Engine Clicking And Tapping Noises Problems of Ford Focus

The car isn't drivable. When I start it it makes clicking noise and hard to start. If driving it, it doesn't give any gas or go over 20 miles. It sometimes shut off and sometimes have a hard time driving foward. Codes p0087, p0783, p2872, comes up on a diagnostic. That's driving on a street and can't drive on highway anymore.

See all problems of the 2013 Ford Focus 🔎.

The engine stalls after adding fuel at a gas station, then hesitates to start. Also, the transmission (automatic) slips gears, especially when vehicle has been driven for long period of time. Transmission also makes clicking noises when driving off.

See all problems of the 2018 Ford Focus 🔎.

My car is constantly having electrical issues the radio will cut off in the middle of playing it won't turn back on my car literally hass to be turned off for a certain amount of time before the radio will come back on at all and then it disconnects and makes a loud popping sound like somethings going to catch on fire in the car won't even be on nor will the key be in the ignition I feel that it is very unsafe due to the fact that that kind of annoys is a big distraction and could cause an accident. Also while driving my car has hesitated a number of times while at a stoplight or in the rain or while I'm trying to make a turn or when I'm taking off it doesn't matter it's like it doesn't get enough gas or it has problems switching with the rpms and this is a constant problem this is not just one or two times this is since I have owned this vehicle and it's a little bit ridiculous considering this car has a five star rating definitely not a five star rating car considering how many times I've been stuck out in the middle of traffic and almost gotten into car accidents because of this cari would really like for this to be investigated quickly this is a liability to anyone who owns this year make and model of car.

My car keeps flashing the multiple warning lights. I can't get it diagnosed because it only flickers on for a second before turning off. It's the abs light, the traction control light, the break light and the information light. This only happens while I'm driving, it doesn't matter what speed I'm going. It will also restart the radio. Once I get to my destination, my whole car will turn off as if my battery died. I've taken my battery to be tested and it's fine. When I try to turn on my car, it won't turn on but it will make clicking sounds like it's trying to restart a connection. When my car finally turned on, it said I had transmission issues. This car is terrible, I don't feel safe when I drive it but I still owe money on it and can't afford to pay it off in order to get a new car. I'll never get a car made by Ford again.

I was accelerating from a stop sign when the car didn't want to go forward, the rpms just idled as the engine revved but I couldn't drive forward, then the vehicle lunges forward, as if the transmission was stuck in neutral. After it jumped forward it began making a terrible grinding noise and lost control, almost driving straight into another car. I then proceeded to pull over and turned off the car, then it made these loud clicking noises and the emergency transmission light flashed red and said �transmission overheating, stop and turn off the engine. � I left the car sit for 2 am hour, then went to turn it on and it would not start. It only made the ticking noise again. After trying to start it 3 times, it finally turned on, but continued to get stuck as the car would not move even though it was in drive. The next day I took it to the dealership but as I left my house and got on the freeway, the vehicle started rolling backwards on the inclined on-ramp even though it was in drive. Oncoming traffic swerved around my immobile car as I panicked and floored the gas petal. It finally lunged forward, seconds before a semi came barreling through the lane. I got it to the dealer as it flashed the transmission overheating light. The check engine light was on as well each time. The car had already been serviced 4 times prior to this, for transmission issues and multiple recalls. Each time I took it to get serviced, it got worse. When I finally picked it up, I couldn't even get it home because it broke down half a mile away. The dealerships service department refused to do any repairs to the vehicle even though the transmission failed and nearly killed me. They printed me the papers stating the clutch, actuators a & b, the t/o bearing, and another part need to be replaced and it will cost me $1800. In other words, I have to pay them just so I don't die in Fords faulty car.

See all problems of the 2017 Ford Focus 🔎.

When I hit the brakes the whole car jolts when you go over 40 miles per hour of the steering shakes I've already replaced the safety neutral switch on a transmission now my car will not start it just makes a clicking noise and when it does turn over it immediately stalls out my cigarette lighter also lit a spark in the back of it go off and the brakes sometimes have grate brakes other tines I have to slam the brakes down to get any brakes.

