Radio/tape Cd Player Problems of Ford Escape

In April of 2021, my 2014 Ford Escape began to die on take off and my service engine light came on. They removed and replaced the coolant reservoir. I took my car back to the dealer because it continued to run hot. I was told that they found nothing wrong. In October of 2022, the surge valve was replaced. In November of 2022, it was recalled for the shifter cable bushing and a protective cap. That was replaced as well as a valve cover gasket. On August 9, 2024, it was diagnosed has needing a fuel pump because it would die upon take off. My car continued to die upon takeoff. I was told then that it was the fuel injectors and to run premium gas through it and to try using a different key fob because the computer was showing a problem with the ignition. On October 28, 2024, I brought my car to the dealer because it would still die upon take off. It also sounded like it was idling rough. My cd player would accept and eject the cd, but would not play. I asked that the whole car be looked over to see if there was anything else that needed attention. The following was the diagnosis," coolant bypass valve connector burnt and valve also burnt in connection; found the coolant bypass valve is distorted. " they replaced the coolant bypass and coolant bypass valve connector pig tail. The following was also diagnosed, "found the front audio control module has an internal fault; the bottom engine cover damage; found passenger side rear wheel well hanging; removed and replaced spark plugs and coils boots. " I declined service for the cd player, the bottom engine cover and the rear wheel guard due to the cost to repair. The following was also on the invoice, "accessed diagnostic port and performed scan to find trouble code p26b7 which is related to coolant bypass. " my car still dies upon take off. I have faithfully taken care of this car, having oil changes and multi-point inspections done every 3000 to 5000 miles. I cannot afford a new car at this time.

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When the sun/moon roof was opened a metal piece holding it together fell off. It weighs a couple pounds and can come forward and hit someone, driver included. . It was held on by double sided tape. We checked you tube and saw others from 2020 to 2023 are also having this happen it cannot be repaired by the owner. Ford said it can be fixed for $1300-1500.

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My antenna came off. Can't listen to radio. Static.

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Every winter while driving my 2013 Ford Escape info screen displays "hill start assist not available and abs icon flashes. The radio also goes off and on. I have taken it to two different dealerships to get this corrected and I am told they could not see any codes for this problem. In other words I am lying. I am sure by checking with others, I am not the only one with this problem. I hope that this can be resolved because I don't know if and when this will effect anything else.

Ford Escape 2013 was idoling at bank drive threw was in park put in drive roughly less then 10mins idoling push the gas and Ford Escape gallop 3-4 times dies put in park turn key start up throw in drive push gas car feels sluggish still in bank parking lot heading to main busy heavy flow of cars Ford Escape again gallop dies do the same restart back up not an issue car has no momentum trouble shifting gears got to a near by family house to let the car rest since it gave me no indication prior to the malfunctioning 3nd time Ford Escape was idoling at a fast food drive threw there was more then 6 cars ahead of me hot summer afternoon lunch time idoling radio off no a/c running in line longer then. A typical food line wait period the symptoms happened when I reached the order microphone dies then I restarted get to window dies 2 times before I can safely pull away.

Since buying my Escape brand new with 1 mile on it, it has been plagued with issues, engine shuts off while driving can be going 30 mph or 70 mph, while driving on the interstate at 70 bad smell from catalytic converter seeps in through vents. Passenger side tire wall blew while turning out of a parking lot. License plate light out and unable to remove to change. Dealership has had car several times claiming nothing is wrong with it. Radio keeps saying "update" dealership claims it's my phone (my phone has no updates due) brakes make terrible noise when reverse breaking. A little over 11,000 miles and transmission keeps slipping but dealership claims nothing is wrong, also car does not want to start half the time. Usb for phone cord in front does not want to stay connected, and back port for car charger overheated and caused my daughter burns on her hand. My daughter was driving it and it stranded her on side of road and wouldn't start, had to shut off ,take out key and let sit to restart but dealership claims nothing is wrong. Overall the disappointment with the 2019 Escape is high. Something needs to be done further to investigate these claims of engine shutting off and other issues.

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The transmission went out the first few weeks I had the vehicle. Then the rearview camera went out now my radio has gone out the back windshield doesn't work. It has been one thing after another and I haven't had the vehicle a year. Some of the thing happened in motion and in park. Mostly in motion.

