Clutch Pedal/linkage Problems of Nissan Maxima

I bought my 2005 Nissan Maxima in August 8, 2013 used with approx. 63k miles with no warranty. About 3 weeks after I bought the car I was driving in traffic in 90 degree weather, I noticed my clutch pedal would get stuck to the floor. During this time I was unable to change gears at all, I had to pull over & sit for about 20 minutes to get the car moving again. I took it back to the dealer & they "bled the line". They said the fluid in the clutch would get hot & turn into "vapor" which would cause the clutch pedal to get stuck & advised I use dot4 fluid in the future. 5 months later (in the winter) the clutch pedal again started getting stuck to the floor, I was able to "pop" it back with my foot for a short period of time until I got to my destination. I took it to the Nissan dealer, paid $150 to "diagnose" only for someone to tell me they could not replicate the problem & they would have to take apart my transmission (another $650) to look into the problem further. Needless to say, I went somewhere else. I had a mechanic friend look at it who told me to replace the clutch master & slave cylinder, therefore, I did. Solved the issue, until now (5 months later). My clutch has been getting stuck to the floor & loosing pressure occasionally the past month, finally yesterday, it has become un-drivable. I cannot pull it back up enough to shift it into gear. I was told my a mechanic to replace the master cylinder again & hopefully that should solve the problem. I drive everyday in this car with my two small children & have had near misses at times because I cannot get the car into gear. I read online forums regarding the Nissan altima's with the same issue. I am sure after I replace the master cylinder again I will have this issue within months. I have three more years of paying on this piece of junk until I can get rid of it! I need a reliable car, Nissan needs to fix it!.

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Time: 1630 hrs; place: arlington, TX; temp: 90 degrees; traffic stop and go for an hour on highway 121. After continuous depression of the clutch to drive vehicle in traffic at less than 5 mph the clutch resistance fell to nothing and the clutch pedal stayed to the floor. I was able to make my way out of the congested traffic using 5th and 6th gear while trying to avoid all stops. I was able to make it to a convenience store and after 30 minutes there was barely enough clutch pressure to put my vehicle in gear to get back on the highway to drive home. At my exit again I had no clutch pressure and had to pull into another convenience store. I called for a tow truck and after waiting for 20 minutes the was clutch pressure to drive home, only 1 mile away. I cancelled the tow. This morning I now have full pressure and the vehicle drives like normal. I have researched the internet and found other Nissan Maxima's and altima's with the same exact problem. This is not a one vehicle incident!!! there is definitely something wrong with the clutch system in hot weather, stop and go traffic. This situation needs to be looked at.

With my 2004 Nissan Maxima, when the clutch has heavy usage, for example in stop and go traffic, the clutch pedal goes down to the floor and stays there - I have no pressure and I cannot get the clutch in. After I pull to the side of the road, the clutch operation returns to normal after 10-15 minutes. This has occured 6-7 times (my car has 24,000+ miles on it) and from an internet search is being experienced by many frustrated Nissan drivers. Though it occurs intermittently it is often enough to have created several frightening situations for me in traffic, particularly on the highway and late at night. The dealer stated they are aware of the problem but aren't sure of the cause while the most reasonable explanations online point to engine heat affecting the master cylinder when the car is moving slowly. Nissan consumer affairs has been of limited help in helping us resolve this issue.

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Clutch pedal on a 2005 Nissan Maxima goes to the floor. It will return by "popping" the pedal; bouncing it off of my foot. I had the same problem with a 2002 Nissan altima.

After the dealer told me that my manual transmissions needed to be replaced at 60,000, and told me it wasn't under warranty, I went for a second opinion. A local transmission shop told me it wasn't may transmission but rather my clutch pedal bracket and that it was under warranty! I went to a second dealership and had it replaced under warranty. That lasted for about 20-30,000 miles when it started to feel as though I was moving a boulder while depressing my clutch. This past summer, when I was manually pulling the petal back from the floor, I had to replace my fly wheel and clutch because of the wear. My clutch bracket still needs to be replaced again! why is this such a widely known issue with the 2005 mt Maxima and nothing has been done?.

I've had a problem with my 04 Maxima almost from the beginning. Basic symptom has been if the car sits idling in traffic jam, or after a 3-4 stop and go local trips, I develop a lot of play in the clutch pedal. Normally, when I apply light pressure to the clutch pedal, I feel resistance immediately. When its acting up, I feel significantly less resistance in the pedal from the top, sometime almost half way through the pedal travel. If I continue driving it usually clears up on its own or if I park and leave it for 30+ minutes. Definitely seems heat related and does not appear in the winter. Despite the "slop" in the pedal, the clutch appears to be shifting ok and engages about mid pedal travel. Last month new symptom appeared. Twice, once after it was sitting at work all day and another time after returning from a 3 hour concert, the clutch pedal was all the way to the floor. I literally had to stand on it to get car into gear. Once, moving, it returned to normal operation after a couple of miles of driving. Originally took it to the Nissan dealer, but they could never reproduce the symptoms. At 30k, Nissan mechanic said it needed a new clutch without even looking at it. When to local shop. They replaced the master and slave cylinder and equalization valve without any improvement. They have never been able to reproduce the symptoms either. Two weeks ago, at 60k, I had them replace the clutch, pressure plate, throwout bearing and flywheel assembly. The pedal to the floor symptom has not returned (yet) but the clutch pedal problem is still there. Now I have a new problem which only started after they did this latest work. The stick is now popping out of gear which driving. Twice in 6th, but predominately in 5th. I left the car with the mechanic for a day and they could not get it to happen. They checked the linkage and bushings and they say everything looks ok. I went for a drive with them and of course it did not do it, until tonight.

Manual clutch failure. Driving in heavy, slow, traffic or for long distance and many hours of travel would cause the clutch peddle to sink to the floor making shifting nearly impossible. Problem occurred within first year of ownership. Stopping, touring car off and restarting usually fixed problem. Yesterday clutch sunk to floor and stayed there. Dealer examined car a year or more ago, while under warranty and could not find a problem. Now car is undrivable safely.

I have a potentially deadly problem with my 133,000-mile, 1999 Nissan Maxima. It might be related to the crank sensor on newer Maxima, a steering column lock, a faulty ignition switch, faulty clutch depression switch, and the anti-theft kill switch, perhaps even a random ground. The problem was conceivably catastrophic. Upon entering my car using the remote, occasionally the car won't respond, and must be unlocked manually. In these instances, neither the dome lights nor the headlights shine. When the ignition key is rotated to the start position, as the clutch is being depressed, sometimes the gauge lights appear and then quickly fade and disappear; the car just doesn't crank. A faint, diminishing telltale buzzing sound can be heard. What's worse, this can happen spontaneously while driving, in which case the car's steering wheel locks and the brakes become inoperable. I have had this happen on three occasions, twice while driving in a mall parking lot (February and March ã‚07) and the other time (just last week) while turning into my neighbor's driveway, to take out her oak tree. The ignition crank sensor must slip into an inoperable mode during driving or while attempting to start the car, or the anti-theft switch somehow interferes with starting, operation or driving. Maybe the master ignition coil is failing (but that doesn't explain the headlight and dome light problems). The clutch switch may not engage when its pedal is being depressed. Sometimes, I can restart the car after an incident in which it was parked for a while. My battery is brand new, and there don't seem to be any shorts as far as I can tell. But nothing electrically works (not even the radio) when I have to unlock the car manually. I am very concerned about driving the car beyond my neighborhood. I might have to become a hermit, or worse, a college professor. Any ideas? the car is in excellent shape otherwise and has all service records.

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