Owners/service Manual Problems of Honda CR-V - part 1

2011 Honda crv. The door lock actuator stopped working. I was not able to open the doors in manual with key or wirelessly ( remote). This is also a known problem with other crv model years and a legal case was won in favor of consumers of certain model years to have it repaired by Honda free of charge.

See all problems of the 2011 Honda CR-V 🔎.

Go to use key to manually unlock door. Key turns freely but doesn't do anything. From what I am reading this has been a recall for my year model crv.

See all problems of the 2012 Honda CR-V 🔎.

The car was parked in a parking lot. We had trouble locking the doors with the key fob remote. We manually locked the car doors. When we returned to the car we were unable to open any of the car doors or trunk using the key fob remote. We tried the physical key in the drivers door and that also did not open. A aaa locksmith was able to open the car door.

Driver side door won't unlock. First time I tried to unlock all doors wouldn't unlock and I was trapped inside my car. Not electrical as windows proceeded to roll down/up. Dealership wants to and I quote "break door to see what problem is". I think not. Key fob doesn't unlock any door but key fob will lock all doors. Have to manually unlock at driver side door and then go enter passenger side door to enter vehicle. Safety hazard for sure.

See all problems of the 2010 Honda CR-V 🔎.

1) pushed ignition button and put gearshift into r to back out of garage 2) gearshift nob spontaneously popped out onto mat 3) couldn't shift into p, only n 4) car on incline driveway into street that was busy with morning traffic 5) required to keep foot on brake while looking for nob 6) after several minutes, found nob and was able to put back into place and shift gear into d and drove back into garage and then put gear into p 7) extremely dangerous! nob could have been irretrievable with no way to keep car from sliding into traffic other than with foot on brake; no other way to keep car from moving; no manual braking method available 8) subsequently on internet search, this is known problem 9) was able to drive to dealer and have mechanism replaced in 1 day.

See all problems of the 2017 Honda CR-V 🔎.

While driving the vehicle, the "collision mitigation braking system" activated for no apparent reason. Honda owners manual states this has 3 stages of warnings. This particular incident was definitely a stage 3 warning. I was driving at approx. 40-45 mph on a straight stretch of road with the closets vehicle in front of me probably a 1/4 mile ahead. The car all of sudden braked very hard for no reason to the point it actually threw me forward in the seat, almost came to a complete stop, and had a car behind me been closer, they likely would have rear ended me. This is the second such incident I've had with the vehicle and feel it causes a very unsafe condition.

See all problems of the 2018 Honda CR-V 🔎.

The shifter button on the left that you have to press to change gears broke and popped out. Cannot engage the shifter to change from different gears unless you manually press the mechanism inside down. Huge problem. Happened when we came home and went to put the car in park. Button broke and popped out while still in drive.

Front passenger door door fails to unlock by the manual mechanism. Egress of vehicle is not possible.

See all problems of the 2007 Honda CR-V 🔎.

Had backup sensors installed by the dealership, jenkins &wynn; clarksville, TN. The back up sensor beep volume is so low that they are inaudible to myself. My wife can barely hear the beeps. The sensors cannot be heard at all if the vehicle audio is turned up at all. The backup sensors user's information manual does not provide any warning stating the beep volume is extremely low/inaudible to hearing impaired people. Also, the manual also does not state that when the backup sensors are activated, that the audio is neither muted or lowered so the driver can hear the beeps. Drivers may be accustomed to other vehicles back up sensors systems that lower radio volume and have beeps loud enough to be heard by all drivers, including hearing impaired. I believe that on top of the fact that Honda is deceiving customers who are expecting standard backup sensor activity; such as loud/audible beeps or the lowering of the vehicles audio volume when the sensors are activated; there are no warnings in the manual alerting drivers to these non-industry standards. I believe these failures to notify drivers/owners may cause to unsafe conditions during backing that can seriously injure or cause the death of someone during backing.

Parked car in parking lot and came back after a couple of hours and noticed all car doors were not unlocking either automatically or manually. After, couple of hours of continuously trying to get it unlocked I gave up and left my car in the parking lot and is still present there. I gave a call to Honda dealer and they refused to repair my vehicle without inspecting it. I bought the vehicle early December 2016 and was told I will be under warranty for 36 months or 100,000 miles in the amount $2500. After, arguing with the dealer they told me I am not covered and should contact 3rd part warranty company directly and told me it expired 11 month after date of purchase which was not stated to me when buying the vehicle. I feel this is a significant safety issue because god forbid if I was in a accident and this issue occurred who would help me get out or if I left my kids in the car.

Center console unit refuses to dim under any lighting conditions. Attempting to manually dim it results in momentary dimming and then return to full brightness. This makes it very difficult to see at night and requires that I shut off the center unit completely in order to drive safely. According to Honda this is a known software issue on the whole range of 5th gen crvs but they have not issued any fixes.

