Car Will Not Accelerate problem is a common vehicle problem that happens to most car brands and models. The following is a sample list of Car Will Not Accelerate problems reported in most popular vehicles.
Tl - consumer has a 2011 Chevrolet Malibu. The contact stated she had driven to work, and on her lunch break she was not able to start her vehicle. The contact mentioned while she was driving 30-45 mph on the freeway the vehicle decelerated and stalled. The contact was able to restart the vehicle but it wouldn't accelerate over 20 mph. The contact stated warning lights was flashing and the contact was locked in the car. The vehicle was towed to the dealer. The diagnosis was the electrical fuel pump was defective. The vehicle was repaired. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was 54,000, and the current mileage was 58,800. Bt. This car will not accelerate issue occurred Wed., Apr. 9, 2014.
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The vehicle having this issue was a 2004 Chevrolet Trailblazer. While driving the vehicle it began to smoke. The car wouldn't accelerate so I stopped the car shut it off, popped the hood, and it was engulfed in flames. I grabbed my 2 children out of the car and called 9-1-1 the car was a total loss!. This car will not accelerate problem happened on Tuesday, Apr. 8, 2014.
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The car is a 2007 Chrysler Sebring. I was driving the vehicle on the highway. The etc light came on and the car would not accelerate. Coasted to the side of the road, turned car off, then back on and it ran fine. It has done this at least 30 times since. Now my etc light blinks and car will only go 10-20 mph, slows to 5mph going up any grade. Idle is rough and idles between 1500 and 2000. Sometimes when I first start the car it will run okay for about 2-3 minutes then etc light suddenly come on, car decelerates and I have almost been hit several times. Now the brake light comes on and off as does the check engine light. The dealer does not know what is wrong. This seems to be a common problem with this model vehicle. Chrysler needs to do something before someone is seriously injured or killed. I will never buy another Chrysler product because they will not fix this problem, always say they do not know what the problem is. This car will not accelerate issue occurred Sat., Apr. 27, 2013.
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The vehicle's vehicle identification number (VIN) is 1C3LC46K57_. 2007 Chrysler Sebring electronic throttle control light comes on and car cannot accelerate stalls almost to
almost to a complete stop. . . Only turning off the car resets this light for who knows how long it just happens and is very dangerous. . . This problem needs to be addressed before somebody gets seriously hurt. . . This problem occurred on Monday, March 2, 2009.
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The vehicle involved is a 2008 Dodge Caliber. Car was already warmed and driven for about 5 miles, after stopping at a gas station to refuel and re-starting, it was idling very inconsistently and running rough, shaking. There was a dash indicator for electronic throttle control flashing. I tried driving it and there was jerking and pulling and the transmission wouldn't shift past 2nd, car would not accelerate beyond 12-15 mph. I made it home (about 2 miles) and left the car for about 6 hours. Upon restarting and warming, the car drove fine. About 1 1/2 weeks later, the same dash light came on, steady not flashing, car rumbled, then light went off and the car was fine. This happened on and off for about 2 weeks. Then, when ready to leave from work one day, I started the car to warm it and the indicator light came on and stayed on, the car was running very rough, idle was fluctuating between about 500-1500 rpms and shaking. I left the car, assuming when I came back the next day it would start and be fine just like the 2 times before, but that was not the case. I drove the car to a nearby mechanic, maxing out at about 15 mph, strangely the car seemed to pick up speed when I eased off the accelerator, and steady loss of speed while going up hill. The mechanic could not fix or even diagnose the problem, said it has to go to the dealer. It seems to be something to do with the throttle control. I will update it once I hear from the dealer later today. The failure date was 01/07/14.
