Gas Recirculation Valve (egr Valve) problems of the 2012 Hyundai Sonata

I had a very scary incident Friday night, 12/18/20 about 8:30pm. I was about to merge onto the 5 fwy north to go home, and as I am coming out of the turn, and accelerating to anticipate the flow of traffic, I see a big rig in my rear view mirror in the distance. Naturally, I step on the gas to punch it, to give myself and the rig plenty of distance as to not collide. My car revved up and decelerates to about 2mph . I panicked and managed to coast the car to the shoulder as far right as I could and the rig barrels down past me. I was afraid to completely stop on the shoulder of the fwy, and the car lasted long enough to coast to the next exit. I am able to continue steering my car close to the shoulder at a crawling pace, and turned on my hazard lights. I had people mad behind me, but I could not speed up. I managed to coast to the nearest exit, come down the ramp, and stop briefly with just enough momentum to steer left onto telegraph in commerce, and my car completely dies in the first lane. This is the second time my car just dies on me while I am driving! first time was three years ago in December 2017 . The car had initially died while making a left turn. However, after turning the car off and waiting a few minutes, I was able to turn the car on and drive no more than 30 mph to the same downey Hyundai. The issue was under full warranty and repaired, but now a second time? worse yet, this happened while excelerating onto the freeway. I don't want to drive around in a car that has repeated recalls for various issues. I also don't want to worry of my car dying on me a third time. My Sonata is currently at downey Hyundai and they have started diagnostics and will have a better reading as to what happened. I have lost all confidence in this vehicle and worried for my safety and that of any passengers I may have with me.

Bought this car from a private seller. 2 days later driving 80mph on a 4 lane freeway the car loses all power and stops. I limp car off busy freeway (mind you with an arizona hwy patrol officer in the median didn't ask me if I needed help). Found out that my engine block had metal in that was left in it when the engines were made in alabama. Hyundai knew about this issue and told the NHTSA that they didn't feel it was a safety issue? not a safety issue to lose power at 80mph??? wtf? take it to the dealership jim click Mazda/Hyundai tucson az and they have it back to me in 2 days? a new engine block with all the old parts put on it? wtf??? car is making a noise when I pick it up that it wasn't making before the engine went out. I call the dealership say hey car's making a funny noise when I accelerate kinda like it was before the motor went out. Which by the way was under safety recall. So today I am diving and lose all my ac no ac it's 110 degrees outside I call a friend to look at it he pops the hood and right away notices 2 bolts/brackets that hold the ac high pressure line to the car missing! wait bolts are missing??? yes when the dealership put the car back together they forgot to bolt the thing down?? I tell my service advisor at Hyundai about it and show him when I get the car there. Like ummm hello???? where are these bolts. He downplays it and acts like I am stupid. It's their fault. So then he calls me to tell me the issue is the cooloing fan and resisitor for the engine. The wires are melted!!! wtf again?? like are u serious? I feel like they did a shitty job to begin with putting the new engine block in and probably the same guy who didn't put the bolts in is most likely responsible for the issue with the cooling fan!!!!.

2012 2. 0t limited with 95k. 12-18-18, while driving from austin to houston TX vehicle loses acceleration on the highway. Check engine light comes on, along with the emergency parking brake light (which comes on intermittently and dealership yet to define problem), and abruptly goes from 75 to 0 mph. Vehicle will not respond to any acceleration and I have to find a way from the freeway to feeder without power. Inoperable. Limped three miles with police escort. Car towed. Dealership cannot duplicate issue. I make them keep vehicle to investigate. They get a code error and change out the ecm for a mere $1400. Meanwhile, I must find transportation in a city I do not live and rent a car for a week. Retrieved vehicle. 2 weeks later, traveling to houston on 12-26, check engine light comes on, car will not accelerate; spitting, feels like no gas getting to engine, heavy smoke from tailpipe. Christmas eve, no place to stop. Barely make it to houston. Inoperable. Car goes to another dealership in houston. Again, without transportation in a city I do not live in. Faulty high pressure fuel pump. Carbon buildup. Another $1100. Prior to that, March 2017, engine failure travelling to houston. Knocking noise. Wont go. Inoperable (luckily, this one I made it to a full stop). Car towed. Waited three months for a new engine (not in my hometown). Had to travel to pick up vehicle. (car had been inspected by hometown dealership specifically for metal debris and it did not get flagged for replacement). Directly after that, while driving in austin. Vehicle stops in major intersection. Inoperable. Towed. Degraded battery cable because the vehicle sat for three months while waiting for an engine. The only warranty was the engine. Can you say lemon? the only saving grace is that myself and my family were not seriously injured when our vehicle became inoperable while driving on a highway.

During cold weather, the 2. 0 turbo Sonata engine will cut power to the car and go into a "limp" mode if an over boost code (usually p0605 & p2110 ), is triggered. This causes an unsafe situation as there is very little power available to get out of the way or can cause a rear vehicle crash. There have been a couple times where this has happened on 0 degree days or even at 30 degrees. This will happen at any speed if the boost pressure is exceeded and makes for a very dangerous situation. The ecu should not be cutting power or fuel, it should be reducing the boost to compensate for temperature. The only way to restore the power to the engine, is to shut the car off and restart. . . . . Codes will still be active but the power will restore itself.