Clutch Problems of Nissan Altima

The contact owns a 2006 Nissan Altima. The contact stated that while driving approximately 45 mph, the clutch malfunctioned causing the driver to lose control and crash into a median guardrail. There were no injuries and a police report was filed. When depressing the clutch, the pedal would not release and would remain stuck. The vehicle was taken to the dealer who replaced the clutch, but the failure persisted. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The failure mileage was 52,000.

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2012 Nissan Altima. Consumer writes in regards to clutch failure the consumer stated the clutch went to the floor and there was a spongy feel. The dealer found white grease in the fluid. The clutch master cylinder and salve cylinder were replaced several times.

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The contact owns a 2008 Nissan Altima coupe. While the contact was driving various speeds the clutch pedal became stuck when it was engaged. The gear shift locked causing the vehicle to crash into the passenger side of another vehicle. The front seat passenger in the contacts vehicle sustained bruises to the ribs and a contusion. A police report was filed. The vehicle was towed to a collision center. The malfunction with the clutch occurred previously on eight separate occasions. The manufacturer was made aware of the problem. The approximate failure mileage was 32,000.

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Normal driving in air temperatures above 80 degrees. Failure in the clutch petal pressure- unable to disengage the clutch and shift gears. Had fluid flushed however this did not solve the issue and so the master and slave cylinder were replaced as recommended by manufacturer. One year later the issue returns, fluid was flushed and replaced with a high grade clutch fluid (dot 4) however still did not solve issue. Master and slave will be replaced again. This link below will show the number of people who have had problems with the clutch pressure. . Read more...

See all problems of the 2002 Nissan Altima 🔎.

Purchased a 2007 Nissan Altima 2. 5s. 1. First problem started when I heard a loud rattling noise when I start the car (this was 2 months after I bought the car). Increase rpm to 1. 5 rpm to get a louder, crisper noise. Took it to the dealer and was told that the heat shield was cracked and needed to be replaced. Took 2 weeks for the dealer to fix the problem. Noise went away. 2. Noise came back again 2 weeks later after it was fixed. Brought it to a different dealership to have it checked out to get different opinion. Finds out the heat shield was installed incorrectly. Resolved, and later told me that there was many complaints about this noise. 3. Had a 110lb passenger on the front passenger seat and the air bag off light turned on. Have yet to go to the dealer to see why this is happening. 4. After all this, I start the car on December 10th, 2008 and did not warm up car. When starting to accelerate car on street, clicking noises started to emerge. Was wondering if there was a problem with the clutch motor or the belt. Noise starts disappearing when the car is warmed up (after 8 minutes) decided to test it out by warming up the car first later in the day after it had cooled down, and then driving it, clicking sound emerged again. Bought it to the dealership, and told them to make sure to check noise when the car is cold (giver or take 3 hours), they did not listen and checked it when warm, when there is no clicking occurs. Deemed fine. 5. Brake squeals once in a while when used. Have yet to check this one out to the dealership. 6. On a morning of Jan. 2, 2008, I have started the car only to notice that the air mode has switched from defrost/foot air mode to foot mode. I thought the air control unit was supposed to memorize the last time I had the mode on but once every often, it switches back to the foot air mode plus turning on the a/c every time the car starts. Computer problem maybe? have yet to go to the dealership for this.

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Clutch pedal suddenly looses pressure while driving, causing an inability to shift gears. Thus rendering the car undrivable. After a period of time, clutch pedal regains pressure. This time period varies, and is not consistent. Dealer response has always been that they are unable to duplicate the problem. Many users on the internet forum 'altimas. Net' have experienced this same issue, and have had problems getting dealers and Nissan motor corp. To acknowledge and address the issue.

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Buy 2005 Nissan Altima ser 02/05, at 4,000 miles the clutch pedal begins to continuously fall to floor, requiring operator to lift with foot, take to dealership they are unable to duplicate, this goes on for months. Then driving home from work one morning it sticks to floor and does not recover. Limp to dealership. Dealer replaces clutch pedal and spring to correct, shortly after fails again, dealer replaces slave cylinder, fails again dealer replaces pressure plate and clutch throw out bearing, fails again, dealer replaces master cylinder for clutch, by this time car has 38,700 miles on it. Seems to work fine for about 12 months 20k and down shifting on and expressway exit ramp clutch pedal sticks to floor and clutch explodes. Currently waiting to see if Nissan is going to fix or I am going to have to pay. So far I have been lucky with the clutch failures and no one has been injured as a result.

