Vehicle Shudder Problems of Ford Escape - part 1

The contact owns a 2014 Ford Escape. The contact stated while driving 20 mph, the vehicle made a loud grinding sound. The contact pulled over and shut-off the vehicle. The contact stated that the failure recurred a second time after the vehicle was restarted. The vehicle would not restart. No warning lights were illuminated. The vehicle was towed to an independent mechanic where it was diagnosed with metal shavings inside the transmission fluid. The vehicle was not repaired. A local dealer was not contacted. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 102,000.

See all problems of the 2014 Ford Escape 🔎.

When at a complete stop and in either drive or reverse, the engine rpm will drop substantially, the car will shake and shudder and often stall completely. There are no warning lights on the dash and no vehicle diagnostic codes.

See all problems of the 2013 Ford Escape 🔎.

First I notice the car just drop gears and nearly stop on the off ramp of the highway. Second time I tried to reverse and it would not move and I had to call a tow truck to take it to the garage. Ford told me it needed a new transmission. Ford dealership wanted to charge me over $ 5000 for the job. I winded up going to a lee myles that charge cost to $ 4000 for the repairs it had done. Now few months later and the vehicle is shaking upon start up and idiling. Whenever I drive the car it feels like its jerks slightly when going at higher speeds. Changed out the air filter, rebuilt transmission and still having problem after problems with this 2010 Ford Escape.

See all problems of the 2010 Ford Escape 🔎.

Recurrent problems with coolant leaking. Engine replaced once, now leaking again. Recurrent problems with the spark plugs. Check engine light is on, car shakes when driving, unable to drive with air-conditioning on.

See all problems of the 2018 Ford Escape 🔎.

When shifting into reverse the vehicle often shudders or clunks.

See all problems of the 2016 Ford Escape 🔎.

All scheduled maintenance completed for the vehicle on time, and always serviced at a Ford service department. All recalls completed. No accidents with this vehicle. Had issues with vibrations coming from front passenger side of the vehicle causing the entire vehicle to shake. The issue was resolved under warranty by a Ford service department by replacing the half shaft. Three months later, while driving about 30 mph, I recieved an alert on my vehicle saying, "powertrain malfunction / reduced power" and "malfunction indicator lamp - regulatory". There was no warning prior to this incident. The car drove fine, and I did not have any issues. On the way to getting the vehicle to be inspected at the service center, the car would not go over 70 mph and I could could hear the car running very loudly (like a roaring sound). I got off of the highway, and took city roads as a precaution to get to the service center. At every stop light, the vehicle was obnoxiously loud. Once I made it to take vehicle back to the Ford service center, and they are now saying the transmission on the vehicle needs to be replaced. The vehicle is no longer under warranty, and I am expected to pay for repairs. This seems to be a defective transmission, and Ford is not willing to help. The vehicle does not even have 100k miles. My vehicle was not in the vehicles recalled for transmission services.

When at a complete stop, my2014 Ford Escape hesitants to take off, when driving over 45 miles a hr, the car shakes and reduces speed on its own. This is very scary, and I'm afraid this is gonna cause a wreck and even death ,if Ford doesn't recall the 2014 Ford Escapes that are affected with the same transmission issue as the other Escapes, my Escape was built in another Ford plant and different parts, but it's the same problem, that the other Escapes are having . I hope Ford recalls these Escapes, I've been a Ford owner since 1993 , but this is but this got me rethinking my Ford loyalty. The local Ford dealer quoted me $5300 for a new transmission bats half of what the cars worth so please make this right thank you so much for listening.

I've had this car for less than 3 years and have been on time with every single normal upkeep and maintenance service. I bought this car because I thought it would be reliable after I had my daughter. It currently has 86,850 miles on it, and while driving home from work, thankfully on back roads, I felt the car shudder when I tried to accelerate, the gears slipped several times, and the engine would alternate between revving when I was barely touching the gas, to not going anywhere at all when I had the pedal to the floor. I had to have it towed and was told that it had major transmission issues. My mechanic tried a flush, which had it working long enough for me to get 5 miles down the road, where it completely quit accelerating after I stopped at a stop sign. This car is in impeccable shape otherwise, has less than 90k miles on it, and is less than 3 years old. There is absolutely no reason it should be needing a completely new transmission.

