Car Will Not Start problem is a common vehicle problem that happens to most car brands and models. The following is a sample list of Car Will Not Start problems reported in most popular vehicles.
The car involved was a 2005 Chevrolet Impala. The vehicle identification number (VIN) is 2G1WF52E15_. Security system comes on and the vehicle will not start . . . . . . . . . . . It was Thursday, May 22, 2014 when this car will not start issue occurred.
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The vehicle is a 2004 Chevrolet Impala. The VIN of this vehicle was 2G1WF52E04_. When I attempt to start the vehicle , sometimes it will not start. No ignition. There is power but not ignition. After I wait 10 minutes it will start. It has something to do with the ignition switch. I have been informed that this is a security switch in the ignition switch, the shuts the car down, so the car cannot be started. And after 10 minutes exactly the vehicle will start. I have talked with other individuals that state that they too have this problem. This problem occurred on Apr. 2, 2013.
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Tl - the vehicle was a 2006 Chrysler 300c. The contact stated she would get gas, and her vehicle wouldn't start. The contact mentioned while driving 45 mph her vehicle decelerated and stalled. The vehicle was taken to a dealer. The diagnosis of the vehicle was not determined. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was 50,000, and the current mileage was 60,000. Bt. This issue happened on 04/16/13.
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Vehicle identification number (VIN) of the vehicle is 1C3LC56K17_. Consumer owns a 2007 Chrysler Sebring. The contact stated that while attempting to turn on the vehicle it failed to start and the check tpms warning lamp illuminated. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic where the technician was unable to diagnose the failure. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure and verified that the vehicle was not included in recall NHTSA campaign number: 08v152000 (electrical system). The vehicle was not repaired. The failure mileage was 74,000. The current mileage was 74,60. This car will not start problem happened on February 4, 2014.
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The vehicle having this issue was a 2011 Dodge Durango. The VIN of this Durango is 1D4RD2GG1B_. The vehicle started smoking while parked. Vehicle will not start. It was taken to a collision center, but they couldn't figure out what the problem is. The vehicle was later taken to the Dodge dealer and they still have not determined the problem or cause. Their guess is that there was a shortage, or problems with the tipm (totally integrated power modules) and they also have not been able to start the vehicle. This problem occurred on 05/05/14.
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The car involved was a 2010 Dodge Charger. The vehicle's vehicle identification number (VIN) was 2B3CA3CV7A_. Car wouldn't crank so I took it to the dealership and they said it was the win module. It was Jan. 20, 2014 when this car will not start issue occurred.
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Tl- the vehicle is a 2005 Ford F-350. The contact stated that while driving at highway speeds the vehicle would sudden shut off. The contact also indicated that on several occasions the vehicle would not start after suddenly shutting off. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic who was unable to determine the cause of the defect. The contact was informed that the vehicle had experienced the same defect listed in NHTSA campaign 05v270000. The manufacturer was not notified of the defect. The failure mileage was 137,000. Jft. The failure date was 02/05/14.
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The car involved was a 2012 Ford Focus. Driving down highway, car lost power, the check engine light and the traction control light came on. Would not accelerate, brakes would not function properly to stop. When I finally got the car stopped in a parking lot next to my place of business, the car would not start up again, and when it did, it would not go into any gear. Sat in the parking lot for 30 minutes trying to get the car to start up and go into gear. When it finally did go into gear, I got it to my place of business 2 blocks down and parked it. I am afraid to drive the car as it is a major safety issue. There have been recalls on the electric version of this car, but not the gasoline versions. This needs to be a recall on all of these models as there are several hundred complaints online about the same issue. Ford will not do anything about these issues unless the car is taken to one of their dealerships, which in past experience, they don't do anything at the dealership except overcharge for diagnosing the car, and for them to tell you nothing is wrong with it and that they know there are issues with the cars, but they do not have a fix for them and they can change the parts, however that will not solve the problem and it will happen again. I have been told this by the manager at a dealership and he has stated there is nothing he can do to change the situation. This is a major safety issue and someone needs to look into Ford for the same issues gm is having with their small cars. This car will not start issue occurred Thu., May. 22, 2014.
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The car involved is a 2011 GMC Acadia. The vehicle identification number (VIN) is 1GKKRRED6B_. For two weeks leading up to the 3/27/14 incident, every time we started the car the air would not come on and we would have to manually turn the air on. When we turned the car off, the air would stay on. Two weeks later, when I was operating the vehicle, the gauges on the instrument panel started going haywire displaying dozens of messages, and the all of the gauges would shoot up, then bottom out at 0, then shoot up again, etc. . I turned the car off, and when I came back later to start it, the car wouldn't start but the electrical stuff came on. After several attempts to get the car to start, I roll down my windows and then try it again, and the car started. I drove it straight to the dealership. The dealership replaced the body control module and some wires and said they fixed the problem. Less than 48 hours later, the same thing with the gauges and warning lights happened. We immediately sent an email to the service department since it was the weekend and they were closed. On Monday, the car died again, but the radio kept coming on/off. . . . I fiddled with the radio and the car started. I drove it straight to the dealership. They can't get the car to "mess up" again, and are waiting for it to do the same thing it did for me, so they can figure out how to fix it. I am concerned that the car is showing significant electrical problems that include safety equipment, yet GMC is ready to turn the car back on the road. Note: all recalls are up to date and the dealer has been in communication with GMC. It was 03/27/14 when this car will not start issue happened.
