Steering Idler Arm problem is a common vehicle problem that happens to most car brands and models. The following is a sample list of Steering Idler Arm problems reported in most popular vehicles.
The car was a 2007 Chevrolet Trailblazer. Vehicle identification number (VIN) of the vehicle is 1GNDT13S37_. At 45,000 miles I have had to have the tierods replaced and there is still something wrong with the passenger side wheel assembly, but they can't seem to figure out what the squeak is. It could be a bearing I have been told, but they don't know without tearing it all down. 2nd is the power window on the drivers side is getting slower to come up and I can smell wires burning at times (although I am not sure if the 2 are related) I have also had to replace the "idler pulley" at 42,000 miles. . . . . This seems ridiculous as it keeps turning out to be one thing after another?????. This issue happened on Wednesday, August 18, 2010.
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The car involved is a 2005 Chevrolet C/k 2500. The steering was causing us problems. We took the truck to our local auto repair shop and they informed us it is the idler arm. After researching this topic it seems this has been a problem reported before. It also occurred on my uncle's 2005 Chevrolet truck. However, despite these reports there has not been a recall. Please notify me regarding the complaint. Thanks,
rhonda phillips
craigandrhondaphillips@gmail. Com. This steering idler arm problem happened on Mon., Jul. 9, 2012.
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The car is a 2000 Chrysler town and country. The VIN of this Town & Country is 1C4GP64L0Y_. While my wife was pulling into a driveway she drove thru a small puddle and the water splashed up on the idler pulley and caused the belt to slip. This in turn caused the vehicle to lose power steering. She ended up in the yard instead of the driveway. I have been in quality since 1985 and I am currently a quality manager so I am really surprised with Chryslers' lack of concern with this design problem. I am really dissapointed with Chrysler and the NHTSA for not doing something about this issue. Maybe it is time to let some of the national investagative tv shows know about the problem. This steering idler arm problem happened on Tuesday, July 23, 2013.
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The vehicle's vehicle identification number (VIN) was 1C4GP54R1X_. I own a 1999 Chrysler Town & Country van. Major problem is serpentine belt coming off and causing a loss of steering. Every time it rains my serpentine belt comes off which causes extremely hard steering. I have replaced tensioners twice in the and belt 4 times. Thank god I was not on the free way or a street with alot of
traffic or this could kill me or an other person. I have looked on the internet and this has happened to 100s of people. On the internet it state that the factory recommended repair ( the replacement of the idler pulley
and the pulleys retaining bracket. ) in the TSB I read, Chrysler's engineers have decided that on some models the idler pulley is misaligned by . 08 inches. Chrysler should recall this and fix there problem before someone gets killed. Get involved and make Chrysler fix this problem. This steering idler arm problem happened on 01/20/2012.
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The vehicle was a 2003 Dodge Ram Van. For 2 days prior to incident , noticed steering wheel kept changing orientation while driving in a straight line. A lot of groaning and creaking noise from right front suspension in right turns as well as vibration at highway speed. Parked vehicle and inspected underside to find that idler arm bracket was tearing away from frame rail due to rot. After parking vehicle , I moved it around in the driveway no more than 3 times before idler arm bracket completely separated from the frame rail with a very loud pop. . Van now has no steering and is junk sitting in my driveway. Inspection of front frame rail area reveals heavy rot on both front frame rails and steering gear mount as well. The rest of the body is typical for 10 yrs old in upstate NY. I have previously owned vehicles 20+ yrs old with body rot , but have never had any frame issues associated with rot. After much research , this appears to be quite common on full size Dodge vans. Will be filing a complaint with Chrysler corp. , but don't expect much to come of it. Absolutely amazed that people have not died as a result of this defect. Considering the number of these vans still on the road , I would consider this a growing concern for those that own and drive them as well as other people on the road with them. It was 11/20/13 when this steering idler arm issue happened.
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The car is a 2003 Dodge Dakota. The VIN of this vehicle is 1D7HL48N74_. I have purchased several tires for this vehicle, and the problem is mainly in the the front. I have had it aligned as required and it continued to eat the tires in a very few months. I recently (withing the last 6 - 8 months) had the brakes, rotors, idler arm, bushings and other items replaced that dealt with the steering and the braking of this vehicle and it is doing the same thing again. When turning left or right, it will pop, and when pressing on the brakes it will grab, release then grab again. The brakes are not making a noise and I know when new brakes are installed that they have to allowed to maintain their fit, however, once they maintain their fit, they shouldn't start grabbing. When I have to press the brakes in a hurry the abs light comes on and it concerns me the vehicle will not stop in time. This has been a problem for the last 4 or 5 years. This steering idler arm problem happened on July 23, 2012.
