Alternator/generator/regulator Problems of Ford Mustang

On Saturday while cruising on the interstate at 60mph, my car suddenly engine braked and then shut off. I had to immediately move over to the emergency lane. The car never shut back on and neither were the windows able to be rolled up. I have dash cam footage to demonstrate the event, as well as me cruising 60mph in 6th gear leading up to the event. This is extremely unsafe and I have had numerous issues with this car since the week I bought it with 8 miles. I have tried to get Ford to buy it back several times but they refuse to. I have been unable to drive the car on the track as the car was intentionally built for due to these issues. I have had a new clutch, transmission, 5 alternators, a new ecu, 2 ac compressors, and brake services at the dealership. I have been unable to drive the car for a consistent 2-3 months without any issues. Now that the car has shut off on me in atlanta (where traffic is usually 90mph-ish), I'm extremely concerned that this car is going to put me in a seriously dangerous situation. If I was traveling northbound, this could have easily turned into a disastrous situation, causing a major backup in traffic or even getting hit by one of the vehicles.

See all problems of the 2017 Ford Mustang 🔎.

Air conditioner was blowing hot air while stationary . Service repair stated there was a leak in the evaporator coil and to repair it the cost is $1700. Because the coil is located behind the dash the whole dash has to be removed to get to the coil hence the costly repair due to where that evaporator coil is located. Service repairman at dealership originally said alternator was the problem and that it still needs to be replaced per dealership. The problem with the evaporator coil appears to be a common problem in Mustangs with as little as 2000 miles on them. I first noticed this problem almost a year ago when my car had about 37,000 miles on it. Did not have it repaired.

See all problems of the 2016 Ford Mustang 🔎.

After having my car for 5. 5 years, it started to shift gears on its own (it's an automatic) and brake/stall when I'm going low speeds. Especially when I'm at a stop light or stop sign, it will not allow me to accelerate (been stuck in middle of intersections about 5 times) even with my foot on the accelerator. The engine does not shut off. . . So I will turn my car off and back on to get going again. One time I was on the free way with a full tank of gas going 65 mph and my dash board went completely red and speedometer went to zero. . . The car did not stop until I manually turned if off on the side of the road. Also, it once did the opposite when I was trying to brake before a red light, the car jolted/accelerated forward while my foot was on the gas. I've replaced the air filters, battery, alternator, and engine's wire harness (all at separate times) and the issue remains.

See all problems of the 2013 Ford Mustang 🔎.

Ford Mustang batteries light is coming on replace with new and check alternator it good but batteries light still on. I did a search and found that this problem has been report numerous time with no help. Something is cause the battery to be drain on the 2006 Ford Mustang and it not the alternator. I just want to know why haven't a investergation has be done to look into this problem. We just brought this Mustang 11/13/2014 and we have this problem and found that a lot of other complaint about the same or similar issue. Please I beg someone to look into this before the worst happen and a life is lose because of a car die while bring drive bc of lost of power because of.

See all problems of the 2006 Ford Mustang 🔎.

My car battery is being drained and going dead, while car is completely off after sitting for more than 10 minutes. I have had the battery checked, alternator checked, and all fuses pulled and diagnosed to see if there was a shortage or bad fuses. All wires, connectors, and fuses were documented to be in good standing. The car had been driving perfectly and cranking with no problem, then this problem occurred out of the blue. The same day it went dead, that morning is when my car started up slightly different; but I did not pay it much attention, since it did crank. Later that day, I started my car and it slightly took a second longer to crank; which is when I then figured something was going wrong. I made it to my destination - where I was there for about a 1. 5 hours - got in the car to leave, and thats when I first experienced a completely dead battery. I then was able to get a jump, which started my car right back up; whereas, I then headed to autozone and good year tires to have my battery tested. Each place stated that my battery was 100% and charging perfectly. I then went to an auto electric shop after googling the problem, and seeing that many others have experienced the same problem with the same year and previous Mustang models. After 5 hours of diagnosing my car and seeking what the problem may be, I was informed by the car technician that the issue of the draining is being caused from the malfunctioning of the Smart junction box - located in the foot panel of the passenger side.

See all problems of the 2010 Ford Mustang 🔎.

While driving the car the car intermittently shuts off and there is total electrical failure. I have replaced the battery the alternator and many other parts including the on board computer in an attempt to fix it. I love my Mustang and want it to work it becomes difficult when it won't because of something that no one can figure out.

See all problems of the 2007 Ford Mustang 🔎.