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The car involved was a 2004 GMC Yukon xl. The vehicle identification number (VIN) of this GMC Yukon xl is 1GKEC16Z24_. When I start the vehicle and go to the corner store turning the vehicle off, come out of store to restart vehicle it will not start it may take me 10 minutes to 4 hours to get the vehicle started again. Meaning I have been stranded at grocery stores, work, school functions. Attempting to get the vehicle started again I am constantly turning the switch. At this present time I have not drove my truck in almost 5 months. And I have been making truck payments on a vehicle I can't drive. . . . At this time not sure if it is ignition switch or pass lock I know both parts should be covered because it is a default from the manufacturer. This issue happened on Mon., Nov. 11, 2013.
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The vehicle identification number (VIN) of the car was 2HNYD28447_. The vehicle involved is a 2007 Acura Mdx. The contact stated that after numerous attempts the vehicle failed to start. The vehicle was towed to an authorized dealer where the battery was replaced. The failure recurred three times and the battery was replaced each time. The manufacturer was notified of the defect. The approximate failure mileage was 82,000. This car will not start problem happened on Nov. 8, 2012.
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The reporting person owns a 2005 Acura Tl. While driving 20 mph, the contact heard a loud popping and grinding noise. He exited the vehicle and noticed that the driver's side wheel was bent outwards from the hood. The vehicle was towed to the dealer and they stated that the lower ball joint failed and caused the wheel to come off. The vehicle was repaired. The manufacturer advised the contact to call the dealer to determine the cause of the failure. After further investigation, it was determined that the dealer was the cause of the failure and no compensation would be made. The failure and current mileages were 21,000. Updated 04/24/09. The consumer stated the upon delivery of the vehicle, it pulled strongly to the right while driving. The dealer dignaosed the vehicle without even looking at it, by saying it was the torque steer. On one occasion, the vehicle failed to start. The consumer still contined to complain about the vehicle pulling to the right. At times the vehicle would pop out of or grind into third gear. The lower ball joint had failed. It ripped out the drive shaft, bent the lower control arm, damaged the body and leaked transmission fluid all over the road. Updated 04/29/09. This car will not start issue occurred Sat., Jan. 10, 2009.
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The car involved is a 2006 Honda Civic Hybrid. Flashing ignition "immobilizer" light - system code "c-1": with low battery voltage, or a disconnected or "dead" battery, vehicle cannot be started, either by "jump starting" or replacing the 12v car battery. This is due to a defect, in all "j VIN" Civic Hybrids, on the micu board located in the under-dash fuse relay box. Defect results in the electronic key codes being lost with low or no 12v ignition system voltage. The only remedy is to have the car towed to an authorized Honda dealer to have all keys (car comes with 3 sets of keys) reprogrammed to the ignition immobilizer system. Only a Honda dealer can perform this operation. Because of this defect, vehicle operator and any passengers can be left stranded and in an unsafe position. The only remedy is to have the car towed to a dealer, if available, to have the immobilizer system reprogrammed. Honda will not allow any other service provider to perform this operation because of security and vehicle theft concerns. Depending on the circumstances of the immobilizer failure, this can be a life threatening safety issue for the vehicle operator, depending on where and when the failure occurs. In addition, routine maintenance or repairs requiring the vehicle battery to be disconnected, will result in an inoperable vehicle and require that the vehicle car keys be reprogrammed, something that would be totally unrelated to the planned maintenance or repair and the key reprogramming would have to be done at only a Honda dealer. The failure date was Friday, Jun. 22, 2012.
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The vehicle is a 1997 Honda Civic. Engine light came on now car will not start. No fault or cel codes. This issue happened on 05/13/2014.
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The car was a 2010 Hyundai Accent. I stopped at a red light and the engine stopped and would not restart. . The electrical system was still working and the flashers operated, but the engine would not start. I removed the key and reinstalled it and tried to start the auto with no results. I'm setting in a major intersection with a stalled auto. I'm in a very unsafe situation and could get killed by passing auto's. This is the second time this has happened to me with this auto. The only way you can restart the auto is to use jumper cables, than everything is back to normal. This car will not start problem happened on April 14, 2014.
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The vehicle involved was a 2011 Hyundai Sonata. The VIN of this Sonata is 5NPEC4AC9B_. On multiple occasions, my car would not start with the keyless key fob. The car stated they key was not detected although the key was in the car. I could not unlock the car, could not open the trunk or use the buttons on the key fob in any way. This has happened increasingly in the past month. This problem occurred on Monday, February 24, 2014.
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1. I was driving my 2009 Infiniti G37xs on I-95 near philadelphia. I was using cruise control with speed set at near 65mph. I was listening to pandora internet radio on my htc evo 4g android phone using wimax (4g wireless). The htc evo was being charged using a cellet pmotq9c car charger for cell phones. 2. Out of blue, all electrical and electronic system went black. All dashboard display(lcd), entertainmen/navigation system and ac and left/right turn signal and lighting all went out. Nothing electronic works including turn signal/emergency light. I was quite nervous, but didn't want to stop at middle of interstate freeway and drive straight home and prayed that power train stay working till I got home. Thank god, it did. As soon as I stopped the car by pressing the start/stop button after I drove into my garage, I waited a minute or two and tried to start my car by pressing the start/stop button while pressing the break pedal. The car would not start. I thought that my wireless card key had bad battery. So I spent 15min or so to find my 2nd wireless card key and strangely enough I was able to start the car. However, the "service engine soon" light on dashboard went on. I called the dealer service and wanted to bring the car. But dealer didn't have any loan car available till next Tuesday. So I waited and drove carefully with my car and brought it to dealer on the following Tuesday. Again strangely, just one day earlier, the "service engine" light disappeared. I trusted dealer had right equipment to diagnose. 3. Dealer took a few days looked at it and could only told me some limited diagnostic info about loss of comm and could not pin point the root cause of problem. I expressed my safety concerns on at night driving on I-95 situation when this happens again. The dealer assured me that all tests were done and no problem was found and the car was safe to drive. 4. I don't feel comfortable and feel that maybe NHTSA can better investigate this. The failure date was Wednesday, August 11, 2010.
