Battery Cable Problems of Chevrolet Silverado

Locks started locking/unlocking. Gear indicator was going from drive to park. Heat came on by itself and fan went from high to low. Speedometer went from 70mph to 55 mph with loss of engine power. Headlights were flashing on and off. After pulling off I-75 and getting to a safe stopping area the truck would not start after turning the the engine off. The engine compartment felt extremely hot: especially the battery. After 10 minutes, the truck was able to start and continue the rest of the trip. After doing some internet research, this problem is well documented on various chevy forums and and car message boards. Replacing the mega fuse and battery cables appears to solve the majority of the issues as it did in my case. The defective mega fuse and battery cables caused the excessive voltage through the cables, causing extreme heat which resulted in scorch marks on the terminal ends of the battery cables and the insulation of the cables changing color as well as the above issues. I am very grateful that an electrical fire didn't happen which I believe could have easily been the case.

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The contact owns a 2008 Chevrolet Silverado. The contact stated that while driving at 5 mph, the engine stalled. The vehicle was taken to a dealer, who diagnosed that the battery cables needed to be replaced. The vehicle was repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 63,445.

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Several times while driving at various speeds the stability control warning light would flash, the door locks would cycle and the gauges would stop working. After a few seconds the warning light would go off and the truck would return to normal. I took the vehicle to the dealer and I was informed that both battery cables had high resistance and needed to be replaced. It is ridiculous that battery cables need to be replaced at 62000 miles. The service adviser made a comment that this was a common problem but it usually happens while the vehicle is still under warranty.

2008 Chevrolet Silverado having electrical problems. Door locks cycling, a/c not working intermittent, alt gauge fluctuating, fuel gauge fluctuating, engine stall, abs & tcs lights blinking. I reported the problem to my dealer and the kept it for a week. They ended up replacing the 175 amp megafuse and battery cables. I got back and have driven it for a week and everything seems to be working properly except the alt gauge. I intend on calling them back next week so I can drive it a little longer to see if any of the other issues persist.

Approximately in 2006, with only 30,000 miles, I noticed antifreeze pooling under my 1097 Silverado pickup. I took my vehicle to an auto repair shop and was told that it needed a new radiator. The radiator was replaced. Approximately one month later the same problem. The radiator was again leaking. The radiator was replaced three times until the owner of the repair shop stated that he would no longer replace the radiator and explained that the 1997 Silverado pickup was known for a condition called. Electrolysis. It was suggested that I remove the battery cable after each time I drove the vehicle. I started to removing the positive battery cable and within 3 weeks the same problem. I then contacted rudolph Chevrolet dealership in el paso, texas. They refused to tackle the problem and referred me to emmitt radiator shop, also in el paso, texas. They advised that they would charge $80. 00 per hour with a minimum of 10 to 12 hours with no guarantee. They did suggest that I remove both positive and negative battery cables. This is where the problem with the exploding battery comes to light. When I would try to remove the battery cables after each trip, even to the movies or out to dinner, the battery would be so hot that it would burn my hands. I also kept replacing the batteries and finally ask a saleswoman at auto zone supply house what was wrong with the batteries and he pointed to the battery and said, "look at the sides of the battery, how it is extending outward it could explode". Again I was told me that they did not have the equipment to fix the problem. This falls into the category of a lemon and general motors knew of this problem or should have known of this problem the the 1997 Silverado pickup and have placed consumers in harms way.

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: the contact stated after turning the ignition switch to the off position, the engine continued to run. The battery cables and the fuses were pulled and the engine continued running for another 45 minutes. As the vehicle was driven to the dealer the transmission would not shift out of third gear and the dashboard lights illuminated. The dealer determined the problem was in the ignition switch and the switch was replaced. Updated 10/30/2006 -.

