Alternator/generator/regulator Problems of Ford Focus - part 2

I have a 2003 Ford Focus zx3 at 37000 miles the alternator and battery went bad and had to be replaced at a cost of $700. 00. Now at 67000 miles they have both gone bad again and must be replaced at a new cost of $800. 00. Additionally I had a 2000 Ford Focus and at 55000 miles both the alternator and battery had to be replaced. Also we have a 2006 Ford Focus and at 16000 miles it needed both an alternator and battery. It is worth noting that the car was three years old and out of warranty when the failure occurred, it is a very low mileage car, and is only drive 10 miles a day. We really like the Focus as it is a great value and a fun car to drive but after having to replace 4 alternators in 18 months we are rethinking our love of this little car. I will be filing complaints for my other two foci as well.

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Ford Focus 2007, 42,000 miles. Lights went off and car stopped ( no power at all), dead) in the middle of urban intersection with heavy traffic. It was sat. Evening and caused shock and inconveniences to driver who missed important appointment. It is a safety issue although this time an accident/crash was avoided. Car was towed to dealer for service. Dealer replaced alternator and battery, disregarding warranty. Dealer wants to charge $683. 00. A recall has to be filed because of the many complaints against Ford Focus 2007 for the same problem. I.

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Having problem with alternator and keys stuck in the ignition for 2nd time in two years. Key will not release but will turn.

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Driving at 50km/h, abs and brake lights come on, shortly after all electrical systems shut down, including power steering, front lights, gauges. . . Everything. Engines continues to run, when the vehicle slow to almost idle, engines stops. Unable to restart, no ignition no sign of life whatsoever. Waited 20min, was able to start engine, electrical came back and drove for 5min before same thing happened. Dealer identified a faulty alternator, car has 135000km.

I own a 2007 Ford Focus with 45k miles on it. Around 42k miles I begin to experience problems with my car when I need to accelerate quickly such as merging onto an interstate highway. The car would begin to accelerate but once it reached 3rd gear the car would jerk and start revving very loud but be stuck and would not accelerate. Initially it was occasional and would not be very bad to overcome, simply release the gas pedal for a while then it'd fix itself. But it has gotten progressively worse to the point where I cannot get the car over 30 mph due to this issue no matter how slowly or fast I accelerate. The car will rev very loud usually at 3k+ rpm, but will not accelerate. I have to pull off the road whenever I can; turn the car off and try again. It turns out it is an issue with the alternator of this car particularly the 2007 model. I researched it and many other people who own the same make/model/year car are encountering this problem as well. And have been given a hard time by the dealers when it came to getting answers and help. Its become obvious that this must be a defect with this car. And it need to be addressed formally.

Have had complete electrical failure 3 times with my car first time was at 12,500 miles, 2nd. 61 miles later and last week with 20,500 miles. Each time dealership told me that my alternator had gone bad. Wayne akers Ford, lake worth, FL put in the first two replacement alternators and car is now at an independent mechanic for a second opinion.

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Purchased the car new, have had to have alternator and battery replaced 3 times now. Every time it goes out without warning and in most cases on the highway or in heavy city traffic. I almost couldn't stop nor steer the car safely away from the road. Each occurrence has cost me 500. 00 usd from towing, parts, and labor.

Alternator went out on way home from missouri to norman, ok. Replaced it in joplin, mo. Alternator went out again 7/17/12 on my way home from mo. Took it to Ford dealership in norman, ok and got it replaced on 7/25. Cost over $500. Battery light started coming on again 8/3 and I took it back in. Ford dealershio stated they couldn't find an alternator within 3 hour drive and would call me when they got one. The guy at Ford indicated maybe there was a problem with them since he couldn't find one. Got it replaced again 8/7/12.