My rear door does not lock when I push the door lock from the interior, use the key from the exterior or the fob. My passenger side door won't unlock and now my driver's side door won't lock when I lock the doors or unlock when I unlock the doors. I have to manually pull up or push down on the lock lever. Passenger side door doesn't unlock 95% of the time. This is a safety issue. Other's have complained and have stated this is a recall. I do not see any recall notices for the lock actuator. The passenger side door has had issues for over 6 months.

See all problems of the 2006 Honda CR-V 🔎.

On December 12, 2017 at about 4:30 pm, the collision mitigation braking system failed and put my car into a panic stop when I was not about to have a collision with the car in front of me. I was driving east along a 4 lane undivided highway in the right lane (slow lane) at about 45 miles per hour approaching a traffic signal that was green. There was a car ahead of me in the slow lane at the signal, slowed down to make a right hand turn. I was 5 or 6 car lengths behind this car and in no danger of colliding with him. Without any warning, my car applied the brakes in a full panic stop. Fortunately there was no vehicle behind me. There was no collision with any other vehicles, but my right hip and lower right back were sore for several weeks. I reported the incident to my insurance company and to the dealer that sold me the car. On the dealer's suggestion, I set the forward collision warning distance to "short"; it had been set at "normal", the factory setting. Most days I manually turn the collision mitigation braking system off before I drive, but on the days I have forgotten, the problem has not re-occurred with the forward collision warning distance set to "short". I believe that if there was a vehicle behind me when the problem happened, he may have collided with the back of my car and caused me further injury. I thought for the safety of others, I should report this problem to you.

In December 2017 the power door lock actuators failed on the front passenger and tailgate, so the doors could not be opened, even manually. I had to crawl across the center console to exit the car. This could be very dangerous if it happened during an emergency situation. We were parked in a parking lot at the time. A recall had been ordered after a class action suit was filed in 2015, but only the driver's side door was included. That was replaced and the warranty was extended for the other doors for only 6 months from the date of the settlement. I was responsible for the cost of replacing two actuators that were obviously factory defects. Honda refuses to reimburse me or replace the actuators on the other two doors that will someday have the same problem. I was told by them that would only pay if ordered to do so by a court.

While I was driving a lighting on my dash broad came on and my car started to make drive funny. I had pulled over and looked in the manual to see what the symbol stands for. It stated, something is wrong with the electrical system and advise me to turn my SUV off and wait. I waited for ten minutes, when I turn on the car all the lights where flashing on the dash broad, the radio had came on but the windows won't roll down. I waited for 15 minutes the car won't start and all the lights started flashing on the dash broad. I received a jump but my car was still doing the same thing. I had to buy a new car battery but that one in and once I started the car all the lights on the dash broad came on again and turned off once I started to drive my car. Occasionally, it happens every once in awhile. Tonight after work I put my car in drive the damn button on the handle came off!!!!.

Car parked at store. Placed 6 yr old child into car to unload cart without fear of parking lot drivers. Trunk open at that point. Child asked for a/c (94f outside - hotter in car). With the remote, I performed "remote start" sequence. This did not work with trunk open. I closed trunk, performed start sequence, re-opened trunk to load groceries. After done, I closed trunk, moved cart to front of car. Meanwhile, inside car, my child hit the start button. This placed the vehicle into auxiliary power mode (think radio on without engine running). Hazard to life: once car is in auxiliary mode, if the doors are locked, the car cannot be opened in any way from the outside. The key remote will not work open car (car will beep only once each time). Touching handle to unlock does not work (again one beep). The trunk cannot be opened with remote, with the hands-free feature, or with the normal "open buttons" on trunk. Child was locked in a hot car with no way to get to her!! child could not open windows by herself (don't know if it wouldn't work due to auxiliary mode or if she didn't know how). Ultimately I was able to talk her through manually unlocking door, but if she was experiencing a medical emergency or did not have the intellect, this could have had a very bad ending. I have the top of the line model, with all the optional safety features (mirrors, sensors, everything), yet something like this still happened. There needs to be a fail safe! how many children could climb into the car and inadvertently lock the doors while "play driving" by hitting the start button, placing car into auxiliary and parents cannot get in to them! omg Honda - please fix this ASAP before someone dies.

Collision mitigation system is malfunctioning when driving over metal plates: during construction, metal plates were put on the road where I work. They do not stick out, area flush with the street, and are about 4 feet wide. Every time I get close to drive straight over them (at probably 20-25 mph), my car slams onto the brakes and comes to a complete stop. If anybody were behind me, they would rear-end me. A colleague of mine bought the same car and has exactly the same problem. I had my car checked out at a Honda dealer and they told me everything is working properly. The system cannot be turned off permanently, so I have to turn it off manually every time I start the car. This is very dangerous, as somebody will get hurt soon if somebody is behind me and there is no reason I would come to such an abrupt stop.

