Engine And Engine Cooling Problems of Mazda MAZDA6 - part 2

I have a 2017 Mazda 6 that has an extremely loud engine. I have taken it in and I’m told the car is fine but I can feel the engine knocking through the pedal as I drive. The sound has gotten louder over time and it’s not getting any better. I’ve had some belts change and keep up my regular maintenance and Mazda can’t seem to figure out what the issue is. I have friends with the same model and their engine sounds normal.

See all problems of the 2017 Mazda MAZDA6 🔎.

Excessive oil consumption. Recently purchased new vehicle with 0 miles. Oil low level warning light on at 3500 miles. Manually checked oil level. Added one quart. Online research indicates problem is created by faulty valve guide seals which allows oil into the engine combustion chamber and exhaust. Vehicle will be taken to dealership for inspection.

See all problems of the 2021 Mazda MAZDA6 🔎.

The low oil pressure light had turned on shortly after my first oil change (roughly at around 6k miles). I had the service done at a trusted service shop back in April 2021. I wrote it off mentally thinking that it was just a one off thing and that the shop may have made a mistake and underfilled the engine because of unclear specifications between the Mazda6 turbo version vs other models within the same lineup. I measured the oil and confirmed it was low and topped it off with over a half quart of oil and never bothered with it again. Six months later I return to the same shop for an oil change at 11k miles. I had no issues up until the 17k miles month mark when I am about to schedule the oil service the low oil pressure light turns on once again. I top it off and go online to see similar experiences with the same issue experienced by other drivers.

Low engine oil light came on at around 13,700. Last oil change was at 10,000 miles. Checked oil dipstick, oil level slightly below first marker hole.

Took care for routine maintenance to car dealer (ourisman Mazda rockville MD). No problems with car. They reported that I had an 'coolant leak at the cylinder head'. Cost to fix: $6412. 47 they reported that it was 'normal wear and tear'. I found a service bulletin from Mazda whereby they admit a manufacturing defect that affected 2. 5t engines. They corrected on March 25th, 2021. However, engines prior to this date had this defect. No recalls were created. No warning to owners. My car was within the mileage warranty when they identified the defect (<60k miles and < 5 yrs old). While my car is less than 5 years old, they now identified the leak, but it has over 60k miles. The local dealer said I was out of warranty and there is nothing they could do. I spoke with Mazda north american operation and reported the technical service bulletin that they put out on 10/15/21 (after they had already identified the problem, re-engineered the engine, and changed the manufacturing line), I also explained what was reported to me by ourisman Mazda and emailed her all the documents. She reported that she would be getting back to me in 24-48 hrs.

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The issue I am experiencing is one that many are in regards to the oil consumption. My check oil light came on prematurely in regards to the recommended scheduling for these sorts of vehicles, at around 3500 miles approximately. This is a vehicle that experienced this issue under 10k miles.

Low oil light comes on. Using excessive oil between oil changes.

The contact owns a 2016 Mazda Mazda6. The contact stated while driving approximately 65 mph, the vehicle lost motive power. The contact pulled over but was unable to restart the vehicle. The vehicle was towed to an independent mechanic to be diagnosed. The contact was informed that the engine needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was informed of the failure and informed the contact that the vehicle was not under warranty. The failure mileage was approximately 80,000.

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I been having problems with oil consumption in between oil changes,I am concerned with the potential for damage to other engine systems aside from the reported issue with the gasket stem seals. I been taking my car to the dealership and I been told they don’t have a solution and they don’t know how to fix it. This is a new car!!!.

Hello I am a 2nd owner of a Mazda 2007 6. And the man I brought car from said it always did it to him as well. I would explain it as in stopping or speeding up the dashboard lights flicker or goes off, the engine gets real loud and car jerks and shakes and loses power check engine light comes on and at. And cars dyes in reverse a few times on me. Auto lots said that it is common and known for electrical problems and engine issues and pieces called camshafts position actuator and transmission range sensor and gears. And the man owned before me has replaced them multiple times. Its dangerous to be driving specially on interstate and car stalls or lose so much power that I only get about 20 miles an hour.

