Owners/service Manual Problems of Ford F-150

While driving my work truck down the road at highway speeds, the truck suddenly jolted, redlined, and then the little wrench, service light, came on. The lights for what number gear the truck is currently in went out, the the lights for park neutral drive manual 2 1 went out, and the truck was stuck in a gear, maybe 5th gear. When the truck redlined without notice it caused the vehicle to cross the double yellow line. After I stopped and shut the truck off it wouldn't restart. I had to have the truck towed. The pickup is still currently at the garage.

See all problems of the 2013 Ford F-150 🔎.

Sunroof fails to close *doesn't engage in to fully seal/locked position. And re-opens. No possible way to manually close without removing headliner. Vehicle was stationary one returning home and engaging close switch to sunroof. Now security and weather tightness is compromised.

The factory/ dealer installed tow brake controller does not apply enough brake power to stop trailer. When towing my 5th wheel(10000lbs)it works fine when I manually apply the override button but when I apply the brake pedal the trailer brakes don't get the command to engage with enough power to stop trailer, my truck is doing almost all of the braking. I have read online where many Ford f 150 owners are having similar issues. Ford says there is nothing wrong. I have been towing using the manual override switch or learning to slam on the brakes to stop. The trailer brakes do work almost when I slam on the brake pedal. I am sure that this shouldn't be happening because it's not safe.

See all problems of the 2015 Ford F-150 🔎.

The wrench light first came on around 42,000 miles, but would shut off when the vehicle would be turned off. It came on a second and third time around the 50,000 and 51,750 miles. Sometimes it would come back on when driving again and sometimes not. Then the engine light came on at about 52,000 miles. When this came on, it would stay on. The truck would seem to lose a lot of power and the rpm's would begin revving higher while driving. This would be driving on all road conditions, highway or city, up and down hills. We had the truck in to check and the code it provided was �dtc s-p0741 torque convertor clutch solenoid circuit performance stuck off. Will have to replace tcc and if condition still exists, replace the main valve body. � the first Ford dealer (while on vacation) made the repair, but this did not repair the truck. (the wrench light came back on again 131 miles after the repair and the engine light came back on again 40 miles later of the wrench light warning. ) took the truck back to the Ford dealer we purchased the truck at and they are still trying to determine the cause to the issue. The first time the wrench light came on, was under normal driving conditions and not towing a camper. All the remaining times the wrench and engine light came on was while towing a camper. (not sure if this is possible cause of the issue or not, but feel it is worth noting. ) according to the owner's manual, the auto start/stop feature is to automatically disable when a camper is hooked up to the truck. But this never seemed to automatically disable when we were hooked up to the truck. Another issue is when starting the truck up from a cold start it would make a rattling noise. This only happens from cold starts. If the truck had been runner awhile, shut off and then restarted, it did not make the noise. Ford is still trying to determine what could be causing this.

See all problems of the 2016 Ford F-150 🔎.

Computer systems voice control and manual system controls tied to the computer system in sync3 has a 30-60 sec. Response delay requiring eyes to be taken off the road to answer calls, mute sound, use navigation, among other safety features. This has made the entire system unusable and apparently is a common and known issue with this system. The issue occurs all of the time regardless of being stationary or moving, day and night, in city or on highway, and has many times been a hazard while driving. This has occurred starting in June of 2019 and continues to get worse.

See all problems of the 2017 Ford F-150 🔎.

During extreme cold the door latches freeze and can either not be opened or once opened will not latch closed. This has happened twice now. The vehicle had been sitting in the driveway overnight both times. There had not been precipitation for 24 hours prior to either event. After manually positioning the latches they would catch. On the second occasion they opened again. It was both rear doors both times. Both times the ambient temperature was in the teens with windchills below zero.

Outside air temperature was 21 degrees f, couldn't unlock or open doors with key fob or manually. The vehicle had been remotely started and had been running, parked for 10 minutes before I tried to unlock and open the doors. ## VIN passed ## Ford f150 2017 ##.

Parked in a parking lot in a suburban area but in an isolated part of the lot have a super can with suicide doors, was able to get in the back seat and close all doors. Front console was up. There was no exit and I had no communication devise such as a cell phone. After combing the back seat area for about 30 minutes I happened to see the front console lever and was able to get it down and reach front door handle. . It was a 100 degree day and had this not happened at approx 10pm I may have died. I could not reach the manual but there was nothing concerning the doors when I eventually was able to read it. Ford complaint was made November 2,2018, was told to contact dealer service department. Was told there was no recourse and nothing could be done to rectify issue.

See all problems of the 2014 Ford F-150 🔎.

Vehicle lost power and flashed 3 warning messages. 1) hill start assist not available. 2) see manual. 3) service advance trac. In addition the service engine light stays on. All of this happened while I was making a left turn in traffic almost causing a collision. This is the second time it has happened. After first time dealer was contacted and service department reported no problems found. Appointment currently scheduled to look at it again.

Door locks and will not unlock, unlocks on its on at various times stays locked on its own at various times, can not manually unlock.

