Gas Recirculation Valve (egr Valve) Problems of Hyundai Sonata

2021 Hyundai Sonata 59,850 miles rpm jumps to around 1,300 at zero miles on occasion. If I am stopped, at a red light or behind other stopped autos, the vehicle jumps forward when I take my foot off the brake. Because this happens quite often, I am aware of this and keep my foot on the brake until other vehicles are out of the way to avoid bumping into them. When this happens, I can cruise at 30 miles per hour without having my foot on the accelerator, I can slow down or stop by applying the brakes but the engine rpm stays at 1,300. If I stop and shut off the vehicle and restart, the operation goes back to normal but occurs again later. The Hyundai dealer has had the vehicle back 9 times but the issue continues. The first few times, they could not find an issue, I returned to the shop when this was happening and the service manager and a technician observed this condition, the egr valve was replaced. Was ok for a bit but condition returned, the computer was then replaced. Condition continued. Brought the vehicle back and a scan was done and system “re-learned. After a short time the condition returned. Went back to the service center and they did another scan and another re-learn. Condition returned 4-5 days later. Problem still not resolved. Have 59,850 miles on the vehicle, warranty expires at 60,00 miles. This started around July 1, now October 5. Waiting for a loaner so the service center can drive it around until the situation occurs and they can bring it in immediately for diagnosis. This is the same issue as reported for the same year vehicle in July 2022.

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This is the seventh occurrence of complete loss of power while driving on the interstate. The hybrid system warning activated, followed by the engine shutting down, and all dashboard lights illuminated with alerts indicating "shut off engine/hev. " an 18 wheeler was pulling out from the shoulder as I was losing power and barely missed getting crushed. The former problems have all been at interstate speeds with similar accident avoided. The service history clearly demonstrates that Hyundai has repeatedly attempted to address this issue by replacing numerous critical components, including the engine, transmission, knock sensor, battery (three times), integrated brake actuation system, and Smart cruise control, among others. Despite these extensive repairs, the problem persists. On this latest occasion, less than 4,000 miles and four months since the last major incident, the dealership has proposed replacing the intake manifold, egr valve, hsg belt, and spark plugs. The belt was changed less than 20k miles ago. And I believe the spark plugs were as well. Each time my vehicle experiences this issue, it is out of commission for weeks or even months at a time, causing significant inconvenience and raising serious safety concerns. I no longer trust this vehicle and I don't believe the many recalls have successfully addressed the root cause of issues with the 2017 hybrids.

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Egr cooler leaks and slowly burns off engine coolant resulting in the car overheating while driving, forcing a quick exit from the road, or stopping in traffic not to damage the engine. Google search shows this is a very common issue with these hybrids.

While driving on a highway at ~60 mph, the check engine light came on (plus other indicator lights) and the car immediately dropped to ~45 mph. ~20 seconds later, while trying to pull into a school parking lot, the hybrid system fault warning came on and the car dropped to ~5-10 mph and then became extremely difficult to control. The car was towed ~80 miles to my home dealership and it was diagnosed as a partially blocked egr tube. ~1 month later, on the next longer drive I had to make (all other drives were short distances), ~70 miles into the drive, the car started making a knocking sound and then suffered the same failure under the same kind of conditions. This was diagnosed as a failed knock sensor. One week later I tried to drive it a long distance to see if the problem would happen again (but closer to home) and while traveling on an interstate highway the same issue occurred. This time it was diagnosed as oil in the wiring assembly for the just replaced knock sensor. The dealership tried to give me the car back but I demanded that they do a long test drive. It took 4 days to get them to do what I asked and then they had it break down on them in the same way. I'm not 3+ weeks after that and still don't have the car back (now they're planning to replace the egr assembly and intake manifold). Each breakdown has thrown the p1326 trouble code but Hyundai refuses to admit that the issue may be the engine itself (related to the recall). It took until the 3rd breakdown and a lot of demands to get a loaner vehicle. I don't know if this is the known engine issue, something else or new but don't feel that Hyundai is taking it seriously. If nothing else, the programming that was added to put the car in safe mode and prevent fires is too aggressive and in each case has made the car undrivable in less than 1 mile. I have gotten lucky in all cases that a safe place to stop was nearby but it is not safe to drive in many areas due to lack of safe pull off location.

