BMW 325 owners have reported 12 problems related to alternator/generator/regulator (under the electrical system category). The most recently reported issues are listed below.
Oil filter housing gasket leaked on to alternator causing the alternator to over heat and melt internal components which causing lack of power and multiple false check engine codes to come on and smoke clouded my view while driving so very common problem is the heater core leaking too.
See
all problems of the 2006 BMW 325
🔎.
Both back windows on my 2003 BMW 325i will not go up. Garage says both regulators and actuators must be replaced. Researching the internet shows this to be a common failure on this model and it is considered a safety hazard.
See
all problems of the 2003 BMW 325
🔎.
My rear window and the rooftop dont work I can hear the motors but nothing happens a technician explain that the regulator and lines are broken its a common thing on my model he specified.
Electrical recall: on several occasions we have purchased, and fixed the BMW regulator on our 2006 BMW 325i . As of late the passenger window on the right side has become jammed and stuck and started rolling down on its own. In addition , the driver and passenger side view mirrors have also incurred the same issue. Along with the passenger door that will no longer open , without have to manually unlock, and lock once exiting the vehicle. I am afraid something else with the electrical system will occur. Safety is everything, especially with a second baby on the way. So here we have a window that is not rolling up at all. I'm unsure if I showed allow more work to be done , due to the fear of having the same issue occur repeatedly. Thanks in advance ! I look forward to a response .
I have replaced the clutch, transmission, fuel pump, spark plugs, battery, and alternator and my car still won't run. Its been parked for a year now with the exception of 15 days.
The vehicle won't start, and steering wheel is locked. The vehicle was parked in the garage, I was able to start the car initially, but 20 minutes later, the car would not start and the steering wheel locked. I tested the alternator and the battery, but still not able to start or turn the steering wheel. Upon researching the problem, it seems to be the an issue with the elv locking system.
I think I know why the car catches on fire since mine almost did and I troubleshot the problem. The alternator is not disconnected from the battery when the ignition key is turned off and the car is parked in the driveway. If the alternator ever overheats for any reason (such as the cooling vent comes loose), the pass transistor in the built in regulator of the alternator begins to short. Since it is never disconnected from the battery (even with the ignition key removed) the fist symptom appears to be a bad battery as the alternator kills the battery. Especially if you replace the battery with a new, fresh one and continue to drive the car the pass transistor continues to short more and more (it charges the battery more and more leading to overcharging and possible fire) and eventually shorts so bad that even when turned off it draws so much current from the battery that it starts to catch fire. If at this point you don't happen to be there to disconnect the battery it becomes a cascaded failure and will become an engine fire. I know because this is exactly what happened to me. I was lucky enough to catch it and figured it out by measuring the resistance of the alternator and was shocked at how low it was. I replaced the alternator and everything has been fine since. I still have the old alternator if anyone wants to examine it. In my opinion the alternator should never be left connected to the battery with the ignition key off. I just don't see any reason for it. Sincerely, kenneth a. Young.
See
all problems of the 2001 BMW 325
🔎.
Battery and alternator checked good with various service providers yet vehicle had a persistent battery drain witch would only appear after car was on the road and driving. After car stopped running due to low battery it then would not restart. No warning lights would come on until just a minute or two prior to engine quitting. Took vehicle to monrovia BMW in monrovia CA and was told that alternator was faulty. Installed new (not rebuilt) specified alternator and new battery and 5 months later same problem came back. Further own personal investigation found that BMW is aware of a faulty electrical system design flaw and I was never told about from BMW tech's at time of inspection as to the possibility of a system problem when the climate control "blower motor resistor" of "final stage unit" (fsu) and its internal resistor fails. This part has hundreds of write ups online from other owners and has gone back many years. When the part fails it leads to a whole variety of electrical problems with the affected vehicle. This could lead to a full engine shut down and lead to a crash. My vehicle has also been experiencing loss of engine coils and these are also part of the electrical system that could be being impacted by this fsu / resistor problem. Fire and or other electrical problems are also possible.
See
all problems of the 2002 BMW 325
🔎.
Rear right window came off the track and broke window regulator. Replaced window regulator. Technician remarked that both front windows are moving slowly so will need to be replaced soon also.
At around 20k miles, the smg (sequential manual gearbox w/ paddle shifters) on my '04 325ci began experiencing many of the same problems that I've read about regarding the automatic transmission. After a cold night, the smg would not shift into reverse or drive. It would keep "clunking" over and over, continually louder, until I shifted back into neutral. I had the car towed to BMW, where they had to replace the tranny. At 83k miles, I'm starting to notice some of the same problems again. Additionally, with both trannys, the car delays its acceleration for about a second or two when starting from a stop. This has always been a problem. On top of that, my alternator just went out after a cold night. In my opinion, BMW's (at least mine) do not like the cold!.
See
all problems of the 2004 BMW 325
🔎.
Battery was replaced a few weeks ago but it went dead again. Took that car back to the dealership. The dealership technician found an open circuit in alternator. Replaced alternator.
Four times since I buy a 2003 BMW 325i , I have to get the auto to guarantee service for replacement of the struct front bushing, now , after replace them at 32,000 miles about four month ago, my car at 37,000 miles request a new bushings. They said me that BMW was no longer replace them by guarantee because of the road conditions in puerto rico. When I buy the car I paid for a guarantee and I think that is impossible that a car like this , the ultimate drive machine require every four month to replace that parts. They should install a good reinforced genuine parts and not a remanufactured. I always try to avoid the holes, but I ask when it's raining it start a red light that indicated " please avoid this hole" . The dealer stated replaced lens and cover disc for both headlights, noises coming from both rear shock absorbers, replacing alternator drive belt tensioner, tensioner and pulleys, and removing and installing left or right rubber strip. Updated 10/24/07.
Problem Category | Number of Problems |
---|---|
Electrical System problems | |
Wiring problems | |
Alternator/generator/regulator problems | |
Instrument Panel problems | |
Battery problems | |
Ignition Coils Failure problems | |
Ignition problems | |
Car Will Not Start problems | |
Ignition Module problems | |
Software problems |