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The vehicle involved was a 2007 Ford Fusion. The idler pulley bolt broke off and pulled the belt off (the belt did not break) making me lose power steering, and of course the battery would not hold a charge. This happend June 8, 2013, June 23, 2013 and again on September 11, 2013. Ford is telling me that there is no problem but the dealer that fixed my car the 1st two times now has it again and has a call into Ford to see what the problem could be that it has happend to me 3 times in the past 2 1/2 months. All 3 times I was driving when it happened. The second 2 times it happened I heard a pop almost like I ran something over and immediatley lost power steering. It almost has me afraid to put my kids in my car. Unfortunately I only have one car and can't afford a new one. This steering idler arm problem happened on Saturday, June 8, 2013.
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The car involved was a 2005 Ford Taurus. The car would speed up by itself from fault of throttle control assembly, alternator had to be replaced, windshield wiper hose assembly, the ac compressor had to be completely replaced, accumulator or receiver drier had to be replaced, as well as replacement of the compressor drive belt, evaporator orifice belt, serpentine belt tensioner, idler pulley, belt tensioner, on another recent occasion, the Ford was idling high and when driving, would speed up to around 4000 to 4500 rpms, on its own replacement of gasket all spark plugs, valve assembly, and another kit 11794 to counter the revving engine and throttle. . Also the power steering was off in the car,and it could not maintain an alignment, as you drove the steering wheel would jerk and shake. Odd noises emanating from the left and right rear of the car resembling a wheel bearing also will probably result in further repairs. The work was done at mileage 85462. Today it is 102k and the Ford keeps up with its seeming reputation of being "found on road dead". . . Or "fix or repair daily". Today completed by a Ford dealer and a military shop, the torque converter is broken. The car will start and rev, but when placed in drive or reverse it will not engage and remains in place. This steering idler arm problem happened on February 2, 2012.
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The car was a 2002 GMC Yukon. The VIN of the car is 1GKEC13Z12_. Wandering on road excessive noise from tires wearing on inside. Cupping of tires caused by worn idler and pitman arms at 42000 miles. It was 06/16/05 when this steering idler arm issue happened.
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Vehicle identification number (VIN): 1GKEC13R1X_. Consumer owns a 1999 GMC Yukon. On April 20, 2009, the vehicle would not accelerate past 20 mph. There had been no prior failures with the transmission since purchasing the vehicle used in January of 2009. In addition, there were alignment issues that caused the tires to explode, tie rod failure, brake failure, and the fuel gauge displays the incorrect amount of fuel in the vehicle. The failure mileage was 100,000. Updated 5/27/09
the upper and lower ball joints, lower ball joints, idler arm, steering gear, rack and pinion were all replaced. Updated 06/02/09. The failure date was March 20, 2009.
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The car involved was a 1997 Honda Civic. Honda guilty of breach of warranty and ignoring recall issue. Paint repair done 4 times including 1 out of pocket expense while under warranty defective paint problems. Sunvisor intermittently comes out when driving which suddenly is a hindrance in driving. Horrible rust problems that will cause defects in equipment. Cruise control failed under warranty Honda did not repair although they claimed they would initially.
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The car was a 2007 Hyundai Entourage. Vehicle identification number (VIN): KNDMC23357_. My 2007 Entourage limited has several quality deficiency issues and recurring maintenance issues. The rear sliding doors (both) have been worked on several times, yet they continue to malfunction, I. E come undone/re-open, not fully latch, and consistently beep as a notice of failure. This is where my babies sit, both of them. The dvd screen has been replaced because it quit functioning properly. The van shimmies or rattles at speed around 70 mph. It causes the center console to shake vigorously. The wheels were balanced on a special wheel balancer but this only reduced the problem. The tire pressure monitoring system has had malfunctions multiple times. There is a whine from the steering column when the wheel is turned, the alternator is creating a whine over the stereo system intermittently(really annoying), the side mirrors have both had problems with the reverse/angle function where the mirrors' motor fails to return the mirror to its user preset setting when transmission is placed out of reverse(drivers side) or fails to tilt the specified degree in reverse(passenger side). The roof leaked when the van was completely shut and had to be resealed by a specialist to correct an existing deficiency, the seal around the glass for the sunroof is degrading and cracking. The sliding rear door on the drivers side has a crimped window channel seal. This shop also stated that they "had not seen one of these [entourage] vans with so many problems". The door handles and rear high mount stop light had to be replaced due to the packing/shipping poly wrap ruining the chrome and plastic lens. The gasket for the high mount stop light had to be replaced later due to workmanship or material quality. The windshield cracked/failed (1/2" chunk of the windshield) when my wife adjusted the rear view mirror. The idler pulley has been replaced because the bearing failed. Stripping around the sliding doors are fading already and yellowing. More not enough space. This issue happened on Mar. 16, 2008.