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The car is a 2011 Dodge Charger. While turning left to cross multiple lanes on the highway, I accelerated to go and the car began coasting. I pressed on the gas and nothing! I put it in neutral, heard it rev and put it into drive. . Still nothing! the car would not accelerate. With on coming traffic and cars swerving to keep from plowing into me, I quickly put the car in park, shut it off, tried to re-started it (x3)and put it in drive. I was finally able to get it to go. The next day, my car was hard to start (x3). After warming up for approximately 10 mins, I left for work. Low & behold, the same exact thing happened at the same exact spot except this time my car shut off during the turn. Once again, with oncoming traffic and speeding cars dodging my stopped vehicle, I immediately threw it into park, tried to restart it x2, then put it in drive and was able to get out of the way of the tractor trailer who was not going to be able to stop! on the way to the dealership, it happened twice to my husband but the dealership says "there is no code, it hasn't happened to us and thus no problem" I can assure you, as a deputy sheriff, this problem isn't just dangerous, it's deadly!. This car will not accelerate issue occurred Thursday, January 19, 2012.
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The vehicle involved is a 2011 Ford Edge. During driving, the engine stopped and car would not accelerate, there was a complete loss of power. There was no warning, and the "yellow wrench" light came on, and car would not go. This was in the middle of the road and could not get off of the road. It happened so quickly, there was no time to react to try to pull over. Lost steering and couldnt move anywhere. Waited for 1 min or so, and restarted car. The failure date was May 13, 2014.
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The vehicle involved was a 2009 Ford F-150. Vehicle identification number (VIN): 1FTPW14V79_. Approaching an yellow light at approximately 35 mph I hit the gas pedal hard for passing gear. The accelerator stuck, the engine roaring, I had to step as hard as possible to stop the truck so I would not hit the vehicle in front of me. Engine would not stop accelerating forcing me to turn off the truck. Shocked, I sat in traffic for a moment before I restarted the engine, but it immediately went to full speed again, forcing me to again turn off the engine. My friend climbed out and pushed me out of traffic. After sitting in a parking lot for about 5 minutes I again started the engine and it started normally. The failure date was Apr. 12, 2014.
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The vehicle's vehicle identification number (VIN) was 1GKEC13R1X_. The vehicle involved is a 1999 GMC Yukon. On April 20, 2009, the vehicle would not accelerate past 20 mph. There had been no prior failures with the transmission since purchasing the vehicle used in January of 2009. In addition, there were alignment issues that caused the tires to explode, tie rod failure, brake failure, and the fuel gauge displays the incorrect amount of fuel in the vehicle. The failure mileage was 100,000. Updated 5/27/09
the upper and lower ball joints, lower ball joints, idler arm, steering gear, rack and pinion were all replaced. Updated 06/02/09. This car will not accelerate issue occurred Friday, Mar. 20, 2009.
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The car involved was a 1998 GMC Jimmy. The VIN of the car is 1GKDT13W2W_. Ignition switch: gauges went to zero, all idiot lights came on, car would not accelerate pulling into traffic on busy highway, narrowly escaped accident when gauges came back on, idiot lights went out, and engine accelerated normally. Did this again in our driveway twice the next week. Took to dealer, mack brown inc. , in boone, nc, not the selling dealer, car was under warranty at the time. They kept it several days and called to say it was fixed. When went to pick up vehicle, I asked what they had replaced, and they admitted they had done nothing, and said the diagnosis computer showed so many potential problems they didn't know what to replace first. I told them to keep it until it was fixed, that I wasn't putting my kids in it until it was fixed, and got in my older and higher mileage mercedes which has never had a single problem, and left. They kept it a couple more days and decided to replace the ignition switch, which they said had caused similar symptoms in many full size gm pickups they had seen, but they had never seen a Jimmy with the problem. They said the ignition switch in both models was the same part, though. The car has never had the problem since. Unrelated brake problem, brake pedal would suddenly be hard, as if with no power assist. Back to mack brown, inc. , who diagnosed it as a clogged pcv valve. Problem has not recurred. Also, for a year the emergency brake will not hold the vehicle on even the slightest incline, despite mack brown, inc. And two independent garages adjusting it on three different occasions. The failure date was Fri., Dec. 15, 2000.
