Engine Clicking And Tapping Noises Problems of Ford Escape

I was driving from colorado to moab, utah in Feb 2025 when my car’s engine started making a ticking noise. It had only about 80,000 miles on it at the time and had never had any major issues in the past. I’ve only ever taken it to the Ford service department for regular maintenance and they do a multi point inspection every time—I went in January a month before the trip to moab and they had found no issues. I took it into 2 mechanics and both said I’d need to replace the engine. The diagnostic from Ford is below. Customer reports: c/s hearing a ticking noise coming from engine. Check and advise. Caused audible ticking noise around cylinder 3. No codes. Requires tear down to pinpoint. Advise engine replacement. Because both mechanics said we’d need a new engine for $6-9k we had to sell the car in moab and try to figure out how to get back home to colorado.

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2022 Ford Escape. Consumer writes in regard to clicking sounds coming from vehicle while driving.

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Today, 4/19/2020, two of my CO-employees noticed that my 2020 Ford Escape was making a ticking sound. I didn't hear the ticking sound until I was waiting in line at arby's drive-through at about 6:30 pm arizona time. . The ticking is coming from my engine area under the hood. The low oil level indicator light does not come on and there is no visible signs of an oil leak on the pavement where my Escape is parked. Could be bad spark plugs or camshaft. The Escape has been financed with alaska credit union and I have not made the first payment yet. $1,000 has been put down, $500 initially and $500 on a promissory note.

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Loud ticking noise coming from engine at idle and while driving. Sounds as though valves or engine could be cracking.

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While driving uphill on I-80 on a cool day in October, speed limit 65mph, out of no where, my 2014 Escape illuminated the check engine light, immediately followed by an "engine temp high, please stop safely" on the screen. I had never seen either of these warnings before so I immediately pulled over to the side of the highway and turned off the engine as it began smoking from under the hood. At this time the oil warning light illuminated red - within approx. 60 seconds, the engine made a loud popping noise and exploded into flames. I quickly evacuated the vehicle and ran down the highway, within minutes the entire car was in flames and was later ruled a total loss. This vehicle had been serviced by the Hyundai dealership it was purchased from 6 days prior and was given a "clean bill of health" by the mechanics.

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The contact owns a 2014 Ford Escape. While driving at an unknown speed, the engine made a loud popping noise and the check engine warning indicator illuminated. The vehicle was taken to wayne Ford (444 us-46, wayne, NJ 07470) where it was diagnosed that the engine needed to be replaced because it ingested coolant. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The contact stated that the vehicle was repaired per NHTSA campaign number: 17v209000 (engine and engine cooling). The approximate failure mileage was 75,000.

While in motion on the interstate doing 75 mph my car started making a ticking sound. I wasn't sure what it was at the time but I knew it was good. While getting off the exit I noticed my breaks were going out. They were very hard to push down and it barely made my car stop. I took it to a new by place that was able to read some codes. My check engine light had come on and the codes came up as cam shaft position sensor. I replaced the sensor and it did not fix the problem. I then took my car to the Ford dealership where I live. At this point it had died twice on the interstate and still made a horrible ticking sound. The dealership told me that my vacuum pump had come loose and the bolt had gotten metal in my engine which destroyed my engine. There were no warning signs when this happened and it happened very fast. My car started fine that day and drive fine up until the incident. This is a big safety concern and I've read several of people who had this same issue. I am now having to replace the engine and the turbo of my car out of pocket.

Loud clicking noise. Louder with time. Mechanic states crack between cylinders. Motor has to be replaced.

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I will be driving along and come to a stop for a traffic light stop sign or stop traffic and the engine will shut down. Also it will make a hesitate noise and a clunk noise. Right before it stops. I have taken into the Ford dealer and they could not find anything wrong with all the test they did. So today 11/13/2017, I am dropping my car off again at the dealer. The car was in motion. This has happened may times since oct. 2017.