The alternator and battery on my 2007 Ford Focus se that has 27,783 miles are dead. I take the car to the dealer for regularly scheduled maintained on time. Brought the car in today for oil change and 30,000 mile required inspection and maintained. I drove the car about 40 miles round-trip and stopped at the library. I tried starting the car and it would not turn on. All that happened was the oil light went on but the car made no sounds and engine was not even trying to turn over. Had car towed back to dealer and after an hour was told that the alternator and battery were both dead. There was no warning that this could occur form the dealer and the car acted perfectly fine. The only reason I knew anything was wrong was because the car wouldn't start. The night manager at the Ford dealer said that due to the alternator failing the car ran on 12volts of power from the battery and now the battery is dead and cannot be recharged. He also said that yes, the alternator does go out without any warning and that it is common to not know it had died until the car completely stops working. The car warranty expired 3 months ago in April and the dealer expects $645 to repair the issue. I feel this is a manufacturing issue that should be fixed by Ford. I have done research tonight, and learned that it is common for Ford Focus car to have the alternator and battery die at about 3 years of age. I was driving during rush hour on several expressways today, had the alternator died 10 minutes sooner, I could have been dead or seriously injured in a car crash. 1. No warning before alternator and battery died. Car was parked and would not turn on. Car was at dealer today for 30,000 oil change/ maintenance car has less than 28,000 miles. 2. This is the first time the alternator or battery has died. 3. Dealer said the car needs new alternator and battery. Would not offer any discount for repair.

The contact owns a 2002 Ford Focus. The contact stated the battery warning light and the entire dashboard lighting began to abnormally flicker on and off. The alternator warning light also illuminated and the vehicle then stalled. The contact believed there to be a short in the system but the vehicle was not taken in for diagnostic testing. The vehicle was not repaired. The failure and current mileages were 66,939.

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My cars battery was not working, as told by a triple a mechanic. I took my car to the repair shop to get it replaced and they said that the battery was working fine, the alternator was bad. They said the car wouldn't go out of the shop if it wasn't fixed. So I paid them $416 to get the alternator fixed. After I got the car back within a day, it stopped working again. The same problem and the car would not start, while I was driving home they messed up my meters, the lights wouldn't turn on and the car wouldn't start, not only did they charge me wrongfully there was no alternator problem, the battery was bad. I called them and they wouldn't answer me properly, they said that it wasn't their fault and I should replace the battery myself. They hung up the phone. This company is a fraud, they lie and wont answer my calls. My car is messed up, they changed all the wires the lights wont work, the gauges don't work. I called the sheriff and they said I should take them to court, they also replaced my tired and they used different tires. Im extremely mad and I need help.

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Step-daughters took a loan for the low mileage economy car to commute to college and part-time job. Starting having problems with the battery. Replaced it. Wife tried to take it to the market at dusk while her daughter was away just to keep the car from sitting. Four miles down the two lane the electrics started failing. Car died and would not crank. She was able to coast part way onto a side road. As it got dark she sat and waited exposed to traffic on a 50 mph road with no shoulders on a curve. Luckily she was out of the cell phone dead spot. I blocked the side road with my truck so I could hook up cables. Started car. Checked with meter. Only battery voltage. Sat for 15 minutes with cables connected to charge up the battery. Sent wife home in the dark running flashers and hoped for no deer crossing. Pulled alternator which is just about as hard to get out is it could be able to be ( I work on equipment for a living). Took alternator to test machine. It failed. Rebuilt alternator is over $200 and I would rather not put a rebuilt in a low mileage late model, especially since its so hard to get in and out. Then again maybe they are finding the fault during the rebuild and upgrading the failed component. Ford and the others build cars with components that they purchase. Sometimes there is a problem with a batch of components. In order to maintain their reputation and be able to represent that they are doing everything they can to protect the customer they issue a letter and fix the problem. If there are 20 people who took the time to complain here there are hundreds more and enough of these have happened under warranty that Ford is fully aware of the problem. The best of the big three is not living up to its standing in this case and that this is happening in a low end car brings up recollections of the exploding pintos. Probably not a lot of folks with access to expensive legal assistance driving the Focus.

