Other Fuel System Problems of Mazda MAZDA3 - part 2

The car just didn't want to turn on with the key and completely stopped.

See all problems of the 2018 Mazda MAZDA3 🔎.

Car suddenly stalled and failed to accelerate while driving with accelerator fully depressed.

See all problems of the 2019 Mazda MAZDA3 🔎.

Mazda motors north american operations (Mazda) is recalling certain model year 2014-2016 Mazda3 vehicles manufactured January 4, 2014, to September 18, 2015. The fuel tank of the affected vehicles may have been improperly handled during manufacturing and, as a result, the welded attachment of the inlet check valve (icv) may fail and allow fuel to leak. Consequence a fuel leak in the presence of an ignition source increases the risk of a fire. This is what I seem to be experiencing please expand recall. . .

See all problems of the 2014 Mazda MAZDA3 🔎.

Front end passages side shaking with 60 mhg. And some time smelling gasoline when first started up my car.

See all problems of the 2016 Mazda MAZDA3 🔎.

According to other people on forums, the issue is inside the fuel tank. A piece of metal in the fuel tank has broken off and it scrapping inside the tank itself. I have no taken my car to a mechanic, yet. But, based on the multiple forums, this is an ongoing issue with Mazdas. You hear it mostly when your driving and come to a stop. Once stopped, you heard the scrapping until the car/fuel stops shifting.

See all problems of the 2010 Mazda MAZDA3 🔎.

Had a gas smell in our garage for months, thought our riding mower or snowblower was the cause but realized it was this car. Took to our mechanic and they said it was the fuel leak issue from NHTSA campaign 16v684000 however this car was manufactured in Dec 2013 and the official recall campaign began with cars manufactured the following month aka Jan 2014. We have been unable to get assistance from the dealership or reach anyone at Mazda due to the huge hold times.

The fuel pump lock ring on my 2009 Mazda Mazdaspeed3 has failed which is causing two engine codes: p0442 and p0455. In addition there is a strong smell of gasoline fumes around the rear of the car after driving and parking. The fuel pump lock ring is a plastic threaded ring which secures and seals the fuel pump and fuel level sender to the fuel tank. Mazda has released a safety recall 5121i for my2009-2011 RX-8 and my2006-2007 Mazdaspeed6 vehicles. Mazda states: "on certain subject RX-8 and Mazdaspeed6 vehicles, improper installation of the fuel pump mounting rings may lead to cracking of the rings, causing fuel leakage. In addition, on certain RX-8 vehicles, the fuel pump mounting rings may deteriorate due to heat exposure from the engine and exhaust pipe due to insufficient heat resistance at the top side of the fuel tank. This may also lead to cracking of the rings, causing fuel leakage. Fuel leakage may result in increased risk of fire in the presence of an ignition source near the vehicle. " the faulty part number for the RX-8 matches that of the Mazdaspeed3. That is Mazda part number: bn8f-42-167 I believe the failure of this part and recall should extend to affected Mazda 3 vehicles, and any other models with the same part. I have opened a case with Mazda corporate. Case number: 14466166445 I have uploaded a video of the smoke test performed by a local shop indicating the leak is coming from the ring: https://photos. App. Goo. Gl/6t6keeadplggzvvaa I have also attached a screenshot of the video, unfortunately the image quality provided by the mechanic is very poor.

See all problems of the 2009 Mazda MAZDA3 🔎.

Gas smell / leak from gas tank when more than 7/8 full. Seems to leak from the top. Aeb frequently says disabled due to high interior car temperature. Even in winter when temperature below freezing.

Gas smell when tank is filled past 3/4.

When I drive down the road. My car speeds up and I don't press on the excilerator any harder. The cars idol goes up and down when driving and at park. This happens on all types of road ways. Sometimes it speeds up on me so fast I have to hit the brake while driving on the road.

See all problems of the 2012 Mazda MAZDA3 🔎.

Jan. 23, 2020. 10:45 am. I was on my street, a narrow residential street, preparing to back in my garage. In order to do that on this narrow street, I touched the lip of the driveway across the street. Speed well under 3 mph. When I did so, my car suddenly sharply accelerated and at the same time swerved to the right. The acceleration and swerve drove the car into the townhouses across the street from my house. The driveways are very short, barely a car's length. After crashing, I could feel the car still accelerating. I quickly switched the car into park and the spontaneous acceleration continued. In order to stop in I had to turn the car off. When the towing company turned the car on later it immediately started to spontaneously accelerate and surge forward again. The Mazda dealer and insurance inspector explained to me that there is a sensor: when a wheel encounters what it perceives to be an obstacle, it �tosses� all the power to that wheel and accelerates. These driveways have a small lip at the edge. This sensor reacted to it in a way that caused my car to crash. The car was totaled and the townhouses across the street damaged. Thank heaven there was no one outside or they would have been killed. This needs to be investigated, recalled and changed.

