Front Suspension Control Arm problems of the 2015 Tesla Model S

I noted a clunking noise on the driver side wheel area while driving. I ask for help from service, but everything is automated and they made an appointment for a month later. A few weeks after reporting the noise, I was breaking when my driver side front wheel seem to give way and the car started to skid. The affected wheels seem to be scraping the wheel well. Not much help from the service app and suggested I get it towed 200 miles away at $1100 so they could evaluate. My local tire guy saw the broken left lower control arm and said this was all over the internet and class action suit had just been filed. Telsa has been unresponsive and inaccessible due to their automated system. So far bill to fix is over $4,000.

Front passenger control arm is broken, pushing the tire into the wheel well. I was reversing in my driveway when I felt the drag on the passenger side of the car. I got out and looked around the vehicle and saw a metal piece snapped. I could not move the car, as the tire was pushed into the wheel well. Called for a tow truck. This vehicle was manufactured in fremont, CA in 08/2015, with the other vehicles sold to china, which are now being recalled for the same reason.

This is a complaint about the ongoing problem of Tesla suspension breakages. I do not have the VIN of the car so I have used the VIN of a junkyard Tesla so as to be able to complete this complaint form. Here is a discussion forum thread complete with photograph of the rear wheel canted over at 30 degrees aka "gone whompy" https://teslamotorsclub. Com/tmc/threads/rear-lower-control-arm-failed. 195049/#post-4731008 snip *** I finally got my car back after my 85d suspension had a catastrophic failure last Thursday afternoon. I was driving in congested traffic on a city street when I heard a loud thud, similar to hitting a pothole, yet there was no pothole. My first suspicion was that I either had a flat or a problem with my air suspension. I quickly pulled over, checked tire pressure and raised my suspension to high and slowly continued on. It was pouring rain at the time so I remained in the car. The car had a strange wobble to it so I slowly pulled into the nearest parking lot to examine the situation. I was freaked out when I saw my right rear wheel with it's huge negative camber. Called Tesla roadside and spoke to someone who told me they couldn't tow me since they couldn't see anything wrong with the car! on my invoice, I see they mistakenly gave both right and left control arms the part number 1027459-99-a, which from what I see is a 2014 part. The front upper control arms are listed as "2nd generation" and show part numbers 1043965-00-b and 1043966-00-b for the left and right arms respectively. Has this ever happened to anyone before? would anyone know if my rear control arms are improved from my original ones? I'm very lucky that this didn't happen to me at highway speeds. *** Tesla is covering up this problem andputting lives at risk. I petition you to investigate. Thank you. [xxx] these breakages information redacted pursuant to the freedom of information act (foia), 5 u. S. C. 552(b)(6).

In a parking lot traveling 5mph ran over an elevated speed bump on left side of car when heard a snap in driver rear wheel area. Pulled over into parking spot and tire was cantered. Control arm had snapped. Had 65k miles and Tesla told me it was not under warranty yet the new control arm looks much sturdier and different then the old one. I have pictures of both but this is a real problem for these 2015 and before models. Please help.

I was turning into a parking lot on Friday, oct. 2, 2020, when suddenly I heard a grinding noise from the front right wheel. After parking, I couldn't see anything wrong. When I left, the noise continued, and although the car was driveable (less than 25 mph), the grinding noise continued whenever I turned the wheels at all. Fortunately, I was only about a mile from the local Tesla service center so I drove the car directly there. Although the car did turn, it was not turning as sharply as it should. But it was enough to get me there and into the parking lot safely. At that point, the right front tire looked like it was pushed back against the rear of the tirewell. We looked under the car and saw a detached control arm on the right side. They fixed the part and returned the car to me the following week.

Left front control arm broke at 70mph on highway. Was luckily able to get to the side of the road. It caused damage to inside wheel well and wore through causing battery to lose all coolant. Car is 3 1/2 years old with 113,000 miles.

I was driving my Tesla Model S slowly on a busy downtown street lined with parking spaces. Speed was less than 25 miles per hour. I braked to allow a car to pull out of a parking spot and my car made a loud noise. I tried to continue driving but the noise continued so I pulled into the parking spot that had been vacated by the other driver to see what happened. There was windshield wiper fluid leaking from the front wheel well and a visibly broken control arm at the front left wheel. I think that is what the part is called but I am not certain. There is a picture of the broken part attached. The wheel well was damaged and the trim at the bottom of the door was loose. There appears to be no cause for this failure as there was nothing in the road, no pot holes, no objects, no bumps. The car was driving fine before this occurred. The failure occurred about 3 minutes after I started the trip. Speed was low the entire trip as I was leaving a restaurant in a downtown area full of pedestrians, stop signs and parking spaces. The car was not drive-able following this failure since the front wheel was no longer supported. Tesla sent a tow truck to take the car to their nearest service center.

Front left control arm suffered a failure causing it to break loose from the ball joint and causing the wheel to push back into the body of the car. The failure caused the car to lift up and come to a dead stop. This was at ~5mph after after backing out of the driveway of our house on a residential paved street and starting to drive forward. There were no noises or warnings until the failure of the control are occurred. The photo of the wheel shows it pushed back all the way to make frame contact. The other photos show the control arm completely disconnected from its mounting point. There was some damage to the wheel well liner and lip of the fender thanks to the slow speed that it occurred. The car had to be driven backwards onto a flatbed trailer and then dolly's put under the front wheels in order to get the car to roll forward into the repair shop. It could not be driven forward at all. This failure is very concerning and had it occurred at high speed could have resulted in injury.