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The vehicle involved was a 2011 Honda Civic. The vehicle identification number (VIN) of this Honda Civic is 2HGFA1F60B_. (odi number) 10464481 already on file. Automobile is at dealership, no rental car provided as promised by american Honda corporate office. Dealership is stating that unless the duplication happens while the automobile is at their location; nothing can be done? car is accelerating at stop lights while foot is on brake, and car will not accelerate at times when the gas pedal is applied. Doors are automatically locking. This problem occurred on Jul. 25, 2012.
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The vehicle involved is a 1999 Honda Odyssey. : the contact stated while driving 20 mph on dry asphalt roads, the vehicle did not accelerate when the accelerator pedal was depressed all the way to the floor. There was no response. The vehicle was pulled to the side of the road, and all the warning lights illuminated. It was taken to a service dealer, who was unable to duplicate the problem. Updated 10/30/2006 - the dealer replaced electrical parts. The recalled part had been previously replaced when the recall was receibed about two years ago. It was Thursday, Oct. 5, 2006 when this car will not accelerate issue happened.
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The car involved was a 2012 Hyundai Sonata. The lights on the car would not shut off when locking and activating alarm. I restarted the car and shut it off again, then they shut off. I awake the next morning and the car would not start, the battery appeared to be dead. After a jump I left for work and the car would not accelerate when I applied pressure to the gas. The car then accelerated rapidly. The lights on the dash would get considerably brighter and then back to normal like a flash when activated the turn signal occasionally. The lights on the dash will also blink out from time to time. Took back to the dealer and they said they took it to a Hyundai shop. I got it back yesterday but it still appears to be doing the same problems. I haven't even made my first payment on it yet. This car will not accelerate issue occurred July 8, 2013.
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The vehicle having this issue was a 2012 Hyundai Veloster. Purchased car on 5/5/2012 with 6 miles on it. Within less than a week and 200 miles the transmission began clicking. Took it into Hyundai and they stated it needed a new transmission. After 2 1/2 weeks the transmission was replaced as Hyundai refused to give me a different car. Since then the car cannot accelerate, sounds "clunky" and when going at low speeds sounds like the gear isn't engaging and sounds/feels like it would if you released a clutch too early. Car loses power and sounds like it's about to die. A hissing and rattling sound under the hood happens as well. After taking it in to dealer, dealer states they could not find the sounds or noises or loss of power I was having. Rpms rev really high before engaging in first gear. Dealer still won't do anything since they can't diagnose it. I have almost been in multiple accidents for failure of power and car not accelerating. Takes about 3-5 seconds before it goes. Brakes grab too easily as well. Loss of gas mileage (around 6-7 mpg) was reported to dealer but dealer told me it was due to "winter gas. " I can understand 2-3 mpg difference but 6-7 is too much. Car has also been in the shop for a week for the car alarm going off constantly for no reason. A piece of the windshield plastic also fell off for no reason when car was 3 weeks old. Dealer duct taped that part down until a new part could be ordered. This car will not accelerate problem happened on May. 11, 2012.
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The reporting person owns a 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee. The contact stated that while driving approximately 50 mph, the vehicle would not accelerate and the transmission failed to down shift. Additionally, the transfer case would not shift out of four-wheel high into neutral or four wheel low properly. The failure occurred after the vehicle was serviced under NHTSA campaign id number 13v175000 (electrical system , power train). The vehicle was being taken back to the dealer for the third time due to the remedy not correcting the failure. The manufacturer was not notified of the problem. The approximate failure mileage was 86,300. The failure date was Monday, April 7, 2014.
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The car was a 2011 Jeep Patriot. While driving to work on 12/03/13 I was at an intersections attempting to accelerate and turn in to traffic on a busy highway when my car would not accelerate, almost got hit. Car continued to hesitate as I pressed the gas pedal down. Car slowly accelerated but would not go more than 40 mphs. Car continued to pull and hesitated as I was attempting to get it the shop. Major safety concern and almost get in a major accident attempting to turn into traffic. This issue happened on Dec. 5, 2013.