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The car is a 2009 Infiniti G35. The vehicle identification number (VIN) of the car was JNKCV64E79_. Purchased car, used, 6/2011. Was told it was a owner buy back due to it not starting. Finance manager guaranteed problem had been fixed. In September 2011 car started hesitating to start-requiring me to let my foot off brake/clutch. Instrument panel would illuminate but car would not start. It could take up to 6 times of the brake/clutch easement for car to start. On 11/19/11 I brought car in to atlantic Infiniti to get another key made and to inform them radio would not hold a station (fade) and would not pick up stations. I returned 1/5/12 due to radio still not functioning. I also informed them of the brake/clutch issue. Dealership could not find anything wrong with radio but d a part in the clutch was replaced. Radio continued to function improperly. 1/27/12 car would not start. Headlights would not come on, unable to unlock trunk and intelligent key would not work. Car towed to orlando Infiniti. My car was at dealership till 2/6/12. Dealership addressed radio and replaced antenna amphifier & replaced clutch pedal position. Days later radio started malfunctioning again. 2/23/11 car would not start. As before, no lights, could not unlock car nor trunk. Aaa called & they could not start car. Car was jump started & diagnostic test performed. Nothing was found. Car driven home and it was towed to orlando Infiniti the next day. As of today, 3/6/12, car still at dealership and they can not find anything wrong. I believe the electrical system is malfunctioning, particularly the ground. I have asked Infiniti to check this but they have not. I no longer trust this car and Infiniti is not being proactive. They are waiting for my car to not start to research issue. Their statement to me "we go out everyday and start it". I have put in several calls to Infiniti USA and have not received a return call. The failure date was 11/19/11.
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The vehicle identification number (VIN) is 1J4GL48K67_. Tl- the reporting person owns a 2007 Jeep Liberty. The contact stated that the vehicle failed to start without warning. The contact mentioned it took numerous attempts for the vehicle to start and was concerned it would leave him stranded. The vehicle was taken to a dealer where it was diagnosed that the battery and the battery connector needed to be replaced. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The vehicle was repaired but did not rectify the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 36,000 and the current mileage was 50,000. Dr. It was Wednesday, May 19, 2010 when this car will not start issue occurred.
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The VIN of this Grand Cherokee is 1J4RR4GG3B_. Tl-the reporting person's vehicle is a 2011 Jeep Grand Cherokee. The contact state that the engine failed to start numerous times with the automatic system the failure became permanent. The vehicle was taken to the dealer several times for the failure. The dealer performed a diagnostic which located the failure at the vehicle computer integrated management system. The vehicle was not repaired. The failure mileage was 50,000 and the current mileage was 65,000. Li. This problem occurred on Friday, November 1, 2013.
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The car involved is a 2009 Kia Motor Borrego. In late March, our 2009 kia Borrego ex would not start, although the battery was strong and all accessories worked. We almost always park in our garage, and the car gets used a lot on a daily basis. My wife had driven it a couple hours earlier. We had it towed to the dealer where they pulled error code p1656 - authentication failure off the electronic module. We had to have all of our keys reprogrammed to the car. The dealership was not able to offer any explanation for the error. My concern is that we could have been stranded off in the boondocks or some other location. I am also concerned that the car could shut down while we are driving it, creating a serious problem, especially at high speeds. This car will not start problem happened on Thursday, March 20, 2014.
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The car involved was a 2009 Kia Motor Spectra. The reporting person's vehicle is a 2009 kia Spectra. The contact stated that the engine failed to start after several attempts. The battery was jump started in order for the engine to operate. The failure recurred intermittently which required the battery to be recharged each time. The vehicle was taken to an authorized dealer where the battery was replaced with a new one. The failure persisted and the vehicle had not been repaired. The approximate failure mileage was 45,000. The VIN was unavailable. It was November 1, 2013 when this car will not start issue happened.
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The vehicle having this issue was a 2003 Land Rover Range Rover. The VIN of this Range Rover is SALMB11483_. Consumer states: the car won't start, 1st time took back for engine light on, 2nd time took it back because vehicle wouldn't start, they said needed to leave on alarm at all times to get it started, then got back same day still wouldn't start, towed back to dealer, who said it was an electrical problem already put went through 4 batteries in vehicle. This car will not start issue occurred Friday, May. 20, 2005.
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The vehicle identification number (VIN) of the car was SALFS24N68_. I bought a 2008 Land Rover Lr2, about 6 months after the purchase I started to have problems turning the car on, the engine would turn but the vehicle wouldn't start. I took it to the dealership 4 times (each time I left the car from 2 to 4 days in the dealership) only to tell me (the fourth time) that the problem didn't have a fix, that Land Rover was working to fix the problem and I had to wait until they found one. So now every time I drive my car for about 30 minutes (to the market, the movies, gas station, almost everywhere) the car doesn't start, it takes about 2 to 5 minutes and about 5 tries to get it started, it does not sound like much, but after it happens 3 or 4 times a day it becomes really irritating not to mention that you have an unreliable $42k vehicle with only 15k miles. This problem occurred on Feb. 1, 2008.
