Gas Recirculation Valve (egr Valve) problems of the 2017 Chrysler Pacifica

The oil filter housing and oil cooler unit is made of plastic, mounted to the central engine (metal). It warped with heat and caused oil to leak into the valley of the engine and cause failure of bay 3 and 5 fuel injectors which caused multiple cylinder misfire. My engine experienced this problem for the first time in a busy intersection. With the engine heaving I had to pull over and tow the van to a shop. The faulty oil cooler unit was confirmed by dealership diagnostics and was not covered under warranty. I have the original part. This a recurring problem with many other drivers online and an aluminum aftermarket part has been made to solve this problem. The original part should be recalled and replaced by Chrysler. The egr hosing is made of brittle plastic and split/cracked of its own accord. I have pictures and most of the original hose.

Recall fail recall done in 2019 for egr and car is continuing to fail again years later. While driving car stalls and shuts off.

I purchased 2017 Chrysler Pacifica in 2021, I started having issues my vehicle after my 30 day warranty expired it seemed on and off at times now more noticealbe the start/stop feature failed to work properly. The vehicle stalled when the brake pedal was released I had to restart the vehicle. The contact disabled the start/stop feature. Additionally, while driving at night in the rain the vehicle acted up or started to blow hot air from the ac unit at 75 degrees with out the option to change it only way to restart was to turn on and off the vehicle. I also had problems with the coolant being low, and coolant was added. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic who informed the contact that the check engine and coolant lights were illuminated. The battery was faulty, and the start/stop feature was inoperable. A pressure test was performed however, the mechanic was unable to locate a coolant leak. The vehicle was taken to two mechanics egr cooler valve was cracked and my engine was damaged as well as the pistons. The vehicle had to have the whole engine replaced which was an expensive expense I had to pay out of pocket, the dealer did not cover the damage. The manufacturer was notified of the failure and referred the contact to NHTSA for assistance. The approximate failure mileage was 104, 000 or so. I still do not feel safe using this vehicle it is my family vehicle, please advised. I have invoices but not at the moment I had to replace the engine, the battery, the coolant container, and the radiator for a total amount of about $5000.

I have had engine problems for over a year now. My car has had constant issues with rough idling and also jerking while driving. The jerking has been fixed for now but the rough idling has became worse to the point where the car feels as if it will stall out. My car has been at the dealership for repair since 12. 22. 22 and is still there today 1. 11. 23 - I was told by another repair shop (while getting brakes and an oil change ) that my car had 3 holes in the crankshaft and that was a problem because there should only be 2 holes. The dealership has replaced an egr and now is talking about something on the engine to replace (but not the whole engine) and they have still not looked at the crankshaft to see if there are the incorrect number of holes. This is my primary vehicle and no one can seem to fix the problem.

The contact owns a 2017 Chrysler Pacifica. The contact stated the start/stop feature failed to work properly. The contact stated that the vehicle stalled when the brake pedal was released. The driver had to restart the vehicle. The contact disabled the start/stop feature. Additionally, while driving at night in the rain the vehicle overheated. The contact was able to restart the vehicle. The coolant was low, and coolant was added. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic who informed the contact that the check engine and coolant lights were illuminated. The battery was faulty, and the start/stop feature was inoperable. A pressure test was performed however, the mechanic was unable to locate a coolant leak. The vehicle was taken to the local dealer and diagnosed that the egr cooler valve was cracked. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure and referred the contact to NHTSA for assistance. The approximate failure mileage was 40,000.