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10/7/17 approx 6:30 pm while entering on ramp onto frway at approx 35 mph, driving dist of less than 1/2 to 3/4 mile from last parked stop, indicator dash memo of "engine temp high pull over safely", no indication on engine temperature gauge as it registered below mid mark. Pullled over on frway into closed lanes, turned off engine. Turned on again to advance 10 ft out of way of onramp vehicles, temp gauge indicated "h", turned off engine. Called for tow, tech could not start eng, battery dead. Towed home (less than 2-4 miles), engine off with ticking sound that could be heard across grill. Today, 10/8/17 this am checked coolant and empty. No indication of eng running "hot" or no fluid low indicator light/warning. There was never any warning lights, etc time driving from 9/27/17 thru 10/7/17. . 9/27/17 I had routine oil change, fluids checks w/receipt of dealer performing all work and checks prior to a trip of approx 346 mi ea way, traveled approx 20 additional mi from 10/3/17-10/7/17 and there was no indication overhting of engine and I had to expect coolant was full, not low as it was serviced approx 9 days prior. 9/27/17 I also specifically asked service rep and tech if fluids were checked both stated yes,okay, also indicated on service receipt. They perform a complete check of fluids, hoses, etc. To know if Ford Escapes, 2014 or others, have had complaints regarding overheating w/o warnings and/or if there is a possibility of this Ford engine having a record of these problems and complaints w/dealer who does all routine maint on my vehicle and any complaints r/t bell Ford, phx serdept regarding same issue? read Fordescape. Org there has been a recall for engines catch fire due to overhting/coolant, #17s09 is it valid? I will be arranging towing from my home to dealership my vehicle&performed last maint&oil change on 9 /27/ bell Ford, phxaz 85023.

Bought 2011 Ford Escape XLT used 5-27-2016 (private sale, chicago IL). Upon purchase, serviced at milwaukee area Ford dealership, found front control arms & bushings torn/loose. Next, front sway bars, outer tie rod ends, brakes and rotors needed replacement. In oct. 2016 engine/transmission major issues: leaking oil and trans fluid -no oil lamp or check engine light- car would run out of oil, pulled over added more. Trans slipping during accel/weak accel. Hard shifting w/high rpms. Rough idle. Ticking noise under hood when brakes applied. 12-6-2016 Ford dealership replaced gaskets & seals in engine & transmission- $2,000 repair. Upon driving car, issues continue, new issues present: trans slipping worse/bucking, car not accelerating when gas pedal depressed, car stalling in traffic, car lurching forward, car losing gasoline/smelling of gasoline. Broke down 12-8-2016 in parking lot due to fuel leak. Contacted aaa roadside assistance, returned to dealership, turned away. Fire dept cleared car for towing, fire hazard. Researched VIN, found recall for fuel delivery modulator flange, and field service action for electronic throttle body. Contacted Ford customer support, verified recall for my VIN. Advised to not operate vehicle. Area Ford dealerships refused to diagnose w/o charging. A service manager at a Mazda dealership diagnosed additional undisclosed repairs: a/c line ruptured, front driver's side sway bar snapped and control arm bushing separated; Ford mechanic had also left bolts & hoses loose/unclamped in engine. Steering and rear suspension deteriorating. Returned to dealership once more- turned away. Missed 1 month of work (driving is job). No rental provided, unwilling to reimburse. Filed dealer complaint. Filing consumer protection & disclosure lawsuit. Seeking class action lawsuit against Ford motor company. Car is dangerous, I refuse to operate it.

On several occasions after getting off the highway onto an exit ramp my vehicle has died with no check engine lights, it also shuts down when making a hard turn at slower speeds. I have had issues with the accelerator sticking when it is cold outside (several times having to manually shut off engine and coast to a stop in snow). I have currently started experiencing a #3 misfire and am currently waiting for parts to come. I have already replaced all spark plugs and number 3 ignition coil. I am waiting for other 3 coils to come in. If still shooting will try replacing seals. It also was "burning" oil then started to have an actual oil leak from main seal. I do the repairs myself and apparently these are known issues. I complained to Ford about the sticky accelerator and got no reply. It also makes a tapping sound from the cam shaft which I found out is typical of Ford Escapes.

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On several ocassions, vehicle security alarm sounded several times while trying to start engine. Alarm horn eventually deactivated after pushing key button during several starting attempts. Drove vehicle out of parking lot slowing for stop light and vehicle completely shut off. Major safety concern. Restarted engine and gauges swing minimum to maximum continually with air bag light on, check engine light on, theft light on. Gauges worked alternately during min-max swings, then stopped working completely. Day after occurence, new battery was completely drained and would not hold a charge. When trying to charge battery, vechicle had clicking sound in gauge console. Had vehicle towed to auto electrical mechanic who tells me it is a faulty dash console and not the vehicle computer and dash gauge console needs to be replaced at a new part cost of $700. Replacing dash gauge console with a new one to find if this fixes vehicle problems. Major consern if engine shutting down while driving.