About 4 days before the incident, I noticed my battery light flickering, I wasn't too worried about it because it would not stay on, I thought it was probably the battery and I would replace it the following week, well it did not last a week! the reason I would classify this as a safety problem is: because of the alternator failing and not charging the battery, my 2007 Ford Focus just stalled on a freeway going through cleveland ohio. Not only did I lose engine power, every thing electrical shut down turn signals, brake lights, horn, etc. Trying to navigate across 3 or 4 lanes of traffic is a dangerous situation, and depending on location of this type of failure or if it happened at night or early morning hours a different kind of dangerous situation could occur! I had to be towed to Ford dealership on a Saturday, but their service dept was closed until today Monday, they called to inform me of cost of repair (over $400) when I pick up car I will make sure I get the old alternator.

Battery light goes off and on. Then radio goes out, with low battery reading across the radio. Then lights start to dim. All meters stop working on the dash and then the car jerks while driving and dies as it was pulled to the side of the road. Replaced battery assuming since this was the dash warning. As soon as I pull off with the new battery, the battery light goes on and off again. Had to get car towed and after diagnostic testing it shows the alternator is bad. Read many reviews of the same thing happening. The car is only 3 years old, but over the warranty as far as mileage is concerned. Had previous cars with many more miles than the Focus has with 56000 and had no problems with the alternator.

There appears to be a problem with the alternator on the 2007 Ford Focus. Searching online, I have found numerous complaints regarding the alternator failing on this vehicle, causing a failure of the electrical system (lights, turn signals, brake lights, speedometer, etc. ), often while driving. This happened to me last night while I was driving. First, my battery light came on, then my abs warning light, then my brake warning light, and then the electrical system died.

The contact owns a 2002 Ford Focus. While driving at speeds of 30 mph, the vehicle would not shift gears. The vehicle felt as if it was attempting to stall. In addition, the check engine light illuminated on the instrument panel. The dealer was contacted and advised there was nothing wrong with the vehicle. The vehicle was diagnosed by a second mechanic who advised replacing the alternator. The alternator was previously replaced a total of 3 times. There were no additional repairs made to the vehicle. The failure mileage was 50,000 and current mileage was 83,000. Updated 8/9/10 updated 08/11/10.

I was going do the interstate in my Ford Focus zx3 when all of the sudden I lose all power, im in the middle lane surrounded by 18 wheelers and other cars, and they have to swerve to avoid my car because the alternator went out! this car is terrible!.

2007 Ford Focus, 40k miles: events leading up to the failure: within minutes of a text message flashed across my radio monitor, "low battery", all gauges (gas, speed, engine temp) fell to 0. This happened while traveling at the speed limit (70mph) on interstate 75 north of sarasota, florida. Reducing speed to exit interstate engine seized and bolted. Singular failure. Alternator replaced and new battery purchased. Old part of new car purchase in March, 2008; left with repair shop.

While driving car, lost power, eventually lost all power. No indication present (red batt indicator never came on) Ford service manager says this is normal for Ford cars of all makes, trucks seem to work better. Cause was alternator putting out 0 charge to battery. Also, Ford service manager revealed alternators are expected to last only 3-5 years, due to heat build up and no cooling provision for alternator. This is an unsatisfactory safety issue on both counts. Ford should be required to make battery warning work reliably in all cars, and provision/design change to enable alternators to cool themselves and last to normal eol (5 yrs/100k miles). Loss of power unexpectedly risks passenger and drivers safety as I had no external indicators, blinkers or brake lights available at 60 mph on highway.

2007 Ford Focus loses all power, lights, signals, speedometer etc, while driving. Make it to dealership at great risk with no brake lights, turn signals etc. Told alternator is bad, dealer to replace under extended warranty. Ford has a really bad design issue here, as it also happened with my 2003 Focus, but was misdiagnosed and that car is now unable to run more than a couple months without replacement.

The contact owns a 2007 Ford Focus. When driving he hears a grinding noise coming from the front-end of the vehicle. The vehicle was taken to dealer the multiple times and the alternator was replaced twice an an expense of $500. 00 for each repair. The repairs have not remedied the failure, because the problem has resurfaced. He was in the process of having the same component replaced again. The failure mileage was 90,000 the current mileage was 120,000.

