general problems of the 2011 Chrysler 200 - part 1

2011 Chrysler 200, 156k miles, original owner. At highway speeds engine will shut off! extremely dangerous as you lose power steering and brakes on a busy interstate. No warning lights. No check engine. Issue just started happening and has happened multiple times in last 3 weeks. Car is unsafe to drive. After occurrence car will restart after about 30 minutes. I do not know why NHTSA or Chrysler hasn't done anything to initiate an investigation and recall. This issue is widely reported on many forums. After second instance, a repair shop reproduced issue and saw u1403 so they updated pcm/ecu as they couldn't find anything else. It has happened since then and my scanner showed dtc codes p061c status code 30 and u0401 status code 20.

I bought a 2011 Chrysler 200 sedan in the summer of 2021. In December of2021, I took my car to a dealership because my heater didn't work. Upon their diagnosis, they said I had a bad heater core. Because I had just purchased the car, they agreed to take off $400 off the repair. It still cost me $1100. 00. Fast forward two years and the same thing happened. Unfortunately, the warranty expired 1 month earlier. I believe this is bad designed unit. Upon researching problems with this car, it comes up as a pretty common occurance. I know they don't build this vehicle anymore. I believe Chrysler should've come up with a design fix for this.

I already have a compliant from back in January of 2022 and original incident date of December 2021. I am still having the same issue with the engine stalling while driving. This keeps happening on highways. At this point the government and Chrysler are a joke. This is supposed to be highway safety yet you guys are letting us with Chryslers deal with this and put our life at risk. Not everyone has the ability to have another car to drive, or just has money to trade their vehicle in. I dont get how this "problem" was so called fixed yet everyone is having the issue still. Wasting thousands of dollar to not find a solution. If something happens to me because of this I promise you I will sue NHTSA and Chrysler dealer and make sure I make you guys just a miserable as we Chrysler owners are.

The contact owns a 2011 Chrysler 200. The contact stated while driving at an undisclosed speed, the accelerator pedal was depressed; however, the vehicle failed to accelerate as intended. The contact stated that the vehicle lost motive power. Additionally, the contact stated that the vehicle occasionally failed to start-up as needed. The vehicle was taken to several independent mechanics however, the failure persisted. The vehicle was not repaired. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired by an independent mechanic or the dealer. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 149,000.

My car will die sometimes upon acceleration and does not restart for up to an hour sometime. No check engine light comes on. From my research online, a lot of people are having the same issue and are reporting it to be a faulty pcm (powertrain control module). My rpm drops to zero and I have to coast to the shoulder of the road. It happens at least once a week.

The vehicle repeatedly stalls out when coming to a stop or when sitting at a stop light or in traffic, and has also shut off while driving at higher speeds on the freeway. This has put myself and passengers in danger, as power steering goes out when the engine is off and braking becomes much harder. The car will not turn back on if the problem occurs at higher speeds, but will turn back on if it occurs at lower speeds and stops. I have taken the car to several shops and they have confirmed this is an issue but cannot pinpoint what exactly is causing it, which has gotten to be very costly. I have yet to take it to the dealership for their insight into the issue. There are no warning lights on the dash, and the only slight codes I have in the system are unrelated to the way the car would drive as explained by the mechanics at the shops I have taken it to.

I will be driving at the speed limit and the vehicle engine will turn off. Power steering and control of the vehicle will stop. The car will not restart leaving me stranded on the road. This appears to be an issue that others are reporting. There is no check engine light or any notification that the engine is about to stop.

Car keeps shutting off with no warning loss of brakes and steering and no acellation this issue was brought up before but not addresse on.

The car begins to buck hard and drive sluggish on the highway around 45 miles per hour. And when stopped idle at the light stalls regularly. I took it to the dealer and they had me replace the cam shift sensor. The repair did not work. It continues to stall.

On multiple occasions, the car will stall while driving, locking up the whole system and forcing the driver to coast to the side of the road. The car will not restart for 30-40 minutes while you sit stranded on the side of the road. Searches on the car reveal this is not the only one it is happening to. This needs to be investigated as a car stalling on the freeway in 0 degree weather is a major hazard.