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The clutch stays depressed to the floor and does not allow you to shift.

I recently had an incident where my clutch lost pressure while driving on I-95 and was unable to get the car into gear. This almost caused me to get rear ended going 80 mph. I complained to the dealer several times but each time they tell me they cannot duplicate the problem. The clutch loses pressure only after driving during hot extended periods. I am very concerned for my families safety in this vehicle and cannot get the dealer to correct the problem. I have also uncovered many other Altima users who are having the problem with their clutch that I am having on a Nissan Altima forum. Please help!!!!.

The clutch pedal on my 2002 Nissan Altima 3. 5se inexplicably and without warning, falls to the floor and becomes inoperable while driving. This happens intermittently, especially during 'stop-and-go' traffic. The pedal simply does not return to its normal position. It is impossible to replicate the symptoms for my mechanic, who gave the clutch a clean bill of health. Once it failed me at 60 mph!!.

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The contact owns a 2006 Nissan Altima. On one occasion, when the vehicle was placed in reverse, it rolled forward to the sidewalk. On two occasions, when the vehicle was placed in reverse, it rolled forward towards the sidewalk. The contact used both the foot brake and the emergency brake to finally stop the vehicle. The vehicle was never taken to the dealer. On twelve occasions, when the floor clutch was pressed, it became stuck. She had to manually work the clutch back to its normal position. On three occasions, when driving between 1-20 mph, the engine would shut off. On two occasions, while the vehicle was idling, the engine shut off. On four occasions, the vehicle restarted on its own. On one occasion, she had to call roadside assistance for a jump start. The vehicle sustained damage to the front bumper from rolling forward into the sidewalk. In January of 2008, the contact received a letter from Nissan concerning her vehicle not having abs; however, the information she received when the vehicle was purchased stated that it did have abs. The powertrain was unknown. The current mileage was 28,650 and failure mileage was 9,286.

: the contact stated there was a noise coming from the transmission whether the vehicle was being driven or idling. The dealership determined the clutch had burned, the fly wheel had heat damage and the pressure plate was warped. Those components were replaced, but this did not repair the problem.

Accelerating will occasionally result in clutch pedal going to the floor board. Extremely difficult to shift out of gear, unable to get the car into any gear. Sometimes able to resume normal clutch operation by pulling on pedal. Several complaints to dealerships in first year and a half after purchase. Clutch and master cylinder checked for leaks. Fluid replaced or topped off. Unable to duplicate symptoms at dealership. Problem remains.

Sudden failure of clutch to go back up to normal position (remained depressed and failed to shift to another gear) while driving Nissan Altima se-r at freeway less than 2 weeks after purchase. Unable to drive car safely, it forced me to stop on side of road. Drove it to the nearest Nissan dealer in santa monica, CA but cannot duplicate the problem. Reassured that it is okay and drove car back and forth to work until clutch got burnt and we were charged of approx $1500. 00 for the repair. We were back and forth to the Nissan dealer since then for creaky noises when stepping clutch and shifting, difficulty to shift especially in the first run in the morning, and clutch continued failure to return to normal position when depressed. Took the car to the dealers many times now for these problems more than normal maintenance for a car of less than 2 years. Please advise. Can't afford to drive an unsafe and unreliable car nowadays for considerable amount of money we paid. Nt.

Clutch was noisy. Clutch began slipping at 30k miles. Drove vehicle to the dealership. Paid over $700 for new clutch. Discovered there is a service bulletin on this vehicle for a replacement clutch with updated friction material. Was wrongfully advised by dealership that the clutch needed replacement due to poor driving habits.

Shifting from 5th gear to 4th gear and clutch pedal stay in the floor. Clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing and flywheel failed.

Clutch assembly mismatched. Took 3 weeks to get part, only 3,000 miles old. Still hard down shifting 5-4 & 2-1gears.

While traveling at 50 mph clutch became stuck to the floor. Driver was not able to put it in gear.

See all problems of the 2000 Nissan Altima 🔎.