Electrical System Problems of Chrysler 200 - part 2

The car is constantly needs a jump start , and the pedal will not accelerate. I have had multiple diagnosis and they don’t know what it is- the cruise control component comes on at the beginning of the jump start until the car runs. Auto zone and midas has checked the battery, alternator, did a draw and they can’t find the issue. When driving the pedal will not accelerate- may have to pull over, and restart- then it works, until you disengage the car. They charged me over 30,000. 00 dollars for this vehicle and I’m still paying on it and I can’t even drive it because I feel unsafe, especially with the pedal. It’s too cold to get up and jump start a car every morning. I’m paying 460. 54 every month for a car that I don’t know that’s wrong with it- I purchase a warranty and though I didn’t hit the mileage they said it expired because it was for three years. This should be illegal. I really need to drive to get things done. There’s no lights coming to indicate a problem, please assist. It kept [xxx] cutting off and the cruise control, then it stopped. Tried to connect with Chrysler they said they were backed up, only speed issues, like accelerating faster than the mileage, now since it got cold - it won’t even crank up without a jump start, but all things checked and the mechanics can’t find the reason saying it’s electrical. Do you think Chrysler os messing with my car because that’s dangerous and this is stressful- I’ll send the police report need to find information redacted pursuant to the freedom of information act (foia), 5 u. S. C. 552(b)(6).

See all problems of the 2017 Chrysler 200 🔎.

Multiple issues, passenger window is a very common issue, looked on youtube and found many videos for it was able to jump with direct power to the pigtail using wires and a battery and was able to roll it up but no explanation for why it ends up having this issue, heater core also a consistent issue, it is obvious with passenger side goes cold and 95% of the fix is a new heater core. Headrests popping, had the safety recall done 02chz28 (recall s61) and never was mentioned or brought up by local dealer, both seatbelts are not functioning properly, passenger side is the worst, locks up and both are running along the plastic causing it to become deformed and wearing on the edges of the belts. Vehicle has obvious replacements on the front but no accident history. Hood is a different VIN number and grill is not original from factory. I found the original photo of the car's first sale post. Odd malfunction is washer fluid can run out with no indicator being triggered for low fluid.

See all problems of the 2013 Chrysler 200 🔎.

Moss brothers sold me a stolen car the metal bintag is missing the 2nd key missing air bags tampered I paid it off 2 days ago the car dangerous swaying wrong break petal and gas the seats the frame not safe and the bin number shows a sunroof they sold me a salvaged car here's the engine a rustedengine the windshield unsafe corporate the car is dangerous and marked parts the tire can off a nd shuts off in traffic the tires unsafe airbags tampered I only let moss brothers service the dealership fid this I have a stolen unsafe tire pressure system and insurance fraud my VIN number and lies under reports switched parts the trunk welded then nolesco sued me a auto strident in palm springs with a steven neubauer never met him they keep lieing and the engine disappeared the seat stering wheel and mileage tampered it's to where I'm black a woman and lieing police reports please it drove threw traffic pick up speed the voltage they stole the control module a salvaged switched VIN I lesley annette ranselle never had a accident I located my original car they went to police officers choked drug me I was was in jail 3 weeks they went threw my property in jail yolks it out of town the dealership did this check cameras the finance manager walked me to the trunk pulled they key out opened it right now no key hole the car all led lights stole all rusted old parts carpet tore out it was a inside job they keep breaking in cut the hoses its to where they said because I'm black I won't win I want my parts please I paid off a stolen switched VIN please and took my title pac auto carmela real name stella sad my tile because I used a debit they hold on to my mother and father involved no body calls my part numbers please their threatening me coming to my job novelex fests they have the second key it's bparked it the light so dim I can't drive at night I want my car and I'm no race car driver they stole a hot rod engine the car sits to low it was turned into a hot rod 2.

See all problems of the 2015 Chrysler 200 🔎.

The car keeps acting like it goes in to neutral and cuts out all the time sensors keep popping up saying engine is overheating engine temperature sensor the check engine light keeps popping up and the engine temperature thing keeps going away.