Tl- the contact owns a 2007 Ford Escape. The contact stated while his daughter was driving 40 mph, when the vehicle began vibrating and making loud abnormal noises. The contact stated no warning light was illuminated. The driver continue to drive the vehicle to her residence and then was towed to independent mechanic, where he was informed the transmission was needing to be replaced. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired as of yet. A dealer was not contacted. The manufacturer had been informed of failure. The failure mileage was 60,700. Dp.

See all problems of the 2007 Ford Escape 🔎.

While in motion, the vehicle shudders and/stumbles between 1800 and 2000 rpms causing the vehicle to become unstable. The dealership was not able to address any issue. I then contacted 2 other dealerships. I suggested that it may be an issue with the transmission and I was told that they were not looking at any transmission issues. "this came down from management" the service technician shared. My teenage driver is driving the car and I am concerned that an accident is eminent.

Mid-day, 91 degrees. Car shuddered reversing out of the driveway. No previous problems. I waited and car idled well. I left the neighborhood and turned left into traffic on a five-lane road. I lost acceleration merging from the center turning lane. The vehicle revved, getting fuel, but there was no forward movement, no shuddering, nothing. I moved the vehicle into "sport" mode, in case I had bumped the selector, but it made no difference. Traffic honked and swerved around me. I was able to get into the right lane with my hazard lights on. My car shuddered off, completely and I lost power steering just as I completed the maneuver. I restarted my vehicle and the vehicle shuddered to a side-street, where I idled for five minutes and called for assistance. Assistance was going to take a long time and I suffer from a medical condition that makes me fragile in the heat. I tested the vehicle on the side streets and it performed. I was able to get the vehicle home slowly.

My vehicle will be in motion while driving and suddenly have a shifting problem. The vehicle will shake and stutter and looses power no matter how much you press your foot on the gas peddle. My engine light flashed on and off a couple times and then once my vehicle shifted, it would idle rough and act like it was going to die when I would stop at a light. This has been happening for several days now at different speeds on residential streets and the highway. The engine light has not come on since. I took it to have the error code read from the engine light coming on but it was only a generic code. One of the codes was for an airbag sensor. I do not know what is wrong with it.

See all problems of the 2008 Ford Escape 🔎.

I have owned my 2013 Escape for approx. 4. 5 years. I bought it with approx. 40k miles and it is now at 80k. For the last 6 to 9 months it has been acting as though it will stall, the rpms will drop, the car will shudder then recover most of the time. It has actually shut off twice, once in a parking space while idling and the other at a stop light while idling. The places the stall issue seems to occur the most is at stop light, idling in parking spaces, sitting in drive throughs, etc. It has bucked several times while driving but has managed to recover without losing too much speed or without shutting off. I have taken it to several mechanics and dealerships, no one can find the reason for the "stalling". Yesterday, when coming out of work in flat parking lot, instead of stalling the vehicle jerked once when I put it into drive and then there was no power when I pushed the gas to drive forward. The vehicle inched forward but did nothing else. I then put it in reverse and the same thing occurred. I turned off the vehicle, let it sit for about 5 minutes, restarted it and drove it without issue to the dealership. The dealership called me today and said the transmission needs work. I have yet to find out what this "work" entails but from reading all the entries, recalls, and investigations this sounds like the same issues other people are having with their Escapes.

While driving on a city street my car begin to loose pressure and the immediately after the service engine now light came on and my car begin to shake very bad. So I pulled over turned the car off and started it again. The car drove okay and I was able to make it to the repair show but, every time I stopped at the light the vehicle would shake and the light eventually came back on. My car has been in the shop since then and they cannot seem to find out the issue. At first the dealer repair shop said it was my wheel bearing & motor mount, they replaced those and my car still continue to shake when stopping. The shop is currently looking into my transmission as of 3/29/2019.