The contact owns a 2007 Ford Focus. The contact stated the vehicle has 40,000 miles and the alternator has failed. The vehicle has shut off on four occasions and continuously failed to hold a charge. The dealer informed the contact that the repair cost will not be paid per the warranty since it expired at 36,000 miles. The failure mileage was 40,000.

I have a 2000 Ford Focus zx3 and while I am driving down the highway my transmission will rev all the gauges in the car will go up and down and my headlights flash. I have taken it to a Ford dealership they say they fix the problem and as I pull away the same thing happens. So why is it that Ford the people that make my car can't even tell me what's wrong with it. So having taken my car to four different places and the problem keeps happening, nobody seems to know how to fix it, I guess I will have to get another car (it will not be a Ford). This is really great timing with the economy and all. I mean I put a new alternator on, a new battery, I had the ground wires cleaned, a new ignition switch put on. Oh yeah it always smells like something is burning under my hood (like when you blow a candle out). It's pretty bad when you're driving on the highway and basically your car dies,somebody could smash into you causing a pile-up. I am afraid to drive my car who knows what will happen next. I just think if you make a product you should know how to correct the problems so you have a safe vehicle.

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I have two issues with my Ford Focus (2004) first, I ran into a problem with the ignition switch and it will not turn. I left the key in for a couple of months when this initially happened but, it wore out my alternator and I had to have it replaced. I removed the key once the new alternator was installed. I had some minor success with inserting the key and had to bang on it with my hand to get it to turn. This worked successfully for 2 weeks. The ignition switch is now frozen. I am back to square one. Secondly, the trunk latch doesn't close properly and I have to use my remote to reopen the mechanism in order to get it to close. Very aggravating. I will not purchase another Ford if these issues are not recalled.

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Alternator suddenly failed while driving. I had no control of the car while in traffic including the steering. The alternator was replaced. Approximately 3 years later on July 2, 2012, the same thing happened. Sudden alternator failure while driving with no ability to control the vehicle. Because the electrical system had a total failure I could not steer the vehicle, turn on the hazard flashers, or signal the traffic behind me that I was slowing down because the brake lights could not function. Terribly dangerous. On July 6, 2013, alternator #3 failed and burned out the battery as well. Ford motor company apologized for the inconvenience and said it was my problem because it was out of warranty and there was no recall. Inconvenience? that takes the cake. I don't know why there is not a recall on this defect and it is clearly a safety issue. Sudden electrical failure on a highway at high speed with no way to steer the car or warn other drivers merits a recall. The web is awash with complaints about sudden and repeated failure of the electrical system in the 2007 Ford Focus.

While driving my 2001 Ford Focus back in November of 2008', I experienced the engine stalling while driving on the freeway. The headlights started to flicker along with the dashlights going haywire. I then drove the vehicle home and had it towed to my auto repair facility. They found nothing wrong and could not do what I described to them. Approx. 1 week later it did the same thing again, this time the check engine light stayed on, and they were able to receive some diagnostic codes. They cleaned some ground wires but stated that was all they could find, the same thing happened a few days later, I called my mechanic, and we both agreed that I should send it to the Ford dealer. I had it towed again, this time to the Ford dealer where I stated that the problem only occurs while it is being driven. After approx. 1 week, the dealer stated they were unable to duplicate the problem, but they advised me that the alternator dropped to 11. 5 volts. I advised them to replace with a new alternator. They advised me that they were sure that is what the problem was. On or about 1/2/09, I experienced they same electrical problems that I have been having over the last 2 months. I drove it to the dealership immediately and advise them I was having the same problem and that it was not the $ 550. 00 alternator that I paid for. I again reiterated to them that it has to be driven, to have the symptoms occur. Since I had the new alternator installed I only put on 325 miles. My service manager kory foster with gosch Ford in hemet, CA has only called me twice since 1/2/09. When he calls he has always stated that he cannot find anything and he does not no what the problem is he has not heard of this type of problem with the Ford Focus. I have told him everytime I have seen him and when he calls to drive it ! it is the only way to get it to stall out. The last time he called me which was last week sometime, that I could come get my car if I needed it. I advised him to keep it until it is fixed.