Car is completely dead when it rains and it takes several try's and it finally starts. Going down the road all dash lights including radio goes out and the off and on. This happens when it rains. When going down the road the car will shut off and then start back up. Happens on city and hwy. His has been happening for about 4 months now.

I was driving and my back windshield broke loose from the car. I was driving on manchester rd no more than 40 miles an hour. Upon checking ,one of the rear hinges had broke and the windshield was haniging by the other hinge. Fortunately for myself and people behind me on the highway it held on. It is now clear that the other hinge is also rotted and I'm very lucky no one was injured. I was telling my coworker who has the same year,make , and model car about the incident and we decided to go out and look at hers. Her hinges are also rotted and the same thing could have happened to her at any time. We then went on line where we found multiple complaints about this same issue. The following image is of the hinges. A friend came and pushed the windshield back up in place as much as possible because it downpouring into my car. Then we ducktaped it to get me home. I did not want to let it hang again for the photos because I am afraid it will fall of completely. One image is of my car , the other of my coworkers.

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On wed August 22nd, 2018, I was running errands. I left a store, entered my 2013 Ford Escape titanium, and began to slowly back out of my parking space. After backing out of the space, I put the shifter into d and began to try to drive forward, but my vehicle instead continued to roll backwards. I immediately pressed my brake pedal, which stopped it from rolling backwards, and put the shifter into p. Though my vehicle showed that it was in park, it continued to roll backwards if I took my foot off the brake. I was able to reverse my car down the parking lot and back into a parking space at the end of the lot. All the while, my 2013 Escape showed that it was in park. I turned my vehicle off, but had to engage the emergency brake to ensure that it would not continue rolling backwards. When I tried to turn the vehicle back on a minute later, I was not able to push the brake pedal down. It became locked, and I couldn't turn the engine on, shift, or do anything except turn press the ignition button to turn on/off the radio/ac/lights/electrical, etc. (during this whole time, there was never any warning lights lit or any indication at all that a problem was about to occur or currently occuring. ) I had it towed to the nearest Ford dealership, where they confirmed that it was the shifter assembly/cable that broke, which is the exact issue in the recall Ford issued on over 500,000 2013 Ford Escapes in July 2018. However, despite my vehicle having the exact mechanical failure as described in the recall notice, I was told by Ford when I contacted the manufacturer directly, that my vehicle was assembled at a plant that has not been added to the recall. Obviously this issue is more vast and widespread than Ford is willing to admit. Because my Escape is from a factory that hasn't been added to the recall yet, Ford refuses to cover the cost of repairs. This is incredibly frustrating.

2 weeks after I purchased my 2016 Ford Escape, the radio started to turn off and on, then randomly started changing stations on its own. Also, when the bluetooth is in use, after ending a call the screen would freeze. I would then need to turn off the vehicle and take the key out of the ignition to sort of reset but now that doesn't work anymore bc the screen is black and the radio only works. The cameras do not work either.

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I got into the truck and crank it up as I was leaving work one afternoon and when I turned the radio on the display screen for the rear back up camera and radio went out. . Its was flashing white and black and then black with a white line thru it after it kelly flashing turning red green orange with lime just running thru the screen. Then about 10 minutes tops it was gone out. . It only takes me 12 minutes to get home from work and it didn't last that long so took it back to my dealership and they don't know what wrong with it. But I have no radio and no camera. I continued to drive around not knowing what was wrong with the truck and one night it make a spark as I was sitting with it running at a fast food drive thru. The smoke was coming from the front vents so it parked it and called the tow truck. Quick towed it back to the dealer who still couldn't figure out a problem they just disconnected the wiring completely so I'm worse off as far as it goes to figure out the problem . I don't see any fixes for these issues but I've seen lots of the same complaints please help.

Rear end knocking sound after and during backing up, also during low speed. The electronic radio, sync3, audio screen will not turn on in mildly cold temperatures (20f degrees).

