Starter problem is a common vehicle problem that happens to most car brands and models. The following is a sample list of Starter problems reported in most popular vehicles.
The vehicle having this issue was a 2008 Chevrolet Uplander. The vehicle's vehicle identification number (VIN) was 1GNDV23W38_. Transmission went out . Dash light go out, seat belts all of them unlatch by them self, I replaced the breaks 6 times already, emission vapor canister went out , the engine light always on . It all ways say check gas cap,know my van not working. I can't clean any hard codes, passenger right side door unlatch when I was and the bottom half of the door hit the grond on the freeway with my 5 kids in the car , my 20 yr son was sitting by his eight yr old brother . My eight yr old was on the side that came unlatch thank god he un did his brother seat belt and grab him and held on to him tight until I stop the vehecl . The started went out,the back air condition won't work, the passenger right side joint broke, the van over heats all the time wich cause the transmission to go out and the starter went I replace transmission starter and thermstated . The van a pice of shit and I want my money back I paid for in cash. I brought the van in 2008 and paid cash for it . I had nothing but problems with it since I brought it in 11/1/2008. The problems started 2 days after I brought the van home. I wish never had gotten it. The damm thing a lemon they need force chevy to recall the god damm lemon 2008 chevy Uplander and give me my money back so I can go some were else and by my family a a real van , I'm a single mom of 5 childern and I need a realible van ,not a pice of shit. This issue happened on Saturday, November 1, 2008.
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Vehicle identification number (VIN): 3GNDA23P06_. 2006 Chevrolet Hhr. Consumer writes in regards to vehicle power steering and starter failure. Consumer seeks financial assistance. It was 05/01/2014 when this starter issue happened.
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The car involved is a 2006 Chrysler Pt Cruiser. The VIN of this Pt Cruiser is 3A4FY58B56_. I got the car 6 months ago and have had nothing but problems. All the dash lights come on and the gauges go to zero. It has almost caused me to be in an accident, it died in the middle of a busy intersection, it has died while I'm stopped at a red light and happens at various speeds, I've replaced the, alternator, starter, gauge cluster and some other small things and nothing is working. I've seen a lot of people with the same problem, Chrysler should be doing something about this, I don't know what to do anymore with it, I'm not rich I can't afford a new car or to keep putting money into the car. The failure date was Mon., Dec. 30, 2013.
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Tl-the vehicle is a 2008 Chrysler Sebring. The contact stated while driving approximately 30 mph, the vehicle stalled without any prior warning. After the engine restarted the horn sounded independently. The vehicle was maneuvered to the side of the road and the contact touched the fuse box lid and then the cruise control, remote starter and horn became inoperable due to a short circuit. The contact also mentioned that the tire pressure monitoring system warning indicator illuminated after the failure occurred. There was a recall related to the failure under NHTSA campaign id number 08v1520000 (electrical system), however the VIN was not included. The manufacturer was notified of the defect. The approximate failure mileage was 67,000. Js. The failure date was Thursday, May 1, 2014.
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The vehicle involved is a 1999 Dodge Durango. Engine shutdown, out of the blue. Nobus appeared on odometer. All gauges were on 0, but all other electronics worked. Starter would crank, but ignition would not ignite. I'm not sure if fuel pump went on or not. Vehicle would not start back up for apx 20 minutes. A couple days later, it happened again, then twice in one day. The quickest, but temporary, solution is to cool down pcm. An ice pack works great! but this is not always convenient. Needless to say, problem is worse on hot days. Once this happens, you need to replace pcm because solder joints are broken within. When unit cools, metal contracts, and contact is made again, and truck will start. But keep in mind-the solder joints are still broken. When unit heats back up, metal will expand, and connection will be lost again, causing engine shutdown and no bus to electrical ignition system. The very first time this happened, I had gone over a bump, which is probably what initially "broke" the solder joint. A new pcm can run $400. One from a junk yard could work, but there's always the risk that, it too, has the same problem-maybe that's why the truck is in the junkyard to begin with! and if it was in front end collision, good chance it won't be any good either! I've owned my Durango for 13 years, and it has never really left me stranded. But now that it has this problem, combined with bad design of front hub assy, vehicle is very unsafe and it's time to retire it - even though motor still runs strong. It was March 10, 2014 when this starter issue occurred.
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The VIN of the car is 2D4RN5D16A_. 2010 Dodge Grand Caravan did not start. This has been an intermittent problem. It has been happening for approximately 1 year. Turn the key and all of the accessories work but starter clicks but will not turn the motor over. Took vehicle to the dealer on 4/30/2014 and was told the starter was bad and was replaced. Drove the vehicle to school that day to pick up child and vehicle did not start. After several tries it started. Drove to work later in the day, shut the vehicle down and tried to restart it and it would not start. Battery has been tested and is good. All signs point to a faulty win. After reading recalls about win wireless interface node modules, I, like several other people, have found that my vehicle does not fall under this recall, missing it by 3 months. Vehicle has been brought back to the dealer to try to get the vehicle to duplicate the problem. Contacted Chrysler/Dodge's 1 800 number and was told the complaint was going to be escalated to the next level because I have called them before about this issue. I now fear that it will shut down when I'm travelling or will not start when I need it to and be left stranded. This issue happened on Wednesday, April 30, 2014.
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The vehicle involved is a 2005 Ford F-250. The VIN of the problem F-250 is 1FTSW20P65_. The owner has a 2005 Ford f250. The contact stated that the vehicle was hesitant upon start-up. The failure was recurring. The starter would turn over but the engine would not engage. The battery was replaced twice but to no avail. Additionally, black smoke was emitting from the vehicle and the vehicle would stall sporadically. The vehicle was to be inspected, diagnosed and repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 109000. This starter problem happened on Mar. 24, 2014.