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The vehicle is a 2011 Kia Motor Sorento. The vehicle identification number (VIN) of the car was 5XYKTDA28B_. I came to a stop, suddenly the dash lights started flashing, and the car would not accelerate. I turned the key a couple of times but nothing happened, I turned off the radio and then turned on my emergency flashers. I then put the car in park and turned the key again. This time the car started and I drove it home. Two days later the Sorento was taken to the shop. Possible reason given on the workoder for the stalling/shutting down was that the gas tank had been overfilled. The technician also told my husband that this problem had been reported in other vehicles and should be solved by the brake switch recall, service bulletin 13v114000. He explained that the engine control system receives a signal from the brake switch for the starting process and, if the signal is not received, the vehicle will not start. Because of the faulty brake switch, he stated that it could interrupt the operation of the vehicle by sending an erroneous signal to the engine control system, activating the "no start" process. Even with the vehicle running, this would cause the engine to cut out. He further stated this recall replacement of the brake light signal switch should cure that problem. After running a complete diagnostic check on the vehicle, the service rep said there were no stored codes in the engine control memory indicating a fault. Since shutting the motor off due to an erroneous signal that the brake was not engaged is not a set fault code, this may not have been recorded. Also, the rep stated that if a fault had occurred, it may not have been in place long enough to record a fault code. Though he did give these answers verbally, they were not specifically indicated on the service invoice, and this connection was not listed on the recall notice for the brake light switch. Is this kias official position that the brake switch recall fixes the engine shutdown?. The failure date was Sunday, June 23, 2013.
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The VIN of the problem Mks is 1LNHL9EK4D_. Consumer owns a 2013 Lincoln Mks. The contact stated that the my-touch system enabled the my-key system automatically. As a result, the vehicle would not accelerate over 59 mph. In addition, the my-touch system automatically rebooted and caused the air conditioner blower to shut off. The vehicle was taken to a dealer where the failure was unable to be replicated. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The vehicle was not repaired. The approximate failure mileage was 9,300 and the current mileage was 12,500. It was Jan. 16, 2013 when this car will not accelerate issue occurred.
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The vehicle's vehicle identification number (VIN) was 2LMDJ8JK5B_. Tl- the vehicle is a 2011 Lincoln Mkx. The contact stated the vehicle was experiencing multiple failures. The first failure was both the heat and air-conditioning unit activated at the same time, despite both units being turned off. The second failure was inaccurate readings from the electrical meters and gauges along the instrument panel. The final failure was while traveling at low speeds the vehicle failed to accelerate properly. The vehicle was taken to the dealer and the manufacturer was contacted, but the vehicle had not been repaired. The failure mileage was 535 and the current mileage was 800. Vf. This problem occurred on Thursday, Aug. 4, 2011.
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The car involved was a 2004 Mazda Mazda6. Originally, 5 months ago, I noticed a problem with my 2004 Mazda 6i at when stopped at a red light. I noticed the cars idle pick up and the dashboard display flickered. The problem went away and the car was fine. A week later, I was driving on the freeway and again the dashboard started flickering and the car would not accelerate and hesistated to stay at a consistent speed. This was highly dangerous as I could not keep up with the flow of traffic and could have easily caused an accident. The problem ceased in a span of 2 minutes and the car was fine. I immediately scheduled an appointment at my local Mazda service center and after two days of investigating, they could not find the problem, therefore they could not fix the problem. The problem actually never occured again until a few weeks ago. I was driving home and I noticed some hesitency in acceleration and as I pulled in my garage, the car flat out stalled. I took the car out on roads that were not busy and the problem did not happen again. Then last night as I was pulling in on, the exact problem that happened previously happened again and my car stalled after entering my garage. I am some what fearful of driving my car on the freeway with the thought it could stall out. This problem occurred on Tuesday, March 22, 2005.
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The vehicle was a 2007 Mercedes Benz C230. The VIN of the problem C230 is WDBRF52H47_. Balance shaft premature failure found by cel (check engine light) during diagnostics check at Mercedes Benz of nashville, TN. The engine has been running well so I was shocked that the first time my check engine light came on that the repair is the balance shaft $5,600 repair. Mbusa refused good will assistance to service director bill hudson on 8/21/13. The service report shows all engine related checks are green/good except for the check engine light reading balance shaft replacement required. I drive over 100 interstate miles daily so the warranty is exceeded quickly. Based on # of claims this is a common problem that will eventually be a safety hazard because the car will fail to accelerate when merging and even stall out complete at any speed. Where is the recall?????. The failure date was 07/10/13.
