Owners/service Manual Problems of Ford Escape

The car has had issues starting since I brought it from a used dealer last September. Over time it got more difficult to crank. I started checking youtube to see if it were just me and came to learn that there is a great multitude of others having the same issue with their Ford Escapes. The locking mechanism from the key that flips the ignition switch is either too week or it doesn't turn far enough for the vehicle to crank. I have had to remove the covering from my steering wheel and manually use the spare key as an extension of the o e inside the ignition, in order for the vehicle to crank. The same process is required in turning the car off. Right now it works, however could be a hazard with all of the wiring in the steering wheel exposed. And who is to say that one day the vehicle won't just shut off in the middle of the highway with the key and ignition switch having an imaginary physical connection?.

See all problems of the 2010 Ford Escape 🔎.

While steadily driving at 40 mph on a two-lane highway, I suddenly lost engine power and simultaneously received a warning message on the driver's display to stop vehicle safely now. I was able to drive to where road had a shoulder, but the car's speed was limited to maybe 10 mph even with the accelerator pressed. (the car is a hybrid, but had only very limited propulsive power in what seemed to be an electric mode. ) the gas engine did not kick in even when the accelerator was pressed. After unsuccessfully trying to troubleshoot the problem using the owner's manual, I pressed the start/stop button to turn off the car, then pressed it again to restart. The gas engine started, I regained the ability to accelerate, and the car appeared to function normally. Subsequently, the car was towed to two dealerships to diagnose the problem. The manufacturer has been contacted and the problem has been "escalated" as efforts continue to further diagnose and then correct the problem. At the time of the incident, the car's heater was on, as were the daytime running lights. The radio was probably on. The navigation screen was displayed but we were not using the gps to navigate. My cell phone was not on, but it was lying on the console. (I believe there is a large cell phone tower within several hundred yards of where the incident occurred. ) the car had less than 500 miles on it. One of the dealerships received a diagnostic code p1aoc when testing the car. I was told this means that a "system overload" was detected. In response to the code, I was told that the system was "reset" and then checked for updates. I am awaiting further news from the second dealership.

See all problems of the 2020 Ford Escape 🔎.

After starting ignition and car idols/driven heavy gas/emissions smell fills cabin when using heat/a/c or defrost systems. Engine light sometimes goes on. Car has 35,100 mi. Took car to queens NY Ford service center 4 hours later $400 later, changed cabin filter and sprayed fragrance on it. Told must use cabin recycle air function. Ford owners manual doesnt say must use and in no other car have had to must use this function. I have a case# cas24667125 and appt for 11/6/19. Ford built this car tech's should know how to fix this!.

See all problems of the 2014 Ford Escape 🔎.

Driver side door alert remains on even when door is shut tight and locked. Upon placing key in ignition dinging is constant and door icon stays on. When locking vehicle upon exiting with remote it double beeps and interior lights stay lit. When locking doors with power locks from inside vehicle they automatically pop back unlocked. Door latch is fine. Door will shut and lock through manual means. Sensor is misreading actions and causing safety issue with unable to lock doors while driving.

See all problems of the 2012 Ford Escape 🔎.

I have owned my 2015 Escape since March 2016. Beginning 6 weeks ago the car failed to recognize the Ford key. Had car towed. Told battery needed to be replaced. Replaced both car and key fob batteries. Within 7 days the car refused to start after sitting in the garage for 3 days. Had to get it towed and the battery recharged. Third time the car refused to start it had been driven and then left sitting for 5 days. Once again had to have a jump start. Took into dealership and told diagnostic info states no issues. Technician is unable to duplicate car refusing to recognize key fob or not starting. Explained that car once jumped started runs fine as long as I drive it day to day. Once it has been sitting for 2 or more days does it again refuse to start. Appears that something somewhere within the electrical system is pulling all the juice out of the battery regardless of what the onboard computer says. Second issue with this car has been the rear hatch. Technician inspected the rear hinges and said they are bent so when you close the hatch using the button on the hatch or key fob, hatch comes down but won't latch tight and goes back open. If you manually slam the hatch shut, the latch seemed to be tight however my hatch is not square anymore. It is tight to the passenger side but has a 1/4 gap on the right side which lets in air and water into the car. Told that I'd need to have a body shop take the hatch off and replace both hinges. This car has never had an accident nor has it been treated roughly so explain to me how the hatch got out of alignment to the point it is causing issues with shutting tightly? this seems to be a design flaw where the hinges installed are too light weight to stand up to normal wear and usage. Living in the upper midwest this car is exposed to winter weather including salt and road sand which in turn can get into open spaces and rust.