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After driving when I got to put the vehicle into park- I place it in park but it gives me a error saying not in park.

See all problems of the 2014 Mazda MAZDA6 🔎.

I took my car in for scheduled maintenance and the technicians at the Mazda dealer found out the tensioner and belt needed to be replaced, when the car is less than 36k in miles. Vehicles being repaired under warranty but a tensioner should not be going out this early in the lifespan of a 2 year old car. I have found a lot of people are complaining for the same issue. This can cause the cars to not run as there’s no notice ahead of time that the belt and tensioner are bad. I do have paper work stating tensioner problems. Vehicles should be recalled due to poor manufacturing and parts making it unsafe on the road.

Pcm issue, passenger air bag issue, OCS wiring issue. Infotainment system, transmission, and engine. Key fobs not able to be reprogrammed due to pcm issue.

I bought this car for 3,000 from the owner had it for 2 months, got oil and all fluids changed. When I was leaving my house a block away it totally died on me and now it wont start at all. I am very frustrated because I dont have the money to buy abother one. Or even repair it.

See all problems of the 2004 Mazda MAZDA6 🔎.

My Mazda6 spontaneously caught on fire while it was parked on a street and completely burned down. The fault/problem cause is unknown at this time but I suspect there was wiring/electrical fault and manufacturing and design defect. Both the sheriff's department and fire department were involved in assisting me in this incident. I am still waiting for reports from law enforcement/first responders. Mazda has refused to address this situation without me providing them with an "inspection report supporting the claim a defect was present and said defect caused the fire. " as I was only a lessee of the vehicle, I have no possession of the vehicle and, therefore, I cannot order an inspection on the vehicle. Mazda is acting in bad-faith.

The contact owns a 2006 Mazda Mazda6. The contact stated when the vehicle was started, the engine made a loud ticking noise. The contact stated that once the vehicle had warmed up, the would drive normal; however, while driving 30 mph, the check engine warning light illuminated and the vehicle stalled. The contact had taken the vehicle to an independent mechanic who diagnosed that the variable valve timing actuator (vvta) was not functioning as needed causing the engine stall and loud ticking sound. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer had not been informed of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 123,000.

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Tl- the contact owns a 2014 Mazda Mazda6. The contact stated that when depressing the push to start button to turn off the vehicle, the engine turns off but the electrical features would continue to operate independently and intermittently. The contact stated that an orange light on the push start button alerted him that the vehicle was in accessory mode. The contact stated that in order to fully turn off the vehicle, the contact would turn restart the vehicle, place the vehicle into drive, engage the emergency brake, place the vehicle back into park and then the vehicle will shut off. The contact also stated that this method does not always work and that he would try multiple attempts for the vehicle to shut off. The contact associated NHTSA id number: 10160553 with his failure. The dealer nor the manufacturer have been notified regarding the failure. The vehicle had not been repaired. The failure mileage was 106,000. Jo.

Vehixle has open recall #3719f. Took vehicle in for service on July 15 and according to NHTSA recall has even out since June 27. 2019. To this day I have not gotten any letter or anything stating car has open recall when the car can turn of randomly. Will be taking car in on 08/26/19 but I'm concerned as to why this has not been addressed in any letters or emails.

Ignition does not turn off when pressing start / stop button - please see attached Mazda invoice.

Mazda 2007 Mazda 6 with severe corrosion to engine subframe posing a very serious safety concern if breaks while driving. Current Mazda 6 in question had less than 100k miles and was spotted by an oil change technician. I've asked a couple mechanics and was informed the car would be a possible death trap to myself or others if not fixed quickly. All parties are amazed at amount of corrosion, internet searches suggest this is a very common problem and already a recall in place for other year Mazda 6's.

