Manifold/header/muffler/tail Pipe Problems of Mazda MAZDA3

Within a week after purchasing my 2010 Mazda 3 s sport sedan in October, 2018 from a used car dealer in midvale, ut, the check engine light came on. Using a code reader, I consistently get a code of p0421, which indicates that the catalyst efficiency is below threshold. I have had 3 auto repair shops look at my car, and they all say that the catalytic converter is not operating properly and needs to be replaced. Despite the fact that Mazda warrants California emissions/pzev vehicles (which mine is) for a period of 15 years or 150,000 miles on all emissions related components, they will not repair my car under warranty because I currently do not live in a state that uses CA emissions standards when testing vehicle emissions. I feel that since my car is not performing as it was designed and may be releasing my pollutants into the atmosphere that it should be repaired by the manufacturer at no charge to me, regardless of where I currently live. In addition, when I start the car on a cold engine, I can smell exhaust fumes inside the cabin, which leads me to believe that there may be a leak at the exhaust manifold gasket which could be dangerous to anyone driving the car if they inhale the exhaust gases that may enter the passenger area through the ventilation system. The check engine light continues to go on daily (unless I reset it, and then it goes back on again later after driving) and my car will not pass its next emissions inspection without this issue being fixed.

See all problems of the 2010 Mazda MAZDA3 🔎.

I developed a tick in the engine, took to dealer who diagnosed " the shutter valve inside the intake manifold was coming apart". Took it to another independent Mazda repair shop and was told "the valve is actually just stuck open". Both shops quoted a $1500 repair bill. This should not happen to a car that is only 5 1/2 years old. You can't just replace the plastic shutter valve, you have to replace the entire intake manifold (that part costs $1000). Since I only paid $14,000 total for the whole car, I am very upset with (my 1st and last) Mazda. I will repair and sell ASAP.

See all problems of the 2005 Mazda MAZDA3 🔎.

The contact owns a 2004 Mazda3. She stated that the vehicle could be driven as an automatic or a manual. While driving 20 mph in manual mode she attempted to shift gears, to no avail. She had to take her foot off of the gas pedal in order for the gears to release and afterwards the gears started to shift on their own. She was able to exit the freeway when the vehicle lost all power, but continued to accelerate. She was unable to stop the vehicle or make a turn. The vehicle began moving from one lane to another and accelerated through a red light to avoid a collision. The vehicle stopped accelerating within in a few minutes. The vehicle was towed to a local mechanic who diagnosed the failure as the intake manifold. The intake manifold melted, damaged the sensor and the catalytic converter. The mechanic replaced the catalytic converter, sensors, and the gaskets; however, she had to add oil to the engine because the engine light illuminated constantly. She took the vehicle back to the mechanic who stated that the engine also needed to be replaced. She contacted the manufacturer and filed a report; however , the manufacturer stated that they would not assist with the repairs. The engine was not replaced. The failure mileage was 25,000 and the current mileage was 75,000.

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The contact owns a 2004 Mazda 3. Since 2007, the contact heard a ticking noise in the engine. The noise intensified and the dealer stated that the intake manifold was the cause of the failure. The repair would cost $1,036. The contact attempted to call the manufacturer as well. The VIN was unknown. The failure mileage was 82,200.

Engine makes noise and vibration when trying to cool.

See all problems of the 2008 Mazda MAZDA3 🔎.

Vehicle has excessive vibrations causing a detectable noise at the exhaust flange seal.