The contact owns a 2015 Chrysler 200. The contact stated that while driving at an undisclosed speed, the front driver’s side door displayed smoke near the window. As a result, the window failed to operate. The contact turned off the vehicle, shifted in park to inspect the vehicle however, the contact stated that the vehicle failed restart. A message displayed on the instrument panel “service transmission “and the parking brake warning light illuminated. Additionally, the contact stated that on numerous occasions while driving at approximately 25mph, the vehicle failed to shift in the intended gears. The dealer was notified of the failure and the contact was informed that the VIN was included in the NHTSA campaign number: 15v090000 (power train), NHTSA campaign number: 15v461000 (equipment) and NHTSA campaign number: 15v470000 (electrical system). The vehicle had not yet been diagnosed or repaired. The contact was currently awaiting a tow. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 143,348.

The radio screen sounded as if it shorted out, went blank, and now my battery dies if I don't run my car every day. My odometer flashes and my engine light is on, but the engine codes that come up are related to the evap. System integrity module, and the active grille shutter that I'm sure need replacement due to age. I'm not sure if there is indeed a short, but my battery has been replaced three times (this time being the fourth) since 2019 which seems excessive leading me to believe that there may be one. When reaching out to my local dealership I am advised to bring in for them to look at which costs $150. 00 just for the service department to troubleshoot. I during a previous recall I was informed that it costs $1800 to replace the radio. Upon further review I discovered that I am not the only owner with this same issue. Several owners have has this happen to their vehicles. I believe this is worth looking into.

Available upon request. Switching gears could be a hazard. Mechanic said a previous recall for issue was fixed. It has been sitting at the mechanics for 4 months. Vehicle ran fine in the morning. Went to drive and vehicle switched from park to neutral and break system lights came on. I went to try a few hours later and the car was dead and would not start. We tried to jump the car and it would not work.

I believe the brake or something related to the brakes failed. I ran a stop sign, with no evidence of brake marks on the road. I crossed over a highway hit a side walk almost hit a house. The safety of myself and others was at extreme danger. When finally came to a stop I couldn't put my car in park, or back in drive or shut my car off, I beleive I had no braking or something electrical failed. My car is totaled. The only light on was the airbag light before the accident.

See all problems of the 2016 Chrysler 200 🔎.

The first time this incident occured I was driving in a residential neighborhood and my horn started randomly honking. Over the past few months the horn will randomly start honking and will continously honk for long periods of time. The horn will blast for miles and there is nothing that I can do to make it stop. I have been pulled over because of this and it's terrible driving at night with the horn blaring. The horn does not work regularly anymore. Then my car started shutting off while driving with no warning lights and total loss of anything that is powered (steering, brakes, etc). I have had to pull over on the freeway in unsafe areas, stuck in the middle of intersections with kids in the car also. After shutting off sometimes I am able to start it right away and it will be fine and other times it wont start and after some period of time it will finally start. I replaced the battery and got a new key fob but neither one has fixed these issues. On top of the random horn blaring and car completely shutting off while driving I now have begun having issues with my transmission. It started randomly not shifting while driving causing me to have to pull over and restart the car after about 5 mins. I have had to pull off the freeway to restart my car. The transmission issue was random at first but I haven't been able to drive my car at all because it will not shift after 10 mph. It is automatic with manual option (which I never use) but it will not shift gears in auto mode or manual. The horn blaring is not only embarrassing but the loudness of it is detrimental to a persons hearing. I have read many reports of this particular car having these same issues and the fact that it completey shuts off without warning and loss of power steering,brakes is extremely dangerous especially when traveling on freeways/highways at 70mph not only for me and my children but the other drivers around me. I have not had it diagnosed or repaired by a mechanic due to the transmission issue.

See all problems of the 2012 Chrysler 200 🔎.

