Alternator/generator/regulator Problems of Chrysler 200 - part 1

Have had car less than a year. Air bag lights constantly come on and I have to get it repaired - light is on while driving and while stopped. Light came in the day I got the car as I was leaving the lot and they refused to do anything for it. Also the car keeps stalling. Had the battery replaced and alternator checked, which is running almost like brand new. The car still stalls while driving it with no warning signs at all. No lights are on it will just happen, again, with no warnings. Everything gets locked up and I can't even put the car in neural to back it out from the middle of the street. The car can barely handle highway speed limit of 70, the bumps or groves in the road almost feel like it's pushing the car and it will spin out (this is in dry warm weather). I've checked the tires they are fine. The entire suspension is bad and needs replaced. The charging systems for your phones don't always work, it's off and on. The chargers work just fine in the house so it's not the cords itself. Was shown the carfax before buying and there are no accident reports.

See all problems of the 2015 Chrysler 200 🔎.

Battery and alternator good car won't start , have lights and power won't turn over until jump.

My passenger side window does not come back up after being let down, using the driver window button or the passenger button. I have replaced the motor, the switch and regulator but same issue. I have research and looked online where this seems to be a common problem even after the individuals replaced all parts from 2004- up until now.

See all problems of the 2012 Chrysler 200 🔎.

My 2013 Chrysler 200 s keeps stalling. I replaced the fuel pump, bought a new battery, and had my alternator and transmission looked at, all the transmission shop found was an oil pressure code, and they cleared it.

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It shuts off while driving . . Without no warning lights indicating that theres any problem. . The battery voltage is good and my alternator is good as well . It shut off on me more than three times.

See all problems of the 2014 Chrysler 200 🔎.

Just purchased the car and less than 24 hours after buying, the car sits dead. Noticed there was no coolant in the overflow so I added coolant and once I got into my vehicle it had the battery light illuminated. I drove it about 2 miles and the traction control light came on, the airbag light came on, the electrical system light came on, the abs light came on, and the check engine light came on before my vehicle completely died and has not moved since! I jumped it but it stalled out before I could even get the hood closed and drive anywhere. I replaced the battery but the issue here is the alternator! why hasn't this been recalled yet??.

My car is stalling while driving causing engine to die. Car drives but when I pull slow down car sometimes stalls and dies. Have already changed battery and checked alternator. This has been going on for one week now, do not feel safe driving car.

Reference recall p60 for alternator diode issue. The complaint vehicle has an intermittent issue with a dead short to ground condition within the alternator. Vehicle running will intermittently dead short to ground. The vehicle shuts off unexpectedly in this condition and the battery and electrical system is completely shorted and nonfunctional. In this condition I removed the electrical connection to the alternator and voltage was restored. Replaced the cable and observed the short condition again. It is very disturbing that the scope of this issue was not adequately defined initially. I have escalated this to fca directly and was provided with a reference number 76150991, they have said that there is nothing they can do and the repair is out-of-pocket until Chrysler engineering to the NHTSA makes a different decision. I truly believe there are several people who will unknowingly replace the battery and start driving again, putting their lives and others on the road at risk.

While driving home from work my 2015 Chrysler 200 abruptly loses all power in the middle of a busy road. The battery has been test and was fully charged, the alternator is completely fine. Also when the car shut off the hazards wouldn't even work. . And leaves me to believe if I were to have gotten into an accident that day the airbags wouldn't have deployed. I am honestly terrified to get back into that car for safety reasons. . This needs to be fixed. One week after buying the car the low beams work whenever they want to. Too many problems!!.

The battery light in my car continues to come on even after having the battery replaced as well as the alternator replaced. Also the internal lights inside of my car began to blink like crazy, air conditioner was coming on/off, and the lights even shut off at one point almost as if the car couldn't control itself. I do not feel safe driving it.