Initially had loss of cabin heat. Later, vehicle randomly overheated. Repair shop replaced egr due to finding confidant buildup of water/coolant mix. Within one week, problem returned. Dealer notified me that while replacing another part they found a TSB for coolant leakage into exhaust that was consistent with my issue. After research, it is clear that this is a widespread failure and should be a recall.

The contact owns a 2021 Hyundai Sonata. The contact stated that while driving at an undisclosed speed, he received an alert indicating that the engine was overheating and to pull over. No warning lights were illuminated. The contact then veered to the side of the road and waited approximately 15 minutes before restarting the vehicle. The vehicle was then taken to the dealer where the vehicle remained. The vehicle was diagnosed, and it was determined that the engine coolant bypass valve needed to be replaced. The vehicle had not yet been repaired. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 32,547.

I noticed a strange smell almost like burning maple syrup in the garage for months. I thought it was just a different smell from hybrid cars as I didn't have this used car very long. While driving at times the acceleration would stutter, again I thought this was just expected having never driven a hybrid car. Then on a trip a couple hours out of town someone stopped me on the road to tell me I was burning antifreeze and he could see white smoke coming from the car. I pulled over and didn't notice anything and continued driving but the heater wasn't working, it was blowing cool air despite the heat being on. I pulled into an auto parts store and got antifreeze in case. And then the overheating alert came on. I waited and filled it up and made an appointment at the dealer. They diagnosed it as a a blown gasket and a bad catalytic convertor and replaced all of that. After bringing it home I continued to lose coolant even with a two mile ride, I went from max fill to half way between max and min. Clearly the problem wasn't the gasket or the catalytic convertor. Others have shared similar experiences online and had to have many parts replaced. The coolant tank, the egr cooler (?), etc. I don't know what the problem is but something is wrong with these cars.

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The contact owns a 2016 Hyundai Sonata. The contact stated that while operating the vehicle the dashboard warning lights had suddenly activated and the vehicle went go into "limp" mode causing the vehicle's' speed to reduce. The vehicle was taken to the local dealer on several occasions and the nox sensor, intake manifold and egr were replaced but the failures continued to occur. The manufacturer was notified of the failures but no assistance was offered. The failure mileage was 104,000.

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I have had the same issue 3 separate times related to the coolant system. The first time happened January 2021. I was driving on the highway and I noticed that when the car switched from electric to fuel a large plume of white smoke came out of the exhaust and then the engine overheating message started. I checked the coolant tank and it was completely empty. I managed to get some coolant in the car and get to my destination. I checked the coolant tank again and all the coolant that had been put in was gone. I immediately had the car towed to the dealer. They found the issue was a leak near the muffler and eventually replaced that and other gaskets. In may 2022, I noticed again that when I switched from battery to fuel on acceleration that there was a plume of smoke coming out of the exhaust and my coolant was very low. Brought to the dealer and they confirmed again there was a leak but this time with the egr cooler and associated parts. In December 2022, I had just gotten an oil change from the dealer and they gave me a clean check up. The next evening I was on the highway again and I received the engine overheating message. I was able to get to the dealer the next morning after refilling the coolant twice. I provided them with the previous paperwork from the other two fixes. They confirmed again that the leak was happening with the muffler so they replaced more parts. In all I have for over 3 months fixing the same issue. . Read more...

I had a very scary incident Friday night, 12/18/20 about 8:30pm. I was about to merge onto the 5 fwy north to go home, and as I am coming out of the turn, and accelerating to anticipate the flow of traffic, I see a big rig in my rear view mirror in the distance. Naturally, I step on the gas to punch it, to give myself and the rig plenty of distance as to not collide. My car revved up and decelerates to about 2mph . I panicked and managed to coast the car to the shoulder as far right as I could and the rig barrels down past me. I was afraid to completely stop on the shoulder of the fwy, and the car lasted long enough to coast to the next exit. I am able to continue steering my car close to the shoulder at a crawling pace, and turned on my hazard lights. I had people mad behind me, but I could not speed up. I managed to coast to the nearest exit, come down the ramp, and stop briefly with just enough momentum to steer left onto telegraph in commerce, and my car completely dies in the first lane. This is the second time my car just dies on me while I am driving! first time was three years ago in December 2017 . The car had initially died while making a left turn. However, after turning the car off and waiting a few minutes, I was able to turn the car on and drive no more than 30 mph to the same downey Hyundai. The issue was under full warranty and repaired, but now a second time? worse yet, this happened while excelerating onto the freeway. I don't want to drive around in a car that has repeated recalls for various issues. I also don't want to worry of my car dying on me a third time. My Sonata is currently at downey Hyundai and they have started diagnostics and will have a better reading as to what happened. I have lost all confidence in this vehicle and worried for my safety and that of any passengers I may have with me.