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The vehicle involved is a 2011 Lexus Ls460. The contact attempted numerous times to start the keyless ignition and the vehicle failed to start. When the failure occurred there was an additional remote key fob located inside the vehicle; however once the second key fob was permanently removed from the vehicle, the keyless ignition began to operate. The contact detected whenever a second key was present within six feet of the vehicle, it would prevent the ignition operation. The manufacturer was notified of the problem. The contact expressed the potential safety risks. The failure mileage was 10,000. The VIN was unavailable. Updated 1-20-2012 updated 1-20-2012. This issue happened on Tuesday, December 6, 2011.
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I was driving on a busy road, and my 2000 Lexus Es300 rpm went down to 0 and shut off in the middke of busy traffic. I was almost hit from behind and could have caused a major pileup with injuries. I had to be pushed out of traffiic car wouldn't start. After, getting the car to the mechanic they determined that it was the idle air control valve, it is costly to replace and a problem with that make and model 2000 Lexus Es300. This is a serious electrical problem and I found out a faulty iac valve can cause your car to stall anywhere at anytime. I am thankful no one, as well as myself was injured, but I do not know about the next person this may happen to. The part cost about 200 dollars and the labor is approximately 300dollars. This happened on wed. 08/10/2011 and the part has to be ordered due to cost. As a result, no repairs have been made because of expense. There should really be a recall and this a safety hazard; especiially if the driver{s) behind me had been speeding or not paying attention. The failure date was 08/10/11.
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The VIN of the problem Navigator is 5LMFU27597_. The vehicle was a 2007 Lincoln Navigator. The contact stated that she attempted to start the vehicle but it failed to start. The vehicle was towed to the dealer for inspection and they stated that the battery needed to be replaced. The vehicle was repaired but the failure recurred. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The failure mileage was 42, 000. This car will not start problem happened on Sep. 27, 2008.
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The car involved is a 2006 Lincoln Zephyr. Driving down interstate and check engine light started flashing and car lost power. Called dealer and they said the light was an engine malfunction. Stated not to drive it. Got it towed to repair shop. When they diagnosed car they stated the pcm module went out and was sending uninterupted electricity to engine coils and suprised the car didn't start on fire. They also stated the pcm module was in its 13th design as they have had problems with this before and Lincoln had a technical service bulletin as it has been common. It was Sunday, December 23, 2012 when this car will not start issue happened.
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The vehicle involved was a 2001 Mazda Tribute. Electrical system works intermittently. Dealership is aware of problem. Consumer stated that the vehicle dies at 40-45 mph while driving. Also, vehicle would not start after sitting for several hours. Brakes and steering failed and it was hard to control the vehicle. This car will not start issue occurred Dec. 1, 2001.
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VIN of the vehicle was 4F2YU07191_. On July 3, the ignition, steering wheel, and wheels of our 2001 Mazda Tribute froze when we tried to start the car. The car was towed to senator imports, on florin road, in sacramento, California. On July 7, although the dealership said that the car was fixed, they couldn't get the car to work when we tried to pick it up. On the evening of July 12, we started the car. The light illuminating the gear selection was until, so we couldn't see what gear we were in. On Thursday evening, July 13, we started the car and the battery was totally dead. We re-charged the battery, but it was dead again in 2 hours. We took the car in to have the battery professionally charged. The battery was purchased in April of 2005. On Thursday, July 20, the car was running and just stopped dead. We again jumped it and took it to our private mechanic. On Friday, July 21, our mechanic did a diagnostic test on the car. It came up with a diagnostic test code error that said that the key program code was entered in error. Our mechanic rebooted the computer, to ensure that the problem was not related to a technical service bulletin about the Tribute just shutting off. When he tried to restart the car, the car would not start. (long story short, the dealer lost our spare key. We had to come back for it on July 11, and they reprogrammed both our keys to the new ignition. ) our mechanic suggested that we have the car towed to the dealership, as he considered it unsafe to drive. Today, July 22, the dealership said that all they could find wrong with the car was a dead battery. We are beginning to lose confidence that they actually know how to fix the vehicle. This issue happened on July 3, 2006.
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The car involved is a 2003 Mercedes Benz C240. I was always getting an error message telling me my rear lights were not working. I experienced an electrical fire in my trunk, which caused the air bags to deploy and the entire left side of my car caught fire. The car was totaled. Car would not start, trunk would not open. Car was totaled by dealer and insurance company. I know there is a recall notice for new c class cars, but because of what I experienced, I believe older models may also have the same problem. This car will not start problem happened on Thursday, Jan. 30, 2014.
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The VIN of the problem E320 is WDBUF65J85_. The vehicle involved is a 2005 Mercedes Benz E320. The contact stated that there was a daily occurrence of massive rfid leak which caused pain to the contact. The contact mentioned the only way to protect from the pain was to cover the body with aluminum shielding or metal. Additionally, the contact stated that the vehicle would fail to start intermittently. The vehicle was taken to a dealer where the failure was unable to be diagnosed. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The vehicle was not repaired. The approximate failure mileage was 24,000 and the current mileage was 153,000. It was Mar. 7, 2006 when this car will not start issue happened.
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The vehicle was a 2009 Mercury Mariner. VIN of the vehicle was 4M2CU29309_. After going through a car wash, I received a warning on the dash that there was a problem and that I should find a safe place to stop. When I returned home and stopped the car it would not restart. The same thing happened on February 16,2013, again after going through a car wash. The local dealer was able to get the vehicle running, but would not say that it was repaired. This car will not start issue occurred Wednesday, January 2, 2013.
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The vehicle involved is a 2005 Mercury Monterey. The VIN of the problem Monterey is 2MRDA22205_. Stall engine with no power for forward or reverse. Malfunction indicator comes on and the vehicle will not start for more than couple seconds. Multiple abs and drive codes based on the eec test. Repair shop inspects the vehicle and found water intrusion to the powertrain control module (pcm) and the connector pins where short out. This problem occurred on Aug. 9, 2012.