Yesterday, when I was dropping christmas, presents off to my son at his moms' house. My 2011 Chrysler 200, convertible limited with 3. 6l v6 pentastar flex-fuel motor. Temp gauge went all the way up into red. Which had to cross lanes on highway so I could get off on the freeway ramp. Which I made it a block and the car stalled in below-freezing temps with no heat figuring out what to do as I get out of the vehicle I noticed brown motor oil bubbling and gushing out a coolant reservoir with oil streaks all the way down passenger side car including through rims. I researched flaws and issues that Chrysler acknowledges, like that class-action lawsuit for vehichlwes not covered under extended vehicles that have the same issue, and problems also how come even tho my vehicle 2011 Chrysler is not covered when covered is 2012 - 2017 even thos my car motor is identical as 2012 - 2013 which was the first generation with faulty oil cooler. Or when they used sand casting molds to make cylinder heads which some of the sand stayed and circulated through the system, causing oil cooler lines and coolant passageways. Pretty much was left stranded in freezing below temps with a car where motor oil spueling out of coolant overflow tank, over the windshield where I could barely see when trying to pull over. Also oil all down passenger side of vehicle wet from front to back . Not to mention other faults with the multi systems. . Read more...

My engine is misfiring out of the clear blue. And when I say misfire I mean my vehicle will literally shut off mid-drive as you’re in traffic. Everything completely shuts off and the wheel will lock up. So if you’re not somewhere where you can pull over a pile up will ensue. I have taken it to a shop when the car cut off on the highway for the 3rd with what I thought was the issue. I spent large amounts of money for the shutting off to continue. When I picked it up from the shop the car shut off again about two weeks later or so. I brought it back to the same place and they took my car for the day to see what the issue could be. They gave it back and told me they have no idea why the car keeps shutting off and they have done all they possibly could. This problem could’ve have caused multiple accidents as most of the incidents have resulted of loss of power on the highway. To be going at a steady speed with other cars around you and suddenly shut off can cause everyone including myself to be injured if not worse. This is a common problem among these vehicles as I have read up on and no one has done anything about it. This is scary and something needs to be done. These brand cars are discontinued and I can only imagine why. This is ridiculous that I’m risking my life everyday because I don’t know if this will be the day an accident happens.

1) the engine suddenly cut off, power braking and power steering were gone. This happens randomly under any circumstances, with absolutely no precursors. The car will not start for about an hour, and after that time it starts with absolutely no issues, no check engine light, nothing. Yes, it is available for inspection upon request. 2) while driving on the highway at about 65mph, all power was lost, and ability to control the car was extremely limited, and this happened multiple times. Only by pure fortune I avoided a fatal crash when the car died in rush hour. 3) after the first time this has happened the car was taken to a mechanic, and they were not able to replicate the issue under any circumstances that they tried, and there was nothing wrong with the car that would warrant this, as it has never been in an accident, and was well maintained. 5) no, has not been inspected by anyone besides the standard state inspection and the mechanic that attempted to fix it. 6) there was never and still isn't anything wrong with the car that I know of, no weird noises, no engine light, no issues whatsoever besides it randomly dying and then coming back to life like nothing happened. . Read more...

This is the third time the engine completely shut off in the middle of driving. First time it started back up after 5 minutes. Second time started back up after being jumped eventhough the battery had charge. This last time the car would not start. It has the power it was turning over but the engine would not start. Power steering turned off in both occasions. I had to have me vehicle towed and it still will not start. I was driving approximately 60 mph on a paved highway route 244, it turned off on a straight away, no hills or turns.

Heater core plugs from the dexcool braking down, then finally starts to leak causing lack of heat, eventually fogging the windows so you can't see causing multiple safety hazards. Common problem from what I see on line! you don't realize in summer when you buy the car till you go to use it in the spring and it's not covered under warranty!.

The car dies while driving down the highway.

While driving on the highway, my car cut off completely. I had to try and maneuver to the side of the highway to get out of traffic. The car did not start back up after 30 minutes. I have had problems for a month where the car does not restart after I go to the store.

When accelerating my car will die and not start for two hours. The first time I was leaving a stop sigh and it died so I coasted to the side. The second time I pulled out to pass a slow vehicle going 40 mph and the car died. Both times I had to leave it for a couple hours and then it started. This happened a month apart. First time was in the city and the second time was on the highway. The first time I took it to a close by Chrysler dealer who said they could not find anything wrong and charged 100 dollars to hook it up to there diagnostic reader.

The automatic transmission has always shifted hard and now the transmission is having a hard time shifting into the next gear, it revs up and I have to take my foot off of the gas in order for it to shift. This seems to only happen in the lower gears. Once I'm above 30 its fine. The code that just came on is low transmission fluid pressure.