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The car involved was a 1997 Mercedes Benz C Class. Was driving vehicle down the highway traveling at normal speeds. All of a sudden car began backfiring and speed dropped from 65 mph to 30 mph. The car would not accelerate and began to backfire more. Temp went up and car started smoking. Pulled over to check on car and it never restarted again. Contacted mb assist and was told I would need a jump with thick gauge cables and they could send a tech but the charges would be at minimum $100. Its been over a week and the car will not start. I've put batteries in fob (they never had any before) , charged car battery , checked all fuses, jumped car battery and now am being given a p1570 immobilizer code . The car alarm has never been activated. . This car is making absolute no sense with the errors and no explanation as to why it nearly caught fire and wont start now. . . This car will not accelerate problem happened on Fri., May. 4, 2012.
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The car is a 2004 Mercury Monterey. The front end of the car was welded improperly and the weather stripping was faulty allowing water to pour down into the car and onto the powertrain control module (pcm) at any time after it rains causing the car to lose power and the transmission to fail. This is a known and common problem among '04 Monterey and Ford freestars. When the pcm is wet it shorts out all transmission shifting and engine regulation. The first time this happened the car would not start or run properly, had irregular engine power, and the transmission would not shift. The engine was trying accelerate even in park. The car had been parked overnight and ran fine the day before, but caused trouble the next day. It had rained during the night. When the pcm dried out the car ran normally again. The second time however, the pcm completely shorted out and is irreparable. The engine runs sporadically and the transmission will not shift out of first gear creating a driving hazard. The car seemed alright until I was on the road test driving and the car would not accelerate, causing me to be stuck going a max of 15 mph in traffic. The car then lost power, forcing me to pull of to the side. It was Monday, April 8, 2013 when this car will not accelerate issue occurred.
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The vehicle involved was a 2005 Mercury Mariner. Car accelerated as I tried to stop. Then when I tried to go, I pressed the gas and it would not go but the rpm's went really high. Then the car died and I had to wait a few minutes to turn it back on. 2nd incident- I was driving on a busy road during rush hour and tried to stop at a stop light but the car accelerated so I had to keep breaking but the car would not stop accelerating so I turned the car off. When I tried to turn the car back on, nothing worked (had no power at all therefor I could not turn on my hazards to signal to people that my car was stalled). I waited then tried to turn it on again and it turned on but was still accelerating only I was in park so it did not go anywhere. I turned the engine off but did not turn the car off so I could turn hazards on. I waited several minutes then tried again and was able to pull off the road. This car will not accelerate problem happened on 09/24/2013.
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The vehicle was a 2003 Mitsubishi Lancer evolution. 1. This car is completely stock and driven by an adult who does not race or abuse any of the cars mechanical systems. 2. The issue I have is with a obd-ii 'engine warning' code cell 0300 I repeatedly get while driving on the freeway. I experience this warning up to 5 times a day during my 20 mile freeway commute. The cel warning comes on most often during very light acceleration inputs (5-15% throttle) while attempting to maintain speed with the other traffic on the road. While gently touching the throttle, there is a sudden and violent engine misfiring that slows the car down considerably. This makes me a safety hazard on the streets because the car will not accelerate again until I let off the throttle completely then jab it violently (50% or more throttle). This error repeats each time I use gentle throttle inputs on the freeway. As a result, I drive around with my "check engine" light lit almost 100% of the time. In the state of CA, if your engine light is on when you go for your annual smog/emissions test, you are instantly failed! my car would fail an emissions test in this state because the equipment is not operating properly. 3. I approached the dealer with this issue. They replaced the coil packs and the spark plugs to see if that would fix things. And while they were very cordial about finding the source of the problem, and fixing it under warranty, they were not able to fix my car. They also don't know what is causing the ecu to throw this error code. So I am currently driving a 1 year old car that is still shuddering violently at highway speeds, creating a rolling roadblock when shuddering, and is an instant fail when it comes time to do a smog check. This problem obviously effects the safety of my vehicle and the resale value of my vehicle and needs to addressed right away. This car will not accelerate problem happened on Feb. 1, 2004.
