Vehicle Speed Control Problems of Dodge Caliber - part 2

Have had several batteries, starters and alternators replaced over the past 3 years. Car has 140,000 miles on it. Recently the engine light went on. Now when it rains, the dashboard warning lights go off like a christmas tree with the the warning bell sounding. Car won't go over 20mph. If I turn it off and then on again (sometimes after a few tries) it starts up fine. Like the car but can't afford whatever is wrong to fix it.

See all problems of the 2007 Dodge Caliber 🔎.

Electronic throttle control failed 4 times, 2 times in hazardous situations. I. E. No throttle control on a high speed interstate. The unit was replaced at owners cost of $600. Please note NHTSA action number pe10012. Looks like Chrysler had the problem with 2007 Caliber and has not solved the problem yet.

See all problems of the 2011 Dodge Caliber 🔎.

Tl- the contact owns a 2007 Dodge Caliber. The contact stated when another driver operated the vehicle the accelerator pedal was depressed and the vehicle accelerated and veered into a cornfield. The driver was able to stop the vehicle by having the brake depressed. There were no warning indicators illuminated at the time of the failure or afterwards. The vehicle was not diagnosed by a dealer or independent mechanic. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. There was a recall for this specific failure NHTSA campaign number: 10v234000(vehicle speed control) however this vehicle's VIN number was not included. The approximate vehicle failure mileage was 91,000. Kh.

I was driving on a highway going about 60-65 mph when my car began to resist ( pull back) as I was trying to cut over a few lanes the speed dropped dramatic to 5pmh and soon as I was able to veer off the highway it completely shut off in the middle of driving. Good thing I was able to get off the road. And I had to get it towed home. Get home the car would start but there was no driving power no speed. Tried to back the car up would not push past 10rpm. I had to get it towed to a macanic said the throttle body was the issue. I read many complaints on google about Dodge Calibers having this issue as soon as it hits 80+thousand miles on it. I see that many cars have been on recall except the Calibers?.

See all problems of the 2009 Dodge Caliber 🔎.

The total integrated power control module (tipm) is the latest diagnosis made (7/31/15) for my 2007 Dodge Caliber. History: beginning in 2010 I began to notice an intermittent terrible whining noises and loss of power, which I attributed to (incorrectly) to the Dodge cvt automatic transmission. The “events would occur then o go away only to return again. Then beginning in 2011 the “events” were followed shortly thereafter by electrical component failures all of which caused me to make emergency shoulder pull offs due to significant power loss and the acrid odor and smoke of smoldering plumes of smoke. The acrid smell and smoke would stop when I shut down the vehicle; however the vehicle would not restart and had to be towed to a mechanic in each of the following documented incidents: 1/3/11 (mileage 67,877) tow and replace starter - $429. 00 1/7/12 (mileage 73,943) tow and replace warranted starter - $179. 00 2/14/13 (mileage 85,490) tow and replace warranted starter- $189. 00 3/7/14 (mileage 97,383) tow and replacement starter - $324. 03 2/15/15 (mileage unknown) replace alternator – $406. 00 5/20/15 (mileage 102,660) replacement starter $491. 27 7/17/15 (mileage 103, 320) replacement starter $ (no charge) 7/17/15 (mileage 103, 325) unable to diagnose electrical problem 7/31/15 (mileage 103, 325) replacement (tipm) $ 1242. 00 (estimate) come on Dodge/daimler Chrysler/fiat make this right or forever forego future product purchase.

The etc (electronic throttle control) light comes on more and more, causing the engine to lose power at low and high rpms. I had it checked and I get codes of u1407,(implausible engine torque request signal received) u1424,(implausible engine torque signal received) u1425. (implausible pedal position signal received). Rough idle occurs at start up. Etc light comes on at low and high rpms even after the car has been running for some time.

The contact owns a 2007 Dodge Caliber. The contact stated that while driving approximately 65 mph, the electrical warning light illuminated and the ability to accelerate failed. The vehicle was restarted and resumed to normal. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic and they were unable to duplicate the failure. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 85,000. The VIN was not available.

The contact owns a 2008 Dodge Caliber. The contact stated while driving approximately 70 mph, a significant reduction in speed occurred unexpectedly while the accelerator pedal was engaged. The vehicle was maneuvered cautiously to the side of the road. The vehicle was towed to an independent mechanic for diagnosis. The mechanic diagnosed that the throttle body control would need to be replaced. The vehicle was in the process of being repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the problem. The approximate failure mileage was 94,000.

See all problems of the 2008 Dodge Caliber 🔎.