I've been having issues with my car stalling out. It began on 11/10/17 when I started the car. I drove about 500 feet pulling up to a stop sign and the car stalled out but all electrical stayed on (I. E. Radio). I turned the car back on and it drove fine for a while. The same thing happened again later on the same day. The following day it happened in the same way as I was pulling out of a parking lot. I turned it back on and it drove well for a while. Later that evening it happened again also pulling out of a parking lot. I did not drive the car again till the following morning. The car drove well for 2 days. Until today 11/15/17. It turned on in the morning. I got to my destination. Parked the car. Came back about a half hour later and I was pulling out of the parking lot only driving about 500 feet when the car stalled out again. I turned the car back on it drove to my next destination about 40 minutes away. It did not feel as if it was running as smoothly as usual. I'm afraid to drive my car as I live in a city and take highways everywhere. I would hate for my car to stall out in the middle of the highway and cause myself and others to get immensely hurt.

Started car and drove to work everything was working normal. Got in car to return home from work on the same day. Started vehicle and my Ford touch screen went black with no warning. Radio stopped working and any sound from bluetooth phone connection not working. Screen is completely black and occasionally "sync" in white letters will appear, but nothing else.

While driving around 40mph, vehicle cut off and displayed a message: transmission not in park. After pulling over and restarting vehicle, the voume on radio moved up and down on its own while transmission in the parked position. Later that day vehicle cut off within 30 seconds of using remote starter. Dealer unable to duplicate problem or find any diagnostic codes.

Was driving vehicle at 35 mph then engine died, service engine now light came on, message center said contact dealer. Restarted after put in park. Checked for codes with generic scan tool, obd2 code p2112 in memory. Contacted dealer purchased from for service. Was told no codes, but battery had been disconnected, clock was reset and all radio presets erased and bluetooth erased.

I was parked in sam's parking lot and I opened my rear window to get my bags out of the back of my SUV. After putting my groceries in my back seat I went to close my rear window but the left hinge broke and I caught the window. I was shocked that the window was in my hand and I began to scream for someone to help me. A gentleman saw what happened and he helped me push the window back up as much as possible and we had to put duct tape on it so I could drive home. To my surprise the hinges that are suppose to hold my window in were completely corroded. I was lucky that I was not driving when this happened because someone could of seriously gotten hurt. Ford has known of these defective hinges for years but continues to put them on their vehicles. To this date there has not been a recall on the hinges and I am contacting your office so you are aware of the dangers this could cause drivers. I have spoken to Ford customer service and they said it is not there problem, but I feel it is their problem. It is not a warranty issue but a factory defect. It is not normal wear and tear on a vehicle. I have never had a problem with a rear window falling out!! I am more than willing to pay for normal wear and tear on my vehicle. I now have to pay for their negligence for my hinges to be fixed. (I attached the bill quote, it is quite high) I hope that the NHTSA recognizes this as a very serious issue of safety not just for the owners with the defective hinges but those who could be in the path of the window falling out while driving behind one of Ford's SUV's. Thank you for you time.

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Driving to work which is about 2 miles from where I am located at. My car suddenly loses power, the radio is still working, a/c is still working as well as the engine but I was not getting no acceleration at all and to top it all off, my steering wheel locked on me and 3 lights on the dashboard illuminated: wrench light, oil and engine light. I got the engine light fixed the other week as well as an oil change several weeks back and the wrench was the first for me. I done some research and I see that I am not the only customer with a Ford Escape with this problem. I called different mechanics, some say its the alternator or it could be the throttle body, but either way I am screwed because Ford charges an arm and a leg to fix the problem, but does not refund you if the problem continues to persist. I called my local Ford dealership in ft. Myers, FL and they told me to make an appointment and pay a $100 for a diagnostic too see what the problem could be, my issue is that I am afraid that I can not even make it to the dealership and I end up in an accident or I pay a $100 for them too tell me that there is nothing wrong with my car(something Ford is known for). I hope something is getting done with this problem, if not Ford is going to lose its customers and if so I am going to switch over to Dodge.

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2013 Ford Escape. Consumer writes in regards to vehicle continuous to have issues related to recall. The consumer stated the radio would shut off and would not turn back on. When it shut off, a 911 error message appeared. The speaker volume would get high and then go low. The consumer also noticed, the engine coolant level dropped below the minimum level on several occasions, which resulted in the engine light illuminating. The dealer found a leak, which was caused by the washer not sealing properly. The consumer stated prior to the recall, there were no issues with coolant loss.