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The car is a 2014 Nissan Rogue. The VIN of the problem Rogue is 5N1AT2MT7E_. On Sunday January 11th, 2014, my family and I were on our way home. After stopping at a service station my husband pulled onto the highway and was accelerating to the appropriate speed and the car just got stuck at 6500 rpm's and 60 mph. It stayed that way for about 5 miles,we could slow down but the rpm's were still stuck at 6500 and the engine was making a horrible sound, the car would not accelerate and several times we had to ride the shoulder of the road. When we finally reached the road we live off of my husband was able to slow down and turn while turning the awful noise got a little lower but a new noise was heard, a whining sound. After turning, the car lost all gas, nothing happened when the accelerator was pushed and then finally it started to go again. We arrived at our home my husband opened the hood and told me to press the accelerator a little and then he saw small puffs of smoke. I smelled something like burning rubber while sitting in the drivers seat and my husband said he smelled something sweet under the hood. This car was bought brand new on January 4th, 2014, it had 25 miles when purchased. The mileage on January 11th was around 500. This is a dangerous vehicle, I am waiting on the dealership to call and let me know what they find. This car will not accelerate issue occurred Sunday, January 12, 2014.
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The car involved was a 2007 Nissan Maxima. VIN of the vehicle was 1N4BA41E17_. Abs sensor problems . Vehicle will not accelerate. This car will not accelerate problem happened on Monday, December 9, 2013.
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The vehicle identification number (VIN) is 5GZCZ33D83_. I have an 03 Saturn Vue with multiple issues. I should have complained years ago but I am only now seeing the blogs regarding this dangerous hideous vehicle. The back window wiper blades work whenever, sporadically; the emergency flashers are inoperable most of the time, the button that turns them on is defective,;the electrical system- caution lights come on and off;reduced power light comes on and the car will not accelerate in heavy traffic. I have had some close calls in this vehicle and I realized it should of not been allowed to be on the road. It is a disaster. Why are our tax dollars bailing out companies like gm when they make such defective, death traps as this? something is truly wrong here. Run from the Saturn Vue -hopefully it will not be on the road much longer but I just don't want to be one of its casualties. This problem occurred on 09/14/2009.
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The VIN of this Reno is KL5JD66Z76_. The transmission in my 2006 Suzuki Reno has always felt funky. Last year when I started my car and put the transmission in reverse, it made a loud noise, the gear selector display on the dashboard went all crazy showing all letters (d,n,r), and then the engine light came on. When I drove, the car wasn't working right. It felt like the transmission was all over the place and the car would not accelerate properly. The diagnostic computer showed two codes po700 and po705. I had to change the transmission range sensor at my own cost. I have read online forums, and a lot of people who own Reno 2006, 2007 or 2008 have had the same problem. Also people who own Suzuki forenzas 2005, 2006, 2007 and 2008 models have had this problem. If you google "Suzuki transmission problems", there is a lot of people complaining about the same thing. . The failure date was 09/15/2010.
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The car involved was a 2006 Suzuki Forenza. Transmission range sensor switch malfunctioned. Car would not accelerate while driving down the freeway. This car will not accelerate issue occurred 09/22/2011.
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The vehicle was a 2003 Toyota Sequoia. Upon normal driving the vehicle would not accelerate accurately and quickly enough after making a left turn. The vehicle would also randomly illuminate 3 indicator lights when the brake pedal is depressed. The 3 indicators are brake, trac off, vsc off. Before these lights illuminate the vehicle's brake pedal would become very hard to press causing the brake pedal to require much more force applied to it thus causing a decrease in stopping distance which is a very serious safety issue. It was Wednesday, January 1, 2014 when this car will not accelerate issue happened.