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The car involved was a 2006 Mitsubishi Raider. I had just purchased this vehicle cash on Friday, July 7, 2006. It had 27 miles when purchased. On Friday, July 14, 2006, I was driving on a 2 lane road on military base in san antonio when the vehicle shut off as I was making a right turn. The vehicle would not start. Everything else worked in the vehicle except start. I am currently stationed at the above post for 3 months while in training and purchased this vehicle at a local car dealer. Tried calling the sales consultant who sold us the vehicle at her cell, which she gave my wife where I purchased the vehicle, no reply, called the dealership, they gave me their customer service which gave me the wrong number to call. They gave me a sex call number. I called the dealership again and their receptionist gave me a phone number which turned out to be a security system. After all this, I decided to go back to the dealer, and told them they had sold me a lemon. . . Yes, I was very upset, I had just purchased a new vehicle and all of a sudden it was not working. I told one of the gentlemen at the dealer and he basically stated they could not do anything until Monday because the general manager was not there. How fortunate, but they were quick to make the sale and take my certified check. I mentioned to the gentlemen that the vehicle was on government property and could not be left on post without no registration or tags. He stated he would get someone to remove the vehiche and never did. I had to take the initiative and call the tow company to take the vehicle back to the dealership. I wasted half the day dealing with this issue which could have been corrected if the dealership would have been willing to work with me. I feel they made the sell, received their money and washed their hands of us. On top of this all, it has placed me in a difficult situation in my military training. They will have to deal with my wife because I will be away in training until July 21st. This car will not start problem happened on Friday, Jul. 14, 2006.
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The car involved was a 2001 Mitsubishi Montero Sport. The vehicle identification number (VIN) is JA4LS21H4Y_. Ignition system failure, and vehicle would not start at all. This happens intermittently. Contacted dealer, and dealer couldn't find anything wrong. This issue happened on May. 21, 2001.
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The VIN of this vehicle was 1N4AL21E58_. The vehicle involved is a 2009 Nissan Altima. The contact stated that the vehicle failed to start when activating the push-to-start button. The vehicle was not taken to the dealer. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The vehicle was not repaired. The failure mileage was 95,000 and the current mileage was 125,000. This car will not start problem happened on Sunday, January 30, 2011.
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The vehicle involved was a 2008 Nissan Altima. Had the oil changed at dealership. Upon driving back home the car would not start. I received the yellow key light on the dash and could not depress the brake pedal or start the car. I attempted to put in a new battery to the intelligent key and also jumpstart the vehicle. Still would not start. Nothing warns you of this issue and glad that I was not driving the vehicle when this happened or part failed. On the following date the vehicle was towed to the local dealership. On Monday the 7th the car was diagnosed with the electric steering lock assembly failure. Same day I contacted Nissan consumer affairs to find out there were no recalls nor would they offer any assistance or recall this part as they have on other similar models. This issue happened on Apr. 5, 2014.
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The VIN of the car is YS3FB49Y28_. The vehicle involved is a 2008 SAAB 9-3. The contact stated while parked in cold temperatures the vehicle would not start. The vehicle was taken to a dealer for diagnostic testing where the technician was unable to diagnose the failure. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The vehicle was not repaired. The approximate failure mileage was 95,000. This car will not start problem happened on Monday, November 26, 2012.
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The vehicle is a 2003 SAAB 9-5. Driving on the interstate - exited onto an interchange ramp at 50 mph - and the engine stalled without warning. Vehicle at rear nearly rear-ended mine - but missed by a hairs whisker. Another piece of luck was that I was at the crest of the ramp so managed to "coast" towards the shoulder. Waited for a bit - the car wouldn't restart. Had to spend perilous time on the left shoulder before getting my car towed. At the time of writing - the car is sitting in the dealers lot. Nothing special happened prior to this incident. Previously a similar incident had occurred just outside my residence - and the dealer checked it out and said it might just be "bad gas". SAAB's customer assistance program was useless. Based on the other incidents reported - refer to odi #s: 10162804, 10137685, 10097342 - there is something definitely wrong with this vehicle. Please take action before someone loses their life. This problem occurred on 03/10/2007.
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The car is a 2009 Saturn Vue. The vehicle identification number (VIN) is 3GSCL53P49_. Car would not start, when you put the key in the ignition will not start. After several attempts you can finally get it to connect. This is an ongoing issue I have had the car in the garage several times. I have been stranded three times in the last six months. It doesn't happen all the time and never happens when the garage has the vehicle. The last time was on Saturday 5/18/2014 the only way I could get the vehicle to start was to put it in neutral and turn the steering column, then when it would go back to the straight position the vehicle would stop again. After about five times trying it this way I left the wheels turned all the way to the left and put the vehicle into gear and made a u turn and keep going to home. I am afraid to try this car for fear it will cut out and someone will run into me. This problem occurred on Friday, September 13, 2013.
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The vehicle identification number (VIN) of this Saturn Vue is 3GSCL537X8_. 2008 Saturn Vue has electrical malfunction. 3 months ago I parked my car in the garage, turned car off but the key would not come out of the ignition. The car would not start either. Called a tow truck, took to local mechanic. He advised the ignition switch was faulty and installed new ignition. Today new electrical problem occurred. Airbag light came on and off multiple times then stayed on. When car was re started light was off but came back on after about 15 minutes. I believe this vehicle should have been included in recall. It appears to have exactly the same issues. This car will not start problem happened on Saturday, May 17, 2014.