Transmission issues for almost a year. I have explained them to the dealership who refuses to document. I purchased this car new the summer of 2015. It had sealants misssing from the manufacture and so it had a leak that resulted in the dealership having my car for 2 months and me having to force them to replace my carpeting they let sit in the sun for 2 weeks and mold and to replace parts in my car that they broke the clips on trying to find the leak. Several times they called me to come and get my car with mold in it and parts still hanging. I had to get managers involved. I came to get an oil change once and they sent me out onto the street without tightening the lugs and I was wobbling down the street and they lied and said the pressure was off balance. Once my car shut off with no oil it. They said it's likely the engine. My tire pressure has been saying its low since about a week after purchasing the car. Soon as I put air in, less than 24 hours its low. The windshield wipers have always sounded extremely loud. I had a thermometer go out before 3 yrs old. I barely have 30,000 miles on my car right now. Now my car wouldn't stay on when I tried to take it out of park in my driveway thurs. It stalled for a second to start up then it wouldn't come back on. I tried several times until it cranked up like normal, but then it refused to switch gears saying check transmission and park sense and to put back in park then shift gears. After that I had to have my battery charged to crank. The next day I had to get a boost. My battery and alternator tested good, but the check engine light is now on mentioning a throttle sensor and watchdog performance. Dealership claims my battery is bad. I again told them my transmission wasn't sensing correcrtly and switching gears cuts my car off sometimes. The technician says I need to pay $428 to have them replace my "bad" battery first.

Tl the contact owns a 2012 Chrysler 200. The contact stated that while driving at various speeds, the vehicle stalled without warning. The contact stated that on several occasions, the vehicle failed to restart. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic who replaced the alternator however, the failure recurred. The cause of the failure was not determined. The local dealer and manufacturer were not notified of the failure. The failure mileage was unknown.

This is the second time in 2 years that I had to replace the alternator and battery on this car. I also had to replace fuses on this car. All the hazard lights came on battery light, hazard lights, all the lights in dashboard came on. Care accelerated slowly until it turned off. Couldn't drive.

In 3 weeks time the car stalled midway in the highway while driving as if it were going to turn off. I took it in for repairs and it was the shock plugs. Then the brakes were not working. I took the car to replace all four brakes. A day later the battery light came on. After driving my son to school the car pulled back and shook and shut down. I took it back in for repairs and it was the alternator. Today the windshield wipers froze midway. This is the most unsafe car and all should be recalled in general.

See all problems of the 2011 Chrysler 200 🔎.

I bought my car brand new in 2012 from chryaler Dodge and Jeep in springfield PA. I babe around 96,000 miles on my car and this will now be the third alternator that has been put in my vehicle. From what I know, the alternator should last up between 80,000 to 100,000 miles. I believe there has to have been a defect with my specific car. Along with some of the other recall items I am now reading about with my model, having kids, I am increasingly concerned about my health and saftey driving this vehicle. I want to know what can be done about this on your end.

Leaving for work this morning and vehicle chute off as making a right turn. Upon arriving to work the engine shut in the middle of an intersection. Sounded like a weak turn over but battery is fine and alternator is ok as well and this poses a safety issue this has happened before.

Engine light came on, had battery replaced since the battery was about 6 years old. Car has only 29582 miles on it. Seemed to fix then while driving 3 miles later battery light came on again. Decided to take to dealer the mext morning. Then while driving to dealership the car began to rapidly lose functionality while warning lights were appearing on the dashboardone by one until it car lost power while driving. The time from no warning lights to complete loss of electrical functionality was approximately 2 minutes. The shut down included an abrupt loss of power steering and braking capabilities while driving on a busy street during day. I was able to quickly compensate for the loss of power steering and braking and stop the vehicle while drifting into a gas station parking lot. Attempts to restart the vehicle involved no clicking or the engine attempting to turn over. Had car towed to dealership. I can only assume ot may be the alternator since battery is brand new now. I am wondering if this is part of campaign #17v-435 but my car is a Chrysler 200 3. 6 engine 6 cylinder touring convertible and that recall does not show 200's on the notice. I have not gotten any recall noticies for this type of problem. . I bought car brand new. I am the only owner and faithfully take my car to the dealer for maintenance and oil changes.