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While driving on the highway at 70 mph, the following symptoms occurred on my 2005 Toyota Prius: (1) car would not accelerate, (2) engine light came on, (3) problem light came on, (4) battery went red, (5) car stalled and would not accelerate/drive any further. After turning off the car and restarting it, I was able to drive it back and the battery recharged itself to green. After taking it to the dealership and having this problem "fixed", the exact same situation happened two more times, again 6 months later and then 2 weeks after that. The second time I was driving again on the highway at 70 mph, the third time I was driving at night at 40 mph. This problem occurred on Jan. 20, 2012.
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The car was a 2012 Volkswagen Tiguan. While driving on highway going approximately 50 mph in a merging lane, car would not accelerate any further. Cars were speeding by and I could not accelerate. Epc light came on. Had to get off highway and have car towed to dealership. This car will not accelerate issue occurred 10/26/13.
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The vehicle having this issue was a 2013 Volkswagen Gti. Took car for first drive. After traveling 145 miles into this trip when trouble started. Ambient temp was 101f. Drive time was just over 2. 5 hours. Gas tank was slightly over half empty. Car stalled taking off from stop. Engine running but car would not accelerate. Engine then stopped. Cranked over (started) and went about 2 blocks. Car stalled again. This time it was difficult to get started again. Had to crank it 3-4 times. Started then stalled. Engine malfunction light came on. Eventually started. While driving on highway at 55mph engine turned off without warning. I pointed car to the shoulder and braked to a stop. Two more stop light incidents where car stalled and quit running at and in intersections. Pulled over and called dealer. Talked to service consultant. Discussed options. Engine malfunction light on all the time. Even though roadside assistance was offered, service consultant stated that since the engine light was steady amber it should be ok to drive if I was comfortable doing it. I determined my best option was to drive it back to tucson. Waiting for roadside assistance on hwy 191 between safford and willcox in 100f+ sunshine would have been unacceptable, if not more dangerous than driving the car - because of the remote location and the extreme heat. Made it back to tucson. Drove straight to service and dropped the car off. Total mileage on car 353 miles. Note that I had not added any gas to the vehicle, and was still using the gas provided by dealer upon delivery. (I mention this because a tech asked if diesel fuel was put in the tank instead of gas. No!) dealer service confirmed fuel pump not working properly and replicated problem. Noted fuel pump extremely hot and discovered associated electrical damage to fuel control module with strong potential for fire. In my opinion, this is a critical safety problem and should be investigated. It was Aug. 17, 2013 when this car will not accelerate issue occurred.
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Last night my 2004 Volvo Xc90 left me on the side of the road interstate 88 near rock falls, IL weather 7:00 pm 28° humidity: 73% wind: nne dew point: 22° pressure: 30. 16 in bone dry while driving 65mph felt a "thump" in the front end, followed by a split second where all dashboard lights, went black. While trying to push the gas pedal the car would not accelerate. Then normal function resumed. A minute or two later, same thing and all lights internally completely went out, I pulled over immediately and turned the car off. Hazard lights could not be turned on. After calling for a tow truck, and waiting about 45 minutes I restarted it. There were 2 messages on the dash, the yellow exclamation point dashboard icon/alert lit up, a service message flashed referring to the anti-lock brake failure, the srs needed urgent attention. I purchased this vehicle in early November 2012 I called the closest Volvo dealership and was told there were no open recalls and they had to have the vehicle for diagnosis because of the different symptoms I reported not a single mention of NHTSA defect investigations for the 2004 Volvo Xc90 that seems specifically related to my symptoms experienced. From: erica henry [mailto:ehenry@brianbemis. Com] sent: Friday, December 28, 2012 11:55 am denny wallace subject: service request - yes I would like to make an appointment for Jan 10th. There are no open recalls on your vehicle. Because of the different symptoms that you experienced, we really need to have the car here to perform a diagnosis. There should have been some trouble codes stored in the system, and those will help my technician further diagnose the problem. If you¿d like to schedule still please let me know. Erica henry, service advisor - brian bemis world auto direct line 815-991-2770. This problem occurred on Thursday, Dec. 27, 2012.