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The vehicle was a 2012 Ford F-450. The vehicle's vehicle identification number (VIN) was 1FDUF4GTXC_. This vehicle is an ambulance and was dispatched on an emergency call. The crew attempted to crank the vehicle, but the starter would not even engage. Another ambulance had to be dispatched to the call. It was later determined that one of the four exhaust gas temperatur sensors had failed and disabled the vehicle. Had the vehicle been traveling on the highway, a very dangerous situation could have occurred. There was not an over heated exhaust condition nor an exhaust emission problem at the time, which is what these sensors are designed to detect. The powertrain control module(pcm) should not be programed to shut down a vehicle because of one sensor. Reduction of power may be acceptable. If more than one sensor detects a problem then that may be acceptable. Our agency has several of these vehicles and has experienced the same issue with most of them. This issue happened on Friday, August 2, 2013.
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The vehicle involved is a 2001 GMC Safari. The VIN of this Safari is 1GKDM19W21_. At times vehicle will not start until the steering column shift lever is moved. All power is up, turn key and no response. Depress brake pedal and move shift lever from p to d3 may cause starter to work. Told by aaa driver that this is a common problem. This starter problem happened on May. 19, 2014.
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The vehicle involved was a 1999 GMC Savana. The reporting person owns a 1999 GMC savanna. The contact stated that upon starting the vehicle, he heard an abnormal noise. The contact inspected the vehicle and fund that the starter bolt had failed. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was contacted about the failure. The failure mileage was 130,000. The VIN was not available. The failure date was Thu., Feb. 13, 2014.
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I've been having problems with my Acura Tl (2006) starting. In January of this year, it was determined that I had a faulty battery and that was replaced under warranty. Last week, my car was getting very slow to start. I take it in to Acura and they tell me that the hands free link has a parasitic draw on the battery and told me it needed to be replaced. I have never, ever used this feature and was incensed that I had to pay $400 to replace it! today, a mere seven days later, my car would not start at all. I had it towed back to the Acura and they tell me its the starter. . . Over $500 to fix!!! I've read on several forums that there have been issues with the hfl. Being stranded is a safety issue! Acura and the government needs to take this seriously. I am a single parent and this has placed a parasitic drain on my savings!. This problem occurred on Apr. 4, 2014.
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The vehicle having this issue was a 2005 Acura Tl. The VIN of this vehicle is 19UUA66235_. My issues with my car started about 3 years ago. I have had to replace the power steering rack and pump after the Acura recalled the hoses, but I was told that the hoses had nothing to do with my issue. I have had to replace the starter, the headlight computer unit, and both ignitors in the headlight. I am on my third battery in 2 years and no one can tell me why my battery is continuously dying. About two years ago, the bluetooth system all of a sudden stopped working. In the last year, my dashboard has started to crack from the driver to the passenger side, and the damage is much severe and prominent over the air bag area. I was told by Acura support that it should not cause any problems to the air bag, and the air bag should deploy appropriately with no problems. Prior to me purchasing my so-called "luxury" Acura, I had a 2000 Honda civic, and I never had any major issues with it. Thinking that I purchase an Acura, and it was the worst mistake I've made in my life. I have advised all my family and friends not to purchase an Acura becasue the quality sucks and it is a waste of your money due to all the money you have to put in for the repairs. In the past couple of months, I've spent almost $4000 on repairs for simple things like headlight issues and sensors. I spoke with Acura customer care about assistance with repairing my dashboard and I was offer a 50% discount based on their criteria which I believe are ridiculous. One of the criteria that they look at is to see have you been a loyal customer as far as maintenance and repairs are concerned. I informed the guy that the nearest Acura dealership is an hour and half away from my home, and it made no sense for my to drive the distance for an oil change. Completely fed up with Acura!!. This problem occurred on Sat., Jan. 1, 2011.
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The vehicle involved is a 2008 Honda Cr-v. The vehicle's vehicle identification number (VIN) was JHLRE38368_. Tl- the owner has a 2008 Honda crv. The contact stated when turning the ignition switch, the vehicle sounded as if there was a buzzing noise before the vehicle started intermittently. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic who diagnosed that the starter motor and the wiring cable needed to be replaced. The vehicle was repaired and the failure recurred. The vehicle was to be inspect, diagnosed and repaired by an authorized dealer. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 96,000. Dyd. This problem occurred on Mon., Sep. 10, 2012.
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The VIN of this vehicle is 2HJYK16368_. My 2007 Honda Accord had starting problem, and the engine stalled when I backed up sometimes,especially when in hot condition. It will eventually started after 3 or 4 time when I tried to started. The mechanic didn't find any problem with starter or battery, but I change it anyway for my safety; the problem still there. After researched on the internet, I changed the ignition witch; the problem solved. Honda should look into this problem to prevent accidents or deaths. My car engine shut off when I backed up a few times not in forward. Hopefully it will not happen in forward condition to any drivers. This issue happened on Friday, Apr. 18, 2014.
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The car involved was a 2012 Hyundai Veloster. The vehicle's vehicle identification number (VIN) is KMHTC6AD3C_. Vehicle fails to engage starter during start sequence. Tried battery booster jump but no change in condition. Car has full power to all lighting and gauges but will not engage starter, all you hear is a "click" sound from engine compartment. Problem has been intermittent since car was towed to dealers on 11/25/13 for no start condition. Dealer was unable to duplicate problem but performed technical service updates to ecm & info ctr. Head unit. Frequency of problem has accelerated over past 4 days and now have to "pop start" the car by rolling it and letting out clutch in gear to start engine. This is a safety issue since the car can leave you stranded with no warning. This starter issue occurred 01/28/2014.
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The vehicle was a 2011 Hyundai Tucson. The car would not start when I went to start it up. It was parked outside overnight in 20 degree weather and just clicked when I went to start it. I had to call Hyundai roadside assistance to come and jump the car. They did and it took them a couple of tries and they had to use their vehicle, not the portable starter. They said that the battery was drained. There was no reason for that because there were no lights left on. I took it in for service and they checked the battery and said it was it happened again on February 3, 2013 and I had to do the same thing. I had the dealership check the battery and it was fine. On March 15, 2013, the dealership checked the battery and it registered a strong charge. The dealership wanted me to leave the car there overnight to duplicate the conditions of the car not starting up, but were not willing to let me use a free loaner. As the temperature warmed up, it was not an issue. However, today I went to start my car and leave for work, the vehicle did not start up. It just clicked, the radio worked, lights worked, but the engine would not turn over. I am taking the vehicle to the dealership later today and they will let me use a loaner for free. I hope that they are able to diagnose and fix the problem as I need my vehicle for transportation. It was Wed., Dec. 26, 2012 when this starter issue happened.