The contact owns a 2015 Chrysler 200. The contact stated while starting the vehicle, the check engine warning light illuminated. The vehicle was taken to autozone, where it was diagnosed that the threshold, the throttle pedal sensor switch a, the transmission gear shift assembly and other unknown parts had failed. Additionally, the contact stated that vehicle had become undrivable and would not start upon pressing the push to start button. The message "key fob not detected" was displayed. The brake pedal and steering wheel were locked. The contact related the failure to an unknown recall. An unknown used car dealer was notified of the failure and informed the contact that the parts were not available for the repair. The Chrysler dealer and manufacturer were not notified of the failure. The vehicle was not repaired. The failure mileage was approximately 152,000.

One day without warning (about 8/20/2023), the vehicle would not start. After too many attempts the vehicle went into a security lock out. Had a mobile locksmith come and issue 2 new key fobs, and he was able to get the car unlocked and started. Car ran fine for about 4 days and then once again would not start. Car was towed to dealership where I was advised it was a bad battery. Battery was replaced 9/6/23. No issues for just over 1. 5 months. Then, without any warning, all of the lights on the dashboard lit up on 10/30/23 (everything from the battery light, to the check engine, to even the "service parking break" alert). The car even lost power steering. Luckily, I had enough time to pull into a parking lot and get the car parked in a spot. The car then lost its ability to start. Car was then towed to same repair center where they then advised me it was a bad alternator, and everything wrong was because of a non-oem sound system placed in the car (this was installed in June of 2020 and has run with zero issues) - they stated the alternator needed to be replaced. No mention of a bad alternator was reported in the first inspection of the same issue. Alternator was then replaced at a different repair facility. Somewhere between the two facilities, the additional sound system was disconnected from power from the car and is no longer active. It is also important to note the system is hooked up to secondary battery, not the main battery in the front of car. In all, the car went back into the first repair facility from 10/30/23, was towed to the second on 11/6/23, and was finally returned 12/12/23. Even though it was at the first repair facility for a week, no repairs were done until it was towed to the second. However, today (12/14/23) just two days after getting the car back with no non-oem sound system active, I am having the exact same issues for which I initially brought it to the first repair center. All of the lights on the dash went on and I lost power steering.

The contact owns a 2011 Chrysler 200. The contact stated while driving at various speeds, the instrument panel went dim and the radio became inoperable. The contact also stated that the headlights were flickering while driving. The contact related the failure with the NHTSA campaign number: 13v282000 (electrical system, air bags) however, the vehicle was not included in the recall. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired by an independent mechanic or local dealer. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was unknown.

See all problems of the 2011 Chrysler 200 🔎.

My vehicle has 3 recalls on it that are essential to the safety of the driver and those in the vehicle with the driver and they are refusing to cover this because I am not the original owner. I feel like this is not right considering that this is a Chrysler issue and they should be responsible for it. The car cuts off without warning due to the recall issue I could be on the highway, in a parking lot or just cruising in my neighborhood and it cuts off,.

Car has been stalling during deceleration, braking and at stops. The issue was fixed only in one model when multiple years of this make and model was doing the same thing. The issue started in 2011 and was supposed to be addressed in 2012 but the actual recall to fix it was actually only for 2015 but I almost got into an accident by stalling. I bought the car & it started some days later in which the seller assumed it was fixed. After taking it to pep boys and getting other repairs it resulted in a $2k repair and its still stalling at stops and when slowing down. Why was the issue only fixed in 2015 models if it was made aware in 2011-2012? those models would need that recall repair also. I have not been able to drive it continuously without it cutting off for a full day and nobody can figure out why because no codes are coming up. When researching I found a forum where it was suggested this was a major issue that was never rectified by Chrysler. They closed the investigation but did not service all cars with this issue.

I was driving down the road and my car stalled and completely shut off power steering went out as well come to find out it had a recall for the issue but cannot seem to see if it was ever fixed and can not see that it fixed or not or if it would be covered under the recall as it was recalled in 2015.

Throttle- my car just shut off and won't turn back on I had a computer update last week and then a week later I shut the car off like normal and tried to turn it back on and it wouldn't do nothing. The dealership did a pcm update of service bulletin 18-020-17 on 6-1-23. I had drove for 2. 5hrs without any warning lights or anything suggesting a problem.

