check. They mentioned the issue was the battery and then having hard time with them to replace it with a new one. They assured and confirmed with me couple of times on the phone and at the service center this issue will never ever happen again. I was told it was a software issue that was consuming the battery and company fixed the software and they updated on my car and it won’t happen again for sure. Morning of November 16th while was heading to work same story repeated again. Faced with a totally dead vehicle, called again for road assistance for a jump and car is now sitting at Toyota sunnyvale service center for analysis. I cannot trust to Toyota service centers any more and now I cannot relay on my vehicle. I look forward for a reasonable response from Toyota motor corporation. Why customer has to face with dead battery, ask roadside assistance and visit the dealership to identify the problem? what if I was out of town or in situations that cannot get roadside assistance? why if this software issue it was not software recall and customers was not informed? why this issue happened twice? what guarantees this will never happen again?.

On 8/25/21, Toyota rav 4 vehicle was parked in garage and caught fire burning down garage and house, minor injuries to occupants in house. Vehicle had recently 7/01/21 been repaired at dealership for battery discharge when parked by installation of new update to dcm software according to TSB-0095-20 rev2. The vehicle has been inspected by police, hidalgo county, texas fire marshall and progressive insurance company progressive. Origin of fire started in vehicle but cause of vehicle fire undetermined by fire marshall, insurance company related fire to charger plugged into dash of vehicle.

Car sat for 4 days while we here hiking. Battery went dead. We were 15 miles up a gravel road and thankfully someone came by who had jumper cables. Reported issue to Toyota today and will take to dealer. Apparently, Toyota has no current fix for the battery drain when vehicle is off. Searched online and found 100s of reports of this same issue from 2019, 2020 Rav4 owners, both hybrid and non-hybrid.

Went to start car and received warning that Smart key was not working unable to turn on car followed instructions in manual car would not turn on and all power lost unable to open doors called aaa and technician stated front battery was drained no power and that battery bad took to dealer who stated it was computer problem that caused battery to be drained this is a safety issue as this appears to be a recurring problem should not be occurring in new car.

2020 hybrid Toyota Rav4 would not turn on, indicating "Smart key system malfunction" - has less than 7,000 miles on it, is driven daily, and no lights or other electrical components were left on in the vehicle between the last time it was driven and when it failed to start. Toyota roadside assistance was able to jump the 12v battery and get it started, but warned that it is not a long-term fix.

My computer car shows these messages: 1. Pre-collision system: a malfunction in the system has been detected. Do not relay on this system. 2. Vehicle stability control system: a malfunction in the vsc, trac, or hill-start assist control system has been detected. Do not relay on these systems. I ask to another costumer who have the similar car and he said he has the same messages. My Toyota dealer could not detected in all the pm. . !!!.

Toyota has a service builtin on a dcm firmware update that fixes an issue with remote start and will kill the 12v battery even but refuses to notify owners or even state publicly if they installed this during their inspection on my car. Have been into the dealership multiple times and had at least one battery replaced in a 1 year old car. . Read more...

The contact owns a 2020 Toyota Rav4. The contact stated that while driving 45 mph with the cruise control activated and while coming to a red light the driver pressed the brake pedal and the braking system malfunctioned causing the vehicle to not stop. The vehicle drove through a red light causing a collision with a second vehicle. During the crash the driver sustained rib and torso injuries, the front passenger sustained injured ribs and fractured tailbone and the rear passenger side occupant sustained a fracture tailbone. No further information was available regarding the second vehicle. During the crash the vehicle was destroyed. A police report was taken at the scene and the vehicle was towed away. The contact indicated that prior to the incident the vehicle had been examined at the dealer for a possible braking problem but no trouble was found. The manufacturer and local dealer was notified of the incident. In addition the contact indicated that the backup camera audible alarm was inoperable. The failure mileage was 9,000.

Got in the car and it wouldn't crank. Seemed like a dead battery although nothing was left on. Put jumper cables on it and it would not even jump off. It would act like it was going to turn over then would make a clicking noise. Car is not even a year old with 10,000 miles.

In the sring of this year, I lightly drove through a water filled pothole in a parking lot when all of the displays went dark for a split second and then came back on like the car had just started. I called my dealership right away and was told that maybe some water had gotten into some wiring and caused the glitch but to call again ASAP if it happened again. On Dec 9, 2021 under dry and even surfaces while making a left turn the vehicle went dark again while driving but this time took a touch longer to re-engage. I called the dealership again to report this to be looked at during a maintenance appointment. They found nothing wrong, but suggested it was a feature the car does not have was turned on and they turned it off. I was then shown the button responsible for this . . . It was for automatic high beams, not some engine efficency button. On Sunday, 12 12 2021 I went to start the car to go to work and it was completely dead, just a small clicking sound to be heard within the cabin. I had to get the car jumped to get it started on the second turn of the key after I removed it from the first attempt. I drove it to the dealership that day and I am still waiting for results. This needs to be adressed ASAP because its a potentially dangerous if not deadly situation if it conks out at highway speeds in front of a semi.