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My 1997 Infiniti Qx4 started to have a side to side wobble. It got worse over time. Now I can barely drive on the freeway. At speeds of about 50-65 it wobbles to the point that it is very dangerous. I bought an Infiniti for the safety and I do not feel safe in it anymore. I have replaced shocks, tires, have done tire balancing, wheel alignment. None have done anything to remotely fix the problem. I can not afford to fix this problem. A recall is needed for the pathfinder and Qx4. This issue happened on Wednesday, February 1, 2006.
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The vehicle identification number (VIN) of this Jeep Liberty is 1J4GL48K15_. My 2005 Jeep Liberty has a recall for safety Chrysler safety recall f23- and we only found out by accident, in speaking to many other people who have the same type of vechile and same year none of these people ever received any notice from
daimler Chrysler- when we found out about this recall - 60 days ago we called the dealer and I also contracted daimler Chrysler - I was told that the dealers only get about 3 fix kits per week- and we are now number 96 on a wait list. Nhts needs to lite a fire under daimler Chrysler to get more fix kits out
and to make them notify owner and we are the orginal ower of any further recalls. It was Oct. 8, 2006 when this steering idler arm issue occurred.
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Vehicle identification number (VIN) of the vehicle is 1J4GK48K12_. My girlfriend and I own a 2002 Jeep Liberty which we recently took to the dealer for a ball joint recall. When we took the vehicle to the dealer I asked the service manager if the car wouldl be re-alligned and he said that will be $100 extra. I can't understand how Chrysler corp. Can let a customer walk into a dealer with a perfectly alligned vehicle and leave with a car that is totally out of allignment. How is this fixing a "safety" problem that Chrysler created? how can Chrysler put safety in the wallets of it's customers?? we ended up taking the vehicle down the street to our local mechanic that did the allignment for $50. I contacted Chrysler re-call dept and they denied my $50 re-embursement. Should I get a lawyer involved in this matter? I am just looking to make an SUV safe for all in the future. There are so many case out there of SUV's flipping over due to bad tires, defective front end parts etc. . What should I do? any advise would be greatly appreciated. Sincerely
robert watson. This problem occurred on Fri., Jun. 11, 2004.
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The vehicle is a 2002 Lincoln Town Car. The vehicle's vehicle identification number (VIN) was 1LNHM82WX2_. Purchased new 2002 Lincoln towncar April 2002 from central florida Lincoln Mercury in orlando florida. Car is garaged all the time and now has 3000 miles on it. The chassis and various steel support and steering parts have severe and I mean severe rust. The dealer says it is more than they have seen but there is no problem. I have never seen rust as bad as this and I have seen a lot of cars in my life time as a mechanic. The rust looks like the car was in road salt for many years even though the car has not and only 8 months old. Ts. This issue happened on Sun., Dec. 1, 2002.
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The car was a 1999 Lincoln Town Car. The vehicle's vehicle identification number (VIN) is 1LNHM82W7X_. The consumer's vehicle has required multiple repairs to include ball joint replacement, turned rotors and idler arm replacement. The vehicle only has 70000 miles. The cruise would not shut off without a near skid amount of braking, this would also occur because the shifter would not come out of the park position. This steering idler arm issue occurred 09/01/2004.
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The car involved was a 2001 Mazda Tribute. Vehicle identification number (VIN): 4F2CU08191_. This type of failure could very easily lead to a crash, thankfully it did not in this instance. However, my wife is somewhat anxious behind the wheel after this incident. The dealer did adjust the idler and replaced a control module, but they also acknowledged that this problem is apparently somewhat of a mystery for the manufacturer. Please notify me if there is a recall or definite fix found for this problem. This steering idler arm issue occurred January 5, 2002.