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The reporting person owns a 1997 Subaru Legacy. The contact attempted to start the ignition and the engine failed to start. The battery was jump started; however the failure recurred while driving. The battery was recharged for a second time. The contact replaced the battery terminal due to severe rust and corrosion. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 75,000. Updated 02/28/12
the consumer stated battery corrosion destroyed the negative terminal. Updated 03/08/12. This car will not start problem happened on Tue., Aug. 9, 2011.
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The vehicle is a 1997 Subaru Legacy. The contact attempted to start the ignition and the engine failed to start. The battery was jump started; however the failure recurred while driving. The battery was recharged for a second time. The contact replaced the battery terminal due to severe rust and corrosion. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 75,000. Updated 02/28/12
the consumer stated battery corrosion destroyed the negative terminal. Updated 03/08/12. This problem occurred on Tuesday, August 9, 2011.
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The car was a 2007 Suzuki Xl7. The airbag system had to be replaced at 16,000 miles b/c of warping & the airbags beginning to release. Then, not 1 time but 3 times the visor assembly had to be replaced. At 26,900 miles I reported problems with the gear shift, a/c & radio assembly & this had to be replaced. I reported complaints of hearing a loud noise coming from my steering wheel column when driving & they stated that it was just rubber rubbing up against rubber. After 30,000 miles I took it back & complained & they said it was my steering column & pin that needed to be replaced & my warranty for that part was gone off. I had a problem with my car when I filled it up with gas the car would not crank properly & it ran ruff after putting gas in. The dealership replaced chain assembly, tensioners, timing chain, purge valve & etc. I had problems with the a/c & heat when I turned on the air with the control heat would blow out. I reported the problem but they said they could not duplicate it & that they found nothing. I had problems with the car battery & the mechanics said the battery was fine but I kept having problems with the battery being drained so I replaced the battery & the battery terminals. The electrical system for the passenger seat airbag sensor would not turn on when someone was sitting in the passenger seat the problem was not solved & still occurs. My car had to be towed into the dealership b/c the vehicle shut down due to sludge in my oil even after having my car serviced by a Suzuki dealership since buying the car new. I have reported complaints to Suzuki headquarters but they don't care. I think this vehicle is unsafe and a lemon & people should be compensated for investing in such a defective car. I have paid off the Suzuki & it is not worth trading b/c I can't get anything for it so please help consumers get their money back b/c Suzuki can have this SUV back. It was Fri., Feb. 8, 2008 when this car will not start issue happened.
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The VIN of the car is KL5VJ52L14_. The car had a crash. 2004 Suzuki Verona experiencing problems with start up. The vehicle did not start on 4 occasions. The consumers wife had an accident in the vehicle, and subsequently the consumer sold the vehicle after the repairs were made. This problem occurred on 04/01/05.
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The VIN of the problem Tundra is 5TFHW5F18E_. I purchased a 2014 Toyota Tundra in November 2013. In March 2014, with 2,248 miles on the truck, I went to leave work and the truck would not start. It was towed to the dealer and they informed me that rodents had chewed through two wiring harnesses (e. G. , #7 coil, temp sensor and the active brake booster), one of which was the main wire harness. I was lucky that the vehicle did not start. If the vehicle had been in operation (with mostly chewed through wiring) the wiring could have become loose and the vehicle may have lost steering, brakes, or other critically important safety functions may have ceased to work. The end result could have been a crash, fire, injury, or even death. Using a soy based product to coat the wires is a design flaw which must be corrected. Although the intent was to utilize a more ecologically friendly insulation material, the design engineers omitted to consider the attractiveness of the ecologically friendly insulation material to rodents (e. G. , squirrels, mice, and rabbits), the rodents are common in most residential areas in the united states, and the rodents could easily damage the wires. I have spoken with the dealer (stapp interstate Toyota scion of frederick colorado) service manager, Toyota customer experience center, Toyota motor sales, u. S. A. , inc. Customer relations administrator, and Toyota motor sales regional customerfirst manager. Each time Toyota is denying ownership of their defective wires and the safety-related need to correct them. This car will not start problem happened on 03/11/2014.
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The car involved is a 2007 Toyota Prius. The VIN of this vehicle is JTDKB20U67_. Without warning, after stopping and turning off the engine, my Prius engine wouldn't start and all of the warning lights went on when I tried to turn the engine over. . Thankfully, I was not in an intersection or on a road when this occurred. The Toyota dealer I had the car towed to, told me I had a poaa6 code and need to replace a transaxle assembly. (repair costs are over $4000. 00) after a little bit of research, it appears that a lot of 2007 Prius owners are experiencing the same product failure. I just found out that Toyota has a service bulletin about the problem but does not cover the failure after 60,000 miles, except in a few states, such as California, which made Toyota extend warranty to 150,000 miles. . No Toyota mechanic ever advised me about this problem. Had I known it's potential, I would have purchased an extended warranty. TSB number: sb-0306-08 rev 2nhtsa number: 10037588tsb date: March 23, 2011date added to file: may 26, 2011 failing component: electrical system:battery summary: Toyota: malfunction light is on with two internal trouble codes. It is a problem with the transaxle assembly. 2004-2008 Prius. It was Saturday, April 26, 2014 when this car will not start issue occurred.
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The vehicle involved is a 2013 Volkswagen Passat. The VIN of the problem Passat is 1VWCN7A39D_. Started hearing a whistling type of sound and noticing that the vehicle was not accelerating when I pushed on the pedal. As I tried to pull off the road the vehicle stalled and I could not get it started to get out of the road. Very scary. It finally started long enough to get to the side of the road and it stalled out again. There was smoke coming out of the exhaust pipe. The vehicle would not start again. The vehicle was towed to the dealership where I purchased it and have it serviced. The service department called to tell me it was the turbo and that the vehicle needed a new engine. I will be going to the dealership on Monday to pick up the vehicle but will have a list of questions on what exactly has been replaced and what type of warranty this new engine has. This issue happened on Fri., Apr. 25, 2014.