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The car involved was a 2006 Infiniti M35. The VIN of the problem M35 is JNKAY01E86_. : the contact stated the ignition was designed with a keyless push button starter and upon exiting the vehicle there was no alarm to remind the occupants to depress the button to turn off the engine. The dealer and manufacturer were alerted. Updated 10/25/2006 - the consumer has inadvertently lock the vehicle and left it running twice. The failure date was 09/13/06.
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I have a 1997 Infiniti I30 that was purchased oct 2006 with apprx 94,000 now has 105,000. Car has been a lemon from month 2 on, I have spent over $2000 in repairs. I have even taken the vehicle to the local Infiniti dealership and them nor anyone else can figure out what is wrong with the vehicle. I have replaced 2 starters, alternator, ignition switch, 2 ignition coils, cam shaft angle sensor, crank shaft angle sensor, 3 sets of spark plugs,valve cover gaskets, fuel pump, fuel filters, major front and back wheel computerized alignment, transmission filter and oil. Car spits and sputters acting like its running out of gas. It dies when at a light, in gear, reverse, takes a turn. . . . Pretty much all the time, Infiniti dealer says only thing wrong is a shutter sensor which was told that would not affect the driving. I am currently at a loss for what I should do to have my car replaced, I am a senior citizen and on social security and have a very limited income but need my car fixed. I am seeking any kind of help for fixing my car. Thank you in advance. This problem occurred on Tuesday, Feb. 27, 2007.
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The vehicle was a 2007 Jeep Commander. The VIN of this vehicle is 1J8HG582X7_. When you try to start, it would turn over and click, but not start. After about 10 times, it would finally start. My mechanic checked the battery ( which was about 3 months old) and it was good. He changed the started and still had the same problem. Put in another starter, assuming the part was bad. Still had same problem. Just replaced the ignition switch. Car started this morning at his shop, but would not start until I attempted to start it about 10 times and it finally started. An intermittent starting problem. It was Saturday, May 10, 2014 when this starter issue occurred.
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The car is a 2008 Jeep Commander. Purchased 3/11. 6/11 myself/3 others were lockedâ� in the vehicle. Doors wouldn't unlock/open, windows didn't work, wouldn't start. We were held hostage for 5 min when it start up and everything worked. 6/11 exited-left the keys on seat 30 sec later lights inside flickered, doors locked, horn honked. 7/2011 driving down the highway at 70 mph it momentarily shut off for about 3 sec and turned its self-back on. This caused a drastic drop in speed before it restarted. 7/11 drivers side floor mat was very wet from rain entering the truck. 7/11 driving in a rain storm witnessed water coming down the driver's side pillar next to the windshield. 4/12 attempted to start it. Everything worked but wouldn't start 20 min later started right up. This happened 7 times since. 3/14 parked for 2 min wouldn't restart. Had it towed to a shop where they started it right up. They couldn't find anything wrong . Went to pick it up and it wouldn't start. So they started replacing things hoping they could find a problem. New battery-old battery was good, fuses, starter, relays and out of the blue two days later it started up even after attempts after the fixes 5/13 all lights went out, wipers, wiper sprayer, horn, blinkers, dash lights, rear park assist all stopped working. I was forced to drive home in the rain at night with none of these. 4/14 this happened again for about 24 hours. 5/14 this happened again for 5 days. I have called dealerships about recalls and always told no and to bring it in at $100/hour to find the issues. It has been hooked up to code readers 10+ time with no codes. Licensed mechanics who can tell me only what they think it could be, educated guesses. Every day is a guessing game with this Jeep and what it's going to do or when I'm going to get injured due to one of these numerous, chronic, magical issues. This problem occurred on Friday, Apr. 1, 2011.
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The vehicle involved is a 2006 Kia Motor Sedona. We bought this kia Sedona from a dealer and from the time we bought it always had some starting problem. So when we took to the dealer they said it is the battery and replaced the battery and again the same problem and then they said to replace the battery connecting parts as they are not connecting right. Then had some fuse problems and had to replace some fuse and the ac was down replaced the ac. Again battery problem and not starting. The dealer said to replace a new battery and we said it is a new one, but told to put a kia battery and replaced it, after few days again car slow downed the speed while driving and stopped middle of the road. Had to tow to the dealer. They said it is the starter motor and replaced it. After a year, same problem - car was not starting and then finally they said it is the fuse box and had to replace the whole fuse box as it was not working right. I have two children and this is not safe to drive if it slows downs or stop while driving. I would appreciate if someone can check into it and as there will be more people like me having this problem. We have a Mazda but we have spend way more money and our time on this kia as it brake downs a lot. This issue happened on August 10, 2012.
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The vehicle was a 2011 Kia Motor Optima. I was leaving work @ 5:45 pm and got in my car, but it would not start. I tried for 20 minutes before I called kia ledgen dealership for help. They told me where to put the aux key starter inside the glove box area. After several attempts the car still would not start. They told me a would have to call the 800 number to get a jump or have my car towed. I found a CO-worker who gave me a jump and the car started right up. I proceeded to a firestone station and got a new batter ($146. 00). Started right up and had no problems until my wife and I went to the mall today (Dec 28) and my car would no start again. I thought we were going to get stranded or needed to find a jump. After 5 attempts it finally started and I took my car back to the dealership and they said they could not duplicate the problem so there was nothing they could do. After stating that I read about other kia owners having the same problem they decided to keep it over night. Are there other owners with similar problems that can lead me in the right direction to get this problem fixed?. It was Thursday, December 20, 2012 when this starter issue happened.
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The car was a 2003 Land Rover Freelander. Landrover Freelander ongoing repairs. 1) bad passenger window actuator. 2) bad fuel pump
3) bad ignition/starter. 4) transmission failure. The failure date was 09/10/07.