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The vehicle involved was a 2003 Mercedes Benz Sl500. I was driving on the freeway when the idler pulley simply fell off the front of the engine. Obviously, the belt came off too. The vehicle was hard to control since the power steering stopped working. Additionally, breaking effort increased, stability control malfunctioned, and a few other non-essential systems became inoperable. It was Saturday, March 24, 2012 when this steering idler arm issue occurred.
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The car was a 2002 Mercedes Benz Slk. On may 13, 2005, I purchased a used car from DC motors of anaheim hills, CA. The car came from walter mercedes riverside, CA. The car was not reconditioned before selling. The company intentionally defraud me since I have a paperwork from the dealership that the car has been throroughly check from bumper to bumper. Todate, my car has been in the shop for a totalled of 12 days, 4 various visits. The following were the problems: missing grill, shaking in the steering, car needs new tires and fron wheel alignment, humming noise, hot air coming out of the pedal, incorrect tires specification currently installed, the retractable hardtop stop functioning. I had to pay $302. 00 for the missing and neither DC motors and walters takes responsibility to take care of the problem. This problem occurred on May. 13, 2005.
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The vehicle was a 1995 Mercury Grand Marquis. Took car in for squeaking noise under car; discovered it was u-joint seal going dry. However, upon inspection technician discovered four dangerously worn ball joints, both upper and lower ball joints on both sides, and dangerously worn idler arm. This was confirmed visually by myself. Upper left ball joint was in the best condition, all others were missing jackets, had no lubrication, and worn to the level that very little force was needed to remove the ball from the socket after removal, one came out with no force. The idler arm was barely connected, and over 75% of metal at the link worn and rusted. Nothing in the car's driving behavior gave any indication that any of these parts were worn. Steering had only slight amount of play which was still present after the parts were replaced and the car aligned. Left upper ball joint had been replaced one year and 3 months previous to discovery. No other signs of wear were present at that time. The previous ball joint replaced was least worn, but jacket was torn and no lubrication present. With one exception, the ball joints appeared to have only gravity as the primary force holding the balls in the sockets. My concern for other drivers is related to the lack of indications that the front end of this car had degraded to this level. The vehicle's steering responses were asymptomatic, period. This had not been my experience in the past. Possible causes for asymptomatic behavior is unknown (weight of vehicle and gravity?) the earlier problem (1yr 3mo. Earlier) with the left top ball joint failure was only discovered after it failed after hitting small pot hole coming from parking lot and the wheel broke and layed in flat on the road. Speed was under 5mph. It was Apr. 25, 2014 when this steering idler arm issue occurred.
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The vehicle involved is a 2006 Mercury Milan. My power steering failed as I was pulling out of a parking space. I heard a faint noise like a marble dropping onto a surface and rolling as I started the car. I quickly realized I was not able to steer the car. I had the car towed to my mechanic. He informed me that the bolt on the idler pulley broke, and part of this bolt fell into the engine. When I asked him how this could happen, he informed me that he believed it was due to the faulty design - placing too much pressure on this bolt, causing it to eventually break in two. They had to take the alternator off to recover the piece of the bolt that fell into the engine. The idler pulley was then replaced. I believe that if this had happened while I was driving, especially at a high speed, it would have caused a very serious if not fatal accident. This problem occurred on Sat., Jul. 28, 2012.
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I believe the outer tie rods on 2008-2012 Mitsubishi Lancer (all models) are defective. I had the pass side fail at 20k miles. , which was replaced by dealer. It took over a year of diagnosis, increased noises, and eventual unsafe handling before the second one- drivers side was diagnosed and replaced, this time by an independent shop. I had to personally pay to have the second one replaced because the dealer was unable or unwilling to reproduce and replace after numerous inquiries. I have video of the ball joint upon removal from the idler arm, and the joint is absolutely destroyed. Surprisingly, it does not exhibit much play when mounted, and the ball joint rubber looks ok. It would be very easy for a cursory inspection to come up with nothing, even when the joint is dangerously near failing. Not only do I believe that the part is prone to failure, but I dont think it is safe even when new. I noticed the vehicle had unusual steering since I bought it, that caused it to dog track and drift in and out of lane. I tried a variety of ways to improve, including new tires, sold by dealer, passenger side tie rod replaced. None addressed the steering issues, until I replaced with aftermarket moog outer tie rods after finding the drivers side tie rod defective. I have also inquired with other owners, since I am a member of a Lancer forum. Many also seem to have the same problems. Either they have had them replaced under warranty, or the dealer was unable to identify. It is possible that many of these vehicles are on the road today with tie rods that are damaged or destroyed. Considering that the failure of these parts eventually leads to dramatic understeer, and sliding out of the front end, while stability control doesn't engage, this situation could easily cause an accident. Please contact me if you need a video of the defective part in question. Thanks. This steering idler arm problem happened on Jan. 5, 2011.