See all problems of the 2015 Ford Escape 🔎.

Rear door handles do not automatically retract after opening from the outside, causing the door not to latch when closed, although it appears to be closed. Exterior handles must be manually retracted after opening in order for the door to latch closed. Vehicle was stationery. This happens every time the door is opened and has happened several times. Both rear doors are affected. Front doors do not appear to be affected.

See all problems of the 2017 Ford Escape 🔎.

The vehicle was in motion being driven when heavy rain began. The wipers would not turn on in any level, manual or otherwise. This created an extreamly dangerous situation with little to no visibility. The dealer did not disclose the problems with the 2014 Ford Escape bcm but indicated was the cause. They however did not replace it, but did charge $450 for diagnosis only. No actual repair was made. This vehicle should be under recall. It is again affecting the wiper control intermittently.

While driving down a city street my truck began revving as if it were trying to change gears or accelerate without my adding any additional pressure on the gas pedal. At one point I had taken my foot completely off the gas pedal and it was revving up. This occurred about 3 times over the course of a half mile approximately. Once I entered my subdivision every time I came to a stop sign and made a stop my truck would get "stuck". I would press the gas pedal in an attempt to drive forward and the truck would not move. The vehicle was in drive and remained running and never shut off. After several attempts to drive forward to no avail I had to place the gear in park and manually turn off my truck and restart it and place the gear back in drive in order to be able to move forward. This happened 3 times in my subdivision after coming to a stop. Upon finally making it to my driveway I placed the gear in reverse in an attempt to back into my driveway and the truck began driving forward instead. I have not driven my truck since this happened as it is very unsafe to operate. I also have not yet had it serviced because I have seen on the news that Ford has a recall coming on some vehicles due to transmission issues that sound like what I have experienced so I am waiting to get notice of the official recall list to see if my make and model are included.

See all problems of the 2008 Ford Escape 🔎.

Without warning transmission completely fails. No indication of problems, just dropped the transmission on the way to work. Thank goodness there was no traffic behind us or we were in an intersection. Just completely stopped pulling while traveling down the road at 45 mph. Transmission rebuilt. Since then and still currently the charging light stays on constantly. Has been in the automotive repair shop for a month and no one can find a problem or match the codes with an apparent problem. On it's way to a second shop for another opinion. Idles high both in park and in gear, constant vibration inside the vehicle (steering wheel, dash, console etc. ). Dash/speedometer makes humming noise in the afternoons. Alarm has randomly gone off twice and interior lights would not go out on their own - had to turn off manually. "right rear door ajar" or "lift gate ajar" messages were displayed, but the doors were fine. Message did not reset when re-closing the doors, just reset eventually on its own. Gas mileage has dropped to 15 mpg. Radio volume will not come down. Get louder if you touch it. This problem has been going on awhile, but now with everything else possibly electrically going on, don't know if it's related. We've already spent around $2000. 00 on it and I still don't feel safe to drive it, especially after reviewing all the complaints this model Escape has had. Without diagnosis of a problem, I fear it may escalate to other computer issues and cause far worse driving/safety problems. Undetermined electrical/interior going crazy seems to be a common complaint even when what appears to be the problem is addressed. I am disappointed to be having such problems with this Ford. My husband actually recently purchased a used Acura instead of a Ford because of it. I have no transportation of my own until these safety/reliability issues are resolved.

See all problems of the 2006 Ford Escape 🔎.

Speed decelerated on interstate. Could not increase speed. Engine, sound sysyem, ligjts and steering maintained operable. Had to coast to outside lane and exit freeway. Wrench lite came on and manual indicated throttle control. Have seen numerous complaints about this issue. Had been experiencing slow speed inceleration, bit never this. It was a true state of panic in 5pm rush hour traffic.

See all problems of the 2009 Ford Escape 🔎.