The engine died when idle at a traffic light. I had to put the car in park and restart the engine. This also happened while I was in front of a railroad track. I was very afraid that that car would not start. I was able to restart the vehicle after I had calmed myself. This is is very dangerous so I took it to have diagnostics performed at dealer. The vehicle report showed no computer codes indicating failure.

Lost power - car suddently stopped on i5 la to sacramento on the freeway and happened multiple times driving on the freeway. . . Had to pullover. Car lost power. Thank god nobody hit me. Very scary.

The contact owns a 2011 Chrysler 200. Whether the vehicle was parked or while driving at any speed, the thermostat indicator remained illuminated. The dealer diagnosed the vehicle and "thermostat error" displayed on the instrument panel. The mechanic stated that the coolant ran non-stop into the engine; therefore, the engine could not warm up the vehicle. The manufacturer was notified. The vehicle was not repaired. The VIN was unknown. The approximate failure mileage was 71,000.

While driving my car all of a sudden out of the blue it will just die's sometimes at 50 miles an hour sometimes at 75 miles an hour sometimes at 5 miles an hour just leaving a stop sign no fail codes whatsoever. After about one or two hours of sitting the car starts right up and drives good until the next time it does it I'm not the only one who has been having trouble with the unsafe p. O. S. !.

My 2011 200 gave no signs of having any problems, started right up on the first key turn, I went to go leave the parking lot of where I was but as I pulled out onto the busy road and started accelerating, the car stopped going faster and instead started to only rev as I pushed on the gas pedal. Cars were approaching behind me so I pulled over to the side of the road, just in time for my car to indicate it switched itself into reverse. At this point I start panicking unsure what was going to happen next. My car was at about 5 mph at this point when the engine just died. The electronics worked for a while, until the battery died, but the engine had no hope in being started, even with a jump. After being taken to the shop I was told the alternator had failed while I was driving and that the mechanic had burnt his hand while checking it. They also mentioned something about the ground not being in place. The car had only been on for minutes, and has less then 32000 miles on it. Knowing Chrysler had a recall on alternators in the past I contact them first but they gave me the run around, and still are giving me the run around, but I believe there is something else going on with my vehicle then they are letting me know as they mentioned the dealership had been emailing the engineers in regards to my car. I don't feel safe putting my 15 month old son in this car, let alone myself in this car. This car is only 5 years old and still has low mileage, and I've taken care of it like a baby. There were no warning signs of anything wrong, and no reason for anything to fail unless it was something internal and that leaves me unknowing if it will happen again, at any given moment.

The contact owns a 2011 Chrysler 200. While driving approximately 65 mph, the vehicle's speed reduced to 20 mph independently and the traction control and electronic control throttle warning indicators illuminated. The vehicle was maneuvered to the side of the road. The vehicle was driven with caution and would not exceed 20 mph. The vehicle was taken to the dealer for diagnostic testing. The electronic control throttle was being replaced. The manufacturer was notified. The approximate failure mileage was 33,980. The VIN was unavailable.

Load metal to metal clunk when cars gas pedal is released or pushed down. Left wheel area is where the sound is coming from. Maybe axle area. Transaxle . Bearing area. Its going into the shop on Friday. 3/27/2015 , red wing, minnesota. They are going to take apart and have a look. It has been doing this sense we got it . But is getting worse. Randy.

The original date is sept. 2012. I was unable to enter this info above. I have been having problems with unexpected loss of power, (falling dead) since 2012. It normally happens when I am going slow due to being in traffic. I am stopped or barely moving and when we start moving I press on the accelerator and it will not go because it has fallen dead. I have to put my flashers on, pull over if possible, put the gear in park, turn off the engine and restart the car and it is good to go. There have been times this happens if I am at a stop light also when this occurs. The next issue is the low tire pressure light comes on most times when the weather changes. I have taken the car to a tire repair shop and was told when we have extreme weather changes, this will happen and to check the tire pressure every 3 weeks. This is costing me $5. 00/trip for pressure checks. I have taken my car back to the dealership when I started having these problems, they checked the car, did a test drive, kept it overnight and said no problems were found. Very disappointing and frustrating.

On 3/3/15 around 5:40pm I was driving 30 mph on the highway. I placed my foot on the accelerator, when my car turned completely off. I immediately turned on my hazards lights, slammed on my breaks and put the car in park, I turned the car back on and continued driving down the road, all this occurred so quickly I almost was rammed in the back by a large truck! im terrified to drive my car now, I don't have another car so I don't know what to do. .