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The car involved is a 2002 Land Rover Freelander. January 15th, 2005 my wife left work and the vehicle would not start. The outside air temperature was ~ 20 f. All other electrical components were working, but the starter selenoid would not engage. Several attempts were made to jump start the vehicle and an attempt to reset the security yeilded nothing. The diagnosed no fault after having the vehicle for 3 weeks. This problem occurred on Jan. 14, 2005.
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The vehicle was a 2000 Lexus Es. The vehicle identification number (VIN) of this Lexus Es is JT8BF28G3Y_. I put my key in the ignition, the car started by itself sounded bad, I had not turned key. Removed key and car kept running. We had it parked in garage. Could not get car to turn off, heard something explode under hood, smoke started pouring out from under hood. Called fire department. Firemen opened hood, starter had caught fire and possibly celinoi. New battery bought 1/4/2014 was damaged and dead. Lexus mechanic told me he saw this on other models but not our model. Estmated repair cost 820. 00. This starter problem happened on Thursday, April 17, 2014.
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The vehicle involved is a 2006 Lexus Rx400h. Dead starter battery -
1. Since the vehicle was new (we are original owners) the starter battery would be dead if we did not drive the car for 4 or more days (obviously not being able to take it anywhere where it would sit without a charger nearby like to an airport). Lexus has replaced the battery 3 times but just 1 month ago replaced it again and now after a 1 week trip to cancun battery was dead again. Lexus pretends to not understand the problem but many people complain of this same problem that is often much worse where the car shuts down when driving. Many people that have had this same series of problems ultimately need to have the inverter replaced which is a $9k plus part (so far it seems when its proved to Lexus they do this at no charge -- but mine is now out of warranty). 2. Problem always occurs if the car sits without being started for more than 4 days. 3. They have replaced battery 3 times. We are afraid that our problem will escalate and my wife will be driving with our 8 & 10 year old children and the battery system will fail causing the entire car to shut down and she is not strong enough to steer to safety when brake and steering are not working. It is unfair for us to potentially have to sell the vehicle at a huge loss to avoid this potential issue (and then someone else will have the problem). It was Oct. 25, 2010 when this starter issue happened.
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Tl- consumer owns a 1992 Lincoln Town Car 75,000 miles. The contact stated that after driving the vehicle for short distance the vehicle was parked and shut off. When attempting to restart the vehicle the vehicle would not start. The contact stated that he was sitting in the vehicle with the key in the ignition in the off position. The contact tried to trouble shoot the vehicle to see if he could get it started. The contact had the vehicle towed to a local mechanic. The vehicle was able to restart the next day with no problem. The manufacturer was contact but contact did not accept their possible reason for the starter being a possible cause for the failure. Bl. This starter issue occurred April 29, 2014.
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The VIN of this Navigator is 5LMPU28L4W_. My auto, a 98 Lincoln Navigator, sometimes will not start. The starter just grinds & vehicle cannot be started or moved except manually. This can happen at any time, even in traffic, if engine stalls. It occurs with engine hot or cold. I also incur this defect now with my 2000 Ford expedition. I believe the vehicles are manufactured with a defective flywheel assembly. This starter problem happened on Thursday, January 12, 2006.
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The vehicle involved is a 2010 Mazda Mazda6. The vehicle's vehicle identification number (VIN) was 1YVHZ8CHXA_. My car was parked, went inside store for a minute, came out and it wouldn't start. No lights prior, and I take meticulous care of my car. After a failed jump, tow was issued. The mechanic says it's a starter failure- at 42,000 miles on a brand new factory line car. Now Mazda will not respond to complaints, and attempts at reaching any supervisors have been negated. Car has been immobile for over two weeks. 42,000 is a premature failure for a brand new factory part- and the car company should pay to replace a defective portion of the vehicle. It was Jul. 22, 2012 when this starter issue occurred.
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I have had my 2007 Mazda Cx-7 for less than one year. I stopped at a red light after exiting the highway and my car engulfed in thick white smoke. I had the car towed to a local shop per my insurance company to have it checked out. The repair shop at first called to tell me it was the starter, and that it would cost 600 to fix it. Come to find out that not only the starter blew, but it also ruined the alternator as well as the fuses on the battery. I was told by Mazda that this is not a common occurrence. The total of the repairs is now over 1200. The vehicle has been meticulously maintained throughout its lifespan and is at 92,000 miles. This issue happened on Friday, September 9, 2011.
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Tl- the reporting person's vehicle is a 1996 Mercedes Benz E320. The contact stated that while driving 40 mph, the vehicle stalled without warning. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic for diagnosis and the contact was informed that the starter would need to be replaced. The vehicle was repaired; however, the failure recurred. The vehicle was towed back to the mechanic for diagnosis and the contact was informed that the wiring harness had began to dry rot and was to deteriorating. The vehicle was repaired. The failure and current mileage was 48,000. Kmj. It was 04/15/2013 when this starter issue occurred.
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The vehicle is a 1999 Mercedes Benz Slk230. When in traffic and idling, especially summer weather, the car stalls ocassionally and won't restart. Most times, when driving to a destination, turning the engine off, running an errand, and returning to start the engine, the engine won't start. The panel lights all light up, a click, but no crank or turning over. After letting the engine cool down or sit for a while and/or playing w/ the key / ignition, the engine eventually turns over. I've spent nearly $3,000 in repairs and the dealer cannot isolate the problem. Everything has been replaced except for the starter and electronic ignition module (if one exists). I'm extremely frustrated. The car has stalled in traffic numerous times causing traffic jams in manhattan, the Lincoln tunnel, and I can't tell you the number of times I receive negative comments re Mercedes Benz supposing to be a reliable expensive car. This is my 5th mercedes, and I'm about to give up permanently. In the last 3 years I have spent almost $9,000 service and repairs and am fed up and feel as if I'm being sucked dry. The failure date was June 19, 2005.
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The car involved was a 1999 Mercury Tracer. Starter motor failed causing vehicle not to start. Nlm. It was Jul. 9, 1999 when this starter issue occurred.