The contact owns a 2007 Dodge Caliber. While driving 70 mph, the vehicle decelerated and the linn bolt warning light illuminated. The failure recurred several times. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic. The technician diagnosed that the electronic control, the power train activator, and the actuator control system needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was 171,570.

The contact owns a 2007 Dodge Caliber. While driving approximately 5 mph, there was a delayed response when the accelerator pedal was depressed. The failure recurred on a separate occasion. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was not notified. The approximate failure mileage was 126,000.

My vehicle has a manual transmission. In January 2015 the transmission failed and the powertrain was replaced. After that, when shifting, occasionally the engine would rev as if I hadn't taken my foot off the accelerator when depressing the clutch and it was impossible to shift. Sometimes the vehicle would speed up on its own and other times it took forever to get the car up to posted speeds. The occasional engine revving became more frequent as the winter wore on as well as the fast/slow acceleration making the car's performance unpredictable and unsafe to drive. I took it to the dealership a second time and they diagnosed "throttle body failure" and replaced it. This cost me $572. 68. I have now had the car back only a couple of days, but am unsure if this will happen again. Online there are a lot of complaints about throttle body failure in the Dodge Caliber. This is a huge safety issue that needs to be addressed before someone is killed or injured by an uncontrollable vehicle.

See all problems of the 2010 Dodge Caliber 🔎.

I purchased this 2007 Dodge Caliber rt awd in Dec of 2012. The dealership grand Chrysler Dodge Jeep in lowell, michigan on main st, reported to me the consumer, before purchase, at my request, a vehicle history stating 1 owner vehicle with no accidents. Thank god I did get the warranty because less than 14 days fresh off the lot, the vehicle loss all power and barely driveable, the car, while I was driving it, on the highway around 55 to 60 mph, lost speed real quickly and and could barely drive it to get it off the road. The vehicle coded at service shop 02 censors and catillatic convertor, the vehicle was at the dealer service dept and back and forth from my home for more than a month, until finally the Caliber had to be seen by a service representative from Chrysler/Dodge and now pushing 2 months without the vehicle not only did the 02 sensors and catillatic convertor had to be replaced, but the computer too. Got the vehicle back drove it 3 months and the vehicle had grinding in the front end,electrical seat heating and blinkers systems were malfunctioning, each tim the engine light came on and the vehicle remained sluggish and unsafe to drive, but the dealership lacked concern and made me drive it in the unsafe condition from west olive michigan to lowell. Oct 2014 the vehicle almost caused me to get into a serious rear end accident. I was driving 60mph on the highway and it went from 60 mph to 10 mph just like that cars on the highway swirved to miss hitting me and I was almost rear ended. The car completely stalled. A gentleman stopped to help me push it off the road. . Vehicle and I sat for alomost an hour waiting for tow service. Service dept. Coded the vehicle with a crank shaft censor problem and a recall as well for the front end cross member rusts out and cause bad settling and excessive tire pressure from the errosion not supporting the sub frame.

On 10/6/14 I was driving to school at 6:00 am on a single lane back road. Without warning the speedometer stopped working (went to zero), and the abs, brake, anti-skid and check engine lights came on. Because of my location I had to keep driving until I got to a safe area. The whole time there was no way of telling my speed or know if my brakes were working normal. After I shut it off and restarted, it went back to normal. When I got home we checked the error codes and found "u1110 lost vehicle speed, u1120 lost wheel distance and u0416 invalid data received from dynamic ctr 1. We cleared the codes to see if it happened again. It was fine until this morning 10/10/14. I started the car and after about 30 seconds or so the same thing happened. I drove another car to school. My dad checked and found the same error codes. Now I don't think it is safe to drive, not knowing when it may occur again. I looked on line and noticed others with the same problem. Can you help? my dad is handling this problem for me so I am putting down his contact info.

While driving my car my transaxle overheating light will illiminate. My car will slow down and not keep the speed up. I have to pull over until the light goes out then I can continue my driving but it will do it all again 10 miles down the road. This happens about an hour after driving it on the highway at 70 mph I was just on a trip 2 hours from home. In a 30 minute time frame I had to pull over 6 times because of this. I have not taken it to the dealership and it has not been fixed. I have noticed many people are having the same problem why has this not been recalled yet?.

I have 2007 Dodge cabiler and was driving the electrical system was make the car shut down all my lights and signal lights was not working. I was on the expressway and my sigal lights or nothning was working.

2007 Dodge Caliber. Consumer writes in regards to accelerator problems. The consumer stated the accelerator pedal was replaced, but no luck resolving the loss of power problem. Also, the abs light illuminated and a bell would start alarming when the accelerator didn't react after being pressed. The consumer believed the throttle body gear wore the sprocket down on the lowest gear.