See all problems of the 2017 Ford Escape 🔎.

The engine will stall while driving. It has been doing it after being off for 0-60 minutes. I won't be able to accelerate and then the car starts shaking and shuts down.

My car will stop while I am driving it. . The engine light goes on the car shakes and the light flash. . . This is dangerous.

Car started and I backed out of my driveway where it then stopped. I coasted to the side of the road and started the car back up, and it started normally. I drove to get my oil changed where they also filled up all my fluids. The next day my car shuddered when it started but still was able to run. 2 days later my car would not start and the low level coolant indicator came on. 30 mins later my car was able to start but my coolant level is low.

Hose clamp rubbed hole in ac line was repaired at dealership and is doing it again. Car is leaking coolant after being tested at dealership car keeps leaking coolant have to keep putting coolant in car every other day no leak is being seem recalls have been done for this issue but my car was not included. I was driving the car then the car started to shake and said low coolant then the car just died in the middle or the road 4 days after getting car tested and coolant added to the car. One of the hose clams rubbed a hole in this ac line than I started having coolant problems replaced ac line at dealership for it to be rubbing hole in line again. Car is currently at dealership again.

I bought the car 09/03/13. On 05/26/16, I was driving home from work & on a parkway as I was accelerating to 45 mph, the engine revved to approximately 6500 rpms without engaging the gear, then shifted. About 15 minutes later, I stopped at a light on a three-lane road (40 mph speed limit). When the light turned green, I pushed the gas pedal and the engine revved but did not engage; I slid backward. I braked to stop from hitting the car behind, let them pass, then turned off the car, as I smelled burning. I turned the car on & pushed the gas pedal until eventually it engaged in first gear & was able to drive enough to get off the road. The car had to be towed to the dealer, where there was a leak found to be due to TSB 3b16-0043. Transmission had to be disassembled, cleaned, and rebuilt due to high amounts of debris. Even after the repair, the car would still shudder intermittently when I shifted from reverse to drive & went to accelerate. On 02/12/18, the transmission failed again while I was in motion at approx. 25 mph in stop & go traffic. I pushed the gas, the transmission didn't respond; the engine just revved. I was still in motion, slowed down, then pushed the gas again & it shuddered then shifted. I pulled over immediately & put the car in park. I tested it by trying to drive forward; the car slid backwards. I didn't push the pedal enough to engage first gear as I didn't want to cause damage. I was again towed to the dealership, and again the transmission needed a teardown, cleaning, & rebuild due to debris. Based on both tickets, I believed the center support is a defective part; I learned today there is a new recall, 18v471000, for a bushing that attaches the transmission shifter cable to the transmission. Unknown if this is the cause. Car is again shuddering when shift r to d then accelerating. I have scheduled an appointment.

2. 0 automatic transmission failed at 78,000. New converter and transmission required. Vehicle would shudder when traveling at 40-60 mph and pulling up a hill.

Vehicle has a power train failure when driving on the highway. At about 70 mph the car will begin to shudder and lose speed rapidly. The problem does not persist immediately thereafter, if we pull off of the highway and shut the car off, wait a few minutes, and start it up again, the power train light is off.

Vehicle steers to right and vibrates. Dealer diagnosed as failure of sub frame and right axle. Vehicle was repaired under recall 14s02 at 89372 mi on 9/23/2014 and had crossbrace installed per recall. Vehicle stored in heated garage, on 7/20/2017 with 105199 mi backing out of parking spot wheel off center and vehicle shaking badly, grinding noise. Flat bed to dealer who diagnosed failed sub frame and broken right axle. Requested Ford repair under original recall which allowed for replacing sub frame and was denied for elapsed time. Safety issue, could have been catastrophic at speed.

See all problems of the 2001 Ford Escape 🔎.