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Car: 2001 Volvo V70 awd xc
mileage: 45,879
while driving the vehicle on a controlled access highway, the car without notice lost power. The engine would not accelerate beyond 1,000 rpm and the car decelerated rapidly from approximately 60 mph to less than 20 mph. Given the rapid, unexpected deceleration, it was quite possible that the loss of power could have lead to a very serious situation. After pulling off to the side of the road and restarting the car, it would run normally for a period of time. Prior to this incident, the car performed normally and no warning light indicators were activated. The car was brought to a Volvo dealer, who after inspecting the car stated that electronic throttle control (throttle body) had failed and needed to be replaced. Cost incurred for throttle body replacement were $845. 25, including labor. It was Monday, July 11, 2005 when this car will not accelerate issue occurred.
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The vehicle having this issue was a 2005 Buick Rendezvous. I started driving my car and a few blocks away my locks started to lock and unlock constantly and they would not stop. My seat moved on its own (has electric memory seating). The car started to shake like it was going to die. As soon as I came to a stop the car started to shake and would not accelerate. An "error" messages displayed under the non working speedometer where your miles usually show". Came to another stop and tried to turn onto a street and the car would not accelerate and kept "jumping" all the while the locks were still locking and unlocking and my running daytime headlights kept flickering on and off. I'm lucky that the car didn't just quit with oncoming traffic. From what I read, it's the bcm and this causes major problems regarding the safety of the vehicle. Buick is aware and will not make a recall on this defective part. (a part that is supposed to last for the lifetime of the vehicle). . A part that has caused some drivers to lose power and headlights while traveling down highways! I'm taking my car into Buick tomorrow for a diagnostic (which I can't afford more problems with a car that cost $40k in 2005 and only has 81k miles on it!!) when they say luxury vehicle. I think Buick meant "luxury expense" just to own one! electrical issues shouldn't almost cause an accident or injury!. This issue happened on 03/12/14.
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The reporting person owns a 2012 Buick Regal. The contact stated that the vehicle rpms idles high and the vehicle failed to accelerate over 45mph. Also, the contact mentioned that the doors failed to unlock with the remote control and as a result, she had to use the key to unlock the doors. The vehicle was taken to the dealer several times who was unable to duplicate the failure but decided to reprogrammed the vehicle computer system as a safety precaution. The remedy failed to repair the problem. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The VIN was not available. The failure mileage was 19 and the current mileage was 1,200. The failure date was Jul. 10, 2012.
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2004 Cadillac Srx. 40,000 miles, 3 years old. 1. 12-2006 - loud noises when vehicle was idling. Entire exhaust system replaced. 2. 4-23-2007 - check engine light came on. Car then began accelerating on its own. Replaced the throttle position sensor. 3. 6-21-2007 - engine would not accelerate beyond 20 mph. Service engine soon light came on. Took car in, it would not duplicate problem, was not fixed. 4. 6-29-2007 - picked car up. Noticed fuel gage was not working. Advised they did not know what caused fuel gage to not work, and was not related to the service engine message on 6-21-2007. Replaced the fuel sensor. They damaged the fuel hoses, ended up not getting vehicle back until Friday, 7-6-2007. 5. 7-12-2007: the check engine light came on again, vehicle started accelerating on its own (similar to 4-23-2007 issue). Took car back, vehicle was accelerating while it checked in, also strange odor coming from car. Replaced the throttle position sensor (same as replaced 4-23-07). 6. 8-3-2007: the ?service engine soon? message appeared on the driver screen and car again failed to accelerate. Drove car to service and left it on so that they can hook it up to the computer immediately. Discussed that it may be time to send this vehicle back to manufacturer. Service manager is aware of our concerns ? vehicle is not reliable. 9. 8/6/ they called and are going to replace one of the engine computers today (the ecm). They are then going to drive it around to be sure that takes care of it. 8/9/ picked up vehicle, seems to be working fine - time will tell. If this does not take care of it, we will be asking the dealer to contact the manufacturer and ask them to purchase the vehicle back from us. It was Monday, Apr. 23, 2007 when this car will not accelerate issue happened.
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