Brake Master Cylinder problems of the 2011 Jeep Grand Cherokee

The brake booster stopped working while I was driving with my family going 55mph coming to a complete stop. Come to find out there was a recall for the break booster (p14) indicating that corrosion may occur and water could be ingested. Chrysler put a shield (band aid) to prevent corrosion. This recall was performed and marked complete on my vehicle. One year and 7 months later my brake booster fails and the ever so helpful and friendly(that was sarcasm because they were horrible) associates at my local Chrysler dealership did a diagnosis, determining that corrosion was not cause of my break booster failing. So now I have my personal mechanic replace the part. The part ordeed did not fit. Also, the master cylinder is leaking. So now I need both parts, which will cost me in the upper area of $290, nor including tax. This is an obvious issue with the brake booster part. The whole part is deffective for the make, modle and year. Chrysler is simply needs to replace the whole part. Not put a shield(band aid) it hoping it will hold. I am not the only customer out there who is experiencing this same issue.

My brake booster blew. Now awaiting brake booster and brake master cylinder. My Jeep is still in dealership garage. Jeep liaison is now telling me April 2 is delivery date of parts, this date seems to change weekly. Stating this is manufacturer's date of (out of stock parts) delivery to dealership.

The brake booster on this vehicle failed causing the brakes to be nearly nonfunctional. The vehicle could be brought to a stop but only with both feet on the pedal pushing as hard as you can. This vehicle only has 50,000 miles on it used to commute about 40 miles to and from work on rural roads. So very little breaking is needed. The brake booster which failed was back ordered for 2 to 3 months and I was number 59 in line for one. My dealer had to use a booster from a salvage yard to get me back on the road. The master cylinder also had to be replaced because of an o ring failure which required replacement of the entire master cylinder. This should not be happening on such a new vehicle and if there are so many, why not a recall? this was paid for out of my pocket. I love Jeep, but this is a bit much.

When trying to come to a stop, the brake pedal goes as far as allowed and vehicle continues to roll for 5, 10, 15 ft. The brakes operate as normal at speeds, but when you try to stop, it doesn't happen as expected. The dealership replaced the master cylinder and power brake booster. They would not cover the costs as it's out of manufacturer warranty, luckily I purchased the lifetime bumper to bumper extended warranty and they wanted me to pay the deductible associated with that policy. I was not happy with that either so I called Chrysler directly, they in turn called the dealership and told me to talk to the service manager to see if he'd waive the deductible. I was surprisingly successful at getting the deductible waived, but he did not have to. A vehicle with 43k should not have these issues and I see that I'm not the only one with this problem, therefore that is why I'm reporting it. I picked vehicle up 10/18/2013 and it seems to be braking normally at this time.

Upon slowing down at normal deceleration rates, the brakes lost power allowing car to roll through a stop sign. The issue is intermittent and does not exhibit any observable pattern (outside temperature, etc). The dealer first said it was the rotors glazing, but the issue continued after the dealership turned them and the frequency has not reduced. The second visit found no issues after it was again reported. A third party resource indicated that it could be the master cylinder gasket/seal. Since this issue does not occur regularly and has not been "observed" by the dealership, the dealership will not replace the part. Since it does happen at a rate of only 1-2 times per week, it is tough to compensate for and/or predict when it will occur causing lack of confidence. Other notes are that abs does not kick in during the loss of power and the pedal is pushed in as far as possible with the car still moving forward between 5-10mph only decelerating slightly.