My wife was driving on the interstate at 70 mph when all of the sudden the car veered to the right causing her to go into the right lane as she was in the left lane. Thankfully no one was beside her and she was able to keep the car under control. She stopped and called me as I was at work to explain what had happened. She was just a few miles away from the exit in which we live just off the interstate so she was able to limp the car home. Later that evening when I went to look at it I noticed immediately that the passenger tire was pointing outward a little bit. I jacked the car up looking to see if a tie rod or control arm had broke only to find that neither had broke. I looked at the frame and seen how badly it was rusted and noticed it actually had broken apart and was shifted. This area of the subframe is directly under the a/c unit which drips straight down onto the frame area that is rotted. Which is obviously the reason the the frame rusted and broke and shifted causing the tire to point outward. Called Mazda and they sent a tow truck to retrieve the car. Currently waiting on their inspection and a call from Mazda corp to see if they will be covering the repair. After reading everyone else's issues with this very same problem I'm assuming Mazda will tell me it's our problem. The car is only 8 years old and I've seen other's who's car are even newer and Mazda is telling everyone it's not defective. I strongly disagree with it not being a manufactured defect when clearing the water from the a/c dripping down is causing all these subframes to rust much faster than any other part of the frame. We'll see what they say but I'm not holding my breath. . . . Seems as though we the people need to band together in a class action against Mazda because this clearly is a problem for a lot of consumers. Pray no one ever gets killed do to loss of control when the frames do brk.

See all problems of the 2010 Mazda MAZDA6 🔎.

Engine cradle/crossmember is severely deteriorated on the passenger side. Excessive rust and holes in the structure. My concern is a safety issue in driving the car and having it stay together.

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My son was driving my car to get food when the car lost control of steering and veered right towards the curb. His steering was straight but car was difficult to control. Thankfully he was only going 25 mph. We took it to auto shop and was told engine cradle/subframe had rusted throughout. Very expensive repair. We also own a second 09 Mazda 6 that we now worry about and will get looked at.

Tl the contact owns a 2009 Mazda 6. While driving 45 mph, the engine cradle fractured and there was a loss of steering function directly afterwards. A dealer was not made aware of the failure. The vehicle was towed to an independent mechanic where it was confirmed that the engine cradle had fractured. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 110,000.

Vehicle push to start fails when shutting off car. The car's not reading that it is in park. Engine will shut off but all vehicle electronics will stay on and car can still be shifed out of gear. Dealership replaced gear selector switch which they said had a faulty spring.

I went for an oil change and found out that the frame that holds the engine in place was completely rotted out and that my engine could fall out at any given time. Also, because of the rot, the rod that should be attached to the steering was not attached because the bolts had nothing to adhere to. This could have resulted in me driving with my daughter and losing my steering and possibly getting in a fatal accident. The car is in the shop as it is not able to be driven per my mechanic for safety reasons as well as failing inspection fro this. Please contact me as soon as possible as I do not have any transportation and I work full time. I can be reached at 508-530-8247. Or my mechanic at hometowne auto, john or mark, 508-238-2900.

2003 Mazda6 model cars were built with faulty throttle bodies. Unaware of this, I bought one of these vehicles and immediately began experiencing issues with it. When driving very slowly, under 15 mph, the car will suddenly throttle, accelerating it in bursts even when applying the brakes. That issue is problematic but relatively minor; however, there is a much more dangerous issue the faulty throttle body creates. When driving at any speed, the faulty throttle body can cause the engine to cut out without warning. My wife was driving with our kids in the car the first time we had the engine cut out while driving (soon after purchasing the car). Luckily, she was driving in a residential area at 25 mph. The engine has cut out on me while driving 65 mph on the freeway. I was forced to coast through freeway traffic to the shoulder in order to stop the car and restart the engine. The engine has cut out, without warning, at several speeds. There is no rhyme to when it will cut out and no indication it's going to cut out ahead of time. I spent over $500 trying to solve the problem with mechanics unsure what was wrong. Then a mechanic happened to have an old service bulletin (sb), dated 5/18/2006, from Mazda that stated throttle bodies with the markings aa, ab, or ba at the end of their serial numbers (as is the case with the one in my car) are "no good". Because the part is labeled "no good" under Mazda letterhead, I figured there must have been a recall issued before I owned the car that the previous owner somehow missed. I took the car in to a Mazda dealership where I was assured no recall has ever been issued on the part and in order to replace it, the cost will be over $1,000. A recall must be made on this extremely dangerous and faulty, by Mazda's own admission, part before unsuspecting people are injured or killed, if that hasn't happened already.