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The vehicle having this issue was a 1998 Mercury Tracer. The VIN of this Tracer is 1MEFM53BUW_. Had parked vehicle. Noticed vehicle making noises prior to being parked. Dashboard panel lights came on. Lifted hood & got flashlight. Returned & vehicle was engulfed in flames around the starter & dashboard area. Put flames out w/fire extinguisher. Vehicle towed to dealer. Informed fire was near rubber boot. What caused fire not found. This starter issue occurred 12/28/1998.
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The car involved is a 2008 Mitsubishi Eclipse. My car suddenly stopped starting. I thought it was the battery so I had that replaced, but upon further inspection it was discovered that my starter had gone bad. I had the starter replaced in August of 2011 (that's too soon for a 2008). On July 16, 2012 I had to have another brand new starter installed in my Eclipse. Two brand new starters in less than a year is unacceptable and it makes it worse that the car is a 2008. I feel like Mitsubishi needs to do a recall on this part. This issue happened on Aug. 21, 2011.
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The car was a 1997 Mitsubishi Montero. The VIN of the problem Montero is JA4MT31POV_. 14 hours after purchasing a new vehicle the consumer tried to start it up and the vehicle would not start, and then tried to turn the radio on and the radio did not work because of a short circuit in the electrical harness. Please describe details. This starter issue occurred 06/13/1997.
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The car is a 2010 Nissan Altima. If I have to pump the brakes to get the car started, will I soon have to pump the brakes to stop?????? vehicle not recognize the key. Happened several times prior to 6/15/2013. Just thought the key needed to be charged. But on this date I pull up at a hotel, checked in and went to move the car and it wouldn't start. Sat for an hour or two. Replaced battery a few weeks prior so it wasn't that. Had to be towed to a pepboys. Too late for a dealership, a Saturday evening, and I was over 5 hours from home. The car was dropped off across from the bays therefore they were unable to connect the diagnostic machine. After setting for a couple more hours it finally crank. They said it was the starter, as of today I have not replaced the starter. In August it did it again twice while my 16 yr was driving it to school. A couple of times in September. I took it to the dealer on 10/14/2013, their diagnosis were: replace brake sw, sub harness, and tie straps. And now almost on a daily basis want start without pumping the brakes. I'm the only one that drives the car now because I'm afraid of the brakes eventually giving out. This issue happened on Saturday, Jun. 15, 2013.
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The car involved was a 2007 Nissan Murano. The vehicle's vehicle identification number (VIN) is JN8AZ08W17_. When I turned my engine off, got out the truck and locked the doors the vehicle turned back on without me being in the truck or putting the key in the ignition. I do not have an auto starter. This happened on three different occasions. The first time we didn't even recognize it happened and it drained the battery, the second time we thought we were hallucinating and the last incident on Monday, July 15, 2013, it was 8:30 am and I was exiting the vehicle to go in to my place of employment when the vehicle turned back on. I instantly thought I locked the keys in the truck when I noticed they were in my hands. I unlocked the doors tried turning it off three times and finally on the fourth try it stayed off and didn't turn back on. I felt bad because I thought my daughter was trying to scare me about the car starting on its own. There's also an issue with the car pulling to the right all by itself. This issue happened on Jun. 10, 2013.
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The vehicle's vehicle identification number (VIN) was YS3FB49S03_. Wednesday March 3, 2007, my 2003 SAAB 9-3 linear sports sedan (automatic transmission) with 61,000 miles on the odometer was at a traffic light waiting to switch from red to green. Once the light turned green, I depressed the accelerator to proceed across the intersection. The initially accelerated to 20 mph and ceased to accelerate. I noticed that I was slowing down and steering had become heavy, I glanced at the tachometer and it showed that the engine had shut down but the electrical systems were functioning. I coasted into a parking lot and attempted to restart the engine. The engine would not start for over 15 minutes. The electrical system was running, onboard diagnostics showed ok, but the starter would not engage. After the interval of no starts, the car started. The car was brought to the dealership and diagnostic codes indicated that the ecm needed to be reprogrammed. Dealer provided no real explanation for failure. Within 3 week period, vehicle had been in for fuel system failure and replacement. Prior to that repair the car had 60k service performed on 12/13/07. The vehicle is current on all repairs required by prior recalls. The failure date was March 7, 2007.
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The vehicle involved was a 2005 Saturn Ion. I purchased this car new in Dec. 2004. I had the car @ 2 years when I noticed that the ignition would not release the key when I tried to turn off the car. The ignition switch would not go to the off position nor would it release the key. I had to turn it on and off many times or put the car into gear and back into park to get the car to off and the key released. I took the car to the dealership and they told me it was because I had the key and the car lock/alarm fob on the same ring. This explanation seemed silly and even when I removed the key from the ring that the lock/alarm, the problem continued. They did replace something but the problem continued. It is so frustrating and stressful to deal with because you can't get the key out w/o the system going off and releasing the key. Now the car has been identified as recall car due to the ignition defect. I have gone to a gm dealership and they have ordered the ignition switch that the recall was for but no word on the fact that the key will not release. I have ongoing fears and concerns that unless this key release problem is addressed, the safety issue will still be there. Maybe covered up or masked by the switch replacement but not completely fixed. A side note to this is that I had to have a new starter put in because the starter had developed a 'dead spot' in it, preventing it from starting. I believe there might be a corelation between the ignition not working properly and the 'dead spot' in the starter. This would be from me having to start and restart many many times to get the ignition to 'off' and the key realeased. I need this to be fixed completely and correctly for my safety and the safety of others. I should not be fearful when I am driving and I should not be fearful when I am shutting the car off. I need to what the plan is to repair this car completely. Thank you. The failure date was Thursday, January 25, 2007.