I was operating vehicle on surface streets at approximately 35 mph when the vehicle slowed down and would not accelerate to more than 20 mph. I took the vehicle to a local Chrysler dealer and it was diagnosed with a worn out throttle body. The part was replaced at considerable expense as the car was out of warranty. I was told by several parties that this failure was premature and the internal parts wore out because they were defective. The mechanic told me he replaces a lot of these throttle bodies.

The contact owns a 2011 Chrysler 200. The contact stated that while driving from a complete stop, the engine exhibited slight hesitation without warning. The failure occurred whenever the vehicle was in operation. In addition, the failure recurred when driving up an incline. The vehicle was taken to the dealer, who was unable to duplicate or locate the failure. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 17,000.

Over the past 4 months, our parents vehicle has been in to the dealership for servicing 6 times due to the vehicle being completely dead. The car never sat longer than 2 - 3 days without being driven. They were told the problem was due to the license plate light, then the glove box light not turning off, then they weren't sure. On 2/26, the vehicle would only start and run, while connected to the jumper. The dealership took the car in and had it for 2 full weeks. The dealership could not diagnose the problem. Mom & dad picked up the vehicle on March 14th, no explanation as to the cause of the problem. Went back to the dealership on March 19th to find out if any further information had been determined. . . Nothing! they were then advised the car has to be driven all the time, to avoid dying because the computer system never shuts off and therefore, drains the battery when the car is idle. They were further advised to purchase and use a battery tender trickle charger and to keep it connected to the vehicle whenever the vehicle is not in operation. This is very inconvenient as our parents are in their 80's and don't get around so easy anymore. This is not an acceptable solution. They've had this vehicle for almost 4 years, if the computer issue as described by the dealer were accurate, why did it work properly for the first 3. 5 years and now has issues? the vehicle is still under warranty however, without accurate diagnosis, nothing is being done. The last communication we've had with the dealer was Friday March 27th. Telling us if the car doesn't die again by this coming Friday (April 3, 2015), they'll be closing the case. The problem has not yet been diagnosed or resolved. Is there anything we can do, any information you can provide, to help our parents get this issue resolved?.

The alternator of the vehicle failed as I was driving and caused the vehicle to stop operating.

The problem: popping #33 fuse (switch bank/diagnostic link connector/pcm), have been replacing fuses each and every time so I can go on with my business. I find that it happens between shifting gears. It does not matter if you are in drive/automatic mode or auto-stick mode. Did not turn my car in right away (now I wish I would have) because I would have felt silly if I had my car towed and the tech. Found that a $. 25 fuse was blown. This is a very serious issue with a risk factor through the roof because the drive train completely shuts down. No power steering, no power brakes. At highway speeds you pucker up and hope you can make it to the side without getting into an accident before your car comes to a complete stop. First time it happened, it just rained heavily and I thought something got wet - entering the freeway up shift from 2nd-3rd 34084 miles second time, turning into my driveway downshift from 2nd to 1st - coincidence? 35028 miles third time, abrupt stop downshift from 6th to 1st 36013 fourth time - pulling into work downshift from 3rd to 2nd 37112 fifth time - slowing down on expressway downshift 5th to 4th 38223 sixth time - slowing to a stop downshift 2nd to 3rd 38,764 seventh time - during rush hour stop and go traffic (the last straw) up-shift 2nd to 3rd 39,134 eighth time - within 15 minutes of seventh time stopping at a stop light. Downshift 2nd to 1st 39,146 ninth time - next morning on my way to the dealership - up-shift from 4th to 5th 39,164 went to dealership and made an appointment. Luckily I am conscious of my surroundings and was able to get out of harms way every time. I will not let my wife drive this car, for her safety, until it is fixed. Is there a documented fix for this?.

While setting the cruise control on this rental vehicle (enterprise car rental), my knee accidentally bumped the ignition which ended up turning the car off. Realizing that the car was slowing down, I assumed that the cruise control setting hadn't taken. I tried to give the car gas manually and couldn't get the car to speed up. Unable to maintain speed, I attempted to maneuver the car to the shoulder amongst trucks and cars going 65 mph + on the 3 lane interstate highway. The hazards and turn signals were inoperable and the steering locked up. I narrowly escaped collision. I was able to restart the car on the shoulder and continue traveling.

2011 Chrysler 200. Consumer writes in regards to vehicle engine cutting off while driving. The consumer stated the dealer was unable to find a problem.