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Bought this car from a private seller. 2 days later driving 80mph on a 4 lane freeway the car loses all power and stops. I limp car off busy freeway (mind you with an arizona hwy patrol officer in the median didn't ask me if I needed help). Found out that my engine block had metal in that was left in it when the engines were made in alabama. Hyundai knew about this issue and told the NHTSA that they didn't feel it was a safety issue? not a safety issue to lose power at 80mph??? wtf? take it to the dealership jim click Mazda/Hyundai tucson az and they have it back to me in 2 days? a new engine block with all the old parts put on it? wtf??? car is making a noise when I pick it up that it wasn't making before the engine went out. I call the dealership say hey car's making a funny noise when I accelerate kinda like it was before the motor went out. Which by the way was under safety recall. So today I am diving and lose all my ac no ac it's 110 degrees outside I call a friend to look at it he pops the hood and right away notices 2 bolts/brackets that hold the ac high pressure line to the car missing! wait bolts are missing??? yes when the dealership put the car back together they forgot to bolt the thing down?? I tell my service advisor at Hyundai about it and show him when I get the car there. Like ummm hello???? where are these bolts. He downplays it and acts like I am stupid. It's their fault. So then he calls me to tell me the issue is the cooloing fan and resisitor for the engine. The wires are melted!!! wtf again?? like are u serious? I feel like they did a shitty job to begin with putting the new engine block in and probably the same guy who didn't put the bolts in is most likely responsible for the issue with the cooling fan!!!!.

My 2018 Sonata will not start when temp drops below 20 deg f. It has happened 3 times this winter and when it warms back up to 40 to 50 degree it will start. When I turn the key on all the lights on the dash light up like normal. I can move hear selector and turn wheel. But the starter will not engage nothing is heard not a click or a shirt. Is this common problem?.

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I was driving to work Friday 12-6 at approx. 7:24am and the check engine light comes on and flashing. I then pulled over to see what was wrong and I turned the car off and back on the car will then only accelerate to 10 mph then slowly accelerate but will not go past 63. I was able to drive it back to a mechanic who then diagnosed it and stated it was a p3126 obd-ii diagnostic powertrain (p) trouble code description p3126 engine trouble code is about exhaust gas recirculation sensor b circuit high. Reason for p3126 code the reason of p3126 obd-ii engine trouble code is engine oil temperature sensor malfunction. P3126 code on vehicles with electronically controlled automatic transmissions, the 3-4 shift solenoid is responsible for actuating the hydraulic circuits to activate clutches or bands that change gears inside the automatic transmission. Contacted Hyundai and justin asked me was the check engine flashing I advised him yes. He said it was more than likely a recall. He made me an appt for Tuesday 12-10 @ 7:15am. I proceeded to drive my vehicle to Hyundai and I was told it's not a recall and they are going to charge me $175 just to diagnose the problem. I drove it back to my job in flowery branch GA and contacted geico to tow it back to my house.

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I purchased a 2019 Sonata demo vehicle with 5,020 miles in June 2019. I removed the temporary tag and replaced with permanent tag on July 16. On July 20, while driving on the expressway at approximately 65mph, the engine overheating alert came on and the temperature gauge was on hot. I pulled over on the side of the expressway and waited for hours (in nearly 100 degree summer heat) to have a new vehicle towed to the dealership. The service department advised me that the water pump malfunctioned and caused the belt to tear. The service department could not provide a reason for why the water pump/belt malfunctioned on a new vehicle. The water pump and the belt were replaced after the service department had my vehicle for a about a week. The service department advised me that I should not have any further issues with the vehicle. The repairs were completed on 7/29/19. On August 16, I took my vehicle back to the dealership because it appears that the replaced/new belt is splitting/tearing. The service department advised me that there is nothing wrong with the belt, however, there is clearly visible evidence that the new belt is splitting also. I have attached a photo of the vehicle prior to the repairs; a photo of the new belt that is currently splitting; the original service repair document and the document of the service department advising me that nothing is wrong with the new belt. From the photo, you can clearly see that the new/replaced belt is splitting also and it is just a matter of time before the engine will overheat again and I will be on the side of the road waiting for a tow. Again, the service department did not have an explanation as to what caused the water pump/belt to malfunction and now they are denying that there is an issue with the replaced belt.