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The vehicle involved was a 2003 Saturn Ion. I can not provide exact dates as this has gone on for years. I bought the car in 2006. It started out, in freezing temps, the car would not start. I would have to try jumping it or wait till 10 minutes had passed and try again. This happened a lot through winter months. I eventually had to change out my starter and ignition switch back in 2012. I also have noticed the key will not turn to off completely sometimes and sometimes the key wont turn at all. This is also after changing out the switch. I am a mother of two young children and after seeing the other problems with the switch I don't feel safe driving my family down the street a block. The recall says to not drive on jarring roads, but I live in a tiny town of nothing but jarring roads. Sigh. I feel the not starting is also a safety issue because it can leave people stranded in bad weather and unable to get to where you need to go in emergencies. All anyone needs to do is search the internet about Saturn's not starting and there is hours of reading on the subject. The company knew all along. Thank you. This problem occurred on Dec. 3, 2007.
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I was driving my 6 month old 2014 Subaru Forester at about 50 mph at night and my driver's seat began reclining. I almost lost control of the car and had an accident because the mechanism to stop it was not working. It happened three more times after that occurrence. Also, the power lift gate was inoperable. I had to crawl into the back cargo area to try to open the rear lift gate. It would not open, even from the inside. It was reinitialized several times by kingery rye Subaru in rye, NY and they failed to correct the problem. Eventually they replaced the part but the operation of lift gate remains unpredictable. I need to be able to use the power lift gate at all times to put a wheelchair in the back. I was informed by Subaru of America (in writing) that some of the electrical problems that are occurring are because kingery rye Subaru installed an after market remote starter into my car without my knowledge or approval. I have written documentation from Subaru of America stating the dealers must install Subaru parts. I paid a lot of money for a Subaru remote starter. Rye Subaru put a cheap after market starter into my car. That is fraud. My car is starting randomly and without a key in the ignition. A CO-worker came into work and told me my car was locked and running in the parking lot. Recently I closed the lift gate, using the button on the lift gate and the car started itself as I was walking away from it. The car has started on its own many times. There are multiple dangerous electrical problems that are putting myself and my family's lives at risk. The side driver's and passenger's windows fog up when the heat is turned on. The DE-fogger does not remedy the problem at all. I am unable to see anything out the side windows which poses a big safety issue especially during the winter. I bought the car because it had a high safety rating. This car is not safe. The failure date was Monday, November 25, 2013.
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The VIN of the problem Impreza is JF1GPAC64C_. 2012 Subaru Impreza. Consumer writes in regards to the installation of vehicle remote starter. The consumer stated he received a recall regarding the remote started. The dealer informed the consumer, the remote that was installed in his vehicle was not a Subaru manufactured unit, and therefore not subject to recall. This problem occurred on Monday, March 3, 2014.
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The VIN of this vehicle was KL5VJ56LX5_. Consumer stated that her 2005 Suzuki Verona has been declared a lemon and would like a replacement or the dealer to buy the vehicle back. *****
here have been issues with the vehicle since that date of purchase. There have been several little issues ans some very serious issues. The brake rotors have been replaced again, after being fixed in March, noise is heard coming from the starter, and there have been issues with the transmission. This starter problem happened on Oct. 1, 2006.
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The vehicle involved was a 2004 Suzuki Forenza. Car has trouble starting and check engine light comes on intermittently. July 2007 took car in with 'hard start" problem. They found resonator assembly needed replacing. That repair was done on August 3, 2007. Car ran for approx. 2 months and we took it back in October with the check engine light on and the same "hard start" problem. They replaced the starter October 18, 2007 and stated it was arcing to high. Took car back October 21, 2007 with the same problem. October 26, 2007 the ecu computer was replaced. Took car back to shop October 29, 2007 with the same "hard start" problem. Moved the car to another dealership November 7, 2007 as no one was working on the car. This was suggested by the corporation. A repair was done on the car. December 13, 2007 took car back to this dealership with the same "hard start" problem. They checked the code and reset the check engine light. December 18, 2007 returned to the dealership with the same problem. They replaced the engine wiring harness. January 25, 2008 the car is having the same "hard start" problem and is sitting in the yard. This issue happened on Saturday, July 28, 2007.
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The vehicle is a 2012 Toyota Yaris. I was driving approximately 20 mph making a left turn when the car abruptly powered down the inside lights, outside lights, heat, etc turned off. The vehicle continued to make loud noises as if I was trying to start the car, but I had taken the key out of the ignition. I then noticed the battery warning light was on and then I smelled smoke. I was stuck in the intersection with the car stuck in park I kept pressing the brake, to shift to neutral but the car wouldn't change gears or even turn on at this point. I continued to smoke and I smelled fire so I grabbed all of my things and exited the vehicle. It was raining and a good samaritan popped the hood and the hard cold rain put out the fire. I waited until a tow truck told the car to the dealer. I was told that the battery and starter caught on fire. This starter problem happened on Dec. 5, 2013.
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The vehicle was a 2010 Toyota Sequoia. The vehicle had a crash. The VIN of the problem Sequoia is 5TDDY5G15A_. Vehicle was started and put into reverse. The vehicle immediately began to accelerate. Brake was stepped on and depressed with both feet, but the vehicle continued to spin tires trying to accelerate to a maximum speed. Vehicle was then thrown into "drive" and the vehicle attempted to accelerate to a maximum speed forward spinning all four tires (when not in four wheel drive). The vehicle was then thrown into park and shut down. Later that night (while the car was parked and unoccupied) the vehicle attempted to start itself. The headlights and interior lights turned on and off while the vehicle attempted to spin the starter. The vehicle did not start as it also appeared to drain the battery. This continued for approximately 5-7 minutes. Additionally, the interior equipment such as the radio and speakers turned on and off while this electrical issued was going on. Eventually the car's battery failed and all of the abnormalities stopped. I have not started the vehicle since, and it will be brought to the dealer. . . . This problem occurred on 10/29/2013.
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The car involved is a 2011 Volkswagen Golf. The vehicle identification number (VIN) of the car was WVWDB7AJ0B_. According to my vw honolulu service provider my 2011 vw Golf's starter connection wires were melted and exposed. My Golf was purchased new July 2011 all maintenance was done at my vw dealership and the mileage is 40020. My service provider claims this an unique problem but a potential fatal one. This starter issue occurred Apr. 29, 2014.