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While driving down the interstate at 70 mph, the engine suddenly stalled, resulting in the engine to quit. Since our truck has a standard transmission, the driver simply "popped" the clutch and the engine started. About 10 miles later, the engine stalled several more times causing the engine to quit again forcing us to pull to the shoulder. We checked the battery cables, but the engine would not turn over. After a few minutes the engine started, but continued to stall. While in neutral,the rpm's were jumping over 3000 then falling below 500. At the same time, the battery gage was reading nearly nothing. No warning or check engine lights ever appeared . Since we were in another state 500 miles from home, our only choice was to continue until we could find a gm mechanic. The engine continued to stall and misfire for another 60 miles. Since we were a mere 702 miles over our factory warranty, the dealership told us we would have to schedule an appointment, and the next opening would be in 8 days. Instead,we were able to find a local mechanic shop, and in a matter of minutes the mechanic found the cause of the stalling to be a wire that plugs into the coil pack. He called the gm dealership for a replacement, and was told it would have to be ordered from the manufacturer and it would take a week or more to arrive. The mechanic told us the factory wire was not necessary, he could simply splice into the wire to fix our problem. Since staying an additional week was not an option, we agreed to have the mechanic fix the wire by splicing it. We began to experience similar stalling 10,000 miles later. There are 2 wires that enter the same clip then plugs into the coil. The cause of stalling the second time was the wire opposite of the one replaced before. This leads me to believe that there may be a defect in the coil itself, or merely low-quality wires installed by gm.

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<cac@Chevrolet. Com> subject: owner assistance: p. Adams subject: customer has serious issues mossy Chevrolet date: Monday, September 19, 2005 4:59 pm to Chevrolet: management and customer relations:from: webmaster. Fss@gsa. Gov sent: Saturday, September 17, 2005 10:14 pm subject: gm 2001 firestone steeltex a/t custom alloy wheels w/a/t tires. That makes 8 rims but end result was the tires where firestone lt245/75-16 steeltex a/t. 50psi. Load range c spec. Or numbers on tires 108/104rm/s tpc spec. 2313 (00 8008) (08162 0r5) (lt245/75-r16) firestone steeltex a/t tires on customers truck where defective and sight of sidewall deformations customer given incorrect response to request before warranty expired it was brought to mossy Chevrolet that customer advising service writer of continuous problems with vehicle tires [peeling] gm in their 'commitment to safety' warranties such defects I will be filing for 'reimbursement' claim, along those grounds. May I suggest that you familiarize yourselves with what and how you sell. Denying or misrepresenting any terms of those agreements are fraud. My time was mis-used and wasted along with me and any passengers in vehicle where in unnecessary jeopardy from these practices. [plus the general public] if a serious accident would have occurred. The price of your actions [should have] anything more serious happened (you can't put a price on life) other than me losing the front tire and grinding to a stop on rim is not worth it. Learn this know it.

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For over 2 years and 30,000 miles the speedometer in my 2004 Chevrolet Silverado pickup has been sticking. Starting at about 20,000 miles about every 3 or 4 months the speedometer needle would stick at 25 mph, 30 mph or 35 mph. This sticking was where the speedometer needle would stop at when you turned the key off. When the needle would stick it caused the speedo to read incorrect speed. The vehicle was under warranty when this started. I did not take it into the dealership because it would require taking a whole day to take it in and the dealer would not guarantee he would fix it in one visit. The dealer said bring it in. They would check it and order the parts. Then bring it back when the parts arrived. Before wasting the time with the dealer I tried removing the battery cable and allowing the computer system to reset itself. This worked for the first 10 times the speedo stuck. The speedo is stuck again and removing the battery cable over 10 times has not reset the speedo correctly. Gm has known about this speedo problem for over 5 years but is only bandaiding the problem. This speedo problem is a safety issue.

While applying brakes abs light came on, and a loud hmming sound started, even after the vehicle switch was turned off. Sound continued until battery cable was disconnected. Dealer was notified. Feel free to provide any further information on this mattter.

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Engine compartment fire due to a short to ground occurred with in positive battery cable. Vehicle was totalled. Dealer has been notified.

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Design flaw of the location of components resulted in a bracket rubbing against battery cable resulting in fire, destroying motor in vehicle.

The postive side connection leaked acid from the battery causing loss of power to the vehicle. Several times this occurred while trying to turn and gain access to the highway leaving the vehicle without power and sitting in the travel lanes. My mechanic was able to track down the problem and the battery was replaced curing the defect.

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