Engine Rattling And Whining Sounds Problems of Ford Escape

My engine failed in 2019. Coolant entered cylinder no. 2 and was blown out the tailpipe. All coolant was lost. I could not drive the car afterwards without causing severe engine damage. Engine was replaced by Ford. I have since learned that hundreds, if not thousands, of Ford ecoboost engines, e. G. , 1. 6, 2. 0 and 2. 5l, have similarly failed. Ford has replaced many engines under warranty, but in many cases the vehicles were just out of warranty and owners had to pay $8,000 to $12,000 out of their own pockets to have engines replaced. These engines exhibit a design defect that allows coolant to enter the cylinders. Ford knows about this problem and should have issued a recall or extended the powertrain warranty. The sudden loss of all engine coolant can create a dangerous situation on the highway. There are many areas on today's highways where it is impossible to safely stop. In my own case, Ford replaced my engine under the powertrain warranty, but kept my vehicle an entire month while waiting on the new engine to arrive and for installation; Ford did not hook up my battery to a charger during this time and the battery ran down, limiting its remaining useful life. I had to complain to get a loaner vehicle while my vehicle was in the shop. Shortly after the new engine was installed, there was a terrible rattling noise under the hood that was due to a faulty transmission flywheel--possibly damaged during the engine reinstallation. These ecoboost engines are a disaster. My engine failed at 36,000 miles--many fail just out of warranty. But, since you never know where you might be when an ecoboost engine fails, it's also a safety problem.

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Transmission does not shift properly. Engine is making rattling noise when running.

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Engine light and service engine soon message appeared. Car stalling and won't accelerate. Took to victory Ford in kansas city after 5 hours they couldn't figure out what the problem was other than replacing the sensor. Hundred and $69 for the diagnosis. I was out of town so baby. Did it all the way back home had a local dealership put the sensor in. Another $74. . In the meantime engine code would sporadically disappear. And reappear period for no apparent reason. Had the local dealership check the code again keeps reading turbo problems. They're Ford machine was down so I took it to a dealership in the next town. Specific coding showed that is a wiring and splice problem. In the meantime I've almost been run over several times because the car won't accelerate when the code is thrown. If there's a problem with the wiring harness it should have been covered under a recall which I've been told it is not. And tomorrow dealership is replacing all of the splicing and wiring for another $450. I'm afraid that the problem may have caused other issues. But won't know until after the original problem is fixed. I feel like a couple of the wiring issues that have been recalled already should have included this. And forward should have to reimburse me for my cost since this is obviously a manufacture problem and not normal wear and tear when car is in motion there is a whirring sound I've been told is due to the electrical problem.

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Less than 9 months after purchase in 2008, the engine light of my 2006 Ford Escape XLT v6 went on. Multiple shops attempted to find the source of the problem but could not get the light off without wanting to do many step by step "could be this. . . " repairs. Computer code indicated the emissions control system was malfunctioning. Car remained with an expired inspection sticker for several months while differnet things were tried. Finally a shop found a corroded wire, and the light went out. Less then 7 months later the car battery light went on, and it stalled and died within minutes. It required 12 jumos to get it the approx. 8 miles home. The alternator and battery were then replaced. Less than 1 month later the exact same thing occured. A 2nd alternator and battery were put in. 2 months later the vehicle then suddenly began flashing the engine light pulling out from a stop sign. Instantly the car stopped accelerating and the front end began shaking, and making loud rattling noises, and fresh gas can be detected from the front end. It was found to have no oil, although there should have been plenty based on last oil change, and the oil light never came on. The engine now needs to be replaced. (mileage listed at failure is the engine event).

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