Car lulls/jerks when accelerating from low speeds car lacks power most of the time and performs poorly engine loses power, several occurrences of what would appear to be limp mode ( can't get passed 2000-3000 ) rpms car has erratic idle rpms, sometimes high and sometimes low I've recently heard the engine roar while idling and hissing from the engine bay when shutting off the engine also sounded like the car was dieseling after shut down likely because the car was beginning to overheat from the immense stress in the engine from running too lean car has poor sound absorption in the cabin, sounds like you're in a airplane every bump it goes over reverberates through the car for an extremely unpleasant and unsafe experience feels like there is excessive play in the front axle wheels seem to drag and thud/thump like there is a flat when there is not I've had my wheels aligned twice already, they've balanced my tires several times, even changed a wheel bearing (I am aware of the TSB released to address these concerns and you blame it on a bearing) nothing makes this better and it is getting worse my car has been to the dealership for this complaint 3 times already this year ( yes that is every week out of 2020 so far). This is becoming a complete burden in my life and I am not going to be the person who has to die for Mazda to address this.

My 2016 Mazda 3 is doing the same thing as what you just had a recall on with the software but Mazda updated the software and it's back again my car is having trouble going it misfires my check engine light it's on it takes a lot of rpms to go it's sucking up my gas I've already had to replace my battery because my car is dying my fuse box smokes every now and then and I only have 45000 miles this shouldn't be happening.

During hot summer months when running errands (for example) which would require stopping and re-starting the vehicle several times, the cabin will begin to fill with gas fumes. This will start about 30 minutes into the trip. The fumes become so strong that I become sick and have a headache. You can smell fumes inside and outside of the vehicle. This does not happen during highway travel. Even though this is a recall issue for the 2016 Mazda 3, for some reason it does not apply to my Mazda 3. If I want to have this repaired, I would have to pay out of pocket for something that should be replaced by Mazda.

From a full stop and foot on the brake pedal, move foot to hit the gas pedal and a delay or lag is experienced about 50% or more of the time. The regional Mazda expert and dealership have verified the problem and nothing but excuses why they cannot figure out how to fix it have been stated, therefore I have been living with it for over 20k miles on a new car. While starting from a full stop and forgetting about the delay in propulsion, it has caused several near-miss accidents from oncoming vehicles. When I hit the gas pedal, I expect the car to move forward!! this is dangerous!! the dealership does not have a solution and is pointing to Mazda japan for a solution, but nothing for over a year now.

My vehicle felt shaky which caused me to swerve slightly causing my back passenger tire to run over a curb. After the scare it seemed to drive like normal. I only had about a 5 minute drive to work. When getting to work, after being inside a few minutes, a coworker pointed out that smoke was coming from the car. I went with a coworker to check, we opened the hood and flames were present in the front close to where the belts are. We quickly put out the flames with a fire extinguisher, and I have not touched the vehicle. This happened on 5/03/19.

See all problems of the 2007 Mazda MAZDA3 🔎.

Safety recall-electrical system:alternator/generator/regulator while driving on the highway, with my wife and daughter in the backseat I notice my battery light come on. After that every warning light on dashboard came on and the car began to slow down even when pressing my foot on the gas. The car even tried stoping and the steering locked up. We were successfully able to get it towed but I believed this happen because the dealers didn't fix the recall and instaed they bypassed it.

Each time the vehicle is fueled the check engine light come on. I have clicked the fuel cap several times. I have had the cap replaced. There is an evap code showing. The car cannot pass any state inspection.

Mazda 3 engine light on for 2 years. I have taken car to multiple mechanics and in 1-2 days light is back on. Recently car seems to hic cup on shifting and on braking the back end of car seems to run into the front end. In last 2 wks an at light came on and car almost wouldn't shift in gear. I have a verizon hom and got s message indicating �solenoid stuck on e�. When I called firestone they stated those Mazda 3 have that problem and that I need to take car to Mazda. In trying to understand my issue I googled problem that showed there was a electrical recall that may cause engine to stop or problems shifting.