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Tl - the contact owns a 2011 Hyundai Sonata. The contact stated that while at a parking lot, the vehicle did not start. A humming noise was heard from the engine. The vehicle was towed to the contact 's residence. The contact called the lafontaine Hyundai dealer (866-568-6530, located at 1847 s telegraph rd, dearborn, mi 48124) where a diagnostic test was recommended but was not performed. The manufacturer was not madeaware of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 11,000. Fe.

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2012 2. 0t limited with 95k. 12-18-18, while driving from austin to houston TX vehicle loses acceleration on the highway. Check engine light comes on, along with the emergency parking brake light (which comes on intermittently and dealership yet to define problem), and abruptly goes from 75 to 0 mph. Vehicle will not respond to any acceleration and I have to find a way from the freeway to feeder without power. Inoperable. Limped three miles with police escort. Car towed. Dealership cannot duplicate issue. I make them keep vehicle to investigate. They get a code error and change out the ecm for a mere $1400. Meanwhile, I must find transportation in a city I do not live and rent a car for a week. Retrieved vehicle. 2 weeks later, traveling to houston on 12-26, check engine light comes on, car will not accelerate; spitting, feels like no gas getting to engine, heavy smoke from tailpipe. Christmas eve, no place to stop. Barely make it to houston. Inoperable. Car goes to another dealership in houston. Again, without transportation in a city I do not live in. Faulty high pressure fuel pump. Carbon buildup. Another $1100. Prior to that, March 2017, engine failure travelling to houston. Knocking noise. Wont go. Inoperable (luckily, this one I made it to a full stop). Car towed. Waited three months for a new engine (not in my hometown). Had to travel to pick up vehicle. (car had been inspected by hometown dealership specifically for metal debris and it did not get flagged for replacement). Directly after that, while driving in austin. Vehicle stops in major intersection. Inoperable. Towed. Degraded battery cable because the vehicle sat for three months while waiting for an engine. The only warranty was the engine. Can you say lemon? the only saving grace is that myself and my family were not seriously injured when our vehicle became inoperable while driving on a highway.

Nhtsa in December 2015 the engine on our 2011 Hyundai Sonata failed while accelerating to merge into traffic on a very busy hwy 101 in the san francisco bay area. We brought our vehicle to the dealership where we had purchased it in may 2011. The following morning we were told by the dealership's service department that the engine had failed and that Hyundai north american has authorized them to replace the engine at no cost to us. Afterwards, we brought the vehicle back complaining of 1. A noise coming from the engine compartment, and 2. A toxic smell invading the passenger cabin seemingly coming from the engine compartment. We were told that they were unable to replicate either of these conditions while the vehicle was with them. After several return visits we were told that the sound and smell were due to a failed �motor assembly� needing to be replaced. We were charged approximately $575 despite our objectives asserting that the failed motor assembly was the result of faulty work when the engine was replaced lest the other 3 motor assemblies would also need to be replaced. We were eventually reimbursed but not my the dealership but rather by Hyundai n. A. . We again mentioned our complaint about the frequent toxic smell to Hyundai n. A. Requesting that they buy the vehicle back from us based on the aforementioned conditions. We were advised that our vehicle was not eligible for buy back, rather Hyundai n. A. Offered a settlement agreement for $2,000. We reluctantly accepted the settlement agreement and signed the release believing that there was no other forum for us to seek remedies except through the costly court system. We regret having accepted the settlement agreement each time the toxic smell invades the passenger cabin. After the recent news reports we are now fearful that our 2011 Sonata will burst into flames.