See all problems of the 2000 Ford Focus 🔎.

I've replaced my motor mounts three times within 4 months. My car still is shaking, my heat and air only works on the right side, under my hood sounds like a ticking noise. This is all while parked. Please tell me what I can do.

See all problems of the 2010 Ford Focus 🔎.

Canister purge valve, engine stall recall. I have been having this issue since I recieved the car febuary 2017. The issues was when I would step on the gas to drive, it would stall slowly the speed from its original speed and can feel a pull and push from the car trying to speed up even when I step on the gas pedal; the car moves slow, its like its trying to go up a hill with effort but tireless when its not even going up a hill. Its makes a loud clank noise when it tries to speed up. It doesnt feel smooth when driving. I had call the manufacturer Ford since January 2019. They ask for my date of birth to supposely look for me in the system and make me wait for 12 minutes, then they hang up the call. I made an appointment at Ford January 2019, they canceled it the day before. I recalled Ford July 2019, they hang up on me again.

See all problems of the 2016 Ford Focus 🔎.

Driving and vehicle completely shutdown after a loud crunching noise coming from the front of car. A bunch of codes flashed across the dash . Vehicle wouldn't start. Had to tow it home. The transmission light stays on now when I turn key on.

See all problems of the 2014 Ford Focus 🔎.

Whenever I start my car, the rpm's are between 2-3 and it takes a couple minutes to reach the normal idling rpm rate. The engine also makes clicking noises and is louder than usual and just does not sound right. And previously, my car has randomly stalled and just turned off while the battery stayed running while making a right turn or just idling at a stop light. Mostly, my cars engine just turns off while running it in the driveway in the morning while the battery stays on. It has not stalled in awhile but there is still something wrong with the engine and the rpms. Also sometimes, a wrench light appears on the dashboard when I am experiencing the problem.

Car was driving fine running a few errands. Stopped at a store for about five minutes , when I got back in and started the engine all I heard was a loud clanking noise and the idle was rough. Did a little research about the car and discovered all the complaints about engine failure . So thats what happened to mine . Dropped valve seat.

See all problems of the 2001 Ford Focus 🔎.

I have a check engine light that is on found out its a evap leak gas gauge not working ran out of gas can not put gas on gas tank with a gas can if I try it pours out the bottom when I start vehicle it shudders and wants to die out on me lack of power when I press on the gas pedal and ticking sound in engine also door latch on passenger back door does not unlock unless I push the button unlock 2 or 3 times.

Car sputters, hesitates, makes clinking noises when accelerating. Entire front end including steering wheel shakes and vehicle hestitates when given gas. When stopped car randomly idles without using gas pedal, even completely loses power as if out of gas requiring car to be restarted. Engine also shifts gears late in rpm sequence. I have already paid for out of pocket the issue related to the gas cyclinder which is the open recall and these problems continue to persist. Problem has persisnted every day since date selected whihc is when I purchased vehicle.

See all problems of the 2015 Ford Focus 🔎.

After purchasing this car on 3/7/2017 with 1,909 miles on it. I noticed extensive body damage the next morning which was unbeknownst to me since I purchased it in the evening time. I notified my dealer only to find out that were aware of the pre existing damages! I was then instructed to bring it in for repairs and was even charged for the cost of the rental coverage! my vehicle began giving me transmission problems on 4/19/2017, it hesitates to accelerate while in motion and when it finally gets to the speed I desire it jerks at take off. Also, when I start the engine it makes a loud popping sound from the exhaust pipes, I took it in for service on 4/24/17 and once it was released to me it was making the same noises the very next morning. A service advisor from the dealership explained to me that my vehicle had transmission issues.