Driver's door lock makes a loud rattle upon locking, sounds like a machine gun. Rear left door can only be manually locked or unlocked, does not work with the remote or will not lock or unlock automatically.

See all problems of the 2013 Honda CR-V 🔎.

My rear passenger lock was making a strange sound at times, similar to the sound of the recalled door locks to the front door locks. Arriving to my parked car, the unlock failed with the keyless entry to my back passenger door (the other passenger doors unlocked). I tried to use the button inside the front door to unlock it, no luck. Then I tried to manually unlock and it was stuck in lock position. This was the scariest as I have children and in case of an accident I am afraid we will be trapped inside car. Later I discovered the trunk was not opening either. The three other doors/locks were still functional. It began working again a couple days later, but sounds off and my call to Honda service center has not been returned. I feel this should be a safety recall as they already recalled the front locks for the same issue and it is a safety concern.

See all problems of the 2008 Honda CR-V 🔎.

For a couple years, my back passenger side door has had a lock issue. In order to open the door, I must hit the "unlock" button at the exact moment someone goes to open the door - otherwise the lock slides back to locked position within seconds. Yesterday, my back driver side door locked itself, and I am unable to unlock it in any way, including manually. The lock is jammed and the door will not open. About an hour after noticing this issue, I tried to open my back hatch, and it too is permanently locked shut. I did some research and found that there was a 2014 class action lawsuit about these issues, which I was not informed of. I received no notification in the mail about this. The claim period has since ended, despite this being an ongoing and widespread defect, and Honda refuses to cover the costs to fix this issue. Furthermore, this presents a safety issue, as a passenger could be locked in the car at any time - including an emergency situation in which the car may be on fire. I have even found on a forum a story of a woman whose entire car permanently locked itself with a child inside.

Back in October 2015, my husband was driving me to the airport at 5 am. As we approached to turn onto the highway, the power steering died and the electrical system turned off. We were stuck in the middle of a dangerous intersection with no way to fix the car. We could not shift the car into neutral to push it off the road. The police came and some good samaritans. Someone found a way to manually pop something off to force the car to shift and that's how we got the vehicle off the road. I had my 3 year old son with me at the time too. It was an incredibly dangerous situation. While I was away, the mechanic shop looked at my car and said it was the computer. They said it was like a 2k fix. We had it towed to the millenium Honda because that's the dealership of purchase. Millenium Honda fixed it and said it was the ignition fuse. Now it's April and out of normal use (my car is 2011 and only 54k mile), the car won't start. It was fully functioning the night before and nothing was left on. Stationary in the driveway, it would not start. It's not the battery because that was changed in March. No sound when you turn the key. Nothing was left on. Today, waiting for dealership to come to a conclusive resolution to the situation. This has shaken my belief in the reliability of my car. Whether it's a computer problem or whatever, it is putting my family and I in danger if it does not function properly. Power steering or electrical failure is not ok. It could have happened on the road. What then? first incident 10/31/15 and now this one 4/17/16.

After parking my car, while unlocking the doors, the rear driver side door was not getting unlocked. So I manually unlocked the door from inside and after that the rear driver side door is never getting locked again. This is a very difficult situation as already the front passenger door actuator is broken and now the rear driver side door is not getting locked at all. Now I am feeling very insecure by using this vehicle. I would like Honda to fix both these problems at no cost to me.

Tire pressure indicator light : the tire indicator light remains on weather the vehicle is stopped or moving. This has been reset using the manual, by a tire center and also by a Honda dealer. After the Honda service the light remained off for I day. This seems to be a common issue with the vehicle but I was not notified and there is not a recall. I have been told to ignore it . . . Really that is the answer!.

See all problems of the 2014 Honda CR-V 🔎.

The back hatch door does not open even if the open button on the keychain remote is pressed the required number of times. Even the button on the inside of the driver's side will not open the hatch door. The only way to manually open the door is to pry off a small panel on the inside of the hatch door and press a lever. There is no external way of opening the back hatch door. This could be a major hazard especially in an accident in which the hatch door is the only way out. It is unlikely that anyone inside the vehicle will have a tool or maybe time to pry off the inside panel to access the lever to open the hatch door in an emergency/accident. Anyone outside the vehicle would not be able to open the hatch door manually. Of course, no attempt was made to see if the hatch door would open while the vehicle was in motion.

See all problems of the 2009 Honda CR-V 🔎.

Driver side door actuator is malfunctioning. Unable to lock door with key fob, have to manually lock it. Class action lawsuit was for the 2007 and 2008 model, however the company is still using the defect part in newer models. Waiting for the other door to malfunction and if it persist it might cause a fire in the door. Big safety concern, guess the government will wait until someone dies before recalling this problem. This is a known problems for the crvs, look at the class action lawsuit.