Was driving on interstate without any issues as I was exiting interstate and stationary at red light vehicle begain to shake and vibrate making a grinding nose and vehicle stalled. Restarted vehicle and in motion was fine as I begin to slow down and stop to make left turn on to my road vehicle again begain to shake and vibrate and almost stalled again. Problem as been be diagnosed as bad transmission.

Without warning transmission completely fails. No indication of problems, just dropped the transmission on the way to work. Thank goodness there was no traffic behind us or we were in an intersection. Just completely stopped pulling while traveling down the road at 45 mph. Transmission rebuilt. Since then and still currently the charging light stays on constantly. Has been in the automotive repair shop for a month and no one can find a problem or match the codes with an apparent problem. On it's way to a second shop for another opinion. Idles high both in park and in gear, constant vibration inside the vehicle (steering wheel, dash, console etc. ). Dash/speedometer makes humming noise in the afternoons. Alarm has randomly gone off twice and interior lights would not go out on their own - had to turn off manually. "right rear door ajar" or "lift gate ajar" messages were displayed, but the doors were fine. Message did not reset when re-closing the doors, just reset eventually on its own. Gas mileage has dropped to 15 mpg. Radio volume will not come down. Get louder if you touch it. This problem has been going on awhile, but now with everything else possibly electrically going on, don't know if it's related. We've already spent around $2000. 00 on it and I still don't feel safe to drive it, especially after reviewing all the complaints this model Escape has had. Without diagnosis of a problem, I fear it may escalate to other computer issues and cause far worse driving/safety problems. Undetermined electrical/interior going crazy seems to be a common complaint even when what appears to be the problem is addressed. I am disappointed to be having such problems with this Ford. My husband actually recently purchased a used Acura instead of a Ford because of it. I have no transportation of my own until these safety/reliability issues are resolved.

See all problems of the 2006 Ford Escape 🔎.

Driving car home after work - slowed down and stopped after traffic light change. Pressed on accelerator and car shuddered would not accelerate. The wrench light came on and the car went into limp home mode. Turned into parking lot and shut down and restarted engine. The engine rpm suddenly went to about 7000 rpm with the no push of the accelerator. Engine eventually normalized and I was able to drive it the rest of the way home. My husband test drove the vehicle and the same thing happened to him with the car going non responsive into limp home mode. He troubleshot the issue to the throttle body. After removing the throttle body, cleaning it, and recalibrating , the issue disappeared. He is going to replace the part for safety since this issue happening at highway speed could become dangerous.

See all problems of the 2011 Ford Escape 🔎.

Slowing down in my Ford Escape the transmission intermediately down shifts so hard that it shakes my car and makes a loud noise. Have brought to the dealership 4 times and are not able to duplicate the intermediate problem. First time they reset some sort of chip in the transmission and it helped for only a short while. It does not happen all the time and is intermediate, the dealership does not drive it long enough to duplicate the problem.

Tl-the contact owns a 2013 Ford Escape. The contact stated that while driving at 40 mph, the vehicle began to vibrate. The vehicle was taken to a dealer who diagnosed that the shaft and joint assembly, bushing, seals, right front axle and shaft joint forward needed to be replaced. The vehicle was repaired. In addition, the contact stated that five months later, while driving at 65 mph, the contact noticed strong fuel fumes emitting from inside and outside the vehicle. The vehicle was taken back to the dealer who diagnosed that the fuel lines needed to be replaced. The vehicle was repaired. The contact was aware of NHTSA campaign number: 13v584000 (fuel system, gasoline) however, the VIN was not included. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The failure mileage was 54,000. Oo.

Tl- the contact owns a 2008 Ford Escape. The contact stated that when stopped at a traffic light, the vehicle began shuddering when the accelorator pedal was depressed. The contact stated that the vehicle had also independently reversed. The failure caused the contact to shift the gear into park in order to stop the vehicle. The failure recurred multiple times. The vehicle had not been taken to a mechanic for a diagnosis. The manufacturer had not been notified of the failure and the approximate failure mileage was 97,000. Gb.