Purchased this car four months ago with 79,300 miles on it. Within a couple of days it started acting up, not wanting to start. I went to the advance and they checked the battery, starter, and alternator. Machine said replace battery so I did for $150 with 5 year warranty. Left and within an hour still did not want to start. Seemed like it was prone to doing this while sitting up or down hill and not flat on pavement. It was as if it wanted to start and was making starting noises and it had to catch and then start up. I called the dealership from which I purchased the car and they looked at it no charge and it just would not do it again. Guess what it still does it now and of course the freebies are over because it was no warranty. I did purchase an extended warranty just in case. About a month ago it started jerking I was describing it as over shifting. As I proceeded to come off an exit ramp to merge into traffic which was going 60 mph my car started jerking really bad and my etc light started flashing, very scary I could have gotten hit by oncoming traffic. I slowed to 55 mph and the light went off. Went to the Dodge dealership and they said throttle body was so dirty it needed cleaning. I got it cleaned this past Friday and guess what was happening by Saturday. Went back to the dealership today and told the service advisor to drive it with me in there and it showed out. He speed up on the freeway and the light came back on flashing and we were going so slow he turned on the hazards. Pulled over turned it off and back on and light was off we went back to the dealership and I have to drop it off tomorrow to see if anything can be figured out. I'm sure you guys know the drill. By the way my extended warranty does not cover throttle body assembly go figure. So yeah rough four months and only 83,000 miles on the car now. We need a recall on this model and a few more.

Driving down the street at about 30mph and the car started jerking really bad the soon it died I went down and diagnosed it, come to find out the throttlebody is bad and seems to have happened to almost every Caliber sebring owner.

While driving on I-695 the etc light starts to flash and the car becomes crippled. After restarting, the car is fine for a few days until the light cuts on and off occasionally. Now the etc light stays lit even after restarts. Taking the car to the dealership to see if it is covered by the platinum warranty.

I was driving on a highway going about 55-60mph when lights on my dash came on and my rpm dropped drastically. All of the suddenr I could not excellerate and my car lost speed almost instantly. The first incident I was able to pull off the road to safety. This issue continued a few times after and finally it caused another vehicle to hit the rear bumper of my car. There was no damage or injury since we wereat a slow speed but it could have been worse. I had my car to Dodge dealerships and tbeycould not find the issue until recently when I took it and they said my trottle body was bad. I only have about 79,000 miles on the car and this is not a part that should,d go bad that fast.

I bought my 2007 Dodge Caliber awd in may of 2012. After I had my daughter in March 2014, I realized that my car was going crazy! she was in the nicu and I had to go see her as often as I could, which these problems prolonged her stay. When I started the car, sometimes it wouldn't start. . . . Bought a new battery, so that wasn't it. . . Then my hazards, gauges (except gas gauge) and a bunch of lights all flashed and it dinged at the same time. I havent been able to get a tow to the dealership, get to doctor appointments ( I am disabled) or get my daughter to her appointments. This has been a huge burden on me and my family, and I wish I never bought this car, and I will never buy from them again. Ever.

I was on my way to work and getting onto a freeway entrance, when right when I was merging, my car completely lost throttle control and bogged down. It was very foggy outside and a semi truck almost ran into the back of my car. I was able to get off the freeway and home with my car in what is known as limp mode. There was no check engine light, only a red lightning bolt light, and my esp (traction control) was on also. Upon doing some research I have found that the electronic throttle body goes out in these cars quite a bit. No body in my city had one and luckily I was able to source one from another state. Everyone that was out said they were on back order. This further confirmed my thoughts that this is a common problem along with reading about 10 other cases and a car forum where this has happened to many member there also. I understand things wear down and break and need to be replaced, but with my car only having 70,000 miles on it I find it a little ridiculous, and on that forum there are some where their throttle bodies have gone out at 30,000 miles. I'm just surprised that no body has been seriously injured or killed in accident because of this issue. One particular member on the forum I read he stated that the car had completely died on him in the middle of a busy intersection. I have a 4 year old son and it just bugs me to think that what if I had him in the car and that semi wasn't able to move out of the way in time? all I'm asking is that Dodge either makes a better quality throttle body and puts out a recall or at least replaces the throttle body under the recall for free. I have wrote to Dodges customer complaint department, but have not heard anything back so I figured maybe I would try here and see if anything can be done.