The car always when starting it the battery light comes out and I have to turn it off manually from the dashboard, also the transmission is hitting when starting up the car only has 120 thousand miles when I start the problem at this time it has 140 thousand miles and the problem continues problem.

See all problems of the 2011 Ford F-150 🔎.

While driving on the highway at 75 mph the truck shuttered violently and the engine shut down. Immediately it flashed a warning that the "hill climb assist" malfunctioned followed immediately by a wrench symbol notifying that service was needed then another warning about the advance trac system then back to the hill climb assist symbol. All of this happening while the car behind me is almost sideways trying to avoid me. I eventually made it to the right shoulder of the highway. As I read the various warnings it said to refer to the owners manual with regards to the hill climb assist. I turned the ignition off, pulled out the owners manual only to find a description of the hill climb assist feature. After waiting for about 5 minutes I decided to turn on the ignition. The truck started without issue and I continued home cautiously in the far right lane.

I have had problems with my transmission. It will slip from 1st to 5th when starting out. It would only work if I put it in manual mode. While in manual modeeverything on my dash went blank and quit working. I had nothing to go by not even my speedometer. Also it slipped from 5th to 1st while driving down the highway causing it to lock up and my wife hit me from behind. I took it to world of Ford in pensacola. They told me about 2 recalls. 16s19,16n02, NHTSA recall 16v248. My truck has been there for over 10days and they said there is no timeframe on when it will be fixed. I have a pregnant wife and a job and now I'm out of my vehicles. The manager at world of Ford frank told me to drive it away from his shop that they weren't going to fix it. I can't drive the truck by it's dangerous. I do have his conversation recorded by he was telling me to drive the truck away after it locked up on me. Now I'm trying other sources to see what I need to do. Anything would help. I can't afford 40$ a day for a rental. Especially since I feel like it's a Ford issue not anything I did. ## VIN passed ## Ford F-150 2011 ##.

Takata recall. . . . Back door latches failed. Cannot open manually.

See all problems of the 2007 Ford F-150 🔎.

Ford is discontinuing the safety feature sync my Ford touch service which was part of the purchase agreement. This is a safety feature of the vehicle providing operator assistance, traffic alerts, turn by turn directions, and other safety related services. They are not offering a replacement or option to upgrade to the new sync 3 service. I am being cheated on what I purchased as described on the window sticker and in the owner's manual.

Driving down the highway, doing about 60 to 65 mph, noticed that I was slowing down slightly, went to give it more gas, looked down at the dashboard and realized that the engine wasn't on (no rpms on tachometer). The screen on the dashboard had a service warning for the parking brake with a lightning bolt idiot light on (not sure what it was, didn't get the chance to look in the manual). I don't know if the power steering/brakes went out, since I was moving fast enough to steer fairly easily, and I'm strong enough to press a brake pedal. After I got it pulled over, I put it in park, tried to start it again, wasn't able to. Called roadside assistance, got a tow truck. Notice the screen that has stuff like clock, temp, date, media info was stuck at the time it shutoff. No other electrical systems seemed to work, I. E. Power windows, emergency flashers, ignition. Was also locked in park, couldn't get it into neutral for the tow truck. After it got onto the tow truck, the exterior lights flashed while driving to the dealership to service it, got to dealer and when it came time to get it off the truck, it started right back up again, didn't appear to have any service messages show up. Brand new truck, about 1100 miles on it, no accidents, no off-roading, haven't even changed the oil yet, haven't touched anything under the hood besides the oil dipstick. At the dealership, nothing seemed to be loose under the hood (electrical wise). Attached is a picture similar to what I saw (again, 65 on the highway, not really an ideal time for documentation).

I own a 2015 f150 with a very frustrating issue. It seems the door locks cease working during cold temperatures. The issue is sporadic, and affects either all doors, or some of the doors when it occurs. The first time I noticed this, was in the morning. To my surprise, my son was able to open my door without unlocking it. I recall locking it and hearing the beep the night before. I asked my son to shut the door, I clicked the lock button twice and heard the honk. I then went to open the door and it opened! my truck had been left unsecured through the night, and many other nights for all I know. I thought this may have been a fluke, so I went about my day, and did not experience this again for about a week. When I experienced this again, I was on a lunch break and I had driven to a local spot where I like to jog. When I do this, I leave my key in the truck and use the keypad feature as to avoid carrying everything with me. I pushed down the locking rod, shut the door and went on my jog. When I returned, I entered in my code, I heard an unlocking noise (turned out to just be my tailgate), but I could not open my door. I tried again, but again was unable to open my door. I tried my other doors, no luck. I was stuck without keys, wallet, phone (in my truck). I had to find a ride home to get my other key to manually unlock the door. I ended up missing the rest of work, even missed an important meeting. This last happened with my son in the back seat, where he was unable to open the door from the inside, and I was unable to open the door from outside, and this simply got my imagination running to the potential safety risk. It is now at a dealer who cannot duplicate, so no fix. This all not to mention the inch of water I had at my feet when it leaked, or the loose part in the driver door knocking around that they "cant" duplicate. Major qc concern.

