Battery Cable Problems of Chevrolet Impala

I own a 2004 chevy Impala 3. 8l with approx 179,000 milew. My complaint is in relation to the passlock iii system and the overwhelming amount of "no start" complaints from all the different models of gm car owners across the board with this faulty anti-theft system. I live right smack in the heart of the south in a very small town in tennessee and keep in mind, it is really hot and humidity is ridiculous this time of year. I picked up my daughter at a friends house after work, about 5:25 pm last thurday, 9/5/19, and my car died as I'm driving down the road, like the engine jus shut off for no reason at all , I had filled my tank a few days prior and knew that was not the problem. My first thought was to put in neutral before losing much speed and tried to crank several times before hitting my flashers because there were a few cars behind me on a 2 lane road with very little shoulder room to pull over off road. I popped the good to see if I could see or maybe even smell anything that may have caused this problem. I'm making sure my battery cables aren't loose, no fluids leaking or spewing and luckily a state trooper was passing thru and stopped to see if I needed help and turned his lights on so traffic would know there were problems and could slowly go around. To my surprise, after explaining what happened, he said he had this problem before with his daughters car, 2002 Impala, and told me to try the 10 minute reset procedure and sure enough, after that 10 minute reset, she fired right home and was able to get home, home had he not come along and already known bout this faulty system prior, my daughter and I would have been stuck for some time on the side of a 2 lane highway in the early September humidity most likely waiting for a tow. Upon researching after, found gm are aware of this problem and should have to fix it, been neglected long enough! thank you!.

See all problems of the 2004 Chevrolet Impala 🔎.

Started with the autolock doors fail sometimes, then the car started shutting off and not starting I've had it in the garage twice,to no avail it ended up being towed back to my residence two days after repair. Replaced the battery, the battery cable and a relay.

See all problems of the 2009 Chevrolet Impala 🔎.

Issues w/starting vehicle, doesn't turn over, single click. This started 3 wks ago. Security light came on and stayed on, would not start. . Reset of diagnostics, car will start a few times then not start. Remove battery cables also fixes the problem but only temporarily purchased used, replaced recalls: key knobs & valve cover gasket,.

See all problems of the 2000 Chevrolet Impala 🔎.

Ongoing issue with error message relating to "service traction control" "reduced engine power" appeared 4/10/2016. Ongoing history and service related to throttle position and sensor (also serviced) codes p2176; p 2135. 8/1/15 I have addressed through replacing of throttle position and sensor; battery cable (dealership svc dept suggested low voltage related to this issue - retested, issue continues) parts store has suggested "throttle actuator control module p 1516' codes also include p0121, po2135, p2119 found pmc to be faulty -- "repair and replaced" 12/30/2014; throttle body assembly replaced on April 5, 2014. This has been an ongoing issue for two years. Engine power drops and car will only drive at a low speed < 40mph. This is when the car is in motion. Various attempts to resolve the problem have been unsuccessful. This issue began at apx 140k miles and has reoccurred at 166l, 167k, 180k, 193k. Speeds that it has occurred has been at highway speeds of 60-65mpg to residential 25-35mph. Records have services dates are available; too many to upload all.

See all problems of the 2006 Chevrolet Impala 🔎.

The contact owns a 2009 Chevrolet Impala. While driving various speeds, the traction control, check engine, and reduce power warning indicators illuminated. In addition, the vehicle stalled. The battery cable needed to be disconnected and reconnected in order for the vehicle to restart. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 70,000.

Frequently, service traction control and engine power is reduced lights come on. When this happens, car is sluggish and will not accelerate. This is very dangerous because it happens unexpectedly and causes vehicle to decelerate quickly. Typically the car will start normally after sitting for 15-30 minutes but check engine light remains on for some time. Also, the message engine hot/ac off fires randomly. Temperature gauge rests at zero. It will start working again either through manual reset by removing battery cables and reconnecting or randomly start working again on its own. There are numerous reports of both issues on the internet which indicate replacement of sensors/throttle are very expensive and do not fix the issues.

See all problems of the 2008 Chevrolet Impala 🔎.

Car was just started, in parking lot, getting ready to drive and electrical system shutdown completely. Couldn't take key out, or restart, no lights, no electrical activity at all, but it had just been running. After several minutes, it all came back on and restart, and drove ok. There had been battery problems in the past, corrosion on terminal, which was repaired. The battery cable where the wire enters the positive terminal was not completely tight. The internet has reports from several people reporting this same event on Impalas, of several different model years. Most of these though, it happened while they were driving down the road, and some reported accidents that resulted. Prior to all the modern electronics, if the engine was running and the alternator was working, the engine would never just shut down even if the battery connection was bad. This is a very dangerous situation, where the car can just shut off and the operator loses all power systems. No power steering, extremely difficult braking, and the possibility of the steering wheel locking (though the latter did not happen to us). When operating the car in hilly or mountainous roads, where there are steep drop offs on shoulder side, and semi-trucks coming in opposite direction, surely this has potential as deadly situation. Would like to see redundancy, if alternator is producing, don't shut down electrical system. Rather, just give warning. Also, be sure that no car would ever lock the steering wheel when electrical systems malfunction. I am afraid to have my wife drive the car until a new battery cable is installed.

We bought this vehicle on March 27th 2013. On April 20th 2013 (that is 24 days). The key became stuck in the ignition, the car will start and run but you cant shut it off and remove the key, therefore we have to remove the cable to the battery everytime we get out of the car , because if we don't, the battery is dead when we come back. Of course we find out after we buy it that this is a common problem and is expensive to fix. We feel very strongly that this should be recalled and fixed. We are relying on this car to go to work and take our children to school. We shouldn't have to remove and replace the battery cable evertime we get in and out. When we purchased a chevy we expected it to work like it is supposed to.