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The vehicle was a 2010 Volkswagen Jetta. The vehicle's vehicle identification number (VIN) is 3VWTL7AJ8A_. The vehicle failed to start so it was jumpstarted with no problems then taken to get the battery tested. The battery, alternator, and starter all tested ok. Then warning lights indicating that the right headlamp and right rear taillamp illuminated then went out. Vehicle was driven to the dealer and they determined that a part of the fuse box had melted. Upon further inspection a 30amp fuse for the brake lights had melted into the fuse panel, but had not popped the fuse. It was Tuesday, Nov. 5, 2013 when this starter issue happened.
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The vehicle is a 2008 Volvo Xc90. 10/30/2013. . . Failed ignition lock switch at 31769 miles, in garage, no warning resulting in having to have vehicle towed to dealership, part investigated ordered and ultimately replaced at a cost of over 600$ as well as the cost of a rental vehicle for a week because part needed to be ordered and shipped to dealer. Additional rental cost at just over 200$. Followed by starter switch behind the ignition lock switch failing on 4/08/2014 diagnosed at dealership, part needing to be ordered and then installed 4/22/2014. A cost of 165$, mileage at this replacement was 34332. After which I contacted the Volvo customer care department and sent all required information to see if there had been any recalls on this vehicle/ part. I was informed it was not a recall item. They also said that on a vehicle that age an mileage I should expect some maintenance issues. I keep my vehicle maintained and checked on a regular basis. Having spoken to the tow truck driver and an vehicle mechanic that has 2 Volvos they both said they have personally had this same issue with the ignition lock switch, once when driving. Volvo offered to reimburse me up to 30% of cost of part/s up to 200$. I needed to send in documentation and copies of work completed. My concern is that in light of the ignition issues with gm that have been ongoing for 5 years. . . Is this the same thing just not identified as of yet and if the Volvo corporation does reimburse a portion of my output to fix the ignition create the environment that will lead them to not allow any rights to owners if this becomes a recall/ legal issue?. This starter issue occurred Wednesday, Oct. 30, 2013.
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The vehicle was a 2004 Volvo Xc90. Starting in 2011 and 3 other occasions vehicle would not start. Starter motor would not turn and system appeared to be dead. Battery was tested to be in good condition. Prior to these events electrical system behaved erratically with radio switching on and off, door locks not operating from remote key fob and windshield wipers erratically turning on and off. Lights and systems seemingly behaving erratically. Airbag warning lights came on. On first occasion system was reset and mechanic changed the starter motor. In hindsight I don't believe it was bad or caused of the problem. On second and third occasions after towing and repeated start attempts the engine started. Note that when attempting starts nothing happened when the key was turned (engine starter would turn or engage. No clicking sound associated with bad battery), on fourth occasion in July 2012 Volvo reported that central electronic module was bad and multiple fault codes were present. When informed that this was a seemingly a common problem on 2004/5 Xc90 with this model due to leaking grommet they denied this and stated that this was not the case for this vehicle. Module was changed at cost of $1,280. This issue happened on 10/07/2011.
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The vehicle is a 2013 Audi S4. The vehicle will not start. Not with the "key" or the button starter. Audi service claims its the battery but when the roadside service shows up its not the battery, so now a tow truck has to be called. This can happen at anytime and any place. Audi denies it is a computer issue but yet the vehicle completely shuts down and nothing is available - electronically or more importantly manually. Don't be out late at night or you might be a victim to more than a broken down vehicle. By the way this vehicle is less than one month old. This starter issue occurred Jun. 5, 2013.
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Vehicle identification number (VIN) of the vehicle is WAUBG84D1V_. The ignition switch in my 1997 Audi A8 failed internally and was disabled in it's ability to spring back from the start position. With the switch contacts in a position between start and run, none of the electrical auxiliary equipment will operate. This includes the headlights / taillights, turn signals , wipers and other systems. This condition can also allow the starter to remain engaged with the engine running. In this instance, this occurred the first time at night with my wife. I believe that this failure represents a serious safety issue. Research on the internet reviled that this failure has been well documented on other Audi models. The NHTSA has previously issued recalls on the 1997 a6 (00v317000) and 1996 a4 (96v017000) models due to failure of the ignition switch. I contacted Audi USA customer service (reps. Name- megan) and entered a complaint - case#30325223 the dealership was contacted by Audi USA the ignition switch was replaced by the Audi dealer at a cost of $535. 00 fully charged to me. This issue happened on Sunday, July 13, 2003.
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Tl-consumer owns a 2008 BMW 328i. The contact stated that while driving approximately 65 mph, the engine stalled with the warning indicators illuminating intermittently. The vehicle restarted after a few moments and resumed normally however, the air conditioner, headlights and the radio were inoperable. In addition, a burning odor emitted inside of the vehicle from the melted wires. The vehicle was taken to an authorized dealer for diagnosis where the battery and starter were replaced. Additionally, the battery cable and fuse box were replace on a separate occasion by the dealer. The manufacturer was notified of the problem. The approximate failure mileage was 100,000. Kmj. This starter problem happened on November 10, 2012.
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As I was driving home from work one evening, my 2008 BMW 328i coupe began acting strange. The interior overhead lights as well as most all of the dashboard lights (radio, hazard button, on-board computer etc. ) began to flicker accompanied by a ticking noise in sequence with the flickering. The vehicle was acting as though it was about to shut down; that's when I decided to pull over. As I pulled off of the road, the steering became more difficult and the flickering became more frequent. While coming to a stop (travelling at about 10mph), the vehicle completely shut off. I lost complete control of vital mechanisms such as steering, power, lighting (both interior and exterior). The brake pedal felt unusually firm/stiff (not spongy or soft as it should feel). At this point, the vehicle had completely shut down with the gear selector still in "drive". I attempted to re-start the vehicle but it failed to start. I had my vehicle towed back to my apartment and the following day, I took it to a reputable, independent BMW mechanic. His diagnosis was that something related to the vehicle's battery, power supply system/electrical system circuitry was faulty--which in turn, killed the starter. He replaced the battery with a new oem battery as well as replaced the starter with an new oem starter and the related wiring/circuitry. A few weeks later, I received a recall notice in the mail-- March 2013 recall no. 13v-044 : power supply system. Because the symptoms noted in the recall letter match those I experienced identically, I am seeking reimbursement for the cost of repair that correlates to this issue. However, BMW states it will only reimburse the cost of repair pertaining to the single part at fault/recalled. The cause of this recall is known, but they are failing to reimburse customers for the damaging effects that the faulty/recalled part may have had on other components. It was Saturday, Feb. 9, 2013 when this starter issue happened.
