Door Problems of Toyota Camry - part 2

While driving at approximately 40 mph felt a slight loss of power which was corrected by itself. A minute later, wheels locked up, and vehicle came to a stop. Transmission repair shop informed consumer that transaxle cracked and it broke off where it was attached to the body. Differential unit locking was torn up, and center support was wiped out. Transfer case also broke where it went onto the body. Dealer also stated that there was chunks of metal found from the differential drain plug. Consumer had electrical problems with vehicle including starting problems. Strut failure. Key and lock problems. Windshield wipers faulty. Interior and brake light failure.

See all problems of the 1996 Toyota Camry 🔎.

Door handles on all four doors come up too high. Consumer and his wife had their fingers caught underneath handle. Contacted dealer, and dealer said that was the way vehicle was manufactured.

See all problems of the 2000 Toyota Camry 🔎.

Plastic left front drivers side door handle broke & could not get out of car through door.

See all problems of the 1997 Toyota Camry 🔎.

Driver's outside door handle failed - plastic handle broke - door would not open from outside.

Dealer wants 80$ to tell us if gas tank purge valve is under warrenty or not. Also dealer states that door handle clip breaking is a common problem.

See all problems of the 1998 Toyota Camry 🔎.

Pushed the accelerator, no response from the engine. Engine would spontaneously rev- without accelerator being touched. After a 2 hour rest period the car was again driven the same problem occurred. The rpm would rev without the accelerator being pushed, after about 50 feet the engine check light came on. The gas pedal would sometimes engage the engine so we were able to travel a short distance. It was unpredictable as to when the accelerator would work. It would sometimes kick in while the rpm's were reving and the car would jerk forward. I felt it was unsafe to drive. As we were shutting the car off to load it on the tow truck when thecar was shut off, and the keys were still in the ignition, the automatic door locks repeatedly went off- in a rapid motion about 20 times until the keys were removed. The car has been towed to a local dealer.

See all problems of the 1999 Toyota Camry 🔎.

My tail lights went out and I had them replaced. Less than six moths later they went out again. One of my electric locks no longer works. The door didn't work at all. The dealer fixed it, and then the lock assembly went bad a month later. My license plate light no longer works, it s not the bulb. The shifter light went out at the same time the license plate light went out. My alarm system will not beep to confirm its operating. I was charged to have it reset and it went bad less than six months later. Numerous electrical problems.

Both the left and right rear doors have a gluey sticky substance that is leaking from the door. It is leaking all around the inside frame and has melted the molding on the actual black car molding that is part of the car. If you touch any part of the door or frame, the black substance sticks to you. Local dealer unwilling to fix it. Seems like a defect to me. Has been this way since March 2000.

Passenger door window would occasionally hit the door frame when being closed, causing a violent shake and loud hitting noise. Had to bring to the dealer twice before I could get it fixed.

A clip within the door handle assembly broke, making it impossible for driver and passenger to open doors.

Drivers outside plastic door handle broke, resulting in not being able to open door from outside of car.

Right rear door handle difficult to open. Yh.

Battery was replaced by Toyota (no cost to me ) because it was defective. But the following problem still exists since day one: electric shock when touching door on the way out after turning engine off. When turning engine off.

Electric door locks fail at random. If you enter the car, close the door, and lock the car using the electric door lock on the drivers side, you cannot unlock the car doors unless the key is in the ignition and turned to the "on" position. This is clearly.

When consumer attempts to exit the vehicle, there is a sharp corner of the door that when closing hits and injures her leg.

Interior door handle on drivers side has broke off, making it impossible to rapidly exit the car. Passenger side has cracks and spring has worn through. This car is driven by 48 y/o women (my wife). My concern is that in an accident, there would be no way to get out without jamming a screwdriver in it, or rolling down the window and opening from the outside. The fact that both sides are failing leads me to believe that it is a manufacturing defect. Since the one plastic piece costs $33. 00, I will probably look for one in the junk yard, (which may also have prematurely aged). We live in florida so perhaps the u/v rays contribute to its demise. Nonetheless it is creating an unsafe situation and I couldn't possibly be the only one with this problem. Thank you.

The front headlights do not illuminate road properly. They have been adjusted by the dealer at least four times. The lights still do not illuminate the road properly and are a safety concern. Front suspension shakes aggresively (often at highway speeds) making driving very dangterous. Several attempts to correct by dealer. Problem still occurs. All four tires wore completely out in less than 12,000 miles. Front end pulled strongly to right. Dealer tried to corred several times. Front end now pulls to the left. Rear end "bangs" and "bottoms out" often while at speed. Dealer suggested that this safety concern is "typical" of this car. The transmission has failed to hold car while on an incline at least twice. Was not able to duplicate for dealer. Rear door has never closed properly. Dealer has attampted several reapirs. Door still "creeks and pops" when opened.

When someone gets out of the passenger or driver side front or back of vehicle and locks the door behind them, if anyone is left inside vehicle, he could not get out from the inside, door locks, they would need keys or the transmitter.

Electric locks failed. Yh.

Inside door release failed.

Left side interior panel does not fit tightly. Yh.

Doors will not close completely unless they are slammed shut. Dealer contacted and is aware of the problem, states the design of the vehicle, cannot duplicate the problem. Problem still exists.

Power door locks indicated that it is not locked when infact it is, locking passengers inside. After restarting engine and manipulating lock several times locks will release.

Door will not close.

Door seals failed.

Under carriage of all four doors corroded.

Door panels inside upholstry failed. Yh.

The driver side door has no padding or rubber gasket,as a result forehead of consumer gashed. Yh.

I have called and left messages on the dealers managers phone with no return call, have went to dealership and he is not available. Air conditioner is very smelly, passenger front door hard to open-sometimes doesn't, brakes sound and feels strange to me (mechanic doesn't think so), when key is taken from igintion it is hot, transmission was replaced w/a rebuilt one.

Inside driver's side door will not open . Dealer has been notified.

Both passenger doors have a glue sticky substance that is leaking from the weather stripping inside the door. A dealership looked at it and told me it would cost $60. 00 per door to fix. It seems to me that if this problem has happened often then there sound like a defective problem in the weather stripping or some other component within the door. The problem started occuring around Nov. 1997 almost two years after the car was bought new. Can you help me in this problem? thank you for your time.

Bottom of driver's door is very sharp which caused driver to receive five stitches.

Power door locks fail intermittently.

Power door relay failed.

Air leaks around both front doors.