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Tl-the contact owns a 2003 Ford Escape. The contact stated that while driving approximately 5 mph, the vehicle stated making a clunking noise. The vehicle was maneuvered to the side of the road. When the vehicle was observed the front tires were bent outward. The vehicle was towed to a dealer who stated that under pan needed to be replaced to repair the vehicle. The vehicle was not repaired. The contact referenced a NHTSA campaign id number 14v165000(structure, frame and members), however this repair does not totally repair the vehicle. The manufacturer was notified of the defect. The approximate failure mileage 79,000. Rg.

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I always kept the scheduled maintenance on my 2006 Ford Escape (85,000 miles). On christmas day 2013 my husband and I checked all of the car's fluids. Everything was fine. One week later as we exited the freeway, the car suddenly started to shake, loose power and make a very loud clattering noise. The oil sensor never went off and the engine light did not turn on until a few blocks later. Thankfully, we were able to make it home. I took the car in to our regular mechanics. The damage was so bad that they had to call in another mechanic in order to try and figure what the best solution could be. They said that the car needed 4 quarts of oil even though only a week before we had checked the oil. According to the mechanics the engine needs to be replaced and other parts in the car have also been effected.

Problems with gas pedal sticking/ locking up. While driving and sometimes when idle dash lights, a/c and radio turn on and off, then there was a clicking sound before the actual engine shuts off.

Tonight I was driving home doing about 55mph when my vehicle suddenly shuddered and lost all power. Luckily I was able to coast it to where it was mostly off of the road. It did not die but continued to shake while in high idle. The power steering was not working properly and no engine lights came on. Pushing the gas pedal produced zero results. I shut it down and pondered whether to try and start it back up or just call a tow truck. Being out in the country I decided to take a chance. It started up and ran fine. . . For less than two miles. . . When it repeated the same scenario only in a much more dramatic loss of power shudder and real rough idle. Wrench light came on. I took a picture of the display panels. Didn't notice the loss of power steering that time and the engine did not die. Called the dealership. . . No tow truck available. Took my chances again and drove it to the dealership since it was only a few miles further then going home. Didn't have any problem during that drive but detected an engine whine sound that I had never noticed before. Vehicle has 53,393 miles on it. Engine was pulled at 8k for oil leaks. Have had numerous incidents of shifting clunking sound at take off over the life of it. Have had brakes fail in reverse. Always pump them before backing out of my garage to make sure they're working ok that day. All work, right down to tire rotations have been done only at the dealership I purchased this brand new at. Luckily I purchased an extended warranty. Guess I'll learn tomorrow what's up with it this time. Sad to have a $28,000 vehicle that I've never really trusted since its early failure. Just thankful I wasn't still on the interstate moving along in 70+ mph rush hour traffic. I will never trust this vehicle again after experiencing this.

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Vehicle was travelling on highway when the vehicle shook and started to stall and shut off at 55 mph. The vehicle slowed down and the engine light and wrench light illuminated. Vehicle was shuttering and slowing down with the engine cutting out. I immediately attempted to get off the road in order to not have a rear end accident with any speeding vehicles traveling behind the car. Once car was shut off, vehicle had a clicking noise when turning the car over to start, then restarted to a normal condition. At 45 mph on a city street, 3 days later the same stall and engine cut out occurred.

Had regular oil change on 4/15/13 and about a week after. While coming to a stopped the vehicle just stalled without warning. Had to come to come to complete stop to put car in park and restart. Ran vehicle health report--nl. Went to dealer who did oil change and said they never heard of this car doing it . If happened again call roadside. 05/29/13 at 545pm car stalled again no warning. Called crown Ford set up appt for mon. 06/10. 6/7/13 558am car again stalled at about 35 mph no warning had to put in neutral apply brake to restart since I was on road with no shoulder and mid curve. Keep appt for mon. At about 423pm that day started car and engine fault noted on start tried to drive out of parking garage. Car was missing and barely moving. Transmission made loud clunk noise. Coasted car down parking garage so tow truck would be able to access it. Towed to crown Ford. Offered vehicle health report I ran stating it was powertrain issue. They declined needed it. Checked and replace map sensor. Picked up on 6/11/13 and 06/12/13 stalled again early in the morning about 600am and then I was advised to bring back to dealer. Stalled again on way to dealer approximately 1130 am. Advised service dealer they ran diagnostic for the next week which all came back normal. Service manager drove on 06/17 and stated problem reproduced and would replace throttle body. This was done and I picked up on 06/21. 06/23 at approximately 204 pm car stalled again. . . Restarted after putting in neutral unable to come to a stop vehicles behind us. . . Restarted when restarted engine missing again when pushed gas the transmission seemed to make a clunk noise and stalled again. The vehicle without notice stalls and is a great safety issue and after last stall the rpm seems to rev up some. This is a major defect and life threatening defect. Vehicle randomly stalls & now revs rpms.