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The vehicle having this issue was a 2009 Volkswagen Routan. The vehicle's vehicle identification number (VIN) was 2V8HW34159_. The vehicle has a new battery which is correctly installed and free of corrosion. When the key fob is placed into the ignition and moved forward, the vehicle will not start. The dash lights come on, and it should start, but it does not. If you keep trying, or walk away and come back after a few minutes and try again, it does sometimes start. This intermittent problem seams to have no rhyme or reason and I am concerned the vehicle might stop while my wife or I drive it. This generally happens 4 to 5 times a month. Any help would be appreciated. This issue happened on 01/09/2014.
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The car involved is a 2004 Volvo Xc90. On two separate occasions, our vehicle would not restart after stopping for gas. This occurred after it was serviced and battery replaced a week prior. Aaa was unable to jump start it as well, and vehicle had to be towed back to dealership for repairs. According to the two separate dealerships, the central electronics module is the culprit, and needed replacing. Across multiple online forums, Volvo owners have complained about similar problems with the cem, often placing drivers and occupants in danger as they experienced complete electrical outage at highway speeds. We were fortunately that our vehicle just did not restart, instead of shutting down in traffic at 65 mph. This is a significant safety issue, and Volvo should be responsible for replacing the faulty units. This car will not start issue occurred Friday, Apr. 18, 2014.
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The vehicle was a 2007 Volvo V50. Issue: car would not start and "steering locked, please try again" error message was displayed. The wheel is not locked, I can turn it, but the engine will not start and it keeps on giving me the same message. I had to have my car towed to the dealer who explained this is a part failure and is charging me $434. 00 to repair it. I see this being a potential safety issue since the steering may lock on me at some point when the car is running. This should be a recall issue and Volvo held accountable for repairing these vehicles at their cost. This car will not start problem happened on Monday, June 17, 2013.
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The vehicle is a 2006 Audi A6. The VIN of this A6 is WAUEG74F76_. Audi would not start, car does not recognize keys, car stuck in park, all wheels locked, steering wheel locked, mmi radio works, light works, everything else on the car works. It was Nov. 13, 2013 when this car will not start issue occurred.
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The car involved was a 2007 Audi A6. The vehicle's vehicle identification number (VIN) is WAUEL94FX5_. Vehicle becomes immobile and locked up when "access/start control unit" fails in steering column. Engine will not start, ignition cannot be turned on, and in some cases the key cannot be removed from the ignition switch. Steering wheel and transmission shift lever locks in current position, making towing almost impossible without specialized equipment. Audi is well aware of this increasingly common problem and issued a TSB on 11/25/2008, #2012483/5 to address the problem by replacing the "immobilizer control unit" with an revised and improved unit. Repair costs exceed $1500 when car is no longer covered by warranty. For something so important to the safety and use of the vehicle, this failure is unacceptable on every level. A recall should be issued for all models that do not have the improved control unit. It was 02/24/12 when this car will not start issue happened.
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The vehicle identification number (VIN) is WBAVB33546_. I have a 2006 BMW 330i which had a steering column malfunction and failure. It is safety problem and should be covered by a BMW customer satisfaction campaign. On January 7, 2014 the temp. Was minus 15 degrees f and the warning indicator in the instrument panel showed an icon of a steering wheel and a lock and the vehicle failed to start. The owners manual says "lights up in yellow: electric steering wheel is jammed. Move the steering wheel before starting the engine. " I moved the steering, but the vehicle would not start. If this had happened while I was away from home in these minus 15 degrees f cold temp. I could have frozen before I could have received assistance. The service manager at anderson BMW in illinois told me that the 2006 BMW 330i has had problems with the steering column malfunctioning. I had to have the car towed to the dealership which took almost 2 full days due to the cold weather in chicago and all the cars that wouldn't start from the cold. I contacted BMW customer service, explained my problem and was told they couldn't do anything to cover this unusual quality problem under warranty. I understand it is out of warranty, but I wouldn't expect a major steering, start and interlock system failure when it is only 10,600 miles over the warranty period. As an automotive engineer responsible for quality I deal with warranty issues quite often as well as recalls with NHTSA. While many times a quality issue with a product is safety related it does not require a NHTSA recall. However, it can be covered under a manufacturers customer satisfaction campaign. From the NHTSA website, there are many cases reported that there is a problem with the 2006 BMW 330i model. I am reporting this incident to NHTSA in hopes that BMW will do something for other owners as the repair bill was $938. 00 and should have been covered by BMW, warranty or not. This issue happened on Tuesday, January 7, 2014.
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The car is a 2007 BMW 328i. Several times throughout the day after the car was parked, it was difficult to start and he battery indicator came on a few times. The final time after driving from connecticut to queens NY, I was in a friends driveway after dropping them off from the airport, the car would not start even thought the lights were working. Eventually all power was lost. I had to have car pushed out if the driving and on to the street. Also to note earlier I was charging my cell phone, but it stopped charging. I went and purchase a new charged (usb adaptor) which did not work either, but worked when I hooked it up to the computer. The tow truck person was not able to get the car started with a jump, and indicated that it appeared to be an electrical issues. I reviewed the internet to see what the problem could be since my car has such low milage, and noticed there was a recall on my vehicle year and model from February 2013. I don't know if this is the same, but it sounds similar. This car will not start problem happened on Dec. 21, 2013.