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Engine cradle subframe rusting/rusted out prematurely. Holds engine in place. Stationary.

Nothing has happened yet. There are two recalls but no one has contacted me about them.

The contact owns a 2005 Mazda 6. The contact stated that the check engine warning indicator illuminated. The contact stated that the failure did not occur until it was repaired per NHTSA campaign number: 15v382000 (air bags). The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic who diagnosed that the dealer had reset the sensor and the check engine indicator was turned off. The manufacturer was not notified. The failure mileage was approximately 119,141.

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The car has very serious issues with the transmission. When driving it jerks violently when switching gears from 2nd to 3rd gear and some times to the 4th gear. The dashboard some times shows the car has switched to the 3rd gear while the car is still revving abnormally high in 2nd gear. The transmission has some very serious and potentially deadly issues. This issues tend to occur frequently when accelerating from a stop. (the car's acceleration is very weak, I don't know if this is related to the issue or not ).

On Nov 27 16 the following safety issue occurred to my auto. While driving about 20-25 mph in slow traffic my vehicle threw itself out of gear, the engine raced, after a couple of seconds it violently went back in gear. Prior to this happening the transmission had locked up twice and the auto could not be moved. By turning the ignition on and off that lock-up was freed. During this same driving period the following malfunction lights illuminated intermittently; engine light, low tire pressure, air bag, traction control (repeatedly). The autos engine was missing intermittently running rough. Operating conditions: ambient temp: 78f, no wind, dry roadway, no precipitation. I contacted manufacturers Mazda assist, they requested towing, auto is now at the dealer in (wallace) in stuart, florida, I informed Mazda assist that I considered the car unsafe to drive, as I am handicapped and the holiday traffic was totally jammed I was force to drive slowly home on the 20 mph fla turnpike. .

See all problems of the 2015 Mazda MAZDA6 🔎.

The contact owns a 2006 Mazda 6. While driving 40 mph, the vehicle began to decelerate independently and the check engine indicator illuminated on the instrument panel. While depressing the accelerator pedal, the vehicle would not respond. The vehicle was not diagnosed nor repaired. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was unknown.

I bought a used car with 2 dashboard light tmps & engine the dealer give me extra warranty but never been repair furthermore I find out by myself a recall for the outer door handles after the door open while I driving in the express way this happened to my youngest daughter; and in other 2 incidents the car do not respond with the appropriate speed causing me a big chance of accident afterwards it is happened again so due to to other several mechanic problems and for security I have to decided to return the car now I have no money no car and a big problem I am having hardly time tried to summit my concerns because I think the dealers are responsible for sale security cars before the sale but apparently the laws are in the dealers side as a consumer I hope maybe some one can see how this irresponsible dealers play with the consumers safety. I pay over $3,000 in repairs by my self and I have been around 90 days with out car and all this problems in a period of time of 26 months plus my payments to the dealer that was $460,00 a month this issue start on 12-6-13 to 02-26-16 after the car need a new repair at cost of $3,000 so in the reality this company was negligent when they fail to properly repair the car since the beginning they just pretend to fixed but wasn't . I want to thank you for your time.

The contact owns a 2004 Mazda 6. While driving at an unknown speed, the contact smelled a burning odor and noticed white smoke coming from the hood of the vehicle and inside the vehicle. The contact turned off the engine and the smoke disappeared. The vehicle was towed to a dealer where it was diagnosed that the engine burned out and needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The VIN and failure mileage were unknown.