Car has always ran great no problems. I go to leave house and as soon as I drive maybe 100 ft all the dash lights came on started flashing and chimming. Engine also reved up which was crazy I was terrified of rear ending someone. I hit brake but it kept doing it. Ive had two different shops run a scan and they say too many codes to know. And tell me to take to dealership. I bought car brand new back in 2012. I just need to know what to do now?? the speedometer went to zero and cold hot hand went to c its like the computer wasnt sending messages to the proper places.

I was barely coming off of the freeway during traffic hour when my dashboard randomly indicated to shift into parking gear, which I did, and then the car turned off on me right before at the top of a downhill. I couldn't shift into neutral and couldn't get the car to turn back on. There I was in the hot weather with a car in the middle of the road right off of the freeway exit without a clue as to what happened. I had to get towed and the vehicle is now at the dealer; they won't be able to take a look at it until 5 days after the occurrence.

While backing up in my parking space, my car completly shut off. The steering was locked and the car would not start back up. I had to disconnect the battery to get it to restart.

On 5/8 a conversation took place with a Chrysler customer service representative which was recorded. The representative acknowledged that the tcm going out is common due to the transaxle control harness recall. The representative acknowledged this has not become a recall yet but this is a known problem and issue with the vehicles.

My vehicle Chrysler 200 2016 has several car mechanical issues. The shifting gears. Rough shifting while driving. The affected vehicle would lurch through gears, and it would sometimes shut down or automatically shift to neutral. Grinding or a crunching sound. Clutch slips or doesn't “feel right” burning smell or high engine revs. Car started rough, shifting and having transmission problems a year after we had it. Airbag sensor won’t turn off.

Radio not working. Headlights quit working. Replaced them both. Within 5 minutes, one bulb exploded. Next day it won’t crank.

The contact owns a 2015 Chrysler 200. The contact stated that while driving at various and after coming to a stop at stop signals, the vehicle was losing motive power. The contact stated that the failure was recurring and that on one occasion the vehicle lost motive power in the middle of an intersection. The vehicle was able to restart after multiple attempts. No warning lights were illuminated. The contact became aware of NHTSA campaign number: 15v470000 (electrical system) and NHTSA campaign number: 16v529000 (power train); however, the VIN was not included. The vehicle has not yet been taken to an independent mechanic or a local dealer to be diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was unknown.

The car has the error code p0934 which the car goes into limp mode when I was on the highway way making me almost crash.

The contact owns a 2015 Chrysler 200. The contact stated while driving approximately 20 mph and depressing the brake pedal, the vehicle lost electrical power, causing the brakes and the steering wheel to lock. There was no warning light illuminated. The contact was unable to veer to the side of the road. The contact was able to restart the vehicle and continued driving; however, the contact stated that the failure had been reoccurring increasingly while driving. The contact contacted carmax, the used car dealer who had sold her the vehicle, and an appointment was scheduled for diagnostic tests. The contact related the failure to NHTSA campaign number: 16v529000 (power train) and NHTSA campaign number: 15v47000 (electrical system); however, the vehicle was previously repaired under the recalls. The dealer and the manufacturer were not notified of the failure. The vehicle was not diagnosed nor repaired. The failure mileage was approximately 84,900.

2022 winter - had to spend 2,000. 00 replace the heater core. This should of been covered in my books. I called damion Chrysler to report this issue. They claimed they were not aware of such an issue. But if you look at all the reviews they say factory left extra gunck/sealer is why the heater quit blowing hot air on one side. 2023 summer - now my a/c isn't blowing cold air. But gargage was able to locate the leak and repair this. Have had both drivers & passengar window motors/regulators replaced 2020 - 2022 now in 2023 same issue with my back windows. Had power to it so replaced the master power switch with a 200. 00 new switch.

Car shuts off while idle.