Wife was driving her 2003 Ford Escape 2. 3l xls (fwd, 5-spd manual) at 65mph, practically coasting down a hill. 26 minutes after engine start she heard a loud bang and subsequent popping sounds. This was followed immediately by severe power loss from the engine. She drove it to the next best off-ramp, an additional 2 miles. When she got off the freeway she says she had to rev it up quite a bit to make an intersection to get to the gas station where the car rolled to a stop. That loud bang turned up to be the nbr 3 cylinder blowing its spark plug clean off the spark plug bore. The spark plug bore was completely threadless. The subsequent popping sounds were due to the spark plug not being on the nbr 3 cylinder as the fuel that continued to spray into the cylinder was burning off. The immediate power loss is a direct result of the engine loosing 25% of its chugga-chugga and the loss of the cht sensor signal which both then caused the pcm (powertrain control module) to go into limp mode and further reduce engine power. First thing I did was plug in my obdii scanner and check for codes. I found the following three: p0303 - cylinder 3 three misfire. P0353 - ignition coil 'c' primary/secondary circuit. P1289 - cylinder head temp sensor high input. I then performed a koeo (key-on/engine-off) check with my obdii scanner and found the following two codes: p0119 - engine coolant temperature circuit intermittent/erratic. P1289 - cylinder head temp sensor high input. The cht probe (cylinder head temperature) cover/boot was popped off the engine camshaft cover and the wires were broken off the cht probe electrical connector. The spark plug terminal broke off. The ignition coil pack was severely damaged (looked like an exploded cigar, cartoon style).

The contact owns a 2006 Ford Escape. The contact heard a loud clanking noise when he started the vehicle. The check engine indicator illuminated on the instrument panel and the engine shook violently. While driving less than 20 mph, the vehicle stalled and was towed to the dealer. The dealer stated that the engine failed, but the warranty was expired. In addition, the intake valves were off, which threw the pistons off as well. The combustion chamber was exposed and caused the engine to fail. The current and failure mileages were less than 33,392.

The contact owns a 2002 Ford Escape. The contact heard a popping sound when she turned off the vehicle. She then noticed flames coming from under the passenger side bumper. The dealer and manufacturer have not inspected the vehicle. As of August 2, 2007, the cause of the failure has yet to be determined. The current and failure mileages were 89,000.

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Engine started making a ticking sound - dealer said it has to be replaced. They also said they have replaced several others as the engine "blew" at high altitude - I bought this 2002 Ford Escape in colorado. The won't tell me exactly what's wrong and whether the new engine from the factory may also blow inthe future.

Problems with vehicle's engine, and windows. Prior to date, vehicle was serviced six times for: difficulty in cranking, clinking noises in the engine and difficulty with the idle. Despite the latest service, cranking and idling continued. Dealer was unable to repair the recurring problems which continued to exist. Consumer later discovered the rear window leaked. Consumer stated vehicle is a defective and inferior product.

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Vehicle was parked inside of carport and without prior warning heard a loud bang. Vehicle caught on fire/exploded and melted to the ground. Dealership was aware of problem. *akbrakes have been squeaking when hot or cold. The front brake rotors and pads are glazed. There is a clunk noise heard in the front end when making a left or right turn. The noise was coming from a loose metal clip. The engine light stayed illuminated while in motion.

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While driving down the interstate at around 70 mph, the vehicle made a clunking noise and the engine stopped. This all happened within 30 seconds. I was able to coast over to the side of the road without incident. The problem was a seized engine and Ford is replacing with a new one.

After getting into vehicle the consumer heard a loud clanking sound, and then a part of engine fell out. Contacted dealer, and dealer noted that idle pully fell off.