Owners/service Manual Problems of Mazda MAZDA3

I initially had issue getting into and out of the 3rd and 4th gear (manual transmission car). I could feel gears grinding during shifting (with the clutch fully depressed). The dealer replaced the third gear. After the fix, the car now has difficulty getting into and out of gear 2 and 3. This problem is intermittent but is more noticeable after the initial start-up of the car, especially if the weather is cold (50f or colder). With the clutch fully pressed, I can still feel the gear rotating and grinding during shifting. When the car is cold, a lot of force is needed to shift the car into 2nd and 3rd gear. The shifting issue is less noticeable when once the car has been operating for 20mins.

See all problems of the 2014 Mazda MAZDA3 🔎.

On may 7, 2014, at approximately 11:00 pm I parked in a parking space, on a hill, at towson woods apartment complex. I turned the car off with the emergency brake engaged at over 3/4 of the way up. I was standing about 10 feet outside my car, which was off and stationary, talking to a friend for approximately 10-15 minutes when my car started to roll backwards of its own accord. I attempted to push it, which failed, and then I jumped into the drivers seat and tried to pull the emergency brake up as far as it could go, which did not stop the car. It then crashed into the bumper of another car. Because the wheel had been turned to the left when I parked, the car had rolled at an angle so that only the right side bumper made contact with the other car’s big aluminum bumper that sticks out. After driving the car out from against the bumper, I found there to be cosmetic damage that included the bumper sticking out. (estimate $855) may 16, 2014 at 9:00 am. After approximately an hour and a half I was told that the technicians found that the emergency brake applied when the handle was applied all the way up, which they termed “within normal operation. " however, for “peace of mind,” they told me that they tightened the brake so that now it only goes up 5 clicks. The actual wording used is “tech made minor adjustment so ebrake does not go all the way up. ” on may 21, 2014, at approximately 7:05 pm, I started my car and a flashing light on my dashboard appeared. This is the “bsm off” light, in regards to the blind spot monitoring. I read the manual and it said to clean the area where the bsm sensors are, which I did. It still was malfunctioning so I did the next step in the manual, which was to take the car to the dealer. Estimate $250 on June 2 the problem happened again. The parking brake goes all the way up. We are taking it back to the dealer again to have it fixed.

Hello, I was driving down a highway going about 30-40 mph in the passing lane. I went to accelerate past a truck when I noticed I wasn't gaining any speed. I looked down and the abs light was on. Thinking that I might be in a lower gear and my auto transmission wasn't shifting well I changed it over to manual. There were no gear lights indicated on the dash. I could not get any power to the transmission from the engine. I have to pull over on the side of the road, while still kind of on the road considering I had no power. In a desperate attempt I turned the car off and back on and everything seemed to be reset. I called Mazda today and they seemed almost like it was no big deal. Well I consider this a big deal, losing transmission power on a highway is a big deal. Anyways I saw a post a few days ago with the same exact issue. This should not happen!.

See all problems of the 2012 Mazda MAZDA3 🔎.

I was stopped at a red light. Once light turned green, I pressed on the gas and the car revved to 3000 rpm but was barely moving and would not shift out of first gear. I looked at my speed and noticed the tcs problem light was on. By this time other motorists were honking at me at cursing I'm sure but I couldn't get any speed to pull over quickly. I put the car in manual mode, but there were no numbers that indicated what gear I was in. I have no clue why the tcs light came on and pretty much disabled my car. I was able to pull over into a mall parking lot where I turned car off and called for help. However, when help arrived, and we started the car back up, the tcs light was off and everything worked fine. I drove the car home. After reading that others have had the same complaint as I have, I will make sure Mazda will have a look at my car and make them aware there is an issue.

Around 3000 miles, manual transmission developed issue of not going into first gear from a stop. Dealer investigated and said that this is a quirk with the transmission and can be safely ignored by starting in a higher gear, which wears out the transmission faster. As of three weeks ago at this point, transmission developed intermittent issue where it "pops" out of second gear or grinds and damages internal parts before automatically moving to neutral. This occurs after a normal shift. Also has develop issue where is does not properly go into reverse, instead going into first gear. Dealer says that since there are no obd2 computer codes coming up, they are not allowed by the Mazda head office to remove the transmission and physically look at it. Currently I am very hesitant to drive the car at all due to the fact the I drive in heavy traffic while commuting 50 miles a day. I am not confident that my transmission will properly function at highway, local traffic, or residential speeds. I have barely avoided several accidents until the reverse gear issue became consistent. I have been driving manual transmissions for about 10 years and these issues have only appeared as this current car has aged very poorly. The drive train has shredded 50,000 mile tires in less than 25,000 miles. I fear what damage will happen because this issue seems to be occurring with way too much frequency among the 2011 Mazda3's with a manual transmission as per the other posts. I would appreciate any help in having Mazda properly investigate and resolve this issue to prevent further tragedy from the very high potential for a loss of life or bodily function incident.

See all problems of the 2011 Mazda MAZDA3 🔎.

Date & mileage approximate. I was driving 35mph and sped up to merge 1 lane to my right so I wouldn¿t miss my turn. I sped up, maybe to 40 and the traction control light went on and there was no acceleration at that point. I am glad I didn't get rear ended but did get flipped off for cutting someone off and slowing down. I made my turn and hit the traction control button but it stayed lit. I have an automatic with the manual option, I tried driving manually,the light didnt go off. I then pulled over tried the traction button again, it stayed lit. The weather condition was warm and nice out. I turned the car off for a few minutes, started it, light was off and it drove fine. If this happened and the driver behind me hadnt paid attention I would have been hit! I dont want to think about having to cross a street where the oncoming car had right of way and my car didnt accelerate. On another note I have had my car unlock itself 3 times, when I know it was locked with the fob. The fob is not damaged in any way. Twice in same location weeks apart. It was locked, beeped the lights flashed. My keys were set down untouched after that, not in my pocket moving around but on the counter. First time I thought I must have forgotten; my car got ransacked. Second time I knew I locked it, itold myself maybe the cat stepped perfectly on the key fob, on just the unlock button that night. My car got ransacked again but to their surprise nothing was in the car as everything was stolen the first #@#& time! the third time I had a witness watch me lock the car with the fob and I even checked all the handles-locked. We left the restaurant, again unlocked. I cant leave anything in my car because I fear it may happen again. . I wonder if someones key fob is on the same frequency and strangers are unlocking it? im going to the dealership in a few days. Im afraid to drive and park my car.

I left the lights on and this drained the battery. I had my jumper cables in the spare-wheel compartment. There was no way to open the hatch (fifty door) from the inside, or any other way. Seems like the only way that the back door opens is electronically. This is a flaw in testing and design, this needs addressed for safety reasons, numerous to mention. Suggestion: have a manual latch to open the back door (hatch) from the inside in the event electrical power is lost.