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1/2 mile after starting my vehicle and driving approx 30 mph, my car shuttered and shook. Pulled over and it seemed to fix itself so I continued 23 miles to work. Was approx 39 degrees according to car dashboard. Leaving work 9 hours later, I drove approx 1. 5 miles in stop and go traffic, speed no higher than 25-30 mph, crossed over rr tracks and the car shuttered and then shut off completely rolling to a stop. Threw on my hazards and the screen indicated I should put it in park and restart. The battery light and master indicator light came on. Car restarted and the lights disappeared. Went straight to Hyundai dealer. They attempted a 17 mile road test the next day after the car sat overnight and it did not repeat the issue. Nothing was stored in the computer system from when the lights came on. They have no explanation. Oil was changed and took car back at 5pm the day after the issue took place. Drove 24 miles to work today and it did not repeat yet.

I was driving my car about 45 miles per hour. All of a sudden my engine just cut out. I began to pump the gas and there was no acceleration and no sound from the engine. It was completely dead. The lights were on and all other functions were working properly. The yellow engine light came on. I had to pull over and was hoping and praying that my brakes were still working. They did. There was no warming . No oil lights or coolant lights came on . It was about 75 degrees and a clear night with no rain. I have taken my engine in 2 other times due to weird sounds and odd issues for the recall. All time it has passed the "pressure test" . My car was towed into the dealer. They are admitting there is definite noise in the engine, but it is still passing this random test. I have had all my oil changes and am at the dealer enough that they know who I am. This could have killed me if I was on the freeway here in southern California. My dealer has been amazing. The corporation is giving me the run around. (please let me know if you need my dealer print out to show that it is in for service).

My steering wheel has become increasingly loose and shaky over the past months when driving or stationary. There is a very distinct (and getting worse over time) "clicking" or "knocking" sound when I back up and turn my wheel either way. I was told by my mechanic that something is wrong with my steering gear box/shaft sector and possibly some of my axles. He told me this was dangerous, and that the recall campaign number 097 should cover me. However, I was told by Hyundai that my specific car does not fall under this recall, even though I my car has the exact symptoms of the recall. I was also told that because of recent recalls, my warranty would be extended. However, Hyundai has now told me that my warranty extension only covers the sole engine, and not the axles though they are part of and covered by the initial engine warranty. Hyundai has told me there are "kits" to fix these problems, but I have to pay over $1000 for the kits to fix, even though these were faulty parts by Hyundai. The Hyundai service manager I spoke with told me flat out that my car had faulty parts, but that the kits could fix them. I asked him whose fault it was that they were faulty, and he said that all car companies deal with this and it wasn't because of my driving. But even still so, I have to be the one to pay for Hyundai's faulty parts and non-existent recall help. I'm beyond frustrated after reading so many reviews and forums online of people with the exact same car symptoms as mine who are unfortunately also not covered by the recall. If I cannot get a better response and answer from this, I will be contacting the main lawyer who others have also contacted about this and filing an official lawsuit. I expected way better from Hyundai and am disgusted and disappointed at the lack of service, truthfulness, and integrity from this company at this point.

During cold weather, the 2. 0 turbo Sonata engine will cut power to the car and go into a "limp" mode if an over boost code (usually p0605 & p2110 ), is triggered. This causes an unsafe situation as there is very little power available to get out of the way or can cause a rear vehicle crash. There have been a couple times where this has happened on 0 degree days or even at 30 degrees. This will happen at any speed if the boost pressure is exceeded and makes for a very dangerous situation. The ecu should not be cutting power or fuel, it should be reducing the boost to compensate for temperature. The only way to restore the power to the engine, is to shut the car off and restart. . . . . Codes will still be active but the power will restore itself.

This car is equipped with a smartkey. Recently it has developed a starting problem that is directly related to the outdoor temp. It has been serviced several times by the local Hyundai dealer. They have replaced the shift interlock switch and the brake light switch. It is below zero this morning (2/21/2015) just one day after the brake light switch was replaced, and again the car refuses to start. When the start button is depressed everything lights up on the dash board but the engine will not even turn over, it is completely dead. The engine imobilizer light also comes on after attempting to move the shifter and the brake pedal becomes nearly impossible to depress! the car will be out of warranty soon. This needs to be resolved. The car has refused to start dozens of times with the very same issues. The car has left me stranded (at home to date) numerous times. When it warms up outdoors later in the day and the temp goes up to 25 - 30 degrees the car starts virtually every time and will start without a problem for the rest of the day. I have researched this problem on this website and other websites and push button ignition problems are very common on this car. Hyundai needs to come up with a proper fix for this problem. Numerous people report having the same switches replaced as on my car their problems were not solved either. It appears that Hyundai has never been able to come up with a proper fix for this issue or it is just to costly to implement. They have continually swept it under the rug.