I was driving my 2012 Ford Mustang v6 premium on the morning of 10\21\2013 when for the 4th time the advance traction control malfunctioned. When it malfunctioned the traction control light started to flash and I was unable to steer my car, blower on my air conditioner came on by its self full blast. While I was trying to get control of the vehicle a eighteen wheeler had to go off the interstate into the grass to keep from running my car over! this is not the first time this has happened it has been in the shop 3 other times starting at about 13000 miles. The problem is only getting worse!! I carried it to the shop when it first started having this problem they told me then that the control module was under national back order at it was going to be 6 to 8 weeks before they would have to part in for my car. The dealer was told by tech support to replace my 2012 part with a 2013 part??? they did that even though the part number was different. The next time I carried the car in the shop for the traction control they keep my car and did nothing. The third time I carried it to the shop for the same thing the tech connected to the car to the computer the alternator sent crazy waves to the electrical system and it messed up the battery they had to change the alternator and the battery. And even with everything they have done the car is still unsafe to drive and they tell me to take the car and when it happens again they will check it again. Now I am stuck with a car that is going to get someone hurt or worse someone killed!!! please help!!!.

See all problems of the 2012 Ford Mustang 🔎.

Water first noticed leaking inside the vehicle on 5/2013 and was -TSB performed on seals at cowel panel. Car leak was not fixed and started leaking again at same sight, this time with extensive mold spore damage which can be a significant health risk. This car has had multiple(at least 5 times)check engine light coming on,several times the car has just stalled while driving and so far 2 batteries and 2 alternators have been put in to this car and it makes you wonder if water has been leaking since purchase into the electrical system of this car. This has been a known problem at Ford since 2007 but a recall was never issued. I am not sure what it takes to issue a recall but I would hate it to be a respiratory illness or a crash that would bring it to this.

2006 Ford Mustang-car brought into dealership on 5/2013 with c/o water leaking on passenger floor board. This was supposedly fixed. Check car engine light was on for the fifth time and this time they replaced the alternator for the second time. Car now(2/14) would not start and the interior of the car is full of mold spores! I have read the forums on line and it is well documented that Ford has known about this leak since 2007 and never recalled this because it was not a "safety" issue however I think it is a huge safety issue when there is water leaking on the inside of the car, the windshield on the inside looks like it is raining and the car has had multiple electrical issues several of which the car has stopped working while driving on the interstate. Now on top of this we have a major health issue and the dealer does not want to take responsibility for this.

Issue 1 back when I had like 30k something brake cables freeze. Took it to Ford dealer and told them but they had to bill me $120 to check it out and another $500 but didn't solve the problem issue 2 found out about the flooding when the drain plug clogged up at passenger side issue 3 alternator went bad as well as the battery issue 4 vehicle started idle up and down issue 5 check engine came on and I got 5 check codes another issue was I was driving pulled up to a stop light starting to move again put it in 1st gear and the vehicle didn't take same time it took like 3-4 second before I moved out. I then smell something burning like brake pad shredding abs sensors idle speed and other electrical problem.

See all problems of the 2005 Ford Mustang 🔎.

As of today my 2006 Mustang has 58,953 miles on it and it is on it¿s third alternator. The first one failed at around the 56,000 mile mark and was replaced. My friend and I had traveled about 60 miles n from sacramento to an area between alta and dutch flats and I had turned off the ac and put the windows down. I heard a strange crackling sound and I pulled over about a half a mile afterwards and shut off the engine, we smelled something burning and lifted up the hood. And that was the end of the 2nd alternator it had lasted about 1600 miles. The sparks that were shooting out of the alternator looked like a 4th of July sparkler, and we¿re stranded in the middle of nowhere. And i¿m on the 3rd alternator with less than 59000 miles. Two months later maybe 600 more miles and water from the split in the wiper cowling runs into the car which went unnoticed for several days. I had standing water in the front passenger floor board and some in the rear as well. My repair estimate of almost $600. 00, plus a rental car and not including pulling the carpet and heating the floorboard as rust prevention. My feeling is it¿s not over yet as I have read a lot of the other complaints from people with the same issue. I have noticed the engine has started to crank like it might not start. Ford posts record profits all the while refusing to acknowledge the financial hardship to loyal consumers who just wanted to own their pretty Mustang, and paid well for it. We are real, we have lives that are affected by this in real and meaningful ways. . . . . . . Help us! listen to us, for every person that found their way to this web site and posted their complaint their are hundreds out there with the same problems who aren¿t even aware of this process. We haven¿t gone out and caused this damage to our cars, we are not at fault and we deserve remediation. Please help.

Speedometer gauge failure. The speedometer gave progressively more inconsistent readings until it finally settled below the 0 line and now does not move at all. The battery light also flickers randomly, although no problems were found with multiple batteries or the alternator. The light comes on even when battery testers are showing it having a correct charge. It appears to be a problem with the instrument panel.

Although car is 7 years old, mileage was only 18000+ when alternator needed replacing - $620. Out of warranty so no help from Ford or dealer. Other out-of-warranty issues include both interior door panels coming loose - upholstery shop had to glue them back on - $160. , and a canister vent valve had to be replaced - $310. Dealer also unable to cure boxcar-like ride.

My 2006 Mustang gt covertable is now on its second Ford battery under warranty for about 3 months now. 36k and while driving home last night the radio shut off and a "battery low" message displayed on the radio followed by all the yellow caution lights, abs/tractiion control off/check engine and am sure I detected a burning wire odor. Alternator at only 36k? the voltage meter was dead as well. I really enjoy the car and am surprised about this.