Takata recall the wiper connector under the hood broke. I have had the car for 5 years brand new and ever other year something is breaking on this car. Why? my wiper sprayer does not work. I am disappointed by the money I have spent in paying the car note and replacing parts. In June of 2018 I had to replace the alternator. . . I work so hard to purchase a car that I can depend on for transportation for me and my children's safety, did I pick the wrong company for that. Thanks mrs. Borum.

Alternator dies at 78,000 miles. Heat no longer works due to heating core at 60,000 miles.

My vehicle battery light came on after getting a new battery. Then driving one day on street it just stalled out. It started up after 2 mins. Parked it about 1/2 an hour it started right back up only to stall again 2 more times both on street in heavy traffic. I got a alert oil change required (walmart) changed the oil made it home later went back out for the car to stall again same busy street, it started about 4 mins later, made it home didn't move it couple days. Mechanic put it on diagnostic said I needed alternator still stalling after new alternator. Haven't had the car a month! battery light still on after new alternator as well.

The battery light came on the car started stalling I got a jump off it ran for a second and started stalling again I jumped it off again I took the negative off and left the positive on in the car die to me that is the alternator.

The contact owns a 2012 Chrysler 200. When the contact shifted the gear into the park position, the instrument panel gauges fluctuated independently and the vehicle stalled without warning. The vehicle was able to restart on the first attempt; however, the failure recurred. The vehicle was towed to an independent tow company (718-828-1500) who informed the contact that the alternator failed and needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired due to the quote provided. The manufacturer and dealer were not contacted. The failure mileage was approximately 101,580.

To start off the abs and traction control will not stop turning off and on even after replacing everything . Almost all the time when it rains they will kick in the e brake and start grinding . No matter how many times I change the brakes and rotors and master control they never stop squeaking . Lastly almost all the electrical problems started after the alternator failed and I had to replace it . My speedometer just died on me today and I have no clue how that happened .

Something electrical is draining my battery. When I drive, the check engine light comes on, the abs, traction, and brake light comes on while driving. When I'm idle nothing happens. When I'm on the highway it jerks and stalls a bit. I have to accelerate a lot to keep it going. I've had the battery replace 2 times in the past 3 months - brand new. It keep draining my battery. The alternator was fine. I took it to the dealership they told me they can't read it if the lights are not on. But it only comes on when I'm driving. The lights in the car, headlights, and radio all go out while I'm driving then back on. The headlights flicker. I'm about to need to have the battery replaced now a third time with no help from the dealership. My engine light is still on and and it drives rough and I smell gas when I'm driving. I just bought this car in August and I've had more issues with it than any other vehicle I've ever owned. I've only received 1 recall for the vehicle, I believe it should be thoroughly checked because it's too many issues for a car that's only 4 years old.

While driving the car. . The cars electrical system stopped working. While driving on the freeway the car shut down and was almost in severe car accident because of the issue. There is a new battery and the alternator has been checked and is in great working condition.

The contact owns a 2015 Chrysler 200. While driving approximately 35 mph, the vehicle suddenly shut off and would not immediately restart. The contact had previously replaced the battery and alternator, but the failure continued. The cause of the failure was not diagnosed. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The failure mileage was 51,000.

The contact owns a 2013 Chrysler 200. While driving approximately 20 mph and making a right or left turn, the power steering became difficult to maneuver. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic where it was diagnosed that the power steering failed and needed to be repaired. The vehicle was not repaired. In addition, while driving 50 mph, the vehicle decelerated and stalled. The contact was able to coast into a parking lot. The vehicle was towed to an independent mechanic where it was diagnosed that the alternator failed, which caused the battery to fail. Both the alternator and battery needed to be replaced. The vehicle was repaired. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failures. The approximate failure mileage was 72,000.