My battery light came on in the middle of this past week on my way to work. . . Then on Friday afternoon, my mother-in-law and I decided to go to asheville, nc. . . We got as far as waynesville, and my car quit. . . (about 80,000 miles on my car). . . I was able to roll it off and pop the clutch and get it to start. . . I drove about 5 miles, and it quit again. . . This time, I could not get it started again. . . Had to call a tow truck. . . Had my car towed to andy shaw Ford in sylva, nc, the town closest to where I live. . . They checked out my car and said that it was the alternator. . . They also told me that in cold and hot weather, the alternators will go out. . . My husband has a 1998 Toyota tacoma, with 240,000 miles on it and he has never had to replace the alternator in his truck. . . I have had three other new cars, the first one bought in 1986, Ford festiva. . . It had 149,000 o so on it when it quit. . . . Never had to replace the alternator. . . The next one I bought was a 1995 Toyota tercel, hit a deer with about 149,000 on the car. . . Never had to replace the alternator in this car. . . The next one I bought was a 2000 kia rio. . . Totaled it out when someone hit me in 2005. . . The car had about 140,000 on it then. . . Never had to ever replace the alternator in that car. . . So, why did the alternator go out on the Ford Focus?.

The fuse for the running lamps kept blowing. A few days later I smelt a burning smell, pulled over, turned off the car, removed key, but car was still running. A few days later, battery light kept flashing, turns out, the alternator was fried. Took it to Ford, was told there was nothing they could do because my powertrain warranty does not cover electrical work. Took it to an electrician, was told a few wires touched metal and fused together and burnt all the way back to the firewall. When you look at the wires, there is metal sitting under them. . . . There are no clips to help hold the wires away from the metal. There is some form of protection on the wires, I describe it as a foam. . . But its worn through. When I asked him how this could have happened, he replied with "going over bumps, railroad tracks, or hitting a pothole. He also told me it was a fire hazard. As a consequence to this, my car is now just sitting, and I will not drive it with it being labeled a fire hazard. Nothing was done to correct the failure.

The contact owns a 2005 Ford Focus. While driving approximately 35 mph, the vehicle stalled and the contact pulled off the road. A nearby mechanic inspected the vehicle and discovered corrosion around the battery cables. He jumped the vehicle and drove to his residence. The following day, a local mechanic diagnosed the vehicle and stated that the alternator was overcharging the battery in the vehicle. When the mechanic called to order the part, he was informed that this was the fourth complaint regarding this particular component in the last four weeks. The driver has not notified the manufacturer. The vehicle was repaired on July 17, 2008 by a local mechanic. The failure mileage was 20,814 and current mileage was 20,862. Updated 09/16/08. Updated 09/17/08.

I bought this car in jul07. In dec07 started having problems with car surging/jolting while driving on highway (55-65 mph) then car would just stall, completely die. Engine light would come on, no power steering no lights. I would manage to get it over to the side of the road narrowly avoiding accident and car would not start. After sat for about 10 mins it would start. It would drive ok for about 10-20 miles and then surge and die. It happens periodically and in between the car may drive fine for weeks. Service center can't find anything wrong with it. It just happened again 3-18-08 while I was driving on interstate at 65mph, jolted twice and completely died. I was nearly killed as a semi was behind me and another beside me. I had to fight the car to get it off the side of the road and narrowly missed the semi running up over the top of me. After sitting for 10 min it started again but would not reach full power. I could only get it up to about 50 mph, then started jolting and died again after about 6 miles this continued for 30 miles. Engine light was on. I had that read by adv auto later and it was two codes one for mass airflow sensor. It has been in service garage since then. They can't find anything wrong with it. I did notice that this seems to only be happening when it rains. They sprayed water today on the front of the car while it was running and it died in their shop. They still have no idea what is wrong with it. It also has a loud vibration/noise in front end. Motor mounts have been changed, new alternator, new battery, new belt replaced Dec 27,07. The vehicle died again Feb 5, 2008 6 times. It dies at all speeds and sometimes stalls at stop lights/signs. I am extremely frustrated with it and need a reliable car to get to work and am making car payments on a car that has been in the shop 36 days in the last 90. Also very concerned about causing an accident or killing myself, my kids or someone else.