Car's electrical system will cut out without warning. This has happened on the interstate. The radio shuts down, the ability to accelerate is lost, and power steering goes. Several sensor lights come on. I have to fight to get the car to the side of the road and then turn the car off. When restarted the check engine light stays on but the car works fine. This will also happen when the car is idling with the same loss of power. I turn the car off and then back on and it works okay again. This happened in a very mountainous pass recently and there were no shoulders to pull over on and I had no power steering or acceleration. I've taken to several mechanics and they cannot find the issue.

See all problems of the 2013 Mazda MAZDA3 🔎.

Please help me I had purchased a vehicle from ourisman Mazda in laurel MD. Ever since I purchased it I had an acceleration problem they had told me that as long as the engine light doesn't come on its how it was design. Well it keeps the same speed and rpm when you let off the accelerator. I guess your agency has contacted Mazdausa from my last email. This time they told me that I had purchased a 2016 and all about the warranty. I had purchased a 2018 Mazda 3 sport sedan. VIN : (xxxx). I had been told by a mechanic that worked at a dealer that they had other complaints of this problem. When I took my car to the dealer I had let the lead mechanic drive my car and he said look it keeps the same speed (after he took his foot of the accelerator) I told him its not cruse control. He then said that's how it was design. I believe it's is a safety hazard. Thank you for your time. (xxxxx) parts of this document have been redacted to protect personally identifiable information pursuant to the freedom of information act (foia), 5 u. S. C. 552(b)(6).

When I let off of the accelerator it still maintains the speed it was going before I let off the accelerator. The dealer told me that's how its design. He even took it for a ride and said see it still keeps the speed I said its not cruise control. I had contacted the dealer and Mazdausa. Mazdausa ignores me. I just need to get this fixed before someone gets hurt. When I go to pass it stays for a while at the speed I hit before I release the accelerator.

Engine failed entirely during routine highway driving, vehicle lost forward propulsion, eventually coming to complete stop on the road. There were zero warning or any notice at all that the engine was dying. I was stranded on the side of the road for over 1 hour, while help arrived.

See all problems of the 2005 Mazda MAZDA3 🔎.

Car continuingly shows evap dtcs including p0443 and p0446 as well as either too rich or too lean fuel mixture and and O2 sensor issue code. Both O2 sensors were replace previously. The main concern is dangerous and has already almost caused several accidents while the issue has occurred after driving from a stopped position. The issue is, when the vehicle stops at 0 mph, the normal idling rpm speed is around 750rpm. During stops longer than a second, the car will lower the idle rpms to about 500rpm and stay until the throttle is engaged. When the throttle is engaged the vehicle hesitates and comes close to stalling. The vehicle will not power the wheels above about 1000rpms when the throttle is fully depressed and the car will hesitate until the car starts to gradually move forward. This all is happening in the intersection. As the car gets to the intersection, the car starts to pick up to about 1000 to 1500rpm and only then will the car start to fully drive forward without relation to driver's forced depression of the throttle. Basically the vehicle is defiantly not going above 1500rpm until the vehicle is a certain ways forward. This is very dangerous and I have already had very close calls with a Dodge durango, a tractor trailer, an unidentified sedan, and a Toyota prius (of all the vehicles in the world). I was almost "t-boned" by a prius. This issue is I believe to be an issue with the fuel system or engine as this issue only really occurs when it is very very humid or hot out. Usually above 80 degrees with any humidity at all. Could be a vaporlock, although somewhat unusual for a fuel injected vehicle, it isn't impossible.

See all problems of the 2006 Mazda MAZDA3 🔎.

Aeveral recalls for 2008 Mazda3. . . . . However my VIN isnt assosiated with any and I have all the problema. Power steerings unit stripped2 or the 3 bolts holes ans fell down from cracked engine mounts slight rattling. . . . . Stationary and moving. Idle is at 500-1,000 rpms very odd feeling. Random body damage and entire of bottom engine rusty. . . . Paint rusts as well. Just bought the car on finance and really need some help.

See all problems of the 2008 Mazda MAZDA3 🔎.

Fuel propulsion system cracked at coupling under the rear passenger seat spewing massive amounts of fuel into the cab soaking the rear seat pad fire risk present with electric plug there struts are unstable and noisy vvt makes noise when started, grinding in front hubs. Vehicle has some of these problems driving and parked. Airbags system non active. Other issues unknown but possible 35.