My speedometer started acting erratic. It does not work at all now. The needle is stuck past 120 miles. Now my oil, water & battery gauges do not work. Asked my Ford technician during my regular oil change and checkup about the problem and they stated that is was a sign my alternator was going out. I had my alternator changed, but it did not correct the problem and after that is when my other gauges quit working. Since this is a problem with almost every one made during that year, you would believe that Ford would not want to tarnish their name by not issuing a recall. I have always owned a Ford, but my family has recently changed to different makes and I will definitely consider changing after this. This is a safety issue because if your gauges are not working, you could stall in traffic by running out of gas, overheating, engine lock up, etc. I need my car so I can make a living for my family and I do love my car, but I am considering getting rid of it because I am afraid something will happen while I am in traffic. This does not need to wait until people start having accidents or dying. With the economy the way it is today, most people cannot afford to get their car repaired or change cars so they are left with no choice but to take chances. If it was your family in the car and something happened in traffic, would a recall come any faster? I have noticed recalls in the news happening faster when someone dies, but I wonder how many complaints were received before that happened? I suppose it would happen faster if the news were to pick up the story of how many problems existed and were left unnoticed. Thanks for looking into the problem, but please don't wait too long.

I was driving on the 407 travelling 110 km per hour. Windows, radio, fan, lights, emergency lights started to fail. The car was losing speed. It broke down on the highway and emergency lights nothing would work. I called 911 because I was scared of getting hit. Police came and my car was towed to the Ford dealership. They replaced the alternator and battery costing 566. 00. A month later the same thing happened. I find out that this is a common problem with Ford vehicles, a faulty firewall seal causing water damage to the Smart junction box. I found many Ford consumers online with the same problem. This is a danger to our highways. Ford is now telling me this will cost 3000. 00 to fix, not only is their manufacture's defect a danger, it is costing consumers thousands of dollars. They have lied to me saying it is caused by a crack in my window. They are trying to cover up a bad defect.

Vehicle was entering freeway when all dash lights stopped functioning and went black. Within several seconds the vehicle lost power and began spluttering. Vehicle pulled onto the side of the freeway and the engine cut out. Vehicle was unable to restart once engine died. Vehicle was taken to dealership where the alternator was found to be defective.

I have a 2000 Ford Mustang gt which caught on fire because of the alternator, Ford has have several suits filed against them for this reason. I called Ford locally and they only show a recall for the manifold which I have replaced previously. Before I replaced it Ford said there was no recall on the manifold, I am hearing the same story again as I did before and I know there is a problem with the alt.

See all problems of the 2000 Ford Mustang 🔎.

I have replaced 2 batteries on my 2005 Mustang. Dealer says there is always a small draw on battery even if nothing is plugged in. They have checked the alternator and it's ok. If I don't drive my car at least 2-3 times a week my battery always dies. The other day I shut my car off for about 20 minutes and it didn't want to start.

Nothing on the instrument cluster works properly. It started out with the gas gauge needle pointing at 6:00 then the speedometer started reading 110 mph when I was going 40 mph (by my gps) and now the tachometer reads 1500 rpm's to low. Now all 6 gauges have gone haywire! I now have no idea if the car is over heating or if the alternator isn't working or if the oil pump died. This is a big safety concern! with so many issues happening to so many people, I believe the manufacturer should step forward and fix this.

Alternator replaced 03/28/2007 gear shift replaced 04/29/2008 also replaced radio/cd player battery replaced 04/01/2009 a/c compressor 06/23/2010 alternator 04/08/2011 battery replaced 12/09/2011 check charging light still coming on.

Consumer stated the gauges on the instrument panel would unexpectedly fail during normal operation of vehicle, dealership examined vehicle, and replaced the alternator, which has failed to effectively remedy the problem, vehicle has been to mechanic on several occasions and still cannot fix the problem.

See all problems of the 1996 Ford Mustang 🔎.

Alternator failed at 50. 000 & fried the battery also cost 275. 00 with labor want reinbustment for the parts & labor this should of never happen at that mileage.

See all problems of the 1998 Ford Mustang 🔎.

This is wrong of Ford not to correct this problem. No safety defect mentioned in summary.

Alternatator melted battery wires, and vehicle caught on fire.

No summary listed for this vehicle.

See all problems of the 1997 Ford Mustang 🔎.

First the car had to be repainted. Then the alternator had to be replaced. Next the whole rearend had to be rebuilt because the pinion and pinion bearing went bad. This could have caused a major accident. The car vibrates excessively when you're on the expressway. It is hard to get into 5th gear. It has popped out of gear on several occassions while on the expressway at 70 miles per hour. The spark plug wires had to be replaced. Currently the car keeps stalling when pulling out or accelerating and the check engine light comes on. It has been in the shop 3 times so far for this latest problem. It is still not fixed, and I don't think they know what's wrong with it.