We purchased a vehicle on 09/03/2016 from grass valley auto wholesale brokers, grass valley, CA. The vehicle was making a ticking noise and seemed to have a power issue, it kept losing it. The next day I called the lot and told them. They said they had it checked out and not to worry. I did. It kept happening sporadically. I had a 3 month/3k miles warranty. After calling the lot again, I relayed the same symptoms the car was having. I wanted to know did they think if it could be a transmission issue, could be, was the answer I got. . In November I took the vehicle into jr's transmission, came recommended. They serviced the transmission, it was good. It was still happening. Two days ago, coming off a stoplight, I put the gas down and it made a loud knock . I hobbled to the corner, approx 100 yards. It was towed to the auto lot suggested mechanic, who probably worked on the vehicle in the beginning. He told me it needs a new engine. When I called grass valley wholesale auto brokers, the owners son, who is also a salesman there, told me we will work something out. Maybe my dad could take care of half of (referring to the anticipated cost of repairs). Today, the owner would not talk to me, nor answer the phone. I left a message with the owners son. I havent heard back. I sought out help to remedy this issue straight away from the dealer and repair but the dealer brushed me off. That was when my warranty was in effect. Now im two weeks out of warranty. They should had checked the vehicle when I had originally wanted answers about what was causing it. As according to the owner, his mechanic knows his cars inside and out.

The contact owns a 2005 Ford Focus. While stopped at an intersection, the vehicle shut off and lost all power without warning. The contact heard a clicking noise from the steering rack. The contact called roadside assistance; however, the vehicle restarted after the tow truck driver shook the battery a couple of times. The contact drove home. The failure recurred a few days later and the vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic who was unable to diagnose the failure. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure and stated that there was a recall for NHTSA campaign number: 05v030000 (latches/locks/linkages). The manufacturer stated that there was no recall for the failure and referred the contact to NHTSA to file a complaint. The vehicle was not repaired. The failure mileage was 150,000.

See all problems of the 2005 Ford Focus 🔎.

I purchased a 2012 Ford Focus less than a year ago and have had trouble ever since. I have had my car in repaired once for the transmission issues accelerating and coasting. My car is shaking and hesitating with any type of acceleration. The car is making a clunking noise when driving, turning corners and braking. I am beyond disappointed with the quality of the 2012 Focus. I dropped my car off at the dealer and wanted it looked ASAP. I also contacted Ford directly about my concerns, they informed me about the dual clutch transmission as a reason for the drive (an excuse I have heard numerous times from the dealer). After a couple days the service department called to let me know they had looked it over and everything seemed fine. They later test drove it and he informed me that everything looks great and that the way my car is driving is just the way these Focus' drive due to the double clutch transmission. He informed me that it tends to drive the way I was describing if people have a "light foot", if I would drive with a "heavier foot" or "accelerate faster" it most likely wouldn't have these issues. When I brought up the instance where the car shook and made a large clunk when I turned it off, he stated that it was probably a "fluke". It is very discouraging that I am told that this is just how the Focus vehicles are going to be. I emailed Ford about the results and have not heard back. I picked up my car and it still drives jerky and the clunking noise is even louder. I dropped it off with 40,618 miles and picked it up with 40,630 miles. I think it is frustrating that it is deemed as a standard drive with a 12 mile trip. I am disappointed that I am expected to hit the gas harder to hopefully have a somewhat less jerky drive. . . Not sure how to do that in parking lots and neighborhoods. I do not feel that I have a safe quality vehicle and don't know what to do next.

See all problems of the 2012 Ford Focus 🔎.

Car's transmission felt sluggish (hesitate to accelerate) after 15-20 minutes of low-speed driving (0-10mph) in a traffic jam. Ten minutes later, engine stalled on freeway at 70mph. Tachometer dropped to 0 and speedometer displayed was 0. Car restarted, and continued to be driven for 15 minutes. Gear disengaged when turning into a parking space, car rolled backwards. Power did resume after 2 seconds while constantly giving gas. Restarted the car after around 30 minutes, car stalled again few minutes later. Engine would not restart instantly. Only clicking noise was heard in the engine bay when turning keys. Waited 10-15 minutes to restart. Car accelerated to 70mph before stalling again after 1-2 minutes. Gear indicator was flashing. When the car stalled, engine raved with lost of power for 1-2 seconds. Car felt like in neutral even shifter was in drive. Tachometer then dropped to 300rpm and never rav again. Car was pulled over. The cycle of stalling and restart repeated 5-6 times until I arrived home. The next day car was drivable again (I only have a 5-mile commute). Similar troubles occurred three weeks ago when car was totally disabled after 20-30 minutes parking lot driving. Car hardly restart and refuse to go into gear. Gear indicator constantly blinked. I previously thought the issues were related to the usage of s gate, where it happened for two instance. There are 3 occurrences of similar troubles. First time was about a month ago when car refused to start, but it was perfectly drivable again after being cool down for a night. Towed to dealer but problem could not be duplicated. The reason that prompts me to write this report is due the lost of power on freeway which I believe is a safety related issue. Also, there doesn't seem to be a trouble code in the computer, which makes it hard for dealers to diagnose the problem.