Gas cap. This is a known problem. The gas cap works itself loose and causes the check engine light to illuminate since a loose gas cap introduces an oxygen leak. The dealer's fix is to tighten the cap. However, once the car is out of warranty, this causes the owner to have to either buy a code scanner to reset the code or go to the dealer and pay for a diagnosis. This problem is not affected by the type of driving or road conditions. The cap works itself loose and that triggers the warning light.

When decelerating, I'll push in clutch, apply brake, and shift to a lower gear. As I let out the clutch, car will sometimes lurch forward (as if I'm depressing accelerator even though I'm not). I must immediately depress clutch again and let out slowly to prevent the sudden surge in acceleration. Most often happens when I am coming out of a turn and begin to let out clutch. Also, at 3 1/2 years old, with 95,000 mostly highway miles, manual transmission has started popping out of 4th gear while driving. I'll be driving along and for no reason shifter will pop out of gear. Independent transmission shop said cause is likely bad bearings inside transmission and recommended replacement with manufactured transmission. I never had problems with my 2010 Mazda 5 with 5 speed manual transmission. I've reported problems to Mazda service and of course they can never get problem to repeat itself while they are driving.

Interior dome light started flickering, looked up to see why, through the rear view mirror flames could be seen. Vehicle was in motion at highway speed, approx. 65 mph. Car had 22,000 miles on it.

See all problems of the 2015 Mazda MAZDA3 🔎.

The contact owns a 2006 Mazda 3. The contact stated that the vehicle failed to start intermittently. In addition, when the vehicle was started, the contact noticed a fuel odor emitting from the vehicle. The vehicle was towed to the dealer, but was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The VIN was not included in NHTSA campaign number: 15v674000 (electrical system). The failure mileage was 130,000.

Tl-the contact owns a 2015 Mazda mz3. The contact stated that the vehicle was taken to a dealer for routine maintenance, the technician informed her that there was fuel leaking from the vehicle. The technician also informed that the vehicle was included in NHTSA campaign number: 15v621000 (fuel system, gasoline) however, the part to do the recall repair was unavailable. The contact was informed that the vehicle was unsafe to drive and would be kept until the recall remedy could be performed. The contact felt the manufacturer exceeded a reasonable amount of time for the recall repair. The approximate failure mileage was 2,000. Ah.

I just got off work and got in my car to leave. I turned on the car and everything seemed normal. I pulled out of the parking lot and as soon as I pulled up to the light, which was 1block away, my car shut off. I was just at the red light waiting then my car turned off and would not turn back on. All the power in the car was there but my car would just not turn back on, my vehical was being operated in the automatic position. This was dangerous because it was a Friday afternoon during the 5 o'clock traffic and I had all these vehicals lined up behind me honking and I had to push my vehicals off to the side and call a tow truck. My vehical was luckily on the city street.

The day was hot and I was in stop and go traffic with the ac set to 72 degrees in my 2015 Mazda 3 with just 21k miles on it. My car unexpectedly stalled and the check engine and charging system/battery lights came on briefly in the dash. I had to shift into park and push the button to restart my vehicle. The car's ecu/pcm did not set any codes and the problem has not occurred again since that hot day. This is a danger because the sudden loss of power could result in a rear end collision luckily I was in stop and go traffic. Dealer and Mazda have been slow to investigate this thoroughly. Feels like they just want to send me on my way without doing a thorough investigation of this issue.

My wife was driving on the freeway - I was on the passenger side. This is the first time it happened. The car lost sort of reset itself - dash warning lights came on (according to my wife). Radio/cd stopped music - abs light went on (thats all I can see from passenger side). My wife said others too but she was focused on the road because it was a construction zone. She was nervous and said the car was not responding to throttle. Luckily all went back to normal after 2 or maybe 3 seconds. The music came back on also. No check engine light or any sign of trouble. We pulled over and I checked the front to see if we hit something that could have caused it. Restarted the car - all seemed normal and reached our destination. This was our first 200 mile trip or more on this car. 1 day after arrival - I did a once over safety check (fluids, tire pressure, etc) nothing out of the ordinary. Got my obd2 code reader and it had the following u3003 u0140 u0428. So I will take this to our dealer for checkup.

Driving at approx 45,ph, car lost acceleration, power steering, and multiple engine lights on. Car moved to site of the road and towed to dealer.