There is a smell of gas/engine fumes notable in the vehicle on occasion. The problem does not happen consistently, however there are some common factors to when the smell in noticeable. These factors include: 1) the engine must be hot, generally having been driven for at least 15 minutes or more. The smell is never noticeable when the engine is cold, such as after sitting overnight. 2) the vehicle must be either moving at very slow speeds of <25 m. P. H. , or sitting still. Examples would include driving through parking lots, sitting at an idle for a long period at a stop light, when first starting the vehicle after sitting in a parking lot for awhile, etc. 3) when the gas / fume smell is notable with greatest intensity, it seems to occur after a hot engine soak of 15~45 minutes at ambient temperatures of 30 degrees fahrenheit or above and in conditions of moderate- to high-humidity. Examples include during periods of heavy fog, rainy days, snowstorms, etc. On occasion, the smell is strong enough that it is no longer comfortable to remain in the vehicle. Rolling down a window at speeds >25 m. P. H. To clear out the cabin air, followed by activating the hvac recirculation button will lessens immediate recurrence the smell to some extent. Finding ways to "mask" the smell are of lesser concern than determining why the smell exists in the first place. The vehicle has been in for this concern twice, with neither trip to the service bay having resolved the concern. While it does not appear to be an issue causing immediate danger (no noticeable fuel leaks or signs of fire), the smell of gas and engine fumes entering the passenger cabin is a bit concerning, both from a potential fire hazard in the future, and/or exposure to carbon dioxide and other noxious fumes while operating the vehicle. I will return the vehicle for a third visit to resolve this concern.

The contact owns a 2002 Hyundai Sonata. While driving 40 mph, the service engine soon light illuminated. On hot days (90 degree weather), the light illuminates and remains lit. However, in cooler weather, once the vehicle is turned off and restarted, the service engine soon light dims. The dealer stated that the VIN was not included in NHTSA campaign id number 04v178000 (fuel system, gasoline:storage:tank assembly). The current mileage was 40,300 and failure mileage was 40,000.

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I was driving along and the engine shut off suddenly. Crank shaft sensor failed three separate times in this vehicle. Once at 32,000 miles. Nearly lost control around a 90 degree bend. Second time occurred June 9th, 2005 at 83,000 miles after turning off a highway. Third time it occurred was July 15th, 2005. I was idling and attempted to put it in drive to proceed forward. I had it towed twice in three days to dealer. Each time, the sensor was replaced. The last two times the crank blade was also replaced. None of the times did I expect there to be any problems with driving the vehicle. Now I am worried a lot. The second time, I could tell it was happening since the rpm needle dropped to zero and then it shut off.

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The consumer's Hyundai Sonata developed the following problems: the paint was peeling, the sun roof was broken, the passenger side window was inoperative, the brakes failed, the seatbelt broke, the engine blew up and the air bags failed to deploy. The engine surged. As a result of the engine blowing, the right side disintegrated.

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While driving at any speed egr light stays on. Dealer examined the vehicle twice, and replaced the egr valve and the egr switch.

See all problems of the 1998 Hyundai Sonata 🔎.

The engine light continues to go on whenever I change gas stations, or level of octane when I put gas in my car. This will also cause the car not to start occassionally and emit black smoke from the exhaust before starting again. I brought it to the original dealer (milford, CT) numerous times where they just reset it because they could not locate the problem. I have since moved and brought it to the new local dealer (greensboro, nc) who also reset it and suggested I replace two exhaust system parts because they "think" that's what the problem is (possible leak in the exhaust system, however the mechanic clamped off the hoses at different points and could not determine there was actually a leak). These two parts combined cost over $500. 00. That's a high price to pay for something they "think" would solve the problem.

See all problems of the 1999 Hyundai Sonata 🔎.