Car was already warmed and driven for about 5 miles, after stopping at a gas station to refuel and re-starting, it was idling very inconsistently and running rough, shaking. There was a dash indicator for electronic throttle control flashing. I tried driving it and there was jerking and pulling and the transmission wouldn't shift past 2nd, car would not accelerate beyond 12-15 mph. I made it home (about 2 miles) and left the car for about 6 hours. Upon restarting and warming, the car drove fine. About 1 1/2 weeks later, the same dash light came on, steady not flashing, car rumbled, then light went off and the car was fine. This happened on and off for about 2 weeks. Then, when ready to leave from work one day, I started the car to warm it and the indicator light came on and stayed on, the car was running very rough, idle was fluctuating between about 500-1500 rpms and shaking. I left the car, assuming when I came back the next day it would start and be fine just like the 2 times before, but that was not the case. I drove the car to a nearby mechanic, maxing out at about 15 mph, strangely the car seemed to pick up speed when I eased off the accelerator, and steady loss of speed while going up hill. The mechanic could not fix or even diagnose the problem, said it has to go to the dealer. It seems to be something to do with the throttle control. I will update it once I hear from the dealer later today.

My car's speed accelerate/jumps when struggling to get to second gear.

I was stopped at a stop light. The light turned green and I stepped onto the accelerator pedal. As I was accelerating up a hill the entire plastic pedal broke off from the firewall and fell onto the floor. I was able to get off of the road safely, but the car is useless without a pedal.

Ignition key can be removed from any position. Drive, nuetral, reverse or any. This lets vehicle key be removed without being in park position. The 2012 Dodge Caliber can just roll away. Caught car a few times rolling. Now had a very recent serious crash. It was sitting behind house and rolled down a steep hill through trees, wiith body damage. It was stopped by trees and winched out of the woods. Did not hit neighbors house below and no one was in the car to be injured.

See all problems of the 2012 Dodge Caliber 🔎.

My Dodge Caliber 2012 sxt still under warranty had a failed manufacturer component, the 'shift interlock assembly' which controls drive, park, reverse, nuetral and all transmission settings. Vehicle was parked on blacktop area behind my house and rolled forward. It plunged headfirst down a steep hill hill crashing through back yard forest. Trees eventually stopped the vehicle. Neighbor's houses and a public road were at the base of hill. The vehicle was unoccupied. Tied car off to a tree to prevent roll over. Car is now at a Dodge dealership. Chrysler corporation is sending an 'independent' Chrysler inspector who then sends a damage report to Chrysler. Then a 'special investigation' will follow. No estimate on when Chrysler may respond. Ongoing lack of urgency in Chrysler corporation response cannot be penetrated. Car was in the woods for 2 days and now in shop for the 3rd day. Dealership has been accomodating and provided a rental car for 5 days. The manufacturer safety component that failed creates great potential for injury and damage.

I have had this happen to me twice now. The first time back on 9-4-13 and again now 11-18-13. For some reason while driving it I will loose acceleration it won't go more than 5 miles when applying the gas. The first time I was a light getting ready to make a left hand turn. After my turn I notice the car would not go faster then 5 miles, even with the pedal to the floor. And again the other day, I got in it and backed up, put in drive and the same thing. The only way to correct the problem is to turn the car off and restart the car. Now dealership is saying again there is nothing wrong with it. Plus I have filed a complaint with Chrysler and not getting much from them. I do not feel safe in my own car, I have a child. This is a accident waiting to happen.

Driving down the highway, all of my dash lights came on-battery, fuel, temp, etc. Car lost speed and became sluggish. Lost power steering and pulled over. Car immediately died and would not go into park. Locked up completely. After about 30 mins, it started back up and ran for pax 3 blocks before doing it again. Had it towed. Replaced the alternator, then 3 weeks later same issues. Replaced the battery. Did not fix it. Now told its a common issue for the Dodge Caliber and is the control module which is a 1000 dollar part plus labor. And that Dodge is aware of the issue and has not recalled them. I do not feel I should be stuck with the costs of a major repair that is a design flaw from the manufacturer that they have been aware of for years and is obviously a hazard when it shuts down immediately while driving with no warning. My two young children and 84 year old grand mother were with me in 100 degree weather on the side of the highway for hours while waiting on a tow and a family member to come get us since we couldn't ride in the tow truck. After reading forums online, hundreds if not thousands of Caliber owners have had the same issue. Some had cars that were only two weeks old! I would like to request an investigation and hopefully a recall happen.

The contact owns a 2007 Dodge Caliber. The contact stated that after the vehicle approached a stop sign, the accelerator pedal had to be depressed numerous times to increase speed. The vehicle was not repaired or diagnosed. The manufacturer was not notified on the issue. The approximate failure mileage was 94,000.