VIN does not match my truck, trying to fix it but I have no idea what engine parts, electrical,or otherwise to purchase. Supposed to be a 1999 Ford F-150 XLT 4x4 . VIN comes up asinvalid and check digit is incorrect. Online search indicates 4 different engines, two transmissions (5spd manual and auto) neither of which are the Ford motor CO. Experimental transmission that Ford put in that truck. Sold as a 1999 on Ford c. O. Mine weighs 1500lbs less than what it should. All failing experimental parts that I have to replace, but dont have a clue what to buy due to "experimental" part #'s. Emailed Ford many times for assistance in identifying engine as there are no block castings. No retun call or email. Im a single mom of 2. I dont get child support, alimony, nor do I receive goverment assistance. I cant afford to have my truck torn down. To measure bore and stroke. I cant afford to bring it to a shop. Ive had to learn to work on this thing. Took me 8 months and thousands spent here nd there just to get it to pass emissions because I couldnt find the right parts! $600 in inspection sticker violations later here I am, barely hanging in hoping it gets me to work one more time. Suxh a negligent and dangerous thing to do. Three lives sit in that because thats what we have. I wanted a call from Ford because their VIN isnt valid, or matching. Cowards.

See all problems of the 1999 Ford F-150 🔎.

Your web site dose not list a 2013 F-150 when I do a manual search f-250 f350 but no F-150.

2015 Ford F-150 manual on page 263 has instructions for proper setup of an equalizing hitch for towing a trailer. The instructions call for return of the front fender height 25% of the way from height when loaded with trailer to height with no trailer. This is the opposite of recommendations of the hitch manufacturer who recommends front fender height to 75% of the way from loaded to unloaded condition. In the words of the hitch manufacturer "why would you put on an equalizing hitch and not set it up to do what it's intended to do?". The result of the instructions in the Ford manual would be inadequate equalization, and therefore loss of steering with a resulting potential for accident. I think this is just a typo, but have been unable to find anyone at Ford who will listen and find someone technical enough to check it out.

When taking my vehicle out for test drive after putting new brakes on. While driving an spark plug blew out. While checking online I found that this is a major problem. I was very upset to find out from the dealer that it's gonna cost $585. 70 to fix one spark plug and replace coil. I asked about replacing all the plug and they quoted $900 to do all of them. As a retiree of Ford I think this is crazy. They tell you in the manual that the plugs are good for 100,000 miles. The mechanic said there is no guarantee that this won't happen again even if we replaced all the plugs. I'm thinking of trading my truck off and am considering another brand.

See all problems of the 2005 Ford F-150 🔎.

Loss of power/engine misfires during hard acceleration on mid afternoon Friday, June 7, 2013 passing a car at country rd speed or less (was almost at a complete stop while car in front of me turned) in rain. Once I reached destination truck sat until mid day Sunday, June 9 when condition recurred on hill climb acceleration in dry conditions. Engine misfire indicator light came on at that time. After pulling over and shutting truck off to check owners manual, the service engine light came on when I started truck back up and has remained on but the issue hasn't recurred. Appt at Ford dealer for service on Friday, June 14 to check the engine light status and this issue. Engine is 3. 5l v6 ecoboost.

See all problems of the 2012 Ford F-150 🔎.

Accelerating onto freeway vehicle miss fired and started to sputter and shake uncontrollably engine light started flashing, pulled vehicle over turned it off and waited 5 minutes to check manual. Restarted and no problems. Few days later started to pass a vehicle on incline and the vehicle did the exact same thing again. Repeated turn off and rest continued drive no probelms. This is a safety issue while driving due to the massive shaking and lack of vehicle power to move with traffic. Took to dealer and they could replicate incident, however can't seem to diagnose problem. This should be brought to the attention of Ford motor CO. Before someone gets killed in traffic accident due to loss of vehicle power. 3. 5l ecoboost fx4 f150 crewcab.

I think it a crime that Fords put towing weights on their web sites and in booklets and it is false. We bought Ford 150 in March so that we could tow our 32"'travel trailer that weighs 7,000 lbs. All documentation states it can pull 9,000 lbs. We have pulled our unit 3 times and everytime we pray that we make it to our destination and home safely. I would like to know who rates these vehicles towing capacity. Our new truck struggles and sways so bad. We have a sway bar too. I am going to go as far as I can to prevent any other poor sole from experiencing what we are experiencing. As the highway traffic safety I would be concerned about what is towing what out there. We have had no accident or deaths yet but I will be keeping copies of everything I send so if I do die pulling this trailer, I have advised my children to fight for other people. We pay alot of money a month just to tow this trailer and the darn truck won't tow it, but all documentation says it should. Maybe it is just us, but my husband is not a fearful person what so ever and towing this trailer does cause some fear.

See all problems of the 2008 Ford F-150 🔎.

I had a sudden failure of the power brakes on my '05 Ford F-150 due to a vacuum valve that is located on the back side of the motor midway down of the motor on the back side between motor and firewall. This was not a warranty item due to my truck having 50,000 miles on it. The remedy is to get the 30$ valve and remove the top half of the motor just to get to the vacuum valve, due to the labor intensiveness of the job labor is $400. Luckily I did not have an accident but you will only have manual brakes when this vacuum line comes off in addition to a rough running truck.