The alternator experienced a rapid failure: while driving on I-95 north through maryland at highway speed (~65 mph), the abs and steering control indicator lights began to blink on and off, joined shortly thereafter by the brake indicator. This went on for about 10 seconds before the vents suddenly began to blow hot air. I pulled over to the shoulder and shut the engine. The car would not restart and the battery died--no hazard lights, or anything. I lifted the hood to check and it smelled like something was burning. After having the car towed for service, they said it was the alternator. The car is a 3. 6l with a 160 amp alternator. The same alternator was recalled for the same issue (NHTSA recall 14v-634) in the rear-wheel drive versions of these Chryslers. From my understanding, the alternator in my car is identical to the recalled alternator, differing only in the housing. There were never any indicators that the alternator was going bad--no dimming lights, no history of requiring jump starts, etc. This came out of nowhere and would have put us in a dead car in the middle of a major interstate in a rainstorm had we not pulled over to the shoulder immediately.

Passenger side pushes out cold air, terrible to drive in and uncomfortable. Battery has been replaced 4 times in the last 2 years. Alternator as well. While driving to work, my windshield frosted over from being so cold and I had to veer off the road to avoid getting into an accident.

Car stalls without much warning while driving. Engine light comes on, then a slight jerk of the vehicle, then power cuts out. Power steering loss,, radio display goes out and hazards won't work, which is very dangerous. If I turn the key off, I can restart the car and drive again, but it happens every few minutes. Very scary to be driving in rush hour traffic and have the car simply shut down and not be able to at least signal other drivers with hazard flashers. Not a battery or alternator issue, as these have been replaced. Something needs to be done before someone gets seriously hurt because the vehicle intermittently just shuts down. Car is currently at dealership since mechanic could not figure out what was wrong.

Electrical short, destroyed alternator, pcm and battery. Manufacturer is refusing to pay or help . Upon reviewing ther internet we noticed that most of there vehicles since 2012 have had this problem the fee to pay is over 2000. 00 an no guarantee it will not happen again.

Tl-the contact owns a 2016 Chrysler 200. The contact stated that while driving at 45-50 mph without warning, the vehicle stalled. The contact stated that the vehicle would restart after approximately five minutes. The vehicle was taken to landmark Dodge Chrysler Jeep ram located at 6850 mt zion blvd, morrow, GA 30260, (770) 968-4900, to be diagnosed. The contact was given several diagnosis including low oil, battery failure and alternator failure. The vehicle was repaired however, the failure recurred. The manufacturer was contacted and notified of the failure; case number: 34043687. The approximate failure mileage was 480. Ah.

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Dash board warning lights come on and the car dies. I have had the alternator and alternator belt replaced last summer; now it is doing it again. The car is very dangerous and it simply "dies".

While driving the battery light came on and electrical systems began to fail. Radio, abs system, windows and ac all shut off. The car failed to accelerate properly and engine would not shift gears. Braking and steering systems became compromised before car completely stalled and coasted to stop on side of road. Approximately 2-3 minutes from battery light going on to the car becoming totally nonresponsive. Car would not start, unless jumped. Required tow. Dealership states the issue was an alternator that shorted, and in turn burned out the battery. Required the replacement of both the alternator and the battery at a cost of approximately $1100. 00 (before negotiated discount of 10%).

While driving, the car began to rapidly lose functionality while warning lights were appearing on the dashboard until it abruptly shut down while driving in traffic. The time from no warning lights to complete loss of functionality was approximately 10-15 seconds. The shut down included an abrupt loss of power steering and braking capabilities while driving on a busy street at night. I was able to quickly compensate for the loss of power steering and braking and stop the vehicle while avoiding a crash, but just barely. Thankfully, I broke down next to two police officers who helped push my vehicle onto the side of the road. These officers may be able to attest to the fact that no noises or abnormal operation of the vehicle was apparent before the abrupt shut-off while driving. Attempts to restart the vehicle involved no clicking or the engine attempting to turn over. The vehicle is currently being repaired, but the preliminary diagnosis is one of a faulty alternator. I will attempt to retain the faulty alternator from the repair center. I had only started the car 2-3 minutes before the incident and there were no apparent electrical issues (engine struggling to start, lights dimming, etc. ) while starting the car or during operation.