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The vehicle involved was a 2004 Buick Regal. I was driving the car at 40mph when all of a sudden it cut off and all the gauge lights came on. I was nearly side swiped by another car. I restarted the car but it would not start. I tried to start it up again. It started but would not shift out of park. The gauge lights on the dash board were still on. I restarted the car again and was able to drive it home; the signal lights and head lights did not work. When I was finally able to start it up and take it to a mechanic, I was told the problem was the ignition switch. I paid a total of $540 for them to repair this problem. GMC knew about the problem and did not report a recall to consumers nor offer to fix it. All I'm asking is for a refund of the money I paid; $540. It was Monday, May. 20, 2013 when this car will not start issue happened.
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The vehicle identification number (VIN) is 2G4WF5219W_. The reporting person's vehicle is a 1998 Buick Regal. The contact stated that the vehicle failed to start. The vehicle was towed to the dealer for inspection where they stated that the turning signal had shortened. As a result, the ignition switch and the wiring harness needed to be replaced. The vehicle was repaired but the failure recurred. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The failure mileage was 40,000. It was Dec. 27, 2008 when this car will not start issue occurred.
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The VIN of the problem Srx is 1GYEE63775_. Tl - the owner has a 2005 Cadillac Srx. The contact stated his key was stuck in his ignition and the car would not start. The vehicle was not taken to dealer or manufacturer. There was no diagnosis for the vehicle. The manufacturer was made aware. The manufacturer informed the contact that there was nothing they can do. The failure mileage was 63,000, the current mileage was 65,000. Bt. This problem occurred on May 17, 2014.
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The vehicle identification number (VIN) of this Cadillac Dts is 1G6KD57Y08_. The Cadillac Dts 2008 would not start. . Had Dts towed to foreman-blair gm dealership. . 896382 scan for codes none found no fuel pressure no volttage at circuit to fuel pump no voltage burn connnector at fuse box repace box c muti point inspection the relay 19116057 got hot and burn connector at fuse box and melted the fuse block 19116816 which is located under thr back seat,, that might set the car of fire. . This not the first time this has happen on Dts car there are more on the internet that had the same problum,,, I need to get my money back $735. 18 , because this was not my fought. It was 03/19/2014 when this car will not start issue occurred.
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The vehicle is a 1998 Jaguar Xk8. Vehicle identification number (VIN): SAJGX2240W_. The vehicle, without any warning and instantaneously at speed limit in a freeway travel lane, ceased to operate. This happened on numerous occasions since first acquired with less than 4,000 miles use. Each time this caused the driver (my wife) to conduct an emergency procedure - hit the emergency flashers, shift to neutral, and restart the car while it was decelerating. The last time was on July 14, 2008. The power steering, power brakes, safety handling systems, and engine were inoperable. The vehicle was taken to an authorized Jaguar dealership where the problem was acknowledged, diagnosed, and ostensibly repaired. The repair was ineffective and within a few days of the first repair the vehicle failed in the same way again. The vehicle was taken a second time to the authorized Jaguar dealer where another repair was conducted. Following this repair the incident did not reoccur until July 14, 2008. That day, while at freeway speeds in a travel lane, the vehicle ceased operation with no warning once again. This time however it would not restart as stated above and the vehicle coasted to a small gore-point between two concrete toll booths while traffic avoided the vehicle to each side. The vehicle would not start from neutral, but had to be placed in park in order to restart. For the third time, the vehicle was taken to an authorized Jaguar dealership where the service technical attempted the Jaguar "service action". The procedure failed, the vehicle was totally disabled, and the car could not be started for two weeks. A Jaguar factory field employee and a mechanic from out of the area worked on it and now report that "everything is fine". They have reinstalled the defective electronic control unit and report that they are confident that this time there will be no more trouble of this nature. I do not share their confidence. I ask that NHTSA investigate this problem and assess the safety risk of the Jaguar cars "service action" procedure. This problem occurred on Monday, July 14, 2008.
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I experienced a no warning complete shutdown of my 2010 Jaguar Xf at 5:00pm on October 6, 2010. Gas gauge read 30+ miles, odometer read 7000+ miles. I had just exited from a strip mall and driving on an incline at 25-30mph, without any warning the engine shut off abruptly, the gear control knob receded into the console and the car automatically shifted into park. I lost all control over the vehicle. The dashboard lost its illumination. I attempted to restart the car by pressing the start button but the car would not start. I couldn't roll down the windows. The police and my friend arrived at the scene and assisted me by pouring in at least a gallon of gas but the car was still frozen in place. The police called for tow truck assistance since my car was blocking the "after work" traffic flow. After a day and half at the service center, I was told that my car was ready for pick up on October 8th. I was told that nothing was wrong with the car (diagnosticians checked by machine) and advised me not to drive on low fuel. Nothing was fixed. On October 9th concern and terror regarding this experience was expressed to the manager. The manager was given a copy of the 2 recalls relating to shutdowns of 2010 Jaguar Xf autos and requested that they probe further and to notify Jaguar corporate and Jaguar manufacturer about the complete shutdown. Again, on October 12th, I was told that my car was ready for pickup. . . Can't find anything wrong. Nothing fixed. I reiterated that they need to continue to inspect, investigate and discover what caused the shutdown because my life and the public's safety can be in dangerous jeopardy if this happens again on the roadway or freeway. As of October 13th or October 14th, I believe the Jaguar corporate technicians became involved and is now guiding the local service center with the investigation and inspection of my vehicle. This no warning complete shutdown function of the Jaguar automobile needs to be addressed. The failure date was 10/06/2010.
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