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The vehicle involved was a 1999 Mitsubishi Galant. I have had problem after problem. . . Had rotors replaced 3 mos after purchase, complained of violent shaking numerous times. I was told this was b/c I had "after factory" wheels that were too big for my car. I learned to live with it. The next thing to occur was a loud noise while driving coming from front end wheels. In June of 2001, I had an a/c idler pulley replaced for $150. As soon as I drove away, the noise presented again. I finally gave up on sitting at the dlrshp for 3 hrs w/a 3 yr old, so I've learned to live with it. . . Yet again. The noise still persists as of 2/02. In may of 2001, I began experiencing electrical problems. To date I've had all recalls svcd. Upon the start of my car, the sunroof, lights, anything power, radio, etc. , were not in function. I noticed this the first time after pulling away. Numerous times thereafter (2x in rain) I started to pull out and turn on my w/shld wipers to realize nothing worked. My temp. Fix was to shut off the car and restart again. . . Praying. As of late. . . I have had my e brake light luminated for about 2 months, for no reason. My oil lamp light would come on here and there. When starting my car now, sometimes my radio will be "on" but, won't start working and will eventually come in from the back spkrs up to the front. The other temp fix I've found when things aren't working, is to turn the key slightly back toward me and it turns things on. On top of all this. . . My black weather stripping on top of my car has flown off (clips broke) this happened the first cold w/end of Dec 2001. W/in 2 days, both flew off while I was on the hwy. I had to pull off to removed the remainder. And getting to the last but not least stuff. . . One day last week, my locks would not stayed in the locked position. I would lock all, reverse, turn, do anything and they would unlock themselves, miraculously, the next day it stopped. As of last night, my door ajar lamp is on and remains on & my dome lights -will not shut off. This steering idler arm problem happened on May 26, 2001.
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The vehicle involved is a 2005 Nissan Quest. The vehicle identification number (VIN) is 5N1BV28U25_. Third time front left steering stop goes bad. The steering stop was replaced twice in last than a year. This steering idler arm issue occurred 03/10/08.
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The vehicle having this issue was a 1997 Nissan Pathfinder. The rear idler arm has failed.
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The car was a 1996 Saturn Sl2. When driving and using the cruise control, car accelerates, this is the second car . Please describe .
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The car is a 1996 Saturn Sl2. When driving with the cruise control on the car accelerates . Please describe.
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I was driving my 07 Subaru Tribeca on a busy city street, at about 35 miles per hour, when multiple red lights came up and I could not turn the steering wheel. It was not locked, but it required significant effort to move it even a few inched to the left or right. It was extreemely stressful to be stuck in the middle of a busy avenue without any control over your vechicle. The repair shop came up with the following list of broken parts: belt tensioner, idler pulley, 2 bolts and an ac bracket. The total bill for the parts and labor was $780. I have been driving my car on highways and city streets only, never took it off the road. The car is only 5 years old with 58k miles on it. I don't understand how such an extensive damage to the car parts could happen other then that it is faulty. Is Subaru considering a recall for the above mentioned parts? thank you. It was 01/02/2013 when this steering idler arm issue happened.
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The vehicle is a 2000 Subaru Outback. The vehicle identification number (VIN) of this Subaru Outback is 4S3BH686XY_. The rear left trailing arm broke in half. Dealer notified. Part replaced by rossyln auto express shop. The cost of repairs were over $400. 00. Subaru did not reimburse consumer. This steering idler arm issue occurred Mar. 24, 2003.
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The vehicle having this issue was a 1998 Suzuki Sidekick Sport. Vehicle identification number (VIN): JS3TE21V0W_. Idler pulley was replaced. This issue happened on Monday, Jan. 4, 1999.
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The vehicle involved was a 2004 Toyota Tundra. Jan 6 2007 while driving on paved city street, I heard a load bang and the drivers front end dropped to ground, steering failed and tire slid under truck and explode after grinding along asphalt on tourqouise st pacific beach san diego CA 92109,4;30pm dry conditions. No injuries, I stomped on brakes and stopped in street. Asked Toyota dealer if any recalls on following mon answer no!, car repaired at $3700. 00 costs with rental cost plus loss of use. This steering idler arm problem happened on Saturday, Jan. 6, 2007.