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The vehicle having this issue was a 2003 Buick Regal. My car has had issues with the electrical system. When I use my turning signals my car shuts off and I have to put in neutral and re start it. Also, the ignition issue is preventing my car from starting. I just had my starter replaced 4 days ago because I thought the issue was the starter even one it read okay I went ahead and replaced it since the issue was the car starting along with it shutting off when using the turning signals. I called in due to the recall to find out my car has a recall on another part that could cause it to catch fire. I had the appointment set up to relace that recall but since the car is not on the ignition switch recall I cant get that fixed to even get the car started. It starts most of the time but it seams the times I really need to be somewhere it wont start. Whyis it that my make and model are not apart of the recall if plenty of owners with this car are having the same issues. I have been so close to being in an accident due to this and need it fixed. I am a single mother andf feel I should not incure diagnosis test when I can tell you whats wrong and then I have to pay to fix something that has been recalled in many other gm automobiles but not mine. How can I get my car put on the recall list so it can get fixed???? this is a huge saftey issue and it needs to be addressed!. It was Thu., Dec. 12, 2013 when this starter issue happened.
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The car involved was a 2002 Buick Rendezvous. 5 minutes after being on the highway at 70 miles per hour the vehicle started dropping speed and message center started showing low battery, lights problem, service engine soon, brake fluid low, windshield wiper fluid low, low tire pressure, security service. Also, when I come to a stop the engine shuts off by itself as a low power, few minutes later, starts back up and can keep driving but hitting the gas pedal and releasing it after a few seconds at a time to recharge the battery so it would not shut off again. Also, after this happened the emergency lights began to come on and off by themselves. Took to a mechanic to have it serviced they said to replace the battery and alternator and if problems continued the starter. Few months later after replacing these parts, it started giving me problems with low fan as if the relays were bad but they are in good condition, low battery fuel and had to be changed again because the battery was not retaining charge. The vehicle still has all the messages in the message center, they never went away. Then within the last month I wanted to have the radio replaced, but I found out the speakers have power coming straight from the battery to the radio that causes it to overheat and makes static when the radio is on while driving. Also, the neutral safety switch for the ignition key got burned so now it is not working but still has allowed for the car to turn on and off and dry. A week ago, 04/28/14 the vehicle has been showing an error message in the message center, every light possible in the message center about the services that need to be done come on, which I assume now is the body control module that has gone bad. Most frequent message is security. Gas gage goes up and down and never gives an accurate reading of how much is in the vehicle. The failure date was March 16, 2013.
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The vehicle was a 2002 Cadillac Deville. Crash happened when the problem occurred. The vehicle identification number (VIN) of the car was 1G6KE54Y52_. At around 11:35 am, as I was turning left from prairie street into the far south entrance of krogers' supermarket. The Cadillac's engine just stopped running. I was unable to turn the steering wheel fast enough to complete the turn without jumping the curb. After completing the turn, I placed the car into neutral and hit the starter a few times. The engine cranked but failed to start the first few attempts (at least I think). I was about to start my process of exiting the car, when I noticed the tachometer showing 600 rpm. I was really hesitate to drive the vehicle any further, so we proceeded to do our grocery shopping. I removed the ignition key from the car's entry remote and my cluster of personal keys. After stowing the groceries and checking my computer files for the previous reported Cadillac's problem concerning onstar disabling it in August 2008. I made some operational checks of the ignition switch. I really have my doubts that the weight on the key would cause such a malfunction, unless the ignition control circuitry is grossly designed. It was Tuesday, April 15, 2014 when this starter issue occurred.
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The VIN of this vehicle is 1GYEK63N03_. On July 28th 2011, my 2003 Cadillac Escalade awd would not start. It had power to the seats, horn, lights, but no power to the locks, windows or radio. Therefore, I knew I didn't need a battery jump. I check the inside fuse panel and no blown fuses were found. I went to the fuse box underneath the hood and discover the 40amp ignition-b fuse was blown. I installed another 40amp fuse and it immediately blew out. I disconnected the battery, installed another fuse and the fuse blew out when I reconnected the battery. I removed the starter, disconnected the alternator, crank sensor, oil level sensor and both ignition coil packs. The fuse still blew out when I reconnected the battery. I reconnected all items previously mentioned and went underneath dash-board on the driver's side and check all the wiring harnessing and wires. I went back to the fuse box under the hood, flipped the fuse box up to see the underside. Located the wire that's connecting to the blown fuse, trace wire underneath the dashboard to the harness near the steering shaft. The connecting wiring on the other side of the harness (red wire with a white strip) was shorted on an eighth inch metal bracket bolted to the firewall with four nuts. This same metal bracket is up against and possibly cutting into the wires attach to the wire harness next to the steering shaft. I applied eletrical tape to the wire that shorted on the metal bracket to repair the problem. I installed another fuse and the truck started up. This issue happened on Thu., Jul. 28, 2011.
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The vehicle was a 2004 Jaguar Xj8. 2004, Jaguar, Xj8. Vehicle had to have the brakes and transmission replaced. Also, vehicle needed a new starter because the key will not come out of the ignition. After vehicle was taken to the dealership the catalytic converter made a popping noise. There were no other problems with the vehicle to the best of the consumers knowledge. Consumer felt that the mechanics working on vehicle were guessing as to the cause of the problem without solving the problem, consumer took vehicle back to the dealer 12 times since purchasing vehicle on June 25, 2005. This starter issue occurred Saturday, June 26, 2004.
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The car involved was a 1996 Jaguar Xj6. The vehicle's vehicle identification number (VIN) was SAJHX1746T_. Starter failed.
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