While traveling away from home I parked my car and the key is stuck in the ignition. This is a safety hazard due to I had to leave the keys in the car. The next morning the car would not start due to the battery being drained because the key was not in the off position. Therefore I had to be troubled with finding jumper cables while away from home or be towed to the nearest Chevrolet dealer (whom I might add did not have a technician that could fix it on a Saturday morning). I called another Chevrolet dealer in another county close by and their service department is closed on Saturday. So therefore I have had to either leave my vehicle running, loosen the battery cables or be close by to another vehicle that can give me a jump. (more inconvenience and safety hazards for a female) I notice while researching the problem online that this problem has occurred on the Impala since the year 2000. It is now 2013 and the problem has not been recalled or improved over the years. I feel this not only is an inconvenience to me (your customer) but also is a safety feature that has failed to exceed my expectations of driving a Chevrolet vehicle. I expect and hope that my inconvenience can have an impact on Chevrolet to not only take care of my problem but correct the situation and recall the problem so other individuals will not experience this turmoil. Research also reflected that the cost to me, the owner would be about $600 or more to fix the problem. Right now I am still with the key stuck in the ignition. (more inconvenience of being a chevy customer) I suppose I will expect a check in the mail to cover the expenses this has caused to me (your customer). Also a Ford dealer has stated they can fix the problem. I see something wrong with that picture. Bumper to bumper warranty has expired. . . . . Thank you for your attention to this inconvenience.

See all problems of the 2010 Chevrolet Impala 🔎.

Recently, when I arrived at a local business center, I attempted to turn the ignition key to off and I could not. The key was stuck in the acc position, and thus could not be removed. In addition, all the accessories were on. Reluctantly, I had to leave my car in a public parking lot with the power on and my keys dangling in the ignition. When I drove home, once again the key would not rotate to the off position -- it remained at acc. I attempted many fixes for the problem -- repeatedly shifting into park, turning the steering wheel, etc. I was forced to leave the car on, and with the key in the ignition. My battery in time would be dead. Perhaps worse, my car was just sitting there waiting for an opportunistic thief. I searched online for help and found scores of reports of Impala owners who had the identical problem. The ignition key gets stuck in acc and can't be removed. It's an intolerable situation because you can't secure your car. Not to mention that you can't turn the accessories off, so you have a guaranteed drained battery. . Read more...

See all problems of the 2003 Chevrolet Impala 🔎.

Bought the car in August 2010 noproblem for ayear went to star thecar would not start security ligt was on had problems with it ever sense security light on car wont start unplug battery cable for 10 seconds it would start happens every feww days went out tostart my car on Saturday 8/17 /13 car wouldnt start no crnk no electrical sysems not working.

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(1) nothing appears to lead up to the failure. At least there seems to be no rhyme or reason to it. (2) the failure is the car will not start at times. We bought the car used with approx. 26m miles on it. It did not do this for the first couple of years we had it, then it started it. At first we thought it was the battery since the car was about 3 years old at that time. That didn't stop it from doing it. Someone where we go to have the oil changed said he knew what to do when it does it which was disconnecting a battery cable. That seemed to work for awhile and then that stopped working. At first when it did it, it would only be approx. 15 minutes before it would start. Now it is up to over an hour. (3) the only money we have socked into it has been for a battery. From what I can gather on the internet, this is a very common problem.

The contact owns a 2002 Chevrolet Impala. At least once a week, whenever the contact attempts to start the vehicle, the security light illuminates on the instrument panel and the vehicle will not start. The vehicle loses total power. She has to disconnect the positive battery cable and then reconnect the cable. After she waits for it recharge itself, the vehicle will start immediately or two hours later. The dealer stated that the body control module needed to be replaced at the cost of $445. The failure mileage was 133,000. *updated 10/20/08 updated 10/21/08.

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I wanted him to check my driver side back door because it wouldn't open very easily at times, and the window to that same door would not open at times. Also, my trunk wouldn't open when one would use the trunk release button at times. I also had him check my dimming headlights, my steering which had a jerk in it when I went around curves, clicking sound in engine and an over all check since my warranty is about to run out in 1,000 miles. Turn out-after leaving the dealer my air conditioner was humming like a helicopter, my brakes were horrible and grinding and the car feels like it has no get up and go power. I took my car to brake check after leaving because when the dealer did the overall check of my car they said I needed a front brake job. And they wanted to charge me over 200. 00 dollars. The dealer told me it was not covered under my warranty. Well brake check took off all four tires and found that my problem was due to left and right caliper problems on the inboard side and left rear hard wear problems and wear on the outboard side. The caliper is engaging but not disengaging and caused my pads to wear out and my rotors are ate up. The pads are not worn evenly which is definitely a sign of caliper problems. Also, the dealer upon the overall inspection of my car said that my intake gaskets were ruined and leaking coolant. They said they replaced them, however I am afraid that there is further damage to my vehicle that they are not telling me, just like my brakes. Due to the fact that steve at lone star told me that it was caused due to lack of oils changes and gil said it was a problem with the gaskets being improperly seated from the factory or just a defect in the gasket. Well is this why my car has no get up anymore? my car also made a grinding sound when hitting bumps under the right front fender area that nothing was done about and my headlight problem they said was due to a faulty battery cable.

Battery has been replaced. After a year battery was leaking. Also vehicle had trouble starting up. Contacted dealer ,and the dealer replaced battery.