On my way home from work I stopped at a light and my car jerked and acted as though it was about to shut off and my check engine light came on and then the car would not accelerate very well. I went back to my work and had the mechanic check it (I work at a school transportation) and the light said it was the crankshaft position sensor so I got it replaced and it did nothing so we went ahead and replaced thr camshaft as well and it worked for a week or so then started off and on. My headlight also stopped working and I replaced it 3 times before wondering what the heck! I just recently was cited a ticket due to the light and since I was not able to fix it I had my license suspended and was driving without knowing and ended up getting pulled over again but instead of explaining that my car sucks I was arrested and put in jail for a couple hours so now I have two court dates coming up one for my fix it ticket not getting fixed and another for driving on suspended because of not getting the part fixed so it is starting to become a major issue for my whole life in general. My car dies at almost every stop light and if I go over 2rpm it will not acclerate. I had to replace major parts such as; motor mounts, struts, pistons, calipers, brakes, batteries, etc in just the short time ive owned the vehicle which was very hard for me since I dont make much money. The car is wired very odd and my father is my go to mechanic but he couldnt figure out some of the parts. I dont have the finances for the tpim and figured it would be recalled by now since its a major problem with most Calibers so I stuck it out but now I dont know whats going to happen. As of today, August 24, 2015, my car is not running since it lost all power last night, first the radio stopped, then the ac stopped blowing, then the lights that work started to dim, and then it just died. Please help!!!.

After turning on my car it began to lunge while in idle. As I attempted to back it out of the driveway the accelerator pedal had little to no effect. The car would not drive more than 10 mph, still lunging. The indicator light for the electronic throttle control (etc) lit up and started blinking. I took it into the dealer and the diagnostic ($150) proved it to be the etc. The etc kit needed to be replaced which apparently is a "dealer only" part. This is such a common occurrence for Dodge that the etc kit is on back order and will not be available for 2 weeks! not to mention the part costs $600+. And by the way, I had to have the transmission replaced in 2011!.

The vehicle had numerous throttle issues and air conditioning issues that numerous auto service shops were not able to fully take care of. When the vehicle was at a stop and the accelerator was pressed, lightly and normally the car would accelerate inappropriately and kind of jerk forward. In addition, when turning and the accelerator is pressed normally the car would seem to lose power and seem to glide into the turn and then jerk forward. These throttle issues were never fully explained or fixed. After a while the car dash started flashing a red electrical bolt and the car would shutter and shake and lose all power. Initially, when this occurred I was able to just turn the car off and wait and then turn it back on and it would function for a while. Also, if the car was idling at a stoplight or parked the electrical bolt would flash and the car would start to shake. After some time the vehicle's left low beam headlight went out. When replaced it still did not work. The vehicle's alternator and battery were checked and found to be functional. Within a week after this occurrence the vehicle could not be started without a "jump" and even so would lose power once parked and could not be started again. I returned the car to the auto mechanic, specifically an auto electrician, and was told it was the totally integrated power module that needs to be replaced at a cost of $700 plus labor. In response to this I researched the part and came across numerous people with the same problem and the same eventual diagnosis. The car has been essentially undrivable and unsafe. There was the constant worry that the electrical problem would happen while on the expressway and cause very unsafe conditions for myself and others on the road. It is my opinion a recall needs to be issued for this problem.

I had been driving for a few hours at approximate 65 mph. Some of which was on cruise. All of a sudden my vehicle started slowing down. My speedometer said 60 mph. However, I was probably at 30. I stepped on the gas and the rpm went high but I didn't get any speed. Basically, the speedometer wasn't recording the speed I was at and the transmission was not working in increasing speed. I had it towed back to phoenix and the Dodge dealership in mesa, az checked it over and told me that there was a "fluke" with the ctv transmission in this model and they had been seeing a lot of this as people were driving from phoenix to flagstaff which is a gradual increase over a number of miles and people were having the same issues that I did. I was told the the cvt transmission goes into "limp" mode when this happens and basically shuts down. I was also led to believe they could do nothing about it. I'm surprised there isn't a recall on this model and transmission. When I goggled 2010 Dodge Caliber transmission problems, I came up with a utube video documenting exactly what I had experienced.

On the day of the incident my car started jerking and acted like it would die when I gave the car gas. I took it to a mechanic who did an oil change and checked the engine codes. I picked the car up from that mechanic and the car was still doing the same thing. I took it to another mechanic and they updated the computer on the car, changed the plugs and flushed the motor. The car is still doing the same thing. The other day I was excellerating up a hill and the red lightning bolt light came on the car was still running but was not getting any gas. I pulled over and stopped the car and started it again and did not excellerate or anything till I got to my distination. Seems like this is a problem with this car that needs to be delt with. I have spent over $400 trying to solve a problem that seems to be a problem with this type of Dodge.