I was driving at 40mph on a city street. The vehicle suddenly shuddered and began to slow down. I am now aware to look for a trouble light. The wrench light was illuminated although difficult to see through the glare of the windshield. I was clearly able to see the light. The car slowed to a complete stop. The engine continued to run rough and there was no loss of electrical power. I put the car into park and restarted the car. The car ran without incident until I was able to park at home-about 5 miles away. The car had routine service on 7-16-2014. A throttle body reading was not done, as I requested at time of service, although it was was documented, in writing, that there was a calibration update for my vehicle at this time. A previous incident of complete electrical failure was blamed on a faulty battery in March. I had had absolutely no previous indication "failure" or cranking issues up until the time of electrical power/battery failure. Even the key fob did not work to unlock the doors. The battery was replaced at my expense. Inquiries about the throttle body issue was were also ignored, by the dealer, at that time.

Driving on highway using cruise control setting at 65 mph, when all of sudden vehicle began to slow down and stall on me. I had to pull over on the side of the road because the vehicle was shaking and I could not give it power to stay with traffic speed. I got to the side put the vehicle in park and it still was shaken so I turned it off. I then waited a minute or so and started the vehicle back up even though it was hesitating to start. Once back on I drove with my hazard on at a speed of 50 mph.

I was driving down a very busy 5-lane road when all of a sudden a wrench appeared on my dashboard and my car had absolutely no power in the accelerator. It began idling irrationally and my car was shaking. I had it towed to the Ford dealership to be fixed. It is the throttle body that is malfunctioning, and they guaranteed to me that it would happen again if not fixed. They informed me that there have been many vehicles with this same problem. Someone is going to be killed due to this! I was lucky that no one hit me- I could not even get over to the side of the road- my vehicle just had no power at all. If this happens on a highway, this could be horrific! I am extremely disappointed and upset that a recall has not been issued. There have been thousands of complaints, and nothing has been done. Someone is going to be severely hurt or be killed due to this issue!.

This is my second time that happened to me first was on 11/27/2013 and today 11/28/2013 I was driving on heavy traffic make a stop then I start to accelerating and my car lose the throttle and the wrench light became on the engine start to shake was very scary the traffic behind me almost hit me so I turn off my car and restart again and the problem was over but today the same happened when I trying to enter to the expressway and was very dangerous I have to restart my car again and drive to home I make a research about this problem and I find that this problem is very regular with Ford Escape and some other model from Ford.

See all problems of the 2009 Ford Escape 🔎.

The contact owns a 2011 Ford Escape. The contact stated that while driving 30 mph, the transmission warning light illuminated as the vehicle began to shake. The shut the vehicle off and once restarted, it functioned properly. The vehicle was taken to the dealer for inspection where they stated that the they could not diagnose the cause of the failure. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not notified. The failure mileage was 34,824.

Driving in the center lane of a 3-lane highway I heard a loud "thunk" from the engine compartment & felt the vehicle suddenly slowing down. When I stepped on the accelerator, I felt no response & looked at the dash to see the wrench light on. I looked over to make sure the gear shift was still in drive, thinking maybe it has slipped into neutral. I stepped on the accelerator again - nothing. Vehicle had a strong shaking/vibration I was able to coast to the shoulder out of traffic. I shut the car off & was able to able to restart without the wrench light coming on again. I will be taking the car to Ford dealer to be checked because "stalling" on a major highway is not something I want to experience again. Hope they fix this problem!!!!.

I was driving down I-80 at 65 mph and all of a sudden I had no power with my gas pedal and my engine light (wrench) came on. My car was still running, but when I pressed the gas pedal it did nothing. I pulled off to the side of the road and called for road assistance. Sitting there my rpm's was around 1,000 and my car would shake. While waiting for a tow truck, I shut my car off and then started it again. When I pressed on the gas it started to go again. However, when I tried to get back on the interstate I had no power again and my engine light came back on. I had my car towed to a Ford dealership and they checked it and they said that the throttle body was the problem.