30,390while cruising on interstate, (2/6/21, 3:17 pm, drizzling, 55 degrees f, at 70 mph in cruise control) instrument panel goes black, engine shuts off, power steering goes off, rt passenger window descends all the way, wipers go off, cruise goes off, gear indicator switches (on it's own from drive to neutral, to park. Coasting to side left of side of the (under construction) shoulder (rt shoulder is blocked by jersey barriers) instrument cluster comes back on. I shift from park to neutral, to drive, with no effect on drivability. I stopped off the roadway and shut off the ignition. Instrument cluster has battery and fcw warning lights on. There is a distinct smell of an electrical fire. I check under the hood to look for obvious fire sources. None are apparent. I checked the battery connection. This appears as normal for this vehicle, not tight � but not loose either. I checked the fuse box. I did not have a fuse indicator tool with me and did not attempt to pull fuses. Seeing no obvious fire sources I shut the hood. Five minutes after stopping I tried the ignition again and the car started. The rt passenger window was to 3� short of closed, then it stopped. I pulled back on the highway and resumed the trip. The fcw warning light was still on. Cruise control was unavailable. The driver's side mirror warning indicator was on. On 2/7/21 I checked the car. All power devices on the rt front door were not active. I checked the fuses and determined that at least one had failed (f47). I attempted to replace the fuse. In doing so the rt passenger window immediately returned to the fully closed position, the fuse blew as I put it in, the smell of burning electrical wire was apparent inside the cab, but not under the hood.

Engine stalls after idling for long period of time. Spent several hours driving at neighborhood speeds to house hunt. This would include idling with air conditioner going for several minutes before moving again. While beginning to move after being at idle for several minutes the car stalled and would not restart. Shut off car for a minute completely and tried to restart. It would idle but would not respond to pushing on the accelerator. After two more minutes with all power off, the car restarted. We drove a mile and the car stalled again. Was able to pull off safely and wait again for a couple of minutes. Restarted and got about a mile again before stalling. Waited three minutes and restarted and got two miles before stalling again. Pulled off waited again, this time was able to drive home. Thank goodness the traffic lights were with us. This car went into the dealer for the same reason last year for the computer reset/reprogram recall. It has happened twice since then. This situation would be almost impossible for any dealer to replicate as it takes several hours of driving and idling to occur. I will mention that I live in phoenix, az and the temperature was apx. 110 degrees on the day of this occurrence on Saturday July 20, 2019. The car has less than 7000 miles and was purchased in November of 2017. This does not occur under similar driving conditions when the temperature is below 90 degrees. For more explanation when the stall is being to occur, the accelerator no longer responds to the push on the pedal. You will have several seconds to pull off the road before the call engine stalls out completely and you lose brakes and steering.

Vehicle started having issues starting, the vehicle would not start once the start button was pushed. Once it did start and put into reverse or drive the vehicle would not move. I would have to turn the vehicle off, and on again several times before it would start. The vehicle would shut off and then turn back on while on the interstate whenever speed was reduced. The headlights would spontaneously shut off at night while driving, and could not be turned back on. The inside dash lights would also turn off making for a very unsafe situation. The air control also did not work properly. It would be very hot at 68 degrees, and would not blow a steady flow of air. It will speed up then slow down.

Wife and children in the van in August 2017 driving at around 55mph on highway. Message center told her to place vehicle in park before starting. Vehicle lost all power while in motion and she coasted to side of road. Would not start, towed to dealer dealer drove for 10 days before faulted on them. Chrysler repaired a "faulty egr. " August 2018, message told her that auto on/off needed service. Vehicle lost all power at 30mph on residential street. Took to dealer, they replace a battery for auto off/on. September 2018, while pulling into garage van put up message telling her to place vehicle in park before starting. All power lost and vehicle died. Van has been at dealer for 29 days. Currently has data recorder installed, and we are in contact with Chrysler enhanced customer service to figure out the problem.

Our 2017 Pacifica was repaired in the fall of 2017 under recall #t23 (egr valve function defect). Now, our vehicle is experiencing the stalling problems described in the more recent u01 recall. The Chrysler dealership refuses to apply the u01 fix to our car, stating that the earlier recall fix should have fixed the problem. At this time, the vehicle experiences intermittent stalls at low speed and at idle, and has slammed to an immediate stop if the issue occurs when moving. It is unsafe to drive.