1st occurrence: I was driving at 35mph and suddenly my car surged forward then slowed down to 5mph. I tried to accelerate to a higher mph but it would not let me go any faster. I could steer and the radio was still on. Confused, I coasted off the side of the road, looked at the instrument panel for a light of some kind (none were there). I then turned off the engine and let it sit for approximately 2 minutes then it restarted and I drove home (about 1 1/2 miles) the 2nd occurrence - may 6th. I had just left my doctor's office, within 1 1/2 minutes & driving 15 mph (1/16 of a mile) the failure happened again. I again had to coast to the side of the road apply my hazard lights and turn off the engine for approximately 2 minutes. It re-started and I drove it home (it was intermediately surging forward) about 5 miles. The 3rd occurrence: may 8th on I-70 westbound :speed 60 mph: loss of power, coasted to the berm of the highway, ( thank goodness all the traffic was 1 mile behind me or this could have caused a serious accident) turned it off and waited about 2 minutes and restarted made it to work and home without further stalling but the jerking continued. I called interstate Ford (miamisburg) explained the problems I was experiencing and my fear to drive this vehicle.

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Problems with gas pedal sticking/ locking up. While driving and sometimes when idle dash lights, a/c and radio turn on and off, then there was a clicking sound before the actual engine shuts off.

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On the same day sirius satellite shut down my free radio subscription I lost the ability to dial by voice command from the phone-book and received this verbal error message:"the requested contact is currently unavailable in the phone book". Tried deleting the phone-book , then the phone and device, did a new re-pairing to the same result. Any incoming calls display the proper phone name and I can dial by giving the number, which is difficult when so many of my contacts have three numbers and it is illegal in my province (canada) to hold a cell phone while driving and you must use bluetooth. This inability to dial from the phone-book adds more of a distraction as you have to try to come up with numbers instead of just saying a contact name. A google search turns this up to be a newer, common problem to which nobody has posted a definitive fix. Am going to have to take to the dealer and see if they can fix this issue.

I purchased a 2004 Escape on may 13, 2004 with the standard 3-year/ 36,000 miles coverage. On the June 11, 2006 the cd player started grinding. It gave me a non-descript error message and when I tried to eject the cd it would not comply. I would estimate my mileage at about 42,000 miles. I contacted my local Ford dealer who stated that since my mileage was over 36,000 my car was no longer under warranty and that they could not assist me, unless I chose to purchase a new cd player. It no longer works. I have filed complaints with the bbb and michigan attorney general office to resolve the matter. Similar problems exist in 2005 models and the technical service bulletins indicates to replace it only if the car is under warranty, telling me Ford has a defective part and is hedging its bet that some people won't figure it out before the end of the warranty period.

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Just purchased a 2005 Escape XLT a few weeks ago, and since day 1 the cd system inadvertantely fades in & out to the point where it loses all base and sounds like it's in a tunnel at times. This last for approximately 4-5 minutes and then the normal volume/sound returns, only for it to occur again a few minutes later. Concern here is an electrical problem which could be causing other issues. Have scheduled an appointment for examination.

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The display on my Ford Escape radio has stopped functioning correctly; the radio itself is functioning. After calling several repair shops, the dealer service center, and searching the internet it is very apparent this is a common occurrence in several of the oem radios and the result of a design flaw. Multiple websites and discussion pages refer to this issue as being the result of an overheat condition on the display board due to proximity of the power supply and improper heat dissipation.

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Cds were repeatedly sticking in the 6-disc cd changer; sticking in all six slots. Took vehicle into dealer. A new cd player was ordered and installed.

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While driving at about 40 mph, with both children in the car, my car stalled in a busy intersection. My brakes, steering, accellerator, and electrical(radio and speedometer) went out. I was forced to coast down the street to find somewhere to pull over. I have sent it to the dealership and they acted like it was my fault that it happened and that they hadn't heard of such complaint. I am scared to drive it even after they said it is fixed. I have heard of this happening,after I did some reasearch and people have reported it happening again. I would like some kind of trade or reimbuirsement. My reason being is for the saftey of my children and myself. The car is only 11 months old.

Was traveling 40mph on highway went to change lanes and power steering didn't respond. Dealership was aware of problem. Check engine light illuminated and oil light illuminated, dealer cleaned ground connections under the battery. Sub woofer inoperable, dealer replaced.