The contact owns a 2015 Chrysler 200. The contact stated while the vehicle was parked, he noticed smoke coming from underneath the front driver's seat. The contact stated that he then saw flames underneath the driver's seat. The contact was able to extinguish the fire with a water hose. An unknown warning light was illuminated. There was no injury sustained. No fire department report was filed. The vehicle was taken to an unknown dealer, but was not diagnosed or repaired. The contact stated that he was a mechanic and upon taking the driver's seat apart, he determined that the seat heater failure had caused the fire. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 130,000.

The vehicle lost power and completely shut down while driving. I was unable to turn on emergency flashers or move the vehicle out of the street. There was no warning or indication lights on. The vehicle was taken to a dealer and a private mechanic and they were unable to diagnose problem. After disengaging the battery and waiting about an hour, then reengaging battery, all power comes back on. I have had six incidents of this happening and two of the incidents were while driving, putting me at risk of being struck by another vehicle.

The alternator went out and fried the battery. You could smell like something burnt then the dash lights started flashing like the traction control then the abs light then everything started flashing and the car died and was completely dead. Then when I had the dealer put a new battery in the car he said they had to unhook the alternator so it wouldn’t catch the car on fire. While I moved it, my son said his 300 Chrysler did the same thing and their was a recall on his, but theirs not one on the 200s.

While driving the car is in process. . The engine will suddenly stop (stall). I loose all power to the car and is unable to stop the car or control the speed or any other functions of the car. The only way to stop the car immediately is to manually use the emergency breaks. My 3. 6 liter engine is having the same engine defect as the 2. 4 2000 Chrysler 200 engine n52. . . Causing it to malfunction. Also sometimes when trying to start the car while turning the key in the ignition the engine begin to flood on its on and get completely stuck in that position. . And become unable to process to start and run. For about a year and a half I have been back and forth to the auto mechanic paying so much money trying to figure out what is going on with my car. Unable to fix of com up with a solution. My car has been more undrivable,in the shop and and unsafe then it has been driven. The last time I was driving my car with my [xxx] [xxx] child in the car the engine power failed and I was unable to stop . . We where coming on a 4 way traffic light going at full speed. . My light had turned red. Nothing I would do would stop or slow the car down. I'm so happy my child knows to pull the emergency breaks. . . He saved our life. This has happened multiple times b4 this last time but never to this extent. It seems the longer this issue is going the worst it's becoming. I began doing research on Chrysler 200 to see if anyone one else may have been having this issue to hopefully find a solution. Because this is my only car and I have put everything I have into this to get this car and to fix this car. . When I looked in to recalls I found that the 2. 4 liter engine for the 2000 Chrysler 200 was having the same engine defect as my 2013 Chrysler 200 3. 6 liter engine. . . So I would like to make a vehicle complaint about my car's engine defect causing the engine to malfunction which is a safety issue. Information redacted pursuant to the freedom of information act (foia), 5 u. S. C. 552(b)(6).

While driving the car on the highway it completely shut off and would not start. My dashboard is black and flashes. This could have been worse and put our life at risk. I have had so many issues on this car ever since I purchased it. I have taken it to a shop before and this will be my third time.

The car gives an error message of "engine warming wait to start" it will not crank. I've spent money for a new battery and a starter and it wasn't the fix. Hundreds of other consumers have reported this issue in online forums and to the maker and still no resolve. They stopped production of the car for this reason. Something has to be done.

My car will die sometimes upon acceleration and does not restart for up to an hour sometime. No check engine light comes on. From my research online, a lot of people are having the same issue and are reporting it to be a faulty pcm (powertrain control module). My rpm drops to zero and I have to coast to the shoulder of the road. It happens at least once a week.

I’ve had to replace the alternator twice in 7 months. The car has turned off both of these instances while I was driving. I’ve spent a lot of money on parts, labor, and towing. When I am parked, the rpm goes up and down, it sounds like I am accelerating but I am not. When I come to a stop, the rpm jolts up. When I am at a complete stop, and ready to drive, the car jolts forward as if it were pushed.