Driver side door will not unlock with power button or manually with a key. Called Honda customer service and they will not cover the expenses to fix, eventhough they've had a recall on the same issue. Unfortunately, my VIN number apparently has no complaints. Dont know what to do!?.

Door lock actuator failed: key fob would only lock/unlock drivers door. Manual key lock/unlock on outside drivers door would only lock/unlock drivers door. Attempted to lock/unlock all doors using button on inside drivers door: could only lock/unlock drivers door--no affect on other doors. Today, Honda dealer tested and then replaced door lock actuator: problem persisted unaltered. Then more diagnostics showed: "diagnosed to find the unlock relay inside the micu is not providing power to unlock the remaining doors. The noisy driver front actuator, or any of the other 3 may have caused the issue in the relay. Orderd the under hood fuse relay box and customer will return. ".

Doors keep trying to lock every time car reaches 8mph or whatever the standard is. The doors remained lock but they keep trying to lock again. Reset to lock when car goes out of park. Now one door unlocks itself. I lock all doors and then check the rear left door and it is unlocked. I then have to manual lock it. I've already replaced the actuator on the driver side front door twice.

The door lock on my 2009 crv does not work, neither manually nor with the electronic "fob". I cannot get into the car. I went online on edmunds car forum and noted that this appears to be a widespread problem with Honda crv. Perhaps Honda should be made to fix this problem at their own expense. This problem could potentially leave the car owner locked outside his/her car in the freezing cold with no access to a phone to call for help. Please look into this matter.

When parking brake was not released, there was no brake light and no beeper sounds (according to the manual, I checked later).

Purchased new 2014 Honda Cr-v on 12/19/14. During the purchase the sales person was specifically asked about the tire pressure monitoring system (tpms) problem, which per the NHTSA complaint process has existed in the Honda 2014 Cr-v models since September 2013. The sales person was not aware of any problems. Asked the sales person to verify the manufacture date of the vehicle to be purchased and was told it was September 2014. The next day (12/20/14) while driving the vehicle the tpms light came on. The vehicle had been driven some 25 miles (the odometer read 115 miles when purchased). Tire pressure was checked and found to be 30 psi per specifications. Reset the tmps following owner manual instructions. Called the dealership and scheduled an appointment for 12/22/14. A software patch (version oha240 December 2014) was installed. Honda continues to manufacture and sell a vehicle with a known potential safety defect. Past "fixes" do not seem address the problem. When will someone address this issue and solve it?.

I have a 2008 Honda Cr-v and my rear door unlocks itself automatically. For a while I was able to get it to lock manually, by lock door button, but no longer. Now every time I start to proceed on green light/signal, my car thinks the doors are not locked, and automatically re-locks the 3 working doors, as well. My car is now out of warranty and I saw over the internet that so many customers is having this problem in their Cr-v.

The locking system stopped working. When I start the car and engage the gears the car doors are supposed to lock by itself but they do not lock as a result if I do not lock them manually all the four doors remains unlocked. My remote also is unable to lock it opens the door but does not lock and hence I have to do it manually.

The car vibrates heavily at idle. This vibration far exceeds any vibration I have experienced in any other vehicle and is not acceptable for a new vehicle. All passengers can feel the vibration, but it is most pronounced in the front passenger seat - when empty it shakes violently. The vibration is so pronounced that I have a hard time focusing my eyes resulting in eye-strain. The conditions under which the vibration (described below) occurs will not be experienced by most test-drivers and so Honda is deceiving the public by selling this car. They are aware of the issue and are doing nothing to solve it and they continue to sell the Cr-v. This is shameful. My findings: 1. The strong vibration / shaking happens continuously when: a. Engine is warm 5-15 minutes b. At a complete stop in drive c. There is no additional load on the engine (all additional components are off - lights, ac , radio etc) d. Rpms drop to just above the 500 line 2. The strong vibration / shaking comes and goes cyclically when: a. Engine is warm 5-15 minutes b. At a complete stop in drive c. There is some additional load on the engine. Such ac or manually turned on running lights - how long it takes to cycle varies, but it will do so eventually. The rpms cycle between the 550-600 (hard vibration / shaking) and 750-800?? (again not sure of the exact reading) which produces a much more tolerable (although still very annoying) vibration 3. The strong vibration shaking does not happen when there is enough of a load on the engine to hold the rpms steady at the higher idle rpm mark of approximately 750-800. Although, the less pronounced (although still very annoying) vibration remains. A. Most consistent things to do this: auto-light function when engaged with lights on & manually turning on fill nighttime lights .

See all problems of the 2015 Honda CR-V 🔎.

Have to manually lock and unlock the driver's side door. Also key will not go into the lock. Have to unlock the passenger side and manually unlock the driver's side door.

See all problems of the 2002 Honda CR-V 🔎.