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The vehicle involved is a 2002 Toyota Sienna. The VIN of the car is 4T3ZF19C72_. Problems:
1: the starting idle will not keep car on if temperature is below 60 and I had to pay $200, just to have Toyota clean it, but they would not replace it. Even after it been cleaned the problem still happens randomly. 2: tire pressure gauge sensor has always been on even after its been reset two different times. 3: randomly the front wheels will vibrate then stop after about 15 miles. I've replaced with new tires and had brakes done twice but problems still persists. It was Jan. 8, 2003 when this steering idler arm issue happened.
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The car was a 1997 Audi A4. Vehicle identification number (VIN): WAUCB88DXV_. Two steering control arms have failed. This issue happened on Tuesday, May 1, 2001.
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The vehicle identification number (VIN) of the car was 5UXZW0C53B_. The reporting person's vehicle is a 2011 BMW X5. The contact stated that the steering wheel would sporadically become difficult to turn. Additionally, there was an electrical failure within the instrument panel. The failure was recurring. The check engine warning light was also illuminated whenever the contact reversed from his driveway. The contact also stated that the vehicle could not be shifted from park to reverse or drive. The vehicle was towed twice to an authorized dealer, who diagnosed that the idle pulley bolt needed to be replaced. The vehicle was repaired however, the failure recurred twice. The authorized dealer replaced the idler pulley belt a third time and the vehicle was repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 30,000. It was Dec. 31, 2013 when this steering idler arm issue occurred.
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The vehicle having this issue was a 2010 BMW X5. I was driving my X5, 90 minutes from home, when I noticed my steering was unusually stiff. It was 5 degrees outside, so I assumed it might have been too cold. I was able to move over to the right lane, and turn onto the nearest side street. At that point I got a code saying "battery discharge". I assumed it had something to do with the keyless ignition, so I shut it off and tried to turn it back on. It didn't work, and it gave me the same warning again. In addition, the onboard system was giving messages of each of the systems that was shutting down, ultimately, with everything shutting off, including the emergency lights. I had to have the car towed. After the dealership looked at the car the next day, they told me this was part of a recall for the idler pulley bolt. I looked this up, and discovered the letter dated Nov. 26th describing this recall from BMW to NHTSA. We started the purchasing process of this vehicle on Nov. 26th, ultimately purchasing it on Nov. 30th. The carfax did not show this recall repair when we purchased it. My dealership is claiming they repaired it that week, before we picked it up, (again, no mention of a repair). My concern is this: if it was repaired in November, this repair failed. If they ignored this recall and sold me the car, that would be negligent. Furthermore, we had the car into the dealership in January 2013 for a tire issue. If they had not done the repair in November, certainly they were responsible to repair it then. Obviously they didn't. Now, the car completely fails, and is in the shop. This repair took 3 days! I am unsure of the safely, as well as this failure being just a pulley bolt. I am aware of the most recent recall of Feb. 19th, for electrical problems, but at this time, doesn't include the X5? the pulley bolt problem doesn't seem to fully describe the loss of steering and power I experienced. This issue happened on 02/19/13.
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Vehicle identification number (VIN) of the vehicle is 2G4WS52M5X_. Front right wheels of Buick Century make a clunking noise when making right turn. Had front strut e3850 also 22064745 w-strut & 908554 bearing replaced under warranty. Noise again developed shortly after. I notified Buick in their service questionaire that noise was back and I was not satisfied . Regan Buick service states they will have to charge me to fix it again as warranty is up. Service station says same problem in other cars of same make and model and is a defect. It was April 4, 2002 when this steering idler arm issue happened.
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The vehicle involved is a 1997 Cadillac Catera. While driving 65 mph idler pulley tensioner broke, causing loss of control. Dealer contacted. The failure date was 11/21/2001.
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The car is a 1996 Cadillac Deville. The vehicle's vehicle identification number (VIN) is 1G6KD52Y3T_. Metal casting on idler is broken and does not remain positioned on main drive belt, which causes vehicle to become very difficult to steer. Consumer stated the casting where the bolt was attached cracked, and the bolt pulled off from the block, amking the vehicle inoperative. This steering idler arm issue occurred January 13, 2002.
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