Ehicles gas pedal gets stuck up and cannot be depressed at all while car is on and I am driving. It happened this week several times on very cold days. While driving or while stopped at light and trying to go I cannot depressed the pedal, even when pushing hard. Eventually it depressed for me after several tries. Vehicle gas pedal has also gotten stuck down twice previously with car accelerating uncontrollably, which happened for almost a minute then it popped up - resulted in near collision { thank goodness its a manual transmission]. I have read in many on-line discussion boards of many other individuals having their gas pedal on Ford Escapes stick up or down also.

See all problems of the 2005 Ford Escape 🔎.

Vehicle airbag light goes on and off intermittently. This happens whether parked or driving, whether there is a passenger or not. Vehicle will "rev" in park, if the steering wheel is turned slightly, bumped or move. Twice vehicle has "jumped" while in parked when this has happened. Major issue: door locks will not open. There is no manual lock on the doors, only electronic. No place for a key. Passengers have been locked inside with no way to exit vehicle except to climb over seat. Will happen to various doors, most often the front passenger door, but not all doors at the same time (we believe this may happen,) door lock will click 3 times but will not unlock.

See all problems of the 2004 Ford Escape 🔎.

While driving at 71 mph with the cruise control on, I noticed a slowing down feeling, the cruise control light went off, the wrench light illuminated. I pulled to the berm. I turned off the engine. According to the manual it was the throttle. It took 2 tries to restart car, the wrench light went off. A Ford dealership was 5 min. From incident. According to invoice, they performed throttle body update. I was told if the light came on again, it might need a throttle body. I asked if they could perform the work, they stated without the light being on, they couldn't do the work under the warranty. Meanwhile I was over 200 miles from home, and needed to get home. It felt so unsafe for 5hours of driving. The car has surges of power, downshifts with jolts, and clunking sounds when it does shift. This is how it drove from the beginning, I began to think it was normal so never reported it. Also, since the work was done I noticed the rpms at idling are high, I can pull into the garage without putting my foot on the gas the rpms are at 2 at 30 miles an hour, same as at 70 miles an hour. I'm contacting Ford about the rules of the warranty and how unsafe it feels to drive the vehicle. How many accidents, deaths will it take to get the real work done, not a patch up job.

See all problems of the 2011 Ford Escape 🔎.

Vehicle surged forward when I came to a stop vehicle would not go into gear until I was at 3500 -4000 rpm. I got on freeway &couldn't get to speed limit. The wrench light is illuminated & when I looked up description in manual it states it is the throttle control/powertrain. After doing some research they do have recalls for this but on the 2009-2012 models. It also specified that Ford as of Feb. 2014 had issued an extended warranty for throttle body assemblies for 2005 - 2012 for 10 years or 150,000 miles. I contacted Ford & then state there is no recall nor consumer satisfaction program 13n03 for my car. Yet, the have the same consumer satisfaction program for the 2011 milans. This I know cause my daughter has a 2011 milan & she received notice. I do not understand how Ford can not comply when this Escape clearly has the same problems as the recalled vehicles for 2009-2012. All I was told was to get it fixed & keep receipt and maybe some day could get reimbursed. This is really frustrating and on Ford's part totally unaware and unfair to their consumers!.

I bought my 2008 Ford Escape used in November 2013. In December 2013 the gas pedal started sticking each time I went to accelerate. It gets stuck "up", meaning I have to pound my foot on the gas pedal in order for it to accelerate forward. My Ford is a manual transmission and this makes it not only dangerous on the road but almost impossible to not stall out all the time. Called dealership and they were of no help. Said car was used and it is what it is. It is now may 2014 and it my family and I can hardly get anywhere. Car is very dangerous. Took car to midas for a tune up and an estimate. Midas stated my car needs a brand new throttle unit, throttle cable and a 3 part fuel kit. This will cost roughly $1000. 00 midas stated. We don't have that kind of money. I don't feel safe driving my children around and come to find out that Ford extended a warranty for Ford Escapes 2009-2012 for this same exact fuel kit and throttle issues. 2008 Ford Escapes are having the same issue for many consumers. Please help me. My family and I can't afford to get this repaired and my 6 and 8 year old (and my fiancã©) can't be driven around in this car. My own safety is one thing and I will ensure I get to work everyday, but someone is going to get hurt if this is warranty isn't extended or recalled for Ford 2008 Escapes as well. I have all midas service paperwork and documentation if needed. Please help us. We are in danger each time I drive this car and we need a car to drive. Thank you-cincinnati, ohio/ may 2014.