The weekend of July 28th I had family in town. We were doing the attractions. The car started everytime we were going or leaving anywhere. Went to go home and the car wouldn't start. We had the battery jumped and it wouldn't hold a charge. Purchased a new battery and made it home. The next day replaced the alternator. Car ran fine for 1 week. Went to leave work on the 6th of August and it wouldn't start at all. The battery was completely dead. Took the car to have the new battery and alternator tested. Nothing wrong w/either one. Took the car to Ford dealership they spent 1 1/2 hours on it and said they couldn't find the problem. Something is pulling on my battery causing it to die. Took it back home and now it maybe the computer. Have 110,000 miles on it. I wouldn't think this would start happening already.

I purchased this vehicle new in 2005. Within the first year and a half I started noticing that the dash lights would illuminate when the vehicle was parked, no keys in the ignition. The abs and battery light would flicker on and off accompanied by a buzzing sound. The wireless remotes stopped working as well. I brought the vehicle to Ford as it was still within the three year/36,000 mile warranty period. They said that they could not duplicate the problem. They re-programmed the wireless remotes. After this the problem continued with the flickering lights and buzzing sound and also the wireless remotes stopped working. I returned the vehicle to Ford and they told me that the dash lights were malfunctioning and they would have to open up the dash, they quoted me $700 just to open up and diagnose plus the labor charges for whatever the problem was. This was right after the the year/36,000 mile warranty period was over. I mentioned that I had been to the dealership for the very same reason when the vehicle was under warranty but they could not find the problem. Ford said that the vehicle was no longer under warranty. Ford did not fix this issue and also said that the wireless remotes could not be reprogrammed. In the years since the initial problem, I have had to put in two new alternators. The dash lights flicker almost continuously. The dash display (speedometer, odometer, etc. ) has completely cut out while driving the vehicle several time. The vehicle still operates but loses power when the dash cuts out. When the dash display cuts out you are driving without a gas gauge, speedometer, etc. When the dash lights come back on, there is a "hiccup" or power surge accompanied by the same buzzing sound that occurs when the dash lights are flickering when the vehicle is parked.

Several parts failures, including alternator, brakes, muffler,transmission, and ignition lock cylinder.

The contact stated while driving 20-25 mph on a major roadway, the vehicle began to jerk as if it were going to stall. The accelerator pedal was depressed causing the vehicle to travel through an intersection however it eventually completely stalled. The vehicle would not restart and all the lights on the dashboard were completely darkened. A new battery was installed by the contact and the vehicle driven home. About four hours later, the vehicle began to jerk again and stalled. The vehicle stalled four times throughout the day. When this occurred with the vehicle about a year ago, the vehicle was taken to a dealer who determined the cable wire was not connected properly. The contact expressed that the cable wire may not be the problem and will check to see if the alternator may be the source of the problem.

This complaint is in response to help another person in electrical complaints. The flicker you have with your 2001 Focus is supposedly a ground issue to the chassis. It appears to have fixed my problem with the instruments and headlights and anything electrical flickering sporadically. The fix is pretty cheap under 20 bucks and you could do it yourself if you are somewhat mechanical. As for my complaint. For a car to be in the top 10 for a few years and a great economy car this is not the car with an answer. I have such replaced 2 alternators under warranty, 3 batteries before I fixed my ground problem. Replaced pvc valve 2 times, radiator, trunk release actuator, numerous headlights and fog lights, radiator and hoses that were busted from overheating, couple of belts, driver door lock, something with the gas tank I think to be a fuel pump. All of this with 30k on the car. Since then I have only replaced tires and rims on the car at 130k I decided to replace any part after warranty with aftermarket gear. So now the car has a cold air intake, svt engine, aem on board computer to adjust with laptop, nitrous, aftermarket hella lights, new paint job, new dash indiglo lights, new stereo speakers, interior. So after all this I guess I should have just bought a Lexus and called it a day. The car now runs great and has not had a single part failure since.