I bought this car brand new. I'm a single mom with a tight budget so I was looking for a very dependable car. I started noticing accelleration problems after the first few weeks of buying the car. When I would go drive up the ramp on to the freeway, I wasn't able to speed up with the flow of traffic. This caused extreme saftely issues as drivers would honk and get backed up because I wasn't able to accelerate. I also noticed a clicking sound when within the first few seconds of accelerating after a stop. It sounded like something was loose or broken in the engine. My mom came to visit after 2 months of having the car. She drove the car and said this doesn't seem right, take it in. So I brought it to my Ford dealer. I said this car does not drive safe. I don't feel safe driving with my 5 year old daughter. They said they would fix it at no cost. They had the car for 10 days. Once I got the car back, I still noticed some of the same problems, but the mechanic told me "it will take about 1000 miles more before the engine starts to run normal. " that wasn't very satisfying to hear. Presently, I still have the car. It still has safety issues. I don't drive long distances in it, because I don't feel safe. I am very disappointed with Ford motor company. I've saved up hard earned money to have a dependable/safe car for my daughter and I and I have the exact opposite. I will never purchase a Ford again.

The car makes horrible noises when in low a low speed. It hesitates. It makes horrible crunching noises. It has been to the dealer many times. They always say that they hear it, but that it is not a problem. The vehicle has stopped in the middle of the road. Now, in September 2015, I have received a software update program 15b22 which is extending my warranty. Ford already agreed to extend my warranty in 2013 because of my complaints. However, that documentation does not show up in the Ford oasis system, but mr. Ford's office assures me that if I show them the letter, it will honored. I have all of the back up material from 2013 including phone logs. I believe this is a safety hazard that can only be corrected with replacing the entire transmission at no cost to the customer. I am very afraid the vehicle will stall in the middle of rushing traffic. It has stalled in the middle of the road already. I made mr. Ford's office aware of this, also. I would never pass this car onto my child or a relative, and I will feel guilty when I am able to finally trade it in an buy a new vehicle. The car should not be on the road.

Within a month of purchase, the vehicle has been "shuddering" I have reported this to the dealership every time I sent it in for service and all they tell me is "it is normal, you have to get used to it. Its the new transmission technology of Ford. " I cant believe that after 2yrs and 17k miles on it that it is still exhibiting the same problem and there has been no resolution to it. May I know until when am I going to wait? another problem that just came up- I have witnessed a loud sound coming from the speaker. Seems like a thunder/cracking noise. My husband has heard it twice. It is a very loud sound. It scared me when I heard it the first time.

Vehicle failed to start after completing a 30 minute drive and being turned off for about 5 minutes. Clicking noises like starter failing to engage or low battery ensued. When hood was lifted and battery cover removed and cables and connections were inspected, it was observed that the positive cable off the back of the positive battery harness was exposed, the insulation being almost completely melted. The exposed wires showed signs of fraying and burning. After attempting to jump start the vehicle about 3 times and waiting about 20 minutes, the vehicle started. The vehicle was driven about 20 miles to a service station and inspected by their mechanics. It was decided for safety reasons(fire hazard) to leave vehicle. In 45 years I have never known a battery cable to melt even though I have had bad connections, corroded terminals and harness to the battery and even bad starters. All of the above reasons were the only solutions offered to me.