Started to work one morning, have a manual trans after driving about 13 miles went to shift into 4th the accelerator would not move. After several attempts it finally broke free and I continued to work w/o incident. Since then it happens on a weekly basis different times of the day and diff temps no rhyme or reason. Researched and found many other with the same problem. This morning was different. I was only 4 miles from home and the accelerator was stuck again. I was only in 2nd gear, I pushed on the accelerator hard it broke loose but this time it got stuck while almost to the floor and the car took off spinning tires. There was not much I could do but put the clutch in shift to neutral. When I finally stopped the accelerator was stuck again so that I could not accelerate and now my clutch was gone. It is now not drivable. So very very dangerous. Does there need to be a fatality for something to be done?.

I was driving in the far left hand lane on a highway at about 65 mph when all of a sudden my vehicle lost power and would not accelerate when I pushed the accelerator pedal. I immediately put on my flashers and began moving over one lane at a time until finally reaching the shoulder of the road. While doing so, when the vehicle speed was down to about 20 mph, it started shaking (like a jerking back and forth motion). After letting the car rest for about 10 minutes I tried to start it up. The vehicle started, but the check engine indicator light was illuminated. I followed the directions in the vehicles manual and drove slowly to my mechanic, not accelerating or decelerating abruptly. The initial diagnostic test indicated that the mass air flow sensor needed to be cleaned and this was performed. The vehicle seemed to be running normally for about one week, both on highway and local city roads. One week later, driving about 20 mph on a local street, the same thing happened. I brought the vehicle back to my mechanic who after doing the diagnostics told me that the throttle body needed to be replaced. Apparently the mechanic followed the bulletins which were issued by the vehicle manufacturer, which by virtue of issuing these bulletins knew of the potential problem. I believe that this issue is a major safety concern. I was lucky, I was able to move my vehicle to the shoulder of the highway because at the time there was not much traffic. Definitely, if I was driving at 65mph, and there was a car behind me travelling at the same speed, there would be know way for them to stop, when my car decelerated so rapidly.

I was traveling 55 mph down the highway and suddenly, the vehicle lost power. I pushed on the gas and nothing. I coasted to the side of the road and noticed a yellow wrench. I looked it up in the manual and it stated something about a power train error or defect and to contact a Ford dealership immediately. Well, considering I was over 60 miles from home, I turned if off, sat for a few minues, and started it. No wrench so I began to drive. I drove another 15 miles or so and then the same thing happened. I was able to start it up and get it going again but once I parked it, I had it towed and it's been sitting ever since. I called Ford and the mechanic gave me the impression it was covered under the manufacturers warranty as long as I'm under 50,000 miles but I'm started to read otherwise which has me concerned. To reiterate what others were saying, if I were in a busy highway, this "error" may have been fatal. No problems or anything prior to these occurences so the malfunction comes suddenly and without warning.

As per my vehicle report fromo the dealership: concern : tech notes clutch slave cylinder is leaking. Cause: verify concern, find that vehicle has clutch fluid leaking from inside bell housing area. Correction: remove trans & inspect, find that slave cyl is seeping fluid. Install new slave cyl & adapter. Assemble vehicle, no leaks found inside bell housing, but clutch live from master cyl to slave cyl will not seal properly. Install line, bleed system & retest, all pass. 52-3: manual transmission slave cylinder- hydraulic clutch - replace.

As per my vehicle report from the dealership: concern verify cust concern, find that veh spins over but will not start, install ids & performed koeo, all pass. Perfom relative compression test, 80% loss 3,4. Correction: perform manual compression test. Cyl 1-180, 2-175, 3-0, 4-0. Perform leakdown & pressure test, find that intake valves in 3 & 4 are not sealing. Remove valve cover & inspect camshafts, no damage found. Spin vehicle over & verify timing. Find that crank pulley has backet out & vehicle has jumped time. 51-1: remove intake, exhaust manifold, timeing components & cyl head. Inspect and finds that valves in 3,4 have contacted pistons, no damage found on pistons. Install new head gasket, cyl head bolts, 2 new diamond washers, all related gaskets & perform timing procedure. Assemble vehicle, change oil & fill FL. 52-2 koeo, pass. Roer vehicle has dtc po524. Perform pinpoint test, replace vct solenoid, koer all pass. Test drive. Vehicle runs properly at this time. 51-5: cylinder head gasket- leakage (external leaks)- test.