See all problems of the 2002 Ford Focus 🔎.

It started with a ticking noise I could hear when it just idled, then I got home started it back up and it made a loud noise like something had fallen into the engine. I shut the car off and then we had somebody look at it they said there was no compression in the # 4 piston. They had said something had fallen off the piston and made a bunch of dents and dangs so now we have to replace the engine. It is in my driveway now waiting to be repaired.

The contact owns a 2004 Ford Focus. While starting the vehicle, the contact heard a ticking noise coming from the engine. The spark plugs were replaced to remedy the issue, but the failure remained. The vehicle was taken to the dealer for inspection and they stated that the number four cylinder had no pressure and the piston was destroyed. The contact was informed that the engine would have to be replaced. No repairs have been performed and the contact is waiting for an estimate for the repair cost. The manufacturer stated that the warranty was expired and no compensation would be provided. The failure and current mileages were 120,000.

See all problems of the 2004 Ford Focus 🔎.

The contact owns a 2007 Ford Focus. The contact hears metal grinding from the front driver side when making a left turn. He stated that the brakes have been replaced twice, but are still squeaking. When he releases the clutch and shifts into neutral, he hears a knocking sound. The contact stated that the engine makes a ticking sound as if it will explode. The dealer has been unsuccessful in diagnosing and repairing all of these failures. The repairs usually last approximately 3-4 weeks before the failures recur. The contact requested that the dealer replace his vehicle with a new vehicle. The speed was unknown. The current mileage was 14,701 and failure mileage was 300.

See all problems of the 2007 Ford Focus 🔎.

Caller said that the vehicle started making a clanking noise. The vehicle stalled and would not start. Vehicle was on a road that had no emergency lane to pull over. Vehicle was towed to caller's house, and was still leaking oil. A mechanic said the engine blew out. Manufacturer said there was no recalls, and caller's warranty expired. Dealer said to bring to bring vehicle but she would have to pay for any repairs herself. Caller had a tune up 2 weeks ago.

I had experienced a loss in acceleration and my car stalled. I started the vehicle again, it ran for about one mile and then it stalled again, this time there was a clicking noise from the engine. I could not get it started again and I called for a tow to the dealership. After they ran some tests and took apart the engine, they found that a valve had broken in the cylinder and damaged the piston and the head/head gasket. The car is a 2001 Ford Focus that I had purchased new and I dont understand how this could have happened to the engine since it is less than 3 and â½ years old.

While driving at 35 mph consumer heard a pinging sound coming from the engine compartment. Several moments later consumer heard a loud popping sound and the engine died. Consumer found out that the engine had thrown a rod through the engine block.

I have been hearing funny clunking noises from the motor at highway speeds and more recently the engine cuts out when driving, almost like it slipped out of gear. People have looked at it but they says its fine, its done it 4 times already and its kind of getting old.

Servere bucking/jolting a steady speeds, when a/c is turned on, when slowing down, when stopping, and when shifting gears. Radio turns off by itself, gets loud by itself, and sometimes, you can't turn it off. Popping noises when putting into gear. Grinding noises and knocking noises when driving. Car vibrate uncontrolably at times. When increasing speeds, car wants to stall out and not shift gears. Almost lost control serval times because of jolting problem. Ford doesn't care, doesn't want to fix and has refused to contact us after 2 certified letters were sent.

When accellerating fast either from stop or while shifting into second gear. . . Engine makes a clunking sound. Took it to the dealership and the technician said to be a motor mount. He said it wasnt stiff enough, but that new ones would elicit same occcurrance. Car does not have to be driven hard to get clunking sound. Dissatisfied with reaction and lack of action.

Consumer heard ticking noise in engine area when decelerating engine in park. Nlm.

Engine making ticking sound, dealer did not look into it, just replaced engine, the day I got the car back, it was making a squealing noise, take car back next day, after removing transmission, and leaving me without a car for another day, they realized they forgot to hook up a hose, now car is making a grinding noise only when clutch is